Post and beam

[Bob S.]

Newbe; Bob s
 I am looking for some advice on how tall you can make the post on a post and beam foundation. I plan on making a 20'X30' 1 & 1/2 story but puting a 20'X30'
Grauge under it. I want to make the post 8' foot tall. Would it be better to use 6" walls on top of the beam instead of the 8' tall post? The 6" wall would just be resting on the beam that is on top of the Peres.

[PEG688]

I'd say the 6' wall placed on beam that where right in the pier saddles would be way stronger. You intend to sheath the walls right?

The sheathing would provide the racking strength as well as the 'hold it up' strenght.

  I'd think you'd only need the 'pony walls'  on the 4 exterior walls , the center beam could sit up high at the top of the posts, with two each 4' or so diagonal braces lagged together.


    aboard. 

   

[Bob S.]

I do plan on a single car garage door (probably 10') so I would have a 5' pony walls, one on eather side of the garage door.
On the 20'X30' 1 &1/2 story plans John does not show a center beam so I should have a nice size garage under the house.
Thay made me put the septic on higer ground, that is further from the river.
I do not want to use a sewer pump so I need to build the house up.
Another benefit is that by building up we will have a enhanced view down the river.
How will I be able to deal with Hinging movement between the beam and the 6" wall?
I do plan on sheating the walls but I will cover the sheating with corrugated aluminum like on the OKANOGAN 20X30 (just on the lower level)
Bob S.

[PEG688]

How will I be able to deal with Hinging movement between the beam and the 6" wall?


I do plan on sheathing the walls but I will cover the sheating with corrugated aluminum like on the OKANOGAN 20X30 (just on the lower level)

The sheathing will help , you won't have that outward push on that area that you'd have up near the roof .

You could wrap a metal strap from the stud down under the beam and back up the other side of the stud maybe ever third one but NOT on the studs that have a sheathing break / seam on them.


  But IF you don't live in earth quake country IMO you'll be OK just with the sheathing. I'm sure a engineer would disagree as a building dept would as well.

SO IF your getting a permit you WILL need engineering MTL. BUT If your just building a small building I'm sure from a practical stand point that the beam down low ,  a 6' pony wall placed on it and sheathed .With a normal box sill and floor above it again tying those two levels together with the lower sheathing running up and tying into the first floor walls you'd be hell for stout.


Again IF you have to pass code you'd need to block the horizontal  seam / break between the first and second course of sheathing as the inspectors here pick out the "nail all edges" line in the code.

So in closing "it depends " on where your building and IF you need to pass a inspection on some of the details.