Hi all, got a qoute today for installing a metal roof at my cabin, its around 1300 square feet of roof on a fairly steep a-frame.
Anyways the quote was 11,800$ for removal of shingles and installation of roof and 2 vents.
I was hoping this was going to be around the 5-6 thousand range.
Well I just got 3 quotes for my house- 1450 sq. ft. of roof approx. with no tearoff - the guy who got the job was around 5200-5500 that includes foil/bubble insulation between existing roof and steel.
The big name quote, which I figured would be high, was around $12,000.......
Oh yeah, good material , in my opinion- McElroy Kynar 500 Max Rib 40 yr. warranty I think?
Metal roof pricing varies a whole lot when you are counting in the labor costs. It seems to depend on how hungry the roofers are, whether or not they are a big company with more overhead, or a small guy working out of his home, etc.
A few years ago we had quotes from the biggies up to $12.5K We found a roofer with a small Mexican crew who did out 1550 sq ft home, 4:12 pitch gable in 26 gauge ribbed metal for $7K. That included removing the old shingles, haul away and new underlayment.
Just for comparison; I did my own roof. 5:12 pitch covering 1700 sf. Materials were 26 gauge, K Panel, 40 year warranty. Total cost: $2200.
My neighbor is hiring out a roofover of a 4:12 two car garage apartment (approx 600 sf) with 29 gauge K Panel and getting a "family rate" price (the roofer is a relative). Roofer wouldn't tell me the "family rate" price, but said the regular price would be about $3500 for this size building.
The roof I'm working on has over $3500 of trim metal on it, all anyone can really say is "it depends". If the quote seems high shop around.
IIRC, I read somewhere that metal roof can go over shingles. I believe they advertise this at many sales places. The price for metal roofing around me is $76 a square. That would be $1000 for the roofing. Even if you add another $1000 for ridge vents, drip edges, flashing, etc., that should be the materials cost. So that comes to around $9000 for labor, equipment, and disposal. I would shop around.
A steep A-frame poses certain risks, but if it doesn't have any dormers, it doesn't seem like it would be that difficult to put it over top.
I agree - sounds high to me. Find material costs then double it for a rough guess on what might be a low end price for an A frame roof. Labor would be the big variable.
Hey guys, I'd just like to add that it is not a difficult job to install metal roofing yourself. Even on an A frame roof, if you have a couple of guys to help, it's not that difficult especially if the extended pitch of the roof ends on level ground so you can stand an extension ladder up flush on the roof. Then you order the material cut to exact length, one guy lifts it in place between two extension ladders with guys screwing in the screws to the purlins. It's been a couple of years since I did mine so I know costs have changed dramatically.
But, for a good guess, Glen is right on. Take the material cost and double it. If you get a bid much higher than that, get another bid.
There are a number of places you can get a material quote if you can generate it yourself. Down here we have a 'Metal Mart', a Muellers and Eagle Metals. And you'd be surprised at the difference in pricing between these three.
For me, I'd much rather install a metal roof than have to carry composition shingles up to the roof and put them on.
Okie Bob
Good point, BoB.
It is not that hard to do yourself. I and my crews (in the distant past) have done around 300 of them. They were on steel frame buildings.
I have done my 12/12 pitch garage metal roof using a forklift scaffold and staging built to the side of the building.
Well, the neighbor's roof is mostly on now. They put the 29 gauge metal down directly on top of the old comp shingles (but they did use one of those new fancy synthetic roofwrap products on top of the shingles).
What jumped out at me most noticeably is that everywhere they put in a screw, they dimpled the metal under the screw; makes it look like hail damage.
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Here's a little sideline info on all this. They told the customer they would prep the roof on Friday, August 29 and then roof it on Monday, Aug 31. When they first showed up Wednesday, Sep 2, I asked what had delayed them. They said the roofer's truck had burned over the weekend. So on Friday I asked what caused the fire, and the answer came back "his x-business partner". Of course I now had to know more. So, apparently, business owner and partner decide to split up. That night partner steals all the roofing equipment (apparently they had a lot). Owner files suit against partner the next week, and that weekend owner's truck burns. There's something more about a gasoline soaked rag (that didn't burn) found next to the burned truck and another sample of same material in bed of partner's truck, so we will see how this saga ends tomorrow when they return to finish.
Glenn/John - If this is all too far off topic, please feel free to remove, or contact me, and I will do so.
No problem Tony. You brought up another good point. If the roof/comp underneath is uneven or has voids it will dimple the sheeting especially if the screws are overtightened (past the point where the rubber washer bulges past the metal cap on it). There are depth sensitive screw guns that help prevent this but they are much more expensive than the clutch type drills.
Screwing the sheeting about a half inch up from the bottom point of the shingle course would minimize the dimpling also.
Likely 1x4 banding every 4 feet or so to screw to would keep the dimpling down. It is more expense and labor though.
The best price I could find for 40 year warranty metal roofing was $142 a square (green). This is the snap together stuff. Where are you getting these cheap quotes? That one was factory direct.
I think the 3' wide sheets that are not snap together will be the cheapest, but may not give the look you want. There is a manufacturer somewhere in the Portland area as my mom and dad got theirs there. Years ago so I don't know current pricing.
Quote from: n74tg on September 06, 2009, 09:03:06 AM
What jumped out at me most noticeably is that everywhere they put in a screw, they dimpled the metal under the screw; makes it look like hail damage.
That is why we chose to, (a) use 26 gauge (heavier metal), and (b) remove the old shingles.
BTW, our insurance (State Farm) gave us a 10% discount on the homeownwers policy, but only if the old shingles were removed before the metal was installed. And for the record, hail damage is not covered unless it affects the integrity of the roof.
What color or product would Hail Damage be less noticeable?
You got me on what color would be best to avoid showing damage best. ??? Possibly anything light in color. The heavier the gauge the better. Unless you'd want to go thin and hope the hail would penetrate the metal and get your a new roof ::) :o
My neighbor's dimpled roof is a medium blue/gray color; shows the dimples both in direct sunshine and in shade.
Also a follow up on what don said. A light reflective color will let you qualify for the new energy tax credit for 30% of the cost up to $1500.
Creative, As far as roofing prices I found better than that at Lowes. They sold it in white and green at $115 a square. You have to shop around in more rural areas, the big city Lowes I went to only carried asphalt. They could probably order it for you though.
Unfortunately, I've already paid half of the cost upfront. I will check on Lowe's, however. I did check Probuild and they cost $150 a square for the roofing I wanted.
Hey as far as the Energy Star thing, I bought dark brown and it says on my color selection chart that all "Kynar 500" colors are Energy Star compliant, which is every color on the chart. That's McElroy brand.