I am contemplating putting 1x6 or 1x8 T&G on the ceiling of the cabin I will begin as soon as spring actually arrives here in Alaska----have very little experience with this material. Is it best to start at the ridge beam and work down or vice versa? Any tricks of the trade for the transition at the wall? Any other advice gratefully received. When done right these ceilings can be really cool---done wrong will no doubt result in expensive and ugly ceilings. My ceiling will be 24X24 and 12/12 with 12' sidewalls so it will be rather high even in the loft area. I assume I will need to use prefinished material or learn to love staining/finishing over my head. This is certainly the best of the best building forum around---I am constantly amazed at the breadth of experience here and the generosity with which it is shared. Will definitely share pictures and successes (also my inevitable aw shits) as I tackle what will be for me an ambitious project-----1296 sq ft of 1 1/2 story including 480 sq ft of porch and balcony.
Well dried - PEG knows about proper moisture content -- I'm not that smart.
It seems natural to me to start at the bottom and work up. Just figure to add nice trim at the edges and center be it flat or fancy.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/ChamberceilingApril27th3.jpg)
Generally start at the lower wall , your 12/12 = 45 Deg. angle snap a line on the rafter to lay the tongue to , cut off the groove edge to a ( as much over 45 deg) angle as you can. I other words set you (preferably table saw to the max angle it will go to / make sure the saw gears and trundle area are clean / free of saw dust , etc to achieve max angle ).
You mention a 12" knee wall I assume , will it be T&G ? If so I'd do the ceiling board first (with the angle cut as above ) then I'd do that last / top most board again with the angle , this way the joint is the most covered / least seen / angle up into that small corner area / least visible way to see the cut.
Blind nail the T&G thru the T&G with a finish nail gun for best results / speed.
Remember to insulate the rafter bays , vent the resulting roof properly etc etc .
This post should be a good start to many questions.
The last few boards may need to be face nailed .
Glenn mentioned MC , yes get the materails dried out and more importantly acclimated to the final "most normal temp. / dryness" if your heating with wood , this will be the hardest part , waiting for the two extremes to sort of equal out / find a happy place.
G/L PEG
Peg
Your Work? Looks good. I like how its neat no moulding I prefer to do that my self.
Mike
Quote from: mvk on April 20, 2008, 10:47:41 AM
Peg
Your Work? Looks good. I like how its neat no moulding I prefer to do that my self.
Mike
Ya , I hate trim strips , I avoid them when ever possible. It takes a lot of planning , but they (trim strips) can ALMOST ALWAYS be avoided.
Like one of my buddies once said , " Sneakers and shorts belong on women and kids , not on job sites , worn by carpenters!" I'll add "Trim strips are for women and kids , not for carpenters!"
Harsh eh !
I'm not that bad :-[ ,,,,,,,,,,,,,usually ,,,,,,,,,,,,, :-[ I just hate trim strips >:(, they look un-workmen like ::), usually. They do in rare cases have some LIMITED usefulness, NOT OFTEN! :)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/ChamberceilingApril27th4.jpg)
Yes prefinish it , I forgot that , well and other stuff , but eh only so much can fit in one post. d*
If your staining the T&G, do it before installation and stain the entire top of the tongue. Otherwise when the wood shrinks you will see unstained lines at the joints. I also recommend a linseed oil/stain like Velvet oil for speed of finishing. You can brush or roller it on, wipe it down in 10 minutes, wait a couple hours for it to dry and put it up.