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Referral Links / Re: Truss Calculators
« Last post by Medeek on Today at 11:30:58 AM »
Version 2.0.4b - Added the 8/8 configuration:

Yeah probably a good call OlJarhead, so gonna be spending today beefing up those headers, rather than ripping them out entirely I'm just building a smaller 2x4 header and placing underneath, this should give me enough strength equivilant (or nearly so) to a 2x10

I had him add a foot of cantilever and change the chord for some lookouts, but unfortunately he said his software isn't able to test the wind in that way.

 I went ahead and placed an order for the trusses as everyone seems to be backed up right now. Unfortunately the trusses wont be done until late nov. or early dec.  :-\ Obviously I'll throw a tarp over it but I'm almost debating if I should just do some kind of SUPER simple low pitch shed roof or something until spring and just throw the trusses up then. Either way it's gonna be close with this weather! Should be exciting. Stay tuned!
Referral Links / Re: Truss Calculators
« Last post by Rys on Today at 03:28:22 AM »
Thanks! This is just what I needed. Now if I can just figure out sketch up!   ???
Referral Links / Re: Truss Calculators
« Last post by Medeek on Yesterday at 04:42:28 PM »
The updated truss menu:

Referral Links / Re: Truss Calculators
« Last post by Medeek on Yesterday at 03:43:33 PM »
Version 2.0.4 - 10.21.2017
- Added Parallel Chord (vaulted) truss type, configurations: (2/2, 4/4, 6/6).

I will still need to enable structural outlookers and plates for this truss type, but everything else should be there:

- Roof Cladding
- Roof Sheathing
- Gable Wall Cladding
- Gable Wall Sheathing
- Ceiling Gypsum
- Ridge Cap


View model here:
General Forum / Re: OFF GRID POWER; various thoughts on...
« Last post by OlJarhead on Yesterday at 12:15:42 PM »
Hmmmm........ok first 3 panels are up and wanted to get at least two more up before leaving this weekend but it's been snowing so that aint happening.  I thought perhaps I could get some equipment installed but my idea of putting it inside isn't working too well either.  So that leaves me back to putting it in the porch which I was trying to avoid.

Next issue was that I realized two of the 3 DC breaker placements on the Midnite Solar 250A Disconnect box were taken up (one for PV in and one for Controller out) leaving only one remaining spot for the new controller out breaker.....I could leave the combiner breakers as my only breaker in the mix on the Outback Controller but am not sure I like that idea so I'm trying to figure out how to now install a 4th breaker in this box.  There is an opening at the rear up top that looks like a plate can be installed there, perhaps for installing more breakers and I'm hoping that is the case becuase I'd rather not have to buy more boxes.  As it is now I have two Midnite Solar PV combiner boxes and the Midnite Solar DC Disconnect box.
Plans Support / Re: Help! Want to expand the 20x30 w/loft into a 24x40 w/loft.
« Last post by Rys on Yesterday at 11:01:41 AM »
Talked to Medeek the other day. Hopefully he'll have a parallel chord truss in his plug-ins soon.
Going to my property today to take some pictures for siting our cabin. This has been a dream years in the making. I am SO excited!
General Forum / Re: Side Project
« Last post by flyingvan on Yesterday at 08:39:07 AM »
   The fourth and final wall is all insulated and sheer paneled now.  Each wall had its issues--for this one it was the subpanel.

   When the roof was re-framed I ran some new circuits.  The old electrical was 30a service for the whole house, feeding just three circuits---one of which was the dedicated fridge circuit.  I wanted the new laundry to have its own circuit.  Same with the new lanai.  Also wanted an outlet in the bathroom.
    So the power was all shut off and I demo'd the wall where the feed ends of my new circuits were hiding, waiting.  The wires feeding the sub panel were 10 AWG (perfectly fine for 30a) What wasn't perfectly fine-- at the main panel there was nothing whatsoever connected to the neutral bar.  The neutral feed to the sub panel was wired directly to the grounding rod.
    Upgrades---all new sub panel with 8 circuits total.  2-0 wire feeding it from new 90a main, properly wired to ground AND neutral.  GFCI breaker for the circuit feeding the outdoor outlets and light over the outdoor shower.  GFCI outlet with its own circuit in the bathroom. 
    I ended up with two empty spaces on the panel (went with the same brand, Murray, so I could re-use some of the breakers, they were not very old)  which happened to be exactly the size of the 30a double that used to feed the house.  I had everything necessary except for the wire to add a 220 dryer style outlet to the outside


    Why?  mostly because it was easy to do now... It might become the power source if I ever have a really big party here.  Maybe jacuzzi power.  Or perhaps someday I'll have an electric car to charge.  In a pinch I could use it to plug a generator in to power the house, though I'd really prefer to have the proper power transfer switch.

   Also built the doors for water heater, laundry, and storage so it's all coming along



    Might be my imagination but all the lights seem brighter and vent fans seem to run better. 
Owner-Builder Projects / Re: 20 x 20 w bedroom in Ohio
« Last post by dablack on Yesterday at 05:42:06 AM »
I avoided dormers and any other roof penetration but if I was to do one, I would make it shed roof and give it a good over hang on the sides and front.  Make sure you get your drainage plain right!  For some reason really good builders get confused when it comes to dormers.  Those sides are tiny little walls and you need to treat them that way.  I really like some of the European eyebrow dormers where there is no side wall to the dormer and the roof just arches over them.  If I was doing slate tile or shingles, I would do that!  I always use a metal roof so it doesn't really work for me. 

Referral Links / Re: Truss Calculators
« Last post by Rys on October 20, 2017, 12:14:33 PM »
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