Quote from: fletcherpearson on March 06, 2025, 09:59:31 AMHey, this all makes a ton of sense really appreciate the breakdown! I like the idea of testing first instead of jumping straight to a fan. The clean stone fill part really clicked for me too hadn't thought about how it helps direct air into the pipe instead of through random cracks.
Also, I had to laugh at the "sin" of running the pipe horizontally sometimes you just gotta do what works! Did you ever test your radon levels after setting it up? Curious how well the passive system worked on its own.

I never tested it. In retrospect, I don't think I needed the vent at all because we are about a foot above grade. May not have been a bad idea to run the pipe either way, and just cap it in the attic. My big regret is running vents through our standing seam roof - I wish I had run them out the gable.

All of my building science decisions were based off doing what Joe Lstiburek said to do. No regrets, although even though we don't use electricity for heating our energy bill has pretty well doubled these days. Only way to cut back would be to stop showering our kids, which they'd love, and stop washing clothes!

Version 3.6.4b - 03.15.2025
- Enabled subtractive geometry for all TJI and Glulam Beam rafter roofs.

Version 3.6.4 - 03.13.2025
- Enabled subtractive geometry for all dutch gable rafter roofs.

Quote from: NathanS on July 28, 2018, 08:30:19 PMHi Will, yes.. the main thing I remember about the radon vent was we put it in after I spent all day in the stone screeding it level... didn't go for the camera. I asked my wife if she has any pics, I don't think she does but I will post if so.
I think it was actually two lengths of 3' schedule 40 4" pipe that ran into a sanitary T, then the vertical we used a bushing and shrunk to 3" where it comes out of the slab. We drilled a bunch of holes in the 4" pipe and capped the ends. I used schedule 40 cause we had it, and the perforated drain pipe at the stores is a lessor thickness and probably doesn't work with other sch 40 plumbing fittings.
Anyway, it comes out of the slab, and does run horizontally through the first floor ceiling (a sin), then up through a bedroom wall and into the attic and out of the roof. It is powered by stack effect.
The clean stone fill is now depressurized and all the air or potential radon leaks into that pipe instead of through any unintended cracks elsewhere. Radon is more dense than air, so it will prefers to sink into basements like a swimming pool. If I had a basement I would use the same system (clean fill under the slab is important), and would then test for radon in the basement after using just the passive vent. If levels were still high, only then would I add a fan inside the tube. I might even look for cracks and try to tighten things up and retest before adding a vent. If you vent straight outside at ground level you will have to use a fan, because there is not going to be enough stack effect.
I didn't really need the poly under my slab, and is not there for radon... at the time I was concerned about the inspector. we had 4" of XPS foam which is already a vapor barrier. A lot of times people mix up air barrier and vapor barrier... lots of confusion over that one. The slab is your air barrier, the joint between slab and wall needs to be air tight too. Going from memory I think radon can actually migrate through concrete... so if you are in a high radon area you do still need to vent it.
Hope this makes sense.

Hey, this all makes a ton of sense really appreciate the breakdown! I like the idea of testing first instead of jumping straight to a fan. The clean stone fill part really clicked for me too hadn't thought about how it helps direct air into the pipe instead of through random cracks.
Also, I had to laugh at the "sin" of running the pipe horizontally sometimes you just gotta do what works! Did you ever test your radon levels after setting it up? Curious how well the passive system worked on its own.

Version 3.9.1 - 02.23.2025
- Added the following (48 - low poly) Simpson post caps to the post module: CC1210, CC718_718, CC718_8, CC718_6, CC718_4, CC514_8, CC514_6, CC514_4, CC462_550, CC462_462, CC462_362, CC314_6, CC314_4, CC128, CC126, CC106, CC98, CC96, CC94, CC88, CC86, CC84, CC78, CC77, CC76, CC74, CC68, CC66, CC64, CC48, CC46, CC44, CC6_718, CCO4, CCO6, CCO7, CCO8, CCO9, CCO10, CCO12, CCO46, CCO314, CCO462, CCO514, CCO718, ECC64, ECC66, ECC68.





This update per customer request.

I still need to add in the rest of the ECC series, so there is always more to do.

Now that was an adventure!

I'm headed to the cabin today!  Woot!  Love being up there and looking forward to this trip.  It will be a sloppy wet weekend I think but that's ok, the woodstove will keep me warm

Meanwhile here's my latest video:

In today's installment of: The Old Jarhead is waiting to get back to his cabin....

Meanwhile, I'm heading up alone on Friday which will be the first trip on my own since November!  Wow!  I haven't been away this much in a long while and due to my hand healing and not liking it when I drive more than 5 minutes I've not tried to drive up -- nor with my back been willing to go alone much in fear of slipping a disc of two and having to crawl out.

But I have a Zoleo now and Starlink so can at least crawl to my phone or the zoleo and push the help button if need be!  LOL Getting old isn't for the weak!

Enjoy and get out there!
Erik

Thanks rothbard! 

We appreciate you too and look forward to seeing more photos when you're able to post them!

I've started working on adding in a scissor truss option into the module. Here are some quick and dirty (sorry I must have set my lunch down on my engineering pad earlier today) calcs for the heel joint of such a truss: