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Version 3.6.2 - 05.14.2024
- Enabled wall sheathing 2 statistics for the Medeek Estimating Module.
- Fixed a bug with wall presets and the wall sheathing 2 option.

We also used to have a system for storing things like canned goods that should not be frozen. I cannot locate the particular portion of my build thread where this was detailed. So here goes a description.

I had a polyethylene tube 7 feet long  x 24" diameter. An old playground slide tunnel tube. I dug a hole to drop that into. Then I built a box unit over the upper end. I cot an XPS foam plug for the upper end. That fit inside the upper end of the 24" poly tube and had a bicycle tire tube fitted as an o-ring to air seal. The box unit was well insulated around the tube upper end and had a heavily insulated hinged lid.

I had a dozen or so 4" diameter thin wall pvc pipes, dropped in vertically. This was large enough to load with canned goods from one end. The bottom ends had a pin that kept cans from falling out. The top ends had similar pins used as a handle to raise and lower the tubes.. With the insulated lid the inside of the poly storage tube never dropped below about 50 F. The heat from that depth in the soil kept it frost free.

The humidity in the hole was high enough to cause labels to get wet and come loose. Some cans did begin to rust lightly but that was never a serious issue through one winter.

Used to have... The box top and poly tube burnt out during the wildfire in 2022.

 

Spices, anything dry (oats, flours, seeds.....) have not suffered at all over the many winters our cabin has gone through winters unheated. Olive oil turns solid in the cold but turns liquid again when warmed with no discernable harm.

OlJarHead - just wanted to thank you for your videos - they are well done and very informative.  

I'm new to the terminology, so please bear with me.

Including the porch on two sides of the house, my total dimensions are 24'x24'. The house itself is 16x20. I am planning on a pier and beam foundation. The county I am in is completely unrestricted (no building codes/zones/permits/building department/etc). There's not a single red light in the whole county and much of the population is Plain (Amish/Mennonite), just to give context.

Frost line is 10-12" and state code says we should have a minimum 12" deep footing for the piers. I was going to go 24" down, 6" compact gravel of some kind, and then 18" Sonotube cement footing. I was planning on doing double 2x8 beams (aka 4x8 beams) and doing 2x8 joists every 16" oc.

I am trying to figure out how many piers I need. I was thinking about doing 4 rows of 4 (16 total distributed evenly), 4 rows of 5, or 5 rows of 5.


Am I wildly off here or is this okay? Thank you! 

I am framing the 1 story right now which is based on the same footprint.

It was about 4500 to do my crawlspace foundation (6" CMU 4 high, fully grouted, plus footing, excavated to 12").  Including renting a backhoe.

The framing I'm looking at about $15k all in, plus another 12-15k or so for roofing/sheathing/windows.  I think maybe you have similar subfloor unless you do a slab.  I spent about $4k on my subfloor including select structural floor joists for the called out 2x12x20'.

I anticipate finishing the shell for under 40k including the plumbing from the house to the septic system.  Utilities cost me another ~35k including a septic system, power extension 1/5 mile, DIY power run 300 ft from property line, temp power for construction, running water and temp spigot a few hundred feet to the property line.

Have a general question about building an off grid 3 season cabin that will remain uninhabited (without power) over winter.  It would be vacant from December through March and the temps can get down to 15 below... 

What can you leave in it that will survive the temp drops and temp fluctuations ?  Will food items like spices and powdered drinks be ok -- or maybe people have figured out unique ways of storing things over the winter so they don't have to bring it back each spring.

Any info. or tips appreciated.

Afternoon all!

OK, I'm about to embark on a D-Log shed build that I plan to make somewhere between 8x10 to 10x12 and make 'non permanent'.  By this I mean the shed will be small enough to not meet permitting requirements and will not be on a foundation.

My plan is to set two logs flattened on two sides leaving at least an 8 inch flat face, on pavers/rocks/cinder blocks (not sure what I will do yet) and then build 5 or 5 1/2" D-Log walls on top of those logs which will leave a 2 1/2" 'ledger' (or at least a ledge) on the remaining flat surface (since the logs will have an 8 inch flat face and the D-Logs will be no more than 5 to 5 1/2 inches as I plan to use the worst of the logs I have already milled and just flatten them out) which would allow me to build my floor inside the 1st course of wall logs, sitting on the 'skid' logs.

My thought is that I won't move the 'cabin/shed' anyway so using the skid logs as a ledger to mount fix the floor on top of (leaving me a span of 10' so I'll use 8" floor joists most likely).

As I build up the course of logs I'll mark the door and windows (windows will not be put in the structure until/unless I convert to a bedroom cabin) and not screw the logs together in those location.

I plan to use 9" Oly log screws and place them at 24" intervals as well as at the ends.

I'll be using the Butt and Pass method of building and will use purlins to make the roof.  I can mill 1.5" 6" ceiling planks and probably make them into T&G for sheathing the ceiling then place 30lbs felt on top of those and I'll likely then affix two layers of R10 foam on them, then a layer of sheathing, more felt and then roofing (metal) to finish off an R20 roof with open purlins running the length inside with exposed 6" plank ceiling.

For the porch I'll extend the purlins 4 feet to the from and 2 or 3 feet to the rear (so if 12 foot in length I'll need 18-20 foot purlins) and use D-Log cut offs for the gables.

My main contemplation at this point is the non-foundation.  I think using pavers is probably the best option and setting them every 4 feet or even 6 feet should work.  Once level the area has good drainage so I'm not overly concerned about movement and with a 24" eve/overhang on the sides I should protect the logs well.

I figured I'd burn the logs before placing as the 'skid' foundation log and then use base plate seal foam between log courses to help seal up gaps and of course, finish it with chinking.

Any thoughts?  Concerns?  Suggestions?
Thanks!
Erik

Version 3.6.1 - 05.13.2024
- Added Symbol 2 Layer specfically for 2D door swing symbols (Layer tab of the global settings).