Recent posts

#11
General Forum / Gable end framing -- hinge eff...
Last post by rothbard - July 23, 2024, 08:03:47 AM




I looked back through this forum and didn't find any examples of the 1 story 20x30 being built with balloon framed gable ends.

I was wondering if maybe others had found some way to mitigate the hinge effect as seen above when wind force acts upon a platform framed end?

the 20x30 single story design has an open beam ceiling.  This doesn't leave a diaphragm or support I can think of to stop the above hinge effect at the gable end other than staggering the sheathing.

Curious if I had missed something?  The plans don't call out baloon length studs here either.  I looked for any details providing hinge support.  I'm going to plan on just baloon framing the 2x6 gable end all the way to the roof I guess since those ends aren't "load bearing" as the roof is steep enough at 10:12 that the ridge board has essentially no downward force.

I found this particular video of the same consideration for a similar design

#12
General Forum / Re: Subfloor and Rain
Last post by MountainDon - July 22, 2024, 04:41:50 PM
Quote from: JRR on July 18, 2024, 07:39:20 PMI wonder how it would work to cut up a sheet of plywood into strips, perhaps a foot wide and use these strips around the edges. .. between the floor joists and walls? This would leave the joists open with no large area plywood membrane to catch the wet elements....

One thing that full sheets do, when nailed to the floor joists and rim joists under the exterior walls, is to tie the joists together. With the subflooring nailed in place and the exterior walls nailed on top the rims are held in place. The whole floor assembly is quite ridgid and the rims cannot be easily pulled away from the floor joists. What you propose would have the side rims maily secured to the floor joists ends by fasteners into the end grain. Easy to be pulled loose. Keep that in mind. Advantech lasts a very long time.
#13
General Forum / Re: Subfloor and Rain
Last post by rothbard - July 22, 2024, 10:20:26 AM
Quote from: JRR on July 18, 2024, 07:39:20 PMI wonder how it would work to cut up a sheet of plywood into strips, perhaps a foot wide and use these strips around the edges. .. between the floor joists and walls? This would leave the joists open with no large area plywood membrane to catch the wet elements.  Or. with careful measuring and planning, full sheets could be used in the same way as strips with the idea for full sheets to be added later to finish the floor.  It might make for a better outcome .. .. as long as someone doesn't fall on or through the open joists.  Ouch!

Yep that's another good idea.  Only consideration is adding backing in the areas at either end where it no longer falls under a joist and the T&G would need to fit in after being boxed from both directions.

I ended up buying advantech and got it all laid down.  They claim it's good for 500 days without needing sanding to fix it.  We will see.  Despite being stiffer than OSB and Plywood it conformed to my joists just fine.  Guess they were more level than I thought.

Hopefully there is no pooled water next time I come back but if there is I will drill hole in any low spots.  That will force me to delay putting in the vapor barrier in the crawlspace until the roof is up but I imagine they'll be OK waiting until then.
#14
General Forum / Question about filling void be...
Last post by gradygodfrey - July 22, 2024, 02:12:09 AM
Hello,

I have a gap of about 40x5 inches between the outer wall of my house and the drywall inside. I'd like to block it up as we're in that time of year when mice may crawl in and get in the house. The filler foam was unsuccessful, so I was thinking of blocking it up with some wood and then using filler foam around any gaps to truly seal it up.

Would this be the beat course of action, or am I missing something better? Would getting some insulation cut to fit be a better solution, or something else? 

Thanks in advance!
#15
Referral Links / Re: Truss Calculators
Last post by Medeek - July 21, 2024, 03:11:27 AM
Version 3.6.2 - 07.21.2024
- Enabled "flat" ceiling gypsum for complex rafter roofs.
- Fixed a minor bug with the hip-and-ridge for hip rafter roofs.

#16
Owner-Builder Projects / Re: Multi-phased 1 1/2 story h...
Last post by phalynx - July 20, 2024, 11:04:44 PM
Would you believe it? We didn't move. Well, not yet. We are now moving to Alaska in less than 6 months time. Fun! We stayed here 12 additional years. House hasn't move one inch. Solid construction. Loved it.

Alas, on to the new adventure...
#17
Referral Links / Re: Truss Calculators
Last post by Medeek - July 19, 2024, 05:23:39 AM
Version 3.6.1 - 07.19.2024
- Added Soffit Cut within Advanced Options for Complex Rafter Roofs.
- Fixed a **critical bug** with the complex roof module.

#18
Referral Links / Re: Medeek Electrical Plugin
Last post by Medeek - July 18, 2024, 08:50:37 PM
Version 1.4.7 - 07.18.2024
- Added combined "smoke/CO" detectors under safety devices.
- Updated the Legend tool to include combined smoke/CO devices.



The included device in the smoke/CO library is a KIDDE 30CUDR. Just bought this one yesterday and modeled it this morning.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CX664SNZ

Note the 2D symbol text for this type of device is "SC".
#19
General Forum / Re: Subfloor and Rain
Last post by JRR - July 18, 2024, 07:39:20 PM
I wonder how it would work to cut up a sheet of plywood into strips, perhaps a foot wide and use these strips around the edges. .. between the floor joists and walls? This would leave the joists open with no large area plywood membrane to catch the wet elements.  Or. with careful measuring and planning, full sheets could be used in the same way as strips with the idea for full sheets to be added later to finish the floor.  It might make for a better outcome .. .. as long as someone doesn't fall on or through the open joists.  Ouch!
#20
General Forum / Re: Subfloor and Rain
Last post by rothbard - July 17, 2024, 10:38:34 AM
Thanks Don and Jsahara.  I'll have to go buy a sheet of advantech and see how flexible it is.  Guessing I'll need it to flex up to 1" / 8 feet.

I did see one interesting idea online, possibly I could double plate the bottom of the walls and then build the walls without the subfloor in.  I'll have to keep that one in consideration.