https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Yo_7uKcFYw

This is a good example 

Quote from: MountainDon on March 21, 2023, 02:38:48 PMSo this is an enclosed trailer, sorta like a cargo trailer but built on a gooseneck chassis?  If so, ask the constructor how to best safely attach to the shell structure he builds.

If you mean you want to take a flat deck equipment gooseneck trailer and build a house structure on it yourself I personally would rethink that whole idea. I believe the weight would get very heavy if the entire shell was built from wood. Plus welded steel tubing is better suited to a mobile structure. (or aluminum tubing if done by a certified aluminum welder.)

Perhaps I don't fully understand the purpose and what/how you wish to do this?

It's a Tiny house on wheels (THOW). It's a pretty commonplace concept now with hundreds of gooseneck specific tiny houses available on youtube to check out. The house is built directly on the gooseneck trailer as the foundation. Several different ways to tie/secure it to the frame. I'll also be adding 3 or 4 pieces per side of all one piece all-thread that will go from below the trailer up the entire wall and mount on the top plate. 

Not so worried about the house itself, but the deck on top of the house. 

I would add another midspan post under the new load bearing walls to shorten thar span. I actually think it would be good to nail the rafters into the deckboards -- think of them as the joists preventing spreading or compression. Also if the deck is attached to your house with a ledger I would think about sticking a post or pilaster under the load bearing ends against the wall.

Nice A-frame.

I would consider installing a horizontal run of rope anchors (screw hooks?) just beneath the upper window.  Install a matching set of anchors on the outer hand rail.  Install a (rope reinforced?) rectangular sheet of heavy tarp... just for the season.  This inclined plane should keep much of your porch area free of snow, snow that now gets dumped beyond the hand rail.  Probably will require a "thumping" underneath after each snowfall.  ??

So this is an enclosed trailer, sorta like a cargo trailer but built on a gooseneck chassis?  If so, ask the constructor how to best safely attach to the shell structure he builds.

If you mean you want to take a flat deck equipment gooseneck trailer and build a house structure on it yourself I personally would rethink that whole idea. I believe the weight would get very heavy if the entire shell was built from wood. Plus welded steel tubing is better suited to a mobile structure. (or aluminum tubing if done by a certified aluminum welder.)

Perhaps I don't fully understand the purpose and what/how you wish to do this?

I am planning a 32' gooseneck Trailer (would probably be closer to a 38-40' trailer including the gooseneck area). 

I want to build a deck on top of the roof. I'm going to have a metal roof and siding. Originally I was thinking of going with a flat roof (as flat as I could), but on second thought with the deck, I think I should go with a standard style roof (slopes on both sides, high in the center). Reason is, I need some type of support for my deck. I'm not sure how to go about doing this constructionally. 

The trailer will be 13.5ft tall from the ground, so roughly about 11.5-12ft high. I don't know if they make 4x4's that tall. If so I was thinking about getting 6 or 8 long 4x4's and putting 3 or 4 of them on each side of the trailer as part of the framing of the house, but allowing them to extend through the roof somehow so I can build the deck straight onto those and just barely passing over the center top of the room. I'll then make some anchors on the side of the decks that will allow for a "drop-in" railing to set place so I can still maintain my 13.5'ft legal road height, but can reinstall the railing whenever I arrive at my destination. 

What is the best way to go about this? Is it as simple at building a 4x4 (maybe a 6x6?) into the frame, allowing it to extend past the roof, and then just sealing it all up the same way I would seal up a chimney or fan chute that protrudes through the roof? 

Am I completely off the wall in thinking this is feasible? 

Nice Jeep!

As for the structure, I guess that would be a question for someone more engineering in mind.  Seems to me the snow load would be minimal so I can't see an issue but I don't know.

I built an off grid A-frame house in a remote area of the sierras in the summer of 2016 & have been living in it full time ever since. We get A LOT of snow where I live & for that reason I regret not 'indenting' the front & back of my A-frame in the traditional sense to provide a snow shelter for the front and back doors & decks. 

Im thinking I will just erect more "A's" but uncertain if setting the A's on top of the current deck structure (pictured) which consists of double 2x10x12 is a good idea? Maybe you all have some advice? Maybe I should strip the 2x6 deck boards at the edge of the deck & lay a 2x10 down to set the bottoms of the A's on?

All the A's are currently sitting atop a ~9ft cinder block stem wall. The roof sheds snow immediately so very little weight will be added to the deck structure in the way of snow, however, the snow shedding off the A's piles up on the sides to such a degree that I assume puts a degree of pressure inward.


 Attached are some picture's of what I have going on. 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/m9AQZXoTXQZtBrFUA
 https://photos.app.goo.gl/h5ZaPpUbsC7Y4oRT8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q2Wou78Q9axzgUjV6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8MXe9NJD76CcVXyi8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/uhdYoYCJrZYcdUPv9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/h5ZaPpUbsC7Y4oRT8

I'll have to see how many cells there are and get the charge voltage right.  I have the PDF somewhere at home   Time to get them up to speed on charge I think.

https://up.codes/viewer/new_york/irc-2018/chapter/6/wall-construction#R602.7

By the book, I believe you would want to use the spans for table 602.7 "Roof, ceiling and one clear-span floor"

A doubled 2x10 can span 6' 1" in 50psf snowload.

Alternative would be to add another screw to shorten the load bearing wall span.