Placment of the last stud on a 30' wall

[BigMish]

In framing a 30' wall with studs 16" o.c. the last bay will be much smaller than the others right?

That is to say, the distance between the outer edge of the first stud and the second is 15 ¼", the second and third is 16", third and forth is 16" etc. all the way down the wall. Ok so far so good. But then I get to the placement of the last studs and the distance between the outer edge of the last stud and the second to last stud is either 7 ¼" or 23 ¼" (see image below - note that I am using 2x6s which is why there is a double layer of blocking at the corner post).

Am I missing something or should I just adopt either of these solutions?

[glenn-k]

Keep spacing consistent - add the last stud.  There are more energy efficient corners but the one you posted will work.  There was something posted here previously about corners with room for insulation - less wood contact to the outside.  Sorry I don't have time to search it- gotta do some work.

[BigMish]

Got is, so the last stud will be 7 1/4" from the second to last. Thanks Glen. I'll poke around and see if I can't find that post you mention.

.M

[MountainDon]

I agree with Glenn on the constant spacing. Mostly for later "what-if" scenarios. There's nothing worse than locating several studs that are consistently the same distance apart in the wall and assuming that the remainder of the wall would be the same and finding out it isn't. Of course assumptions should be avoided, but we always don't follow that rule.  

This may be the alternate stud corner. There's another way that eliminates a stud and replaces it with drywall clips. That though was shot down as less desirable by those who had actual field experience with them. With a small space to insulate I'd maybe consider foaming it rather than trying to stuff the insulation in evenly thru an awkwardly small opening.    :-/

[tc-vt]

That open corner is sometimes referred to as a California Corner, I think.  It saves a bit of lumber but may not be as strong.  My friend who helped me with the framing used them in my house.

As the other replies stated, keep adding your studs at whatever spacing you are doing (16 or 24) right into corners or king studs where you are roughing in for headers, even if it results in two studs right next to eachother.

Another thing that is important is to work in the same direction when you lay out your walls and the positions of their studs so the studs are even with each other on opposing walls.  Do the same for upper floor wall or gable end wall stud layout so they are also directly above the studs on the floor below.

Tom

[PEG688]

The " L " corner is strong enough what it does give you if you use a true corner board  ( corner brd on both sides instead of a single 2x4 corner brd up one wall and sticking out to cover the siding on the other )  is nailing for your siding .

The "L " corner  , if you have to place a beam pocket in it can be 2 ea. then the L side if you have to carry a big load.

Another thing IF you have hold downs you'll need to add 2 x4's spiked to the 2x6's to allow for nailing of that hold down strap.

Interior partions also can be "L " type backer a 2x6 catch's a 2x4 interior wall and gives you D/W nailing.

Don they are very easy to insulate behind , so save your foam for wire & pipe holes.  

G/L PEG