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Referral Links / Re: Wall Plugin for SketchUp
« Last post by Medeek on Yesterday at 02:46:32 PM »
Version 2.4.2 - 09.25.2021
- Enabled a boolean union option for window and door trim.
- Added a "Union all Trim" parameter to the Door Trim Options within the global settings.
- Added a "Union all Trim" parameter to the Window Trim Options within the global settings.







For presentation purposes (ie. elevation views) some designers and architects would prefer to show the window and door trim without each board delineated.
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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: KS Flint Hills 20x30 1.5 story
« Last post by NathanS on September 23, 2021, 12:42:09 PM »
I think these docs will answer your questions.

It's been a few years so I can't remember all of the ratio stuff off hand. It looks like they recommend 60% at the eave and 40% at the gable, and they give an example calculation in the pdf. They also recommend a 2" air gap all the way, which they would typically build with rigid insulation, I think.

Personally, I used a 2" continuous soffit vent.. installed insect screen, but on our mudroom area I actually had to recently beef it up with hardware cloth because of chipmunks.. ugh. Anyway, I remember doing the calculation and coming to the conclusion to make the gable vents as big as possible... 2.5 or 3 sq feet on each end so ~6 sq ft up top, and closer to 11 sq ft at the eave. We have never had any ice damming yet, just about the only house in the county, I'd reckon.  :D

https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-102-understanding-attic-ventilation
https://www.buildingscience.com/sites/default/files/migrate/pdf/PA_Crash_Course_Roof_Venting_FHB.pdf

Documents are written with the builder in mind.
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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: KS Flint Hills 20x30 1.5 story
« Last post by KJones on September 22, 2021, 08:05:11 AM »
Nathan and Don P, thanks for the input.

So what ratio do you use for venting. I saw someone mention for the 1-1/2 story (20x30) that 1:150 is fine. So 600 sqft, needs 4 sqft of venting, splitting that you need 2 sqft for intake and 2 for vent. Just checking that I'm doing this correctly.

I should mention I have scissor trusses in my build, 12:12 roof to a 8:12 ceiling, so I have 4ft from ceiling peak to roof peak. Obviously that gets tighter the closer to the walls you get, I think its about 10" at the wall.

Since I have kind of got pushed into gable vents, my thought was to put in a 1+ sqft vent in each end. Then soffit vent the eaves on both sides. Is that to much soffit venting? Can there be to much intake? The gable vents are on the north and south walls of the cabin, not sure if that matters but prevailing winds are north and south. My crawl space vents move some serious air with those winds.

Let me know your thoughts...
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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: KS Flint Hills 20x30 1.5 story
« Last post by NathanS on September 20, 2021, 07:48:20 AM »
Venting is what prevents ice dams. It's more important the more cold and snowy your climate is.

I actually came to a different conclusion than Don for where I live (lots of snow, very cold). Snow piles so deeply here that the ridge wont properly vent when it's most needed.

The code wants you to balance the area of the soffit vent with the area of the ridge vent. Don's warning about gable vents is that if they aren't big enough not enough air will be drawn through the soffits. Joe Lstiburek, the best building scientist of this generation, suggests that you want less gable/ridge venting than soffit because you do not want to depressurize the attic, which will suck hot moisture laden air into the eaves potentially causing condensation/mold/rot.

I think a continuous soffit vent, and then vent channels in rafter bays that extend to above the collar ties with gable vents would work fine. Air sealing, especially at the eaves, is extremely important, and the more R-value you can get at the location the better as well.
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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: KS Flint Hills 20x30 1.5 story
« Last post by KJones on September 20, 2021, 07:18:07 AM »
I guess let me restate the question.

Do I need to vent the roof, I'm seeing a lot of people say no but not as to why you shouldn't. If someone recommend a direction and why that would be great. Ridge venting is out of the question at this point.

Thanks,
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Referral Links / Re: Foundation Plugin for SketchUp
« Last post by Medeek on September 19, 2021, 04:31:38 AM »
Now that I'm on the subject of windows it may also be useful to add in some sort of window well feature:



Window Well Options:

Type: Steel
Shape: Rectangle, Arc, Trapezoid
Width:
Projection:
Depth:
Radius:
Vertical Offset:
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Referral Links / Re: Foundation Plugin for SketchUp
« Last post by Medeek on September 18, 2021, 02:21:41 PM »
I've been thinking about adding in a Door and Window module to the polyline stemwalls.  However, I'm not very familiar with what is common practice as far window and door bucks go.

Any feedback or drawings/details would be greatly appreciated.





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Referral Links / Re: Foundation Plugin for SketchUp
« Last post by Medeek on September 18, 2021, 09:09:57 AM »
Version 1.7.7 - 09.18.2021
- Added an ICF option for stemwall steps.

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Owner-Builder Projects / Re: KS Flint Hills 20x30 1.5 story
« Last post by Don_P on September 18, 2021, 03:13:40 AM »
Things slow down when your feet leave the ground. I prefer soffit and ridge venting. Gable vents will vent and dry the upper "attic" zone but those lower areas will be stagnant.
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Referral Links / Re: Wall Plugin for SketchUp
« Last post by Medeek on September 15, 2021, 03:10:46 AM »
I've been giving the "wall sandwich" thing some serious thought the last couple of days and I think I can implement a workable system however it will drastically change the way I am currently doing things as well as break any sort of backwards compatibility with previous versions of the plugin and their models.

In the global settings I will probably have a select number of options you can choose from to build your custom wall sandwich (I will also have some standard ones pre-defined).  Interior and Exterior walls will be different in that you cannot use wainscot and cladding with interior walls.  Interior walls can be asymmetric with this new system so you can have different layers specified on each sides of the wall, unlike the current system which limits interior walls to symmetric configurations only.

Exterior Walls:

Ext. Side:

- Wainscot
- Cladding 1
- Cladding 2
- Airgap 1, 2, 3 etc...
- Sheathing 1
- Sheathing 2
- Insul 1

Int. Side:

- Gypsum 1
- Gypsum 2
- Gypsum 3
- Airgap 1,2, 3 etc...
- Sheathing 1
- Sheathing 2
- Insul 1

Interior Walls:

Ext. Side:

- Gypsum 1
- Gypsum 2
- Gypsum 3
- Airgap 1,2, 3 etc...
- Sheathing 1
- Sheathing 2
- Insul 1

Int. Side:

- Gypsum 1
- Gypsum 2
- Gypsum 3
- Airgap 1,2, 3 etc...
- Sheathing 1
- Sheathing 2
- Insul 1

The actual layering can be in any order except for wainscot which will always be the outermost layer on an ext. wall.  I'm not sure that two layers of cladding are really needed for an ext. wall but I'm just throwing it out there for now and see what sticks.

As far as the framing/wall solid is concerned I only plan on having one layer for framing, if I were to change that up to a variable number of framing layers things would get very complicated with regards to corner configurations so it is best to not get too ambitious.

The items shown are all of the possible layers for each side of the wall in question, one could theoretically enable all of them or none of them, and the number of air gaps is probably not limited.

Am I missing anything?  Thoughts? 

Your feedback now is important, once I install/implement a new wall sandwich system it will be more difficult to fundamentally change it from the form it originally takes.
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