Tying a concrete block crawl to poured basement

[ray_in_kentucky]

I may be putting an addition on a 50 year old cape cod with a poured concrete basement.  The basement comes up about 2 feet above grade, and I want to use a concrete block foundation on the addition.  Does anyone have a cross sectional drawing of this tie in detail, including any hardware used to do this?

Thanks

[glenn-k]

This will usually be designed by your engineer or architect if the building department requires drawings or inspections.

If not, it would be common to cut the opening - break it out, drill holes and epoxy rebar in about every foot and continue the reinforcement into the addition walls.  It is also common to have to install a steel header and possibly jambs around the area where the new opening will be cut into the wall - usually before the cut to be sure the wall above the cut is still supported.  It all depends on the particular conditions you are working with.

[ray_in_kentucky]

Glenn:  Thanks for the reply.  This is to be a small (6x10?) bump out  foyer meant to cure an ungainly entrance (basement stairs and 2 steps up to floor level immediately on entering my back door).  I failed to explain that I won't be opening the existing exterior wall up in any way, merely taking the existing back door out of its' jamb.

I can see what I need to do to tie the new walls into the existing walls, and how to tie in the roof framing, but I am not clear if the new footer should be tied to the existing basement walls (epoxy in anchors prior to the pour ass you suggested) and how to tie the block (maybe 4 or 5 courses) to the concrete walls.

I have built an addition on another house previously.  In my location, at the time I did this, I was able to get a homeowners building permit, and only had to show a plan view of the addition and a cross section of the footing, foundation, wall and roof framing.  I did not need an architect or engineer stamp (although this may have changed).

[glenn-k]

If no engineering or permit was required - possibly taking a sketch to the permit agency will answer this, I would just put a 1/2" rebar every foot or so  nearly full of the wall - commonly at least 4 to 6 inches around all connection areas - leave at least 20 bar diameters lap out to tie to if not putting in the complete bar to go into the new wall, or if permits and drawings required the engineer or architect will have specs to follow.

The above is something similar to things I have done in the past and may not be fitting for your project but should give you ideas of what can be done.  A rotohammer will drill the holes in about 2 to 5 minutes each if you have a big enough one.