Concrete block foundation questions

[Jens]

My house has a brick foundation, roughly 3 feet tall.  About 4 feet inside of that foundation there is a concrete block foundation that takes it down to basement level.  I think someone dug it out along the way.  I am thinking of supporting the house with a wall (braced and properly built of course), excavating, and putting in a new block foundation underneath the exterior walls.  I have no hesitation with any of that, the footer, or even laying up the blocks, but I have a few questions about the wall.

1.Does it need rebar, and where?

2.should there be rebar stubbed up out of the footing?

3.Do the cells need to be filled with cement?

4.What is the best way to anchor the sills (they will be new pt) to the block wall once built?

I would like to keep from jacking the house up too much, but I realize this may not be possible.  There are no rim joists, so I can use anchors drilled into the wall from above if I remove some siding. 

In the end, this may be one of those jobs I save up for and hire a contractor experienced in these matters to undertake, while my family and I go on a trip or something.  I have never been dissuaded by any job however, and don't imagine this to be the first time.

Any help any of you can give would be appreciated.  I may end up just going with a poured foundation, although I know it will cost more, I can do all of that myself.  I even considered buying a mixer, excavating one wall at a time, and doing it a section at a time, but hauling a few thousand backs of ingredients just doesn't sound like fun!!!

[Jens]

BTW, house dimensions are roughly 24x35, 8 ft foundation walls.  5 outside corners, one inside corner.

[PEG688]

Cocrete, huh  CoNcrete Jens no ' and I think you meant bags not "backs" of concrete stuff called mortar.

But to your main question I'd pour it using the old 1x6 / 8 form set-up. No jacking , except to get it all straight , if not level.

Build the footing , use PT top cleat ( so it can be poured in) ,  then set-up the forms right on them . Build it up installing  re-bar as you go  , bore and hang some foundation J bolts as you mentioned thru access holes in the walls , choice your poison as to which side is easier to make back in.

Once your ready to pour , bore some 4" hole saw holes in the last board  , (save the hole saw plug you'll use it with a gusset to seal the hole as you pour).    Rent a line pump and fill-er up to the top , also a stinger/ vibrator to move the mud.


Cost of mud should be close to cost on block and related materials to do a block wall.

You could even do it in sections , other than the rental of the concrete pump. That may be a deal breaker to cut it up into to many pours. 
     

[Jens]

Thanks for the English lessons there Paul.  Git to tpynig too qkcuily and all hlel bkearks losoe!  Block prices would be a lot cheaper (almost 1/2), if they don't need to be filled with cement.  If they do, then it is just a headache.  I am really not sure, though I can't imagine how they could not be filled.  I think pouring is probably better idea too, but it would be nice to be able to work at a slower pace (although great also to just get it over with, cry once and not over several months).

Thanks for the tips too.  The colonial that I posted the photos of the sun room in built-ins thread, was moved 1/4 mile, rotated 90 deg, new foundation poured underneath it, and then set down.  All 8000 square feet of it!  They had a bit bigger budget though!