I was planning on using this bracket to attach the beams to my concrete piers. I poured 10'" piers and the built up beams will be 3 2x10's with plywood in between. I was going to use this type of bracket to attach them or 5/8 all thread with a steel plate on the top. The all thread would go through a steel plate that is on top of the beam and then down into the center of the pier by at least 8" and would be epozyed in. What do you thin would be better? Thanks Pete
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If the plate is flat it seems there would not be a way to attach it to the beam - unless it extended past the peir.
PEG688 suggested the all thread way. Here is what was suggested
"Well with no code to meet and what you've described is a solid post and pier setup , I'd epoxy into the pier a piece of Galv. threaded 5/8 rod into the concrete at least 8 " that sticks up at least 1" above the beam tops ( if it's to long you can cut it off , the projecting rod , later with a sawsall) then you could use a piece of steel bar stock 1/4 thick and as wide as you built up beam , so a 1/4"x 5 1/2" x 5 1/2" steel washer at each post to beam connection."
PEG knows what he is talking about - he is talking about putting the all thread all the way through the beam for the connection with an inch above for the nut.. I'd do that.
I was assuming the plate was on the bottom. We have talked about adjustable anchors also - could work with a nut - top and bottom and 2 plates I think.
Looks like he recommends a full size plate washer on top.
Thanks. That answers my question. Could you answer another one for me. I posted it in the Plan Support section. I bought the 20x30 1.5 story plans. I have the piers done and will be starting to frame soon. I'm using a steel beam down the center which will rest on several piers. The beams on the outside will be 3 2x10's with plywood. The distance between each pier is roughly 7'6". Is it ok to attach the joists to the outside beams instead of placing them on top?? The joists will then go across to the steel beam. I will sister the joists together over the beam. The joists will only be spanning 10 feet. I understand the rest of the subfloor and wall framing. I have done that before. I have never done the roof trusses or gable end walls. The plans show site built trusses using 2x6x16's. I plan on making the loft a complete floor. Can I use bigger rafters, 2x8x16's and not have to sister anything to it like it shows in the plans? I will then add collar ties to the rafters.
We have talked about this a bit before. I'm a steel guy but do some of this stuff and try to keep up if possible. PEG has mentioned more squeaking - movement etc. if hanging from hangers but I have never heard that it can't be done.
Aside from the other answers in plans support I think John will give you on opinion shortly- must be out of touch or time - he or PEG would be best on that.
Quote from: peteh2833 on June 29, 2008, 09:03:59 PM
#1: Thanks. That answers my question.
#2: Is it ok to attach the joists to the outside beams instead of placing them on top??
#3: The joists will then go across to the steel beam. I will sister the joists together over the beam.
#4: The plans show site built trusses using 2x6x16's. I plan on making the loft a complete floor. Can I use bigger rafters, 2x8x16's and not have to sister anything to it like it shows in the plans? I will then add collar ties to the rafters.
#1: ya what Glenn said all thread epoxied into the concrete pier say 6 or 8 inchs. Then a square bearing plate washer the 3"x3" type on top or let in along with the bolt so it doesn't stick up and get in the way of your sub-flooring and wall plates.
#2: Ya you can hang the joist , the ones that squeak are the top flange hangers for engineered "I" joist. Avoid those if possible , put a dab of const adh. on the hanger it helps some with squeaks.
#3: I'd drop that steel beam down by 1 1/2" and bolt a wood plate on it or two so you can toe nail your joist down to the wood , if your right on the steel you'll have attachment issues.
#4: I don't follow that and it would be a long answer so John's got that one. To much work to answer it for me.
G/L PEG
Wood on top the steel -- I see it all the time yet you had to think of it PEG. I'm brain dead. I guess that's why you get the big bucks. [crz]
(Actually everyone volunteers to help people here and PEG puts in overtime at it -- for free. We couldn't afford it if we had to pay him. Thanks again, PEG).
Once again - no guarantees --- just people helping people to beat their own little part of the system.
John had a good point on the outer beams being hung of the beams on the other thread . About a flush beam blocking the any plumbing , wiring , etc that might want to go down into the crawl space.
So more brain dead action so your not alone Glenn.
I knew there had to be a purpose for architects. d*
Thanks for the answers PEG. The piers for the steel beam are already poured so the height is set. I was just going to sister them at the beam and then use blocking in between them. I could use a smaller beam but I'm getting one for free from my Uncle. Thanks. Pete