Afternoon all!

OK, I'm about to embark on a D-Log shed build that I plan to make somewhere between 8x10 to 10x12 and make 'non permanent'.  By this I mean the shed will be small enough to not meet permitting requirements and will not be on a foundation.

My plan is to set two logs flattened on two sides leaving at least an 8 inch flat face, on pavers/rocks/cinder blocks (not sure what I will do yet) and then build 5 or 5 1/2" D-Log walls on top of those logs which will leave a 2 1/2" 'ledger' (or at least a ledge) on the remaining flat surface (since the logs will have an 8 inch flat face and the D-Logs will be no more than 5 to 5 1/2 inches as I plan to use the worst of the logs I have already milled and just flatten them out) which would allow me to build my floor inside the 1st course of wall logs, sitting on the 'skid' logs.

My thought is that I won't move the 'cabin/shed' anyway so using the skid logs as a ledger to mount fix the floor on top of (leaving me a span of 10' so I'll use 8" floor joists most likely).

As I build up the course of logs I'll mark the door and windows (windows will not be put in the structure until/unless I convert to a bedroom cabin) and not screw the logs together in those location.

I plan to use 9" Oly log screws and place them at 24" intervals as well as at the ends.

I'll be using the Butt and Pass method of building and will use purlins to make the roof.  I can mill 1.5" 6" ceiling planks and probably make them into T&G for sheathing the ceiling then place 30lbs felt on top of those and I'll likely then affix two layers of R10 foam on them, then a layer of sheathing, more felt and then roofing (metal) to finish off an R20 roof with open purlins running the length inside with exposed 6" plank ceiling.

For the porch I'll extend the purlins 4 feet to the from and 2 or 3 feet to the rear (so if 12 foot in length I'll need 18-20 foot purlins) and use D-Log cut offs for the gables.

My main contemplation at this point is the non-foundation.  I think using pavers is probably the best option and setting them every 4 feet or even 6 feet should work.  Once level the area has good drainage so I'm not overly concerned about movement and with a 24" eve/overhang on the sides I should protect the logs well.

I figured I'd burn the logs before placing as the 'skid' foundation log and then use base plate seal foam between log courses to help seal up gaps and of course, finish it with chinking.

Any thoughts?  Concerns?  Suggestions?
Thanks!
Erik

Version 3.6.1 - 05.13.2024
- Added Symbol 2 Layer specfically for 2D door swing symbols (Layer tab of the global settings).

Quote from: Motovista on Yesterday at 05:51:26 PMThat's a link to a site where they try to get you to pay $300 for the plans. I find it hard to believe any legitimate company would do that. Do you have any information about getting the plans that doesn't involve paying someone $300 for them?
I really can't believe these are so hard to find.

I would also do my best to try to find them for free, but I am confused that you find it hard to believe that a company would try to make money?  Its only $300, unfortunately not much in todays world....

Anyway, my only thought on how to get them for free beyond the internet is maybe a library?  Good luck..

I'm looking at a 2-acre lot that I'd like to build on. I do not need a big home on it now and can afford more house only in a few years. How can I design and construct a small home now and later add an extension that looks built-in versus bolted-on and doesn't reinvent the wheel or need rework costs?

For more context: the land cannot be subdivided. A large home would be comparable to the neighbors' and make the most of the lot. Its private location is unique and rare for the prestigious area. I'd love to live there even if it's in a small basic home for now that I can expand over time.

Usually with additions, homeowners have to work around the limitations of their existing building. Here, I'll have the luxury to build the original home in a way that is best to extend in the future.
All I need now are 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, a living area with a kitchenette and a driveway. In the future, I'd like to add more space - i.e. additional bedrooms and baths, large kitchen, decks, solar panels, water filtration system, home automation, a garage, gym, mudroom, pool, landscaping, master suite with sauna and steam shower.

Do I build a small 2-story home now and add to the sides and back of it later? Or is it better to build a single floor now and extend it up later?

I assume I'd have to design the entire large home now, get a permit just for the small home, and get another permit for the extensions later, when ready to add them.

Any other ideas and thoughts on how to approach it - for example, what must be done now and would be difficult to add later, how should I "phase" this, if this is even a good idea?

Appreciate any input you have, including examples of such scalable homes and what has or has not worked from what you've seen!

Quote from: rothbard on May 08, 2024, 02:20:30 PMhttps://www.countryplans.com/bolt-house.html

That's a link to a site where they try to get you to pay $300 for the plans. I find it hard to believe any legitimate company would do that. Do you have any information about getting the plans that doesn't involve paying someone $300 for them?
I really can't believe these are so hard to find.

Version 3.4.5 - 05.10.2024
- Enabled ceiling insulation for shed rafter roofs: Batt, Blown-in.
- Enabled ceiling insulation for gable rafter roofs: Batt, Blown-in.
- Enabled ceiling insulation for hip rafter roofs: Batt, Blown-in.
- Enabled the "Edit Truss Assembly" function for all flat trusses (imperial and metric units).

I've recently encountered a situation similar to what Pillike described in their post about underpinning installation for foundation stabilization. In my case, I'm considering adding a second story to my home and am concerned about the potential for frost heave affecting the foundation.

From what I understand, the frost line in my area is at 36 inches, and common practice suggests going down to 42-48 inches with footings to prevent heaving. I'm curious if the underpins should also extend below the 42-inch mark to ensure stability, especially with the additional load of a second story. For those who have experience with underpinning in cold climates, how deep did you go to safeguard against frost heave?

I recall finding one that I think MD shared once...might have to search the forum for Span tables