Sheathing break at bottom plate/ rim -- tie plates?

[rothbard]

On 8' walls one has a conundrum in sheathing over rim joists.

You can sheath vertically, and end up exactly one 4x8 sheathing board vertical around the house, however this would have no overhang onto the rim joist / foundation below.  You can also use 9' or larger sheets, but those are difficult to source in my area.

I was thinking of using metal lateral tie plates and then sheathing the rim joist+sill plate separately from the wall, then joining the sheathing with the tie plates or straps for uplift trace from the bolted sill plate to the walls (I also used rafter ties on the joists to tie the joists and everything connected to them down to the foundation anchors as well).

Just curious if anyone else came across this issue and how you solved it.

[MountainDon]

The OSB sheathing in 4x9 and 4x10 sizes and is the best solution. Maybe not at your local big box store, but some near me carry them, or one or the other in addition to the usual 4x8. 

[Don_P]

I usually run it from the bottom of the sill up 8', a row of blocking, and a strip to the top plate. I've not noticed a study or anything in the design standards other than "block all edges". My thinking is put the joint high. I've also run horizontal sheathing so the bottom row could be treated. and horizontal is stronger.. then 2 rows of blocking. I hate blocking.

I've also nailed strapping alongside the anchor bolt holes on the bottom of the sill. Leave it sticking out while you frame and then bend it up and nail to the rim and sole and stud if possible, then sheath.

I did one a couple of years ago where we felled the trees, sawed the lumber and sheathing and diagonally sheathed the walls with 1x6's. which was very strong. the bottom edge had a critter gap every 6". I went through several tubes of caulk. I like the concept especially with inflation in materials, but not the gaps.

Edit; The critter gap on the end of a diagonal 1x6 would occur every 6" x 1.414= 8.484"