If you have to upload with dial up, then reducing the pix first is a real time saver, but if on DSL it may be easiest to load to Photobucket then click the 640x480 or so option for output size.But he doesn't use Photobucket. He uses what appears to be web space provided by his ISP, BrightNet Oklahoma. :-\
Looks like you got the original CCA PT wood -- I think it is better than the new stuff and I think it is still available for commercial uses.
What influenced your choice of 2X verses 5/4 decking.
Hope your's were lighter than mine.
I was thinking to park the backhoe right in front of that window. Sound like a good spot glen?
Scott, are you taking "passive/aggressive lessons from Glenn?
(https://countryplans.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs1259.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii544%2FScottAarchive%2Fcp%2F121307.jpg&hash=63bcd2f6ab65b0593554cdd220d5749cb0a0d294)
Foundation beams are done. Weather is still crappy for over a week now. Starting on the floor tomorrow weather permiting.
Scott
Make sure of your rafter spacing. Nothing will tick you off more if the sheeting does not break right on them.
Wow, you just started on the roof today? I thought you were working alone?
No chemtrails today just bright blue sky.>:( You must have looked up.
I will ask a silly question. Did you double the rafter on the next to last one? Are you going to install a false rafter for a overhang? Just curious I guess.
Nice way your finishing your roof! Won't be hard to sheet it off now. How are you going to vent the upper area/roof? Mark
I read alot of conflicting information on venting of cathedral cielings. Some feel that venting can cause as many problems as it solves. My feeling is that a sealed cieling is less likely to have moisture problems than a vented one. Shingle manufacturers will warrantly shingles on a sealed cathedral cieling. Also studies have shown that roof color has more to do with surface tempatures than venting.I have 2 buildings that are only vented on the ridge cap. The buildings are not insulated and are 18X28 one story and 26 X 36 barn with one haft 2 story. I do not heat the buildings so there is little tempture change in them. The roofs are metal with plywood & tar paper under the metal. Both can be sealed off from the weather and the 2 story one is all the time but not my shop it has the garage door open 95% of the time. I have never had any mold, moisture ect problems in 12 years. I did have to plug off the ridge in the 2 story part due to snow blowing in it but left 2 small cavitys open to let a little air thru. I can't get away with this on my cabin it is being inspected but till it is finished it will sorta be the same with out insulation on the ceiling. The difference will be the screened eves on the sides. Mark
I do not heat the buildings so there is little tempture change in them. The roofs are metal with plywood & tar paper under the metal. Both can be sealed off from the weather and the 2 story one is all the time but not my shop it has the garage door open 95% of the time. I have never had any mold, moisture ect problems in 12 years.
You know if I didn't heat I wouldn't need insulation. ???Yes but you need some insulation R-Factor under the metal to keep it from sweating and dripping inside the building. That is what my plywood and tar paper does it has a little R-Factor of insulation to stop this. So realy it is insulated a little not just R-38 like they want my cabin to be I am building. The inside of the building is warmer than outside when the sun hits the building, it warms up inside alot compaired to the outside air even in the winter. So condinsation can happen under the metal and the little R-Factor keeps the metal more constantly the same temp on both sides and will shed away any moisture that may happen. Mark
John belive it or not I got the first sheet on crooked. Despite my best effort I screwed it up. But I got things corrected after that. I only managed to get 5 sheets up before the snow hit though. I don't know if you can even buy Ice shield around here. I've never seen it used on a house around here. We have so little real snowfall, maybe 3-6" a year on average and a random 12-18" of snow ever 10 years or so. We've had less than 3" total this winter that stuck. I'll check with the roofing supplier and see what they have anyway since that sounds like a good idea.Scott on that first sheet put one nail it the center of the top or bottom edge and then line it up. You can rock it into place real easy to make it square. Mark
You make it sound easy Mark. But somehow when I'm trying to balance a sheet of wood, hold a hammer and a nail, keep from falling off the scafold and get the wood on straight something went wrong. d* But I did NOT fall off the roof, as instructed by my wife.OK you got me but if you screw two spaced out blocks of wood on the eve edge and start a nail in the sheet first you can slip the plywood up on the roof let it slide down to the blocks then tack the nail in. With the blocks holding the sheet lower than it needs to be you just line up the spot where the nail is right and nail it. Level the plywood perfict and nail it off. Then the rest of them go easy after that. By the time you get done with your roof you will have all kinds of ways to do it better. To bad we figure out all the easy ways by the end of the job! Mark
My closest Wal-Mart is 48 miles away... ...Someone told me once that the Walmart Plan was to have a store within 30 miles of each other.In town I have my choice of 5 Wal-Marts (4 of them Supercenters, 1 Neighborhood Market) within 10 miles!; 2 M west (the one we usually use), 6 M south, 10 M north, 6 M SW, 10 M south.
Thanks. I never liked house wrap either. I think it's one of those products that marketing made popular. Felt is time tested and proven to work. Yes it crinkles a little when it gets wet but it keeps the water out.I may be wrong here but the way it was explained to me felt does not breath but keeps water out. The house wrap will let air thru to breath but not the water molicules(air molicules are smaller then water). I have had the house wrap on my place for 13 years so far and I can see it on the attic end walls. It has not broke down, no moisture problems, no mold ect. I see no mold on walls on my home, no problem heating the home with 3 1/2 cords a year. I have no moisture problems inside my house. Some of the problems with house wrap may be that it was exposed to the weather/sun to long before cover? I do know that even 30 lb felt will wrinkel up, shrink back and pull off the stapples and lose it petrolium base in the sun real quick! The 30 lb felt I put down on my cabin roof went to crap in just a couple weeks before I had a chance to put the metal over it. It pulled loose from the stapples, wrinkled up and tore because it shrunk and pulled off the stapples all over the areas exposed to the sun. Mark
As for the wall itself I'm hoping to keep moisture out of the wall completly by having vapor barriers on both sides and making sure it's dry when it's closed up.
Interesting comments. Glen my wife insists I finish the siding so painting the felt is out. During the design process I looked at thousands of house photos online of nearly every style. The final design has a strong Japanese influence but it also has some northern Europe influences as well. The basic structure shell is really just a modified Victorias cottage without the wing added. It looked easy to build and efficent use of materials. But I also want a sort of holiday home look as well. Like going on some sort of permanent vacation. In the end its just a cabin but one with a slightly unusual and I hope interesting style. Thanks for the kind words.
I think I understand your question. The felt goes all the way down the wall to about 1" below the deck. There is a layer of 8" wide galvanized metal and 2 layers of #30 felt there. If that won't weather it in nothing will. The deck wood will shield the felt from the sun. Siding does not weather proof the wall the felt does. The deck is actually below the wall and floor and is attached to the foundation beams of the house. Siding will start at the top of the deck. The deck boards are spaced away from the house 3/4" to allow water to drain out below.OK I see what your doing now. I thought the felt was on the wall and the deck was also up the wall some. Is that 5K for the total project or just the deck part? Mark
That's total cost of building materials for everything. I've spent about $600 on the deck so far. I haven't included fuel yet which I guess I should but I doubt it's over a couple of hundred since I try to buy lumber on my regular trips to town. The cabin is only a 1/4 mile from my house so not much fuel use there.Well mine is around 165 miles round trip and that 1 ton only gets 10 MPG down hill! You got some good prices on your wood!!!! The next one I build I am going to design it myself to make maxium use of the wood to cut down on waste just to split up roofs ect. That Rhino Decking is big bucks for a deck next time it will be wood and low to the ground. Mark
That's total cost of building materials for everything. I've spent about $600 on the deck so far. I haven't included fuel yet which I guess I should but I doubt it's over a couple of hundred since I try to buy lumber on my regular trips to town. The cabin is only a 1/4 mile from my house so not much fuel use there.I went just thru my reciets and not including any wood other than for the sofets wood covering, rear deck and some cedar trim it was $4,580.00 total. This amount was for the complete rear deck, front porch planks, complete metal roof, all doors(and handles), all windows, cedar trim and paint. I think you will see yours go up when you do your doors, windows, trim and paint. These things seem to add up fast. I remember my framing package being cheap and plywood was only $980.00 but after a while it seems to snowball and add up quick. Mark
Oh I expect it will go up alot. My budget is $15k for the total project so I'm only 1/3 done.Your right on the cost per foot! That is one of the reasons my costs went up fast. I was buying 16 ft material when I needed 14 ft 2x10 rafters so no ends would have any splits. This made sure I would allways have good ends to work with. On my tall walls I used full length wood and 14 ft 2x6s start to add up. I allways tried to make all my plates full length and no breaks in them. All my floor joists were full length 18 ft and I could have made them 10 ft instead. I was going to sell my cabin with out any wall board up. My framing lumber had to look as good as trim wood, no way to hide any sins under sheet rock. All cuts had to fit perfect and no splits in the rafter tails or bird mouths. So each board was hand picked by me and there is a lot of select and #1s. Sometimes I would go thru 10 boards to get 1 real good one. Guess I am glad I did because a guy out of Canada who is a builder is buying my cabin. He said he liked being able to see the framing. His whole family if flying in to Oroville for me to pick up and take there. He is in love with it and is a avid hunter and fisherman. He said he will wrap it up the way he wants and it was just want he dreamed about getting. So it looks like another cabin is in the works for next spring! Mark
I'd have to go thru all the recipts to get a price list together but I can give some examples.
2x4x104 5/8 stud- $1.99
4x8 sheet 7/16 OSB- $5.35
2x6x16'- $8.00
2x8x10' treated- $8.39
Something to watch out for when shopping for lumber is price per foot for various lengths. The longest lengths are not always the cheapest per foot. For example a 2x6x10' treated is $5.79 a 2x6x12' treated is $8.55 and a 2x6x16' is $12.00 as you can see buying the wrong length will cost you more. The 10' board is the best value so when possible I used shorter boards. On the other hand the best price I got on 2x4 lumber other than studs was on 20' lengths for $5.19. I compared prices among several stores before each major purchace.
Mark that's great. I'm glad you found a buyer so quick. John those logs are rare and are bound to cost. Chestnut? I don't think they even make those anymore. I bet it's better quality than the original cabins where. You got a 100+ year place there for sure. If I'm lucky mine will last for 50.After the deal closes I am going to do a different thing. Not sure yet what but it will be different style building. I just wanted to see if my idea works for making a living then step it up a knotch on the pay as you build plan. Now I can re/invest into a bigger cabin next year. I want to beat the General Contractor rullings which save a lot of money in the long run. So I still need to build fast, get it on the market, still do fires for a few months and enjoy the whole winter being off work! This is my plan I have been doing it allready for 5 years, just figured a way to boost it in the spring some doing something I also enjoy. Mark
Scott, I notice your PT lumber looks different than my PT lumber. All of mine is dark brown and turns my hands red..Your's looks more like real wood.Pressure treated wood comes in different standards. Some is rated for weather resistance, ground contact, concrete contact, underground direct burial use ect. Some is treated for landscape use only and other for constuction use. Some has the treatment soaked on, other pressure appilied thru perferations. You need to read what the wood your buying is realy treated for and it's approved use. Most of the time there is a tag stapled to the wood and you can read what type of treatment and different treatments have different colors, ratings ect. Also not all treated wood is as good as some or can be used in all places, it depends on the treatment, ratings ect. Mark
I may set the record for the worlds slowest build. d*
Never take your wife to Lowe's with you.
(https://countryplans.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs1259.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii544%2FScottAarchive%2Fcp%2FMus-RND-PERN.jpg&hash=1b59a7b4c340dbeff6cf8ecf6b47ff18ab6f935d)
Here's the round window my wife picked out. It's a special order through Lowe's for $350
Your siding experiment is very appealing to the eye. [cool]I second that! It is making me change my thoughts on siding. Is it very labor intensive?
Looks like you are moving right along, Scott. 1/2 yet on the siding?
As contrasted with adjoining paper enclosures, Tyvek envelopes Nurtured mold
bloom of their contents. Glazed exhibit cases nurtured extensive mold as
contrasted with the condition of adjoining materials that were not cased.
Glazed wall mounted materials were also at high risk. In general, item
labeling on boxes or in tabular exposure, was more at risk for mold bloom
and damage than the enclosed items. We advised that soaked items should not
be spread out directly on polyethylene covered assembly platforms. A wicking
under-layment [such as tarpaper-felt GK] is needed to prevent an interface for mold bloom.
Glenn, Evernote.com I am addicted!
Looks real good Scott. I have to admit the window looks better than the backhoe.
400' is a tough distance.... It's close enough for you to see him read his newspaper in his underwear but too far to throw a rock at him. d*that is why God made slingshots... to solve such a problem as this.
Gable end looks good. Very nice detail work.
HG when we where kids we had hats and mittens.
They have hats and mittens, but they just don't have much to do... the back yard is a tiny little postage stamp with stockade fences. They go feed and water the dogs and play for a little while, but then they get cold (entire back yard is shaded and there's not enough room to run around and get warm, so fifteen to twenty minutes and they're knocking at the back door again.)HG when we where kids we had hats and mittens.
And health insurance...not that we were ever taken to the hospital unless something was definitely broken. Heck, I didn't even get to the hospital for a week after breaking my collar bone, cause grandma said, "you're just being a baby", and she'll never live that one down!
I love your house dude. You are doing an amazing job with the exterior. Love that rain screen siding. Gonna be a hard act to follow up on the interior though...what do you think, Irish immigrant style wood paneling everywhere (jab, jab, from a part Irishman)?
You forgot some siding on the front there.
3) Send everyone away so what comes out of your mouth doesn't upset people.
John are you talking about around the veranda door?
I'm planning to do the wall behind the woodstove and the visable piers with the veneer stone that home depot sells.
Thanks for the kind words everyone.
I got the plumbing in for the kitchen and laundry this week.
Have you ever seen venting at a sidewall?
Cieling got rocked this week.
I'm not going to wrap them with anything. They will get sanded stained a dark color and call it good. I have faith it will look fine.
I'm not sure what you mean about the flue. The flat cieling above the window is to deflect light back down into the room. I know I'm wierd but it works.
Eric she suggested I do it only a couple of hours at a time and take pain killers before I start.
I'm using 6 1/4" Fiberglass batts installed with the paper side up. I'm using nylon string stapled across the joists to keep it from falling out until I get the bottom skin on.
How did you solve the problem of the tile board not being straight anymore once it comes down over the extra thickness of the membrane?
It was our Anniversary.
It's so nice to just walk in and flick on a switch .....
looking good scott, is that all mahogany wood paneling?
I'm afraid that after I get the roof on the mother of all droughts will start!
do you have any trim detail planned for the seams and edges of the paneling?
I'm very curious about the OSB inside the house -- I've never seen that before. ???
I'm very curious about the OSB inside the house -- I've never seen that before. ???
That's because it's always hidden under something else. ;) Ya' never see it on the outside either, or at least you shouldn't. :o
The OSB is a backer for the mahogany veneer. The countertop will be stained concrete and the backsplash tile.
not to rush you, but when do we get to see the trim details with that paneling? My wife was looking over my shoulder, and saw the pics of your yet-to-be-completed cabinets and said, "I thought Bruce Willis would have real fancy cabinetry." She's always commenting about your profile photo. Looks good...I'm waiting...
Oh great. It's not like I don't already have enough pressure to finish this cabin. d*It's a popularity contest man! A popularity contest!!!! :-\
So now that you have poured the concrete counter top, would you do it again?
ScottA, I think your countertops look great. This is something I have interest in myself, and was wonderingif you could give us pros and cons on doing it yourself. And I know its alot to ask,but maybe a quick tutorial on how you did yours.
I put 1 coat of semi-gloss oil based polyurethane on the floor last weekend. The can says to put 3 coats on floors but I'll wait and do the other coats later. I think it looks pretty good so far. No warping or cracking to be seen yet. It says pretty warm in the loft so if it's going to move it should do so soon. My tile guy is comming in the morning to get started on the tile floors and kitchen backsplash. I'll be working on trim in the loft this week to stay out of his way as much as possible.
It also seems to have made the house quieter. Not sure why.
Scott, I've forgotten if you've mentioned this or not, are you going to live there full time?
What style of doors are you gonna use?Cabinet doors? Edge glued pine. Homemade.
what kinda drawer guides?
and one other question why did you go with the luon on the walls?
Scott, are you planing the wood down before you make cabinets or simply using stock material?
QuoteScott, are you planing the wood down before you make cabinets or simply using stock material?
Nope, just saw the boards and sand them. They are basic but look pretty nice.
This pics for Don.
(https://countryplans.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs1259.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii544%2FScottAarchive%2Fcp%2F3301011.jpg&hash=a5e0534b3cc743a0d2990c3331b7a963332f7989)
I see you got you one of those fancy West Va chandeliers over the medicine cabinet. I didn't know you could wall mount them too ? ;D
All I can say is WOW! Really looking good Scott. Now since you took a pic for Don,now you got to take one for Glenn, course that means you have to park the backhoe in sight :)
Scott, I'm starting to think about the trim. I like what you've done. Did you use the 1x3 pine that they sell at the big box stores? Do you plan to paint it or seal it in some sort of way?
Also, did you use the same type of wood on your face frames for the rails and stiles?
If you look back through the thread you'll find lots of pics and some discussion of the stairs. If you have a specific question feel free to PM me.
Scott, I'm so proud for you, your project is looking fantastic and turning out to be one of the neatest houses in the forum. Keep those pictures coming and I'll make sure to get in and comment each time I get the chance. ;D
A summer kitchens not a bad idea.
That just might be the issue....We have not figured out where to put the septic..Sucks living in 1 state and trying to get stuff done in another..
Hi,
We are new here. Forgive us for temporarily hi jacking your thread, but your Deer Run project is great and such an inspiration. Currently we are on page 11 of this thread and reading through the entirety. We have our 3 year plan in place for land and a small house (576 SF). We are looking forward to posting its progress as well.
Ron and Jan
Uppa Gumtree
No plans. Building it out of my head. ;)
No plans. Building it out of my head. ;)
I do that a lot. I call them "meat plans".
No plans. Building it out of my head. ;)
I do that a lot. I call them "meat plans".
I love to do that and it drives everyone else (the wife) nuts!
Scott what is the height inside the guest house?
Glad to hear you're ok - guess there were twisters all the way up to Minneapolis...
Unless you are like Glenn, I'd hire it out. It's a big job.
WHAT ARE YOU USING FOR A REGULATOR FOR YOUR PROPANE SET UP.
yikes! i dont think of earthquakes when I think of oklahoma... they happen often?
I have read scott that people are starting to figure out it might be the fracking thats disturbing the earth? Any thoughts?
I just read through this thread, start to present, in one sitting. Wow. This is probably the finest build I've come across in small houses and is a huge inspiration. Congratulations, Scott, and fantastic job.
OR it may be possible to so a redirect command on the server somehow that would redirect the image link to the new location. No idea how to do that myself.
All Pics will be removed at the end of the week. If you want them grab them while you can. Thanks Country plans it was fun. I'm going offline.
As Don says - looks like a manual reconstruct unless someone else knows something better - at least we have the critical info.