When making a 6x header over a window with 2-2x, is it necessary to put 2 1/2" blocking in between? I connected each one on each end of the 2x6 with it being hollow inside. If using blocking in between how is it done, spacing wise? This was not clear to me in the framing book?
Follow the same spacing as below the window to make your drywall fall on the centers as necessary. The purpose of the header is to support the load above so the blocking - cripples- is necessary to transfer the weight to the header then to the sides of the window to the jack studs - to the foundation
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/articles/anatomy-stud-framed-wall.aspx
A double 2x header in a 6" wall can be pushed to either the outside or inside of the framing depending on which side needs the nailing surface. This is the traditional way of building headers and then the space is filled with insulation.
The header I like best is made with a 2x on both the inside and outside with a 2.5" block of foam insulation in the header "sandwich". That gives nailing to both sides and provides R-10 or better insulation at the same time.
Here's a very sturdy example:
(http://www.taunton.com/CMS/uploadedImages/Images/Homebuilding/Tips/hb115tp03-01_lg.jpg)
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/tips/insulated-headers-for-cold-climates.aspx?nterms=61672,62960
What we do is nail the 2x's together and add a 2x6 on the flat under the header. The 2x's are held to the exterior side of the wall , giving nailing for sheathing , exterior window trim/ siding. The 2x6 on flat generally provides plenty of nailing on the interior for any window surround and trim.
Tha being said there may be details of interior trim that would require added backing, each job has it's own special needs. So if your using very wide casing you may want more backing.
This allows a 2 1/2" space to be insulated with batt insulation stripped down to the proper thickness. So all insulation can be done at the same time.
So no one needs to remember to pick up the foam insulation.
The foam does NOT get wet , as it's not used in my example. IF you use the foam and it does get wet it could promote mold growth. No foam , no mold a win, win.
2 1/2" of batt insulation will give a slightly higher R value, I think , and is cheaper than the foam.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/July268.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/apr144.jpg)
The other deal is the members are nailed together reducing the chance of warping , and common sense would say to 2x's nailed together would be stronger than 2 each , 2x's separated by a 2 1/2" space.
Edited to add the second photo.
Guess I read that one wrong - or thought of it wrong. I was thinking down from the top plate. d*
Quote from: glenn kangiser on October 05, 2008, 09:25:17 PM
Guess I read that one wrong - or thought of it wrong. I was thinking down from the top plate. d*
My second header is spaced down from the top plate, with cripples above as well as below the window sill. A header does not necessarily HAVE to be tight to the under side of the sub plate. High walls such as the ones in John's plans that accommodate the let in ledger would all most always have header that was NOT up tight to the sub plate.
Thanks, PEG -- I guess if I stretch my imagination I could have been right but I think he meant more like you guys posted after reading it better.
Quote from: glenn kangiser on October 05, 2008, 10:15:12 PM
Thanks, PEG -- I guess if I stretch my imagination I could have been right but I think he meant more like you guys posted after reading it better.
Your welcome. I just thought I'd make it more clear for folks. Some times the more we say/ write the more confusion we create :-[
The pictures , I'm sure , help more than the text.