I'm going to use a 10' piece of prebuilt formica countertop on my base cabinets, and I'll need to cut it twice to get it to fit.
This has an integrated backsplash on it already.
How do I cut this stuff so that I don't tear / chip the formica surface?
How do I trim the ends of the counter and backsplash to not show the particle board substrate?
Here's why...
I have 11.5' of base cabinet, and will be buying a 10' stick of countertop to put on it. I plan on cutting out a section to accomodate my 22" wide RV stove / oven. I've built this oven into one of the sink bases.
The far left end of the countertop will butt up against the pantry wall. The far right end of the countertop will be exposed.
I want to place the factory ends of the countertop on either side of the stove top. I may trim the edges at the stove with some angle iron, unless somebody comes up with a better idea.
They make special laminate blades for your recipicating saw and the place you got your top usually have matching end caps.
Oops I forgot I picked up the blades and cap at lowes. Something else to think about if you havent already purchased your top alot of times you can make a pattern and take it to a local shop and have it made to fit just about as cheap and install it yourself.
Even with the laminate blades, I have used the blue masking (painters tape) where the cut is going to be. As for the backsplash and ends a router will do the trick. Flush cutting bit, the better the bit the better the cut. Hope this helps.
I have used the water based contact cement and not happy with the results. Make sure to use the stinky stuff in a well ventilated area.
Follow this link . . .
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html (http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html)
I always leave a little extra . . . And sand the end with my belt sander - With fine sandpaper. Finish the edge with a hand file.
Flip it over and cut it from the back with a regular circular blade , it's a PITA but it can be done. Support it well , hang the back-splash over the edge and cut it first , then do the main top. Screw on a straight edge so the saw doesn't wander , adjust the blade for about a 1/2" of blade sticking out as you make the cut. Figure that depth at the raised edge that generally is near the front edge of the pre cast top.
Sink holes can be done from the back as well if you can support the leading edge well to roll it over into place, you'll need help with flipping the top over, move together and smoothly as you do this task.
Good luck.
I have a special blade for my little Porter Cable circular trim saw. Basically it's a fine tooth blade like a plywood blade and it runs in "reverse". That is, the teeth do not grab the material being cut. I've also used some fine toothed sabre saw blades that also cut on the down stroke rather than the upstroke.