I have 16 acres paid off, w/ well, septic, and electric will be about $2k to hook up.
I initially was considering a cordwood, or possibly earthbag style home. I still like cordwood the most but I've recently started considering barndominiums or ICF. I will be coming into a good chunk of money soon hopefully mid 6 figures and plan to start building as soon as I get it and have the house, land, water taken care of and hopefully enough for a decent solar backup w/battery bank. What would be all around cheap and energy efficient? I'm in the Midwest where we occasionally get a tornado, none too bad in my area in 100yrs, and some snow but I wouldn't consider it a major concern like some parts of the N/NE.

I've been giving the feedback I received thus far on the new opening tool some serious thought  and after further testing I can see that adjusting the header extensions to reach out and grab the correct joist is probably the biggest bottle neck in the process, if you can call it that.

Below is an example of a six sided L-shaped opening in a floor.  It has three headers and three "trimmers".  Note that headers run perpendicular to the joists however the opening tool really makes no distinction between headers and trimmers, they all have the same ten parameters.



I had to make five entries to adjust the headers to meet the I-Joists as shown.  Really not that difficult but somewhat time consuming and tedious in my opinion.  The solution to this problem could be to have the plugin somehow detect the nearest joist and auto-extend to it.  However, I feel that such an algorithm would be overly complicated and probably not very robust.

The other option would be to create a "Header Stretch" tool that allow the user to simply mouse over the header, select one end or the other and then stretch it to the desired location.  This tool would be very similar to the "Wall Stretch" tool that is part of the Wall plugin.  Rather than navigating through the labyrinth of menus one could simply adjust each end with only three mouse clicks.

Again, I have my work cut out for me.

I've also realized that it is not readily apparent to the user which header is which.  I may need to incorporate some sort of labeling option that will assist with this.

Version 1.0.1 - 05.18.2025
- Added floor openings with fully customizable headers.
- Added the floor openings toolbar with the following five items: Draw, Move, Edit, Regen and Delete.

Thanks for the heads up! Just took care of it (banned one/entirely deleted the other)

Quote from: Adam Raabe on May 10, 2025, 12:12:22 PMLooks that question was from a spammer (had a hidden link in signature, since deleted) but thanks for jumpin' in to help!

Other recent 1st posters have spam signature links. https://countryplans.com/smf/index.php/topic,15866.0.html https://countryplans.com/smf/index.php/topic,15997.0.html https://countryplans.com/smf/index.php/topic,16003.0.html

In ductless mini split systems, when temperatures drop below freezing, the outdoor unit can accumulate ice on the coil. This triggers a defrost cycle where the system temporarily stops heating indoors. If it's constantly in defrost mode or never fully clears the ice, overall performance drops.

The AWC calculator may be handy for sizing the rafters. 
https://awc.org/calculators/span-options-calculator-for-wood-joists-and-rafters/

There is a tutorial and versions for Android and iOS

Quote from: DavidMSmith on May 12, 2025, 04:31:40 AM.......This approach doesn't seem right and I am unsure how to properly frame this section to ensure proper stability and support for the roof.

I don't fully understand what part you are questioning. The supporting wall design or the roof rafter design?  In case it will help here's a drawing of the rafter to wall joints.
 

I am planning on building a 20'x12' shed roof cabin and am having some confusion when modeling the framing in SketchUp, specifically regarding the side walls (scratch walls) and how the rafters sit on the top slab. The front wall is 12 feet high, while the back wall is 8 feet, using 2x6 lumber. 

This approach doesn't seem right and I am unsure how to properly frame this section to ensure proper stability and support for the roof. 

Any guidance on the correct framing technique would be greatly appreciated!