I've been back to read Peg's tips so many times the pages are starting to wrinkle! I was hoping he would be rested up enough
that he could continue that theme and maybe show us some stairway trim ideas or maybe even some fireplace trim ideas????
I've been working on my stairs way too long, it is a much bigger job than I would have ever thougth. But, it's coming along and I'll have pics when I finish, after the first of the year, I guess.
I did pick up a trick worth passing on. I can't recall where I saw this, might have been 'Fine Homebuilding' or one of those mags.
Take a roll of was paper, cut it into two pieces. Then as I put up a trim piece that will need stain, I slip the wax paper under that piece prior to nailing it in place. Then I can stain it without fear of coloring out of the lines! Works great and so much easier than trying to keep my old hands steady enought not to have stain all over the floors and walls!
Come on Peg...or Glenn, show us some new tricks!!
Okie Bob
That wax paper thing would work fine.
I used to stain and finish coat the long pieces, 16 footers usually, in the garage. Depending on type of wood the use of a pre-stain is recommended to avoid splotchiness (sp). Then with an sharp 80 tooth fine cutting blade on the miter saw I'd cut and fit the trim. Some corners I'd use a coping saw with a sharp fine toothed blade to cut a contour on the end of one to mate with the machined surface of the other piece. Nailed with a finishing air nailer and filled the tiny nail holes with a colored filler. Seldom ever had to do any touch up.
Re the fireplace: what are you up against / trying to do?
BoB, I am not the finest carpenter in the world, but I think I could show you how to build a stairway with a chainsaw, an air nailer and 1 inch plywood. I'd probably get us both kicked out of the house though.
I didn't realize anyone read those old threads :-[ Guess I should write down the # of looks to see if theres been much interest.
So what do you need help with Bob?
I was in woodstock, GA Sunday looking at the trim in the 400-750,000 price range at
http://www.hedgewoodhomes.com/
We talked with the architecture, he uses 12 inch high painted MDF board with a cheap trim on top of it as the baseboards. It looked fantastic, but really low tech.
Glen, get that chainsaw out of my house! Oh, wait, that was my wife screaming there.
Peg, I think I have all your pics and comments memorized by now so at least one somebody has been looking
often and hoping to see more.
If you guys could go to my blog http://www.bobdanaslakehouse.blogspot.com/ the first pic is what I've got going so far.
But, it looks pretty plain and I have no clue where I'm going from there. The newell posts have me completely baffeled. My plan
is to use a round handrail at the top of each section and run cable in 4" intervals on down to the bottom of each section. How do I
attach the handrail to the newell posts? On the flat sections, I have an idea but on the angled ones, not a clue. Once the newell posts are finished, how do I attach the top end of each handrail? The bottom angle I can come in horizontal to the stairs and screw the handrail to the newell post. But at the top, I'd have to have a screw hole on the top of the rail.
Mtn Dan, on the fireplace, if you scroll down my blog you'll see what it looks like now. I have the fireplace insert installed and actually operational. I want to hang a flat panel tv above the fireplace and I thought about using fake stone from the floor up to the bottom of the tv. But, that doesn't really sound too good to me now that I can see what it's looking like. Any ideas?
Okie Bob
Pix look great BoB, but I better let PEG provide the guidance as I walk away, chainsaw in hand. Not even my little 18V Ryobi one? hmm
I don't have a picture, so I'll try a word picture.
The fireplace at my inlaws retirement community was redone a few years ago and I really like it. It's constructed much like yours, but wider. They used natural stone. It looks like sandstone flagstone material that were cut into about three inch wide pieces of assorted lengths. Thickness is about 1 1/2 inches or so. I did not see the work in progress but it has the appearance of dry stack, but it is not. Must be cemented/glued to the wall behind the stone. Where the stone work stops above the fireplace there is a thick rough sawn pine mantle that wraps around the corner.
Fred is working on a house near here and they are doing a remodel including covering the old brick fire place with real local slate. I didn't take a picture of the fireplace but here is a column that is the same pattern as it is.
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/P1000713.jpg)
You do remember Fred, don't you, BoB? hmm
Nice mix with different orientations of the slate. :)
Quote from: Okie_Bob on December 12, 2007, 10:36:54 AM
#1: Mtn Dan, on the fireplace, if you scroll down my blog you'll see what it looks like now.
#2: I have the fireplace insert installed and actually operational.
#3: I want to hang a flat panel tv above the fireplace and I thought about using fake stone from the floor up to the bottom of the tv. But, that doesn't really sound too good to me now that I can see what it's looking like.
Any ideas?
#1: It's Mtn DON , Bob . ;)
#2: Maybe a heath would look good out in front on the floor. Is that the flooring that cupped ? That was your place right Bob?
I think with that bumped out chase I'd stay away from the total stone wrapped look , it will be to wide looking sticking out off the wall like that.
Some either simple stone or tile about 8 to 10 " exposed on the sides and about 12 to 16 " above would look nice. The tile could just have a simple brass edge border run around it , or maybe a simple wood stain grade or MDF paint grade mantal .
(http://bp2.blogger.com/_H6qGB4uaW1E/RzDV0oheUhI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/45dUeCrQm38/s320/10-28-2007+019.jpg)
I did post this paint grade mantel here I think .
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Oct520072.jpg)
I have some const. photos of this one I could post if they'd help.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Sept1720076.jpg)
#3: With that bump out a simple 4 x 8 type flat simple mantel shelf only with the brass edged , or some how finished edged tile or stone might look better.
Anyway theres a start on what you might / could do, what do you or more importantly does the boss think of those options?
Quote from: Okie_Bob on December 12, 2007, 10:36:54 AM
#1: But, it looks pretty plain and I have no clue where I'm going from there.
#2:The newell posts have me completely baffeled.
#3:My plan is to use a round handrail at the top of each section and run cable in 4" intervals on down to the bottom of each section. How do I
attach the handrail to the newell posts?
#4: On the flat sections, I have an idea but on the angled ones, not a clue.
(a) Once the newell posts are finished, how do I attach the top end of each handrail?
(b) The bottom angle I can come in horizontal to the stairs and screw the handrail to the newell post.
(c) But at the top, I'd have to have a screw hole on the top of the rail.
#5: Any ideas?
#1: Well your gonna finish it of course :)
#2: Are those your finished newels ?? They look like PT / const grade / SYP 4x4 ???
(http://bp1.blogger.com/_H6qGB4uaW1E/R0HmrNMm05I/AAAAAAAAAXw/cS9EWhmoELA/s320/11-18-2007+005.jpg)
(http://bp3.blogger.com/_H6qGB4uaW1E/R0HmqtMm04I/AAAAAAAAAXo/V7l-n-piPVY/s320/11-18-2007+004.jpg)
If they are your planned newels they need a lot of TLC :o , maybe more than that ::) You could build slip on newel covers I guess , do you have a photo of what you'd like it to look like?
I don't follow the "round rail look on top" . Generally a round rail is mounted on brackets made for that diameter hand rail, generally purchased from stair rail company like Johnson and Postmen . Goggle" hand rail manf." / stair systems / stair parts etc and see what you get, then pick a type and we can talk about specific type rails.
A rail on top is generally referred to as " Over the post" rails that go post to past are called just that, "post to post" the stair companies have all sorts of double lag , double machine type connectors , some work better than others so pick a couple and again we can talk about specific types pros and cons .
There's also a lot of cable rail companies out there as well , I've onlt done one or two cable rails and they where exterior type systems , they could be used indoors IF a guy liked that look , so that's a MMV type thing.
I'll skip right to five as I think I touched on the ones in between already ::)
Here's a few links to stairs and stair parts ,
http://www.stairpartsusa.com/Stair_Parts_Newels_s/4.htm
http://www.stairpartsusa.com/Stair_Parts_Newels_s/6.htm
http://www.stairpartsusa.com/Stair_Parts_Handrail_6115_Handrail_s/157.htm
http://buystairparts.reachlocal.net/
http://www.johnsonpostman.com/index.htm
Yo Bob , you in there????
So what ya think , to much info???
HELLOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooo Bob! [noidea' [noidea' ???
As I remember, I think BoB went to the lake but you can bet he'll check in as soon as he gets back. :)
Yep, Glenn, I went to the lake and just got home last night to find my a/c out and it's cold here now.
Anyway, I'll have some more up to date pics as soon as I can download them to my blog.
Peg, you are right, the posts shown in the pics you have are just std 4"X4" and now have covers over them. They are very plain
and I stained a few on the bottom yesterday afternoon just to see how they look, not sure if I got more pics after staining.
At any rate, I think my stairs question has worked it self out and I can live with it. Only question remaining is how I attach the
round wood rail on between the newell posts, especially the ones on angles. Believe Peg has left me with a few links I'm going to go try and hopefully will solve that problem as well.
I'm sorry guys that it sometimes takes me a few days to respond but, I do read everything as soon as I can. When at the lake, I have no internet access. And I'm planning on spending a bunch of time down there between now and the new year.
Glenn, I'm sorry to say I don't remember Fred. But, I know the fake stone he used and probably the same stuff Mtd Don referred to as well. I found a company real close to me that makes and installs the stuff. He must have about 25 different stone types. Don't know what it is made out of but, it looks very much like the real thing and weighs much less and looks very easy to install. He quoted me
$4.85 per sf for material or would install for $12 sf complete, materials included. If I do like Peg suggested, I'd only be using about 30 sf so it would be less than $400 if he installs it for me. (I'm getting anxious to get this thing finished now and entertaining farming things out if the cost is realistic.)
Again, thanks for all the responses and forgive me the delays in responding back.
Okie Bob
No problem, BoB. Hope you had a good time.
On Fred's job they used the real slate from the local quarry. It looks great.
Glenn, I don't know of anything that is fake that looks as good as the original. Well, maybe!
If I had access to natural slate at no cost, you can bet you'd see a lot of it in my projects.
Anyway, I did upload some new pics with last weeks progress. Sure does seem to go slow.
I checked out all the links Peg left for stairway parts but, still did not see what I need to attach
the round railing to the newell posts. Even where the rails run straight, I'm not sure how to attach
them to the wall or the newell postgs and the ones that follow the angle of the stairs, I'm at a total loss.
I did see some strange screws, ones with wood thread on one end and metal threads on the other. But, my
post are too thick ( 6 3/4" ) to use them. Sure could use some ideas on this.
BTW, you may recall other discussions about my floor cupping? Well, the same material is what I used
on the stair tread along with the bullnose trim piece along the edges of each tread.
Also, a quick comment on another previous discussion. I put off trimming out the stairway to the very last simply
because I didn't have a clue how to do it. This has happened to me many other times too. It is really strange how
things sort of automatically start to take shape in your mind if you give them enought thought. I've worried myself almost
sick on how I was going to trim these stairs and almost called a trim carpenter I know to see if he would give me a bid to do
it for me. But, I kept going back to Peg's post on trim and looking at the pictures he left and somehow the fear of the job
started evaporating. I had ordered the bullnose trim with the flooring so I had something to start with and I had put the 4x4 newell raw posts up knowing I had to have them. And it was amazing how once I got started every morning and sitting and looking at what
I could do, one piece at a time sort of came to me as the logical way to put it all together. Now, I'm sure there are much better ways to trim stairs and my way is far from professional but, I'm damn proud of the way it has turned out and not the least embarrased to
show people that come over. Actually, they are so prominent it is one of the first things people comment on. Anyway, John I believe has a tag on his signature that says something about sitting and visualizing what you plan to do each day and I'm a firm believer that if you can see it in your minds eye, you can probably build it given enough time to figure out a way.
Okie Bob
Glenn, I guess that was your comment about working from the general to the specific that I like!
I forgot to leave my blog address in case anyone wants to see the latest pics.
http://bobdanaslakehouse.blogspot.com/
Okie Bob
Bob post a photo or link of the rail you want to use . We'll see what we can come up with . Will the rail be between the post ? Or as your saying on TOP of the post . I'm not following that part of it.
Those connectors with the lag (wood ) screw on one end and a machine thread on the other you drive the lag into the post and bore two holes one in the end grain to slip the rail into and one directly underneath to access a star type nut that you turn by pushing on the star coggs that pulls the rail tight to the newel then you put a wood plug over that hole.
If you need a bracket google bar hardware they sell round holed brackets made for brass bar rail , you'd have to find a bracket the same diameter as your wood railing.
Hopefully this helps , or will when all the piece fit together in your mind puzzel. Or you show us the round rail .
The stair looks pretty good so far I checked out your new photos .
Good job 8) Keep the faith bro! It all takes time !
Rail bolts ,
(http://www.stairpartsondemand.com/images/wpe02851.jpg)
(http://home.earthlink.net/~fksindinc/images/railboltwrench.jpg)
This bracket would attach to a round rail .
(http://www.vandykes.com/images/products/02258343-sm.jpg)
(http://www.vandykes.com/images/products/02009652-sm.jpg)
Link on the last two : http://www.vandykes.com/subcategory/36/
Thanks Peg, really appreciate all your help.
Yep, the top rail is round with a flat on the bottom. It is 1 3/4" OD. I want to put it between the newell post and the wall and the newall post and the next newell post. The two newell posts are several steps apart putting the rail at an angle. I can visualize the bracket you talk about as what I need to hold the rail where it is not angled. But, with the angle, I guess I can try to visually line up a 1 3/4 wood bit and try to drill an angled hole. Problem is I don't know how I'd get the rail into the newells since they are already installed and don't have much play or wiggle room!
I understand the screw/lag bolt you picture and that would work for a smaller newell. But, again, mine are 6 3/4" outside square. Could have done that had I known before I put the newell post cover on permanent.
Anyway, I'm taking your suggestion to see if I can google bar hardware and come up with something.
Went to pick up my bullnose material to finish up the stairs at lunch time. As usual, they had barely stared it and it was due yesterday!
Course it was promised yesterday! Story of my life.
You'll get it, one thing at a time, BoB.
If your rail is inside the posts and on the wall you could use something like these.
Handrail Brackets (http://houseofantiquehardware.com/s.nl;jsessionid=0a0002491f435d1e6a43eb5f45c3b5a694da36a37db1.e3eTaxmKbNaNe34Pa38Ta38Ra3v0?it=A&id=2834)
(http://houseofantiquehardware.com/core/media/media.nl?id=2221&c=411534&h=dbb023d86a4819c9a789)
Between the posts is a different problem. I'll re-read your posting and try to think of something too.
I think you need to drill and counter sink screw holes on top outside - wood plug and sand if desired and underneath on the bottom -dont try to set it into the newel posts - just make good cuts at the proper angles and have a good fit. I'll sketch it and post it - unless PEG has a better idea.
Actually looks like he may have posted some better ideas I didn't see.
May not be a good idea but here it is anyway.
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/rail.jpg)
Commercial code requires it to run continuous from the landing to lower level bottom with no posts in between so we run it inside. Houses may be different.
As for residential code, for what's it worth...
Click this link...
IRC2003 (http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=2590.0)
Once there follow John's link, select chapter 3, download and scroll to section R311.5.6 on handrails.
Here is most of it.
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/seattlehandrails.jpg)
Quote from: glenn kangiser on December 18, 2007, 05:09:41 PM
May not be a good idea but here it is anyway.
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/rail-1.jpg)
Actually not bad Glenn [cool], it can be improved on though. Can you put numbers beside the fasteners ? it would be easier to understand what I'll try to say if each connector had a #. But if not I'll start at the bottom and try to describe what fastener and how so the bottom will be # 1 and I'll work up the stair with a sequence of how I'd do it.
I'll start here with this photo because I think your hand rails may fall more like this photo than the sketch Glenn made , if so you can see the Alaskan Yellow Cedar plug I used to cover the lag screw I used , you could do a similar thing , you'll have to think about the angle and length of your fastener to be sure it doesn't go right thru the railing.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/sept17011-2.jpg)
If it's like that you can just go right thru the post into the rails.
IF your rails line up like Glenn's sketch start by dry fitting every thing , use quick clamps and blocks to hold things together , yes this part is hard a real PITA. I have two jigs that hold my rail parts , I'll see if I can load some photo's of those , but for one stair they'd be a lot of work , and you can do it with a bunch of quick clamps , that's what I used to do before I say a article in FHB a couple of months ago where I saw those jigs . So see I'm still learning as well ;)
At the wall fastener #4 (if we get numbers ) you could use a rosette , screw thru the rosette after you dry fit everything first, then like I said screw thru the rosette than attach the rosette to the wall . YOU DID OF course PUT BACKING IN THE WALL right? If not d* d* continue until tired :)
Then lag screw thru the newel into the other end of the guard rail .
Next attach the handrail thru the post at #2 , go under the guardrail , again being careful not to go thru the rails with the end of the lag.
#1 Can be screwed as shown .
I'll see what I can do, PEG. :)
Quote from: glenn kangiser on December 18, 2007, 09:37:05 PM
I'll see what I can do, PEG. :)
Thanks Glenn [cool]
So :
#4 would go thru the rosette into the guardrail end .
#3 would go thru the newel again into the guardrail end .
#2 would go thru the newel , under guardrail bolt #3 into the angled cut handrail.
#1 would go under the handrail into the newel post and would be a shorter lag or maybe a stout screw .
So your only fasteners you'd have to plug would be the screws that screw the rosette to the wall and maybe lag # 2 that's under the guard rail.
Now Glenn can you move or reverve your screws ??
What did you draw that with ? Sketch-up?
One day I gotta figure that out, when I'm not busy ::)
(http://bp2.blogger.com/_H6qGB4uaW1E/R2eyyomfswI/AAAAAAAAAZY/pr3mZQJgKVc/s320/12-18-07+008.jpg)
This one might be a problem as your newel ( the top of the stair right hand one as we're looking at it in the photo ) appears to be out of line with that wall at the top of the stair. Maybe a 3/4 newel , , that wraps the D/W corner some how could work, instead of a rosette? ???
I can erase and re-label - things like that, PEG.
I use MS Paint --- the simple little program on everybody's Microsoft Windows computer go to Start/all programs/accessories/paint. This is the program Mark Chenail did his award winning 200 sf house project in. You can save as a Jpeg also to make it just like a picture - uses low file space. After that load it to Photobucket same as a picture.
No fancy stuff like the big programs makes it easy to use pretty quickly as long as precision isn't a problem.
Oh - I see - you want me to make it like your description. hmm. I'll try to do it and post below.
How about this, PEG? hmm
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/rail2.jpg)
Ya if you can , Bob will see it easier I think that way.
My laptop doesn't have a "paint' option , I followed your prompts , but no paint under accessories. Maybe the Dell (our other puter)has it
[noidea'
Quote from: glenn kangiser on December 18, 2007, 10:49:19 PM
How about this, PEG? hmm
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/rail2.jpg)
Man your fast [shocked]
That's it ! Of course Bob's rail might no be exactly the same , but that shows a few different options . And shows how to cover your tracks so to speak with covering the fasteners.
Hopefully he has some backing in the walls , most folks never think about that , at least soon enought rofl
Can you add the rosette at the wall?? :-[ Maybe asking to much :-[
Arrrrrr-- I thought the rosette went into the rail -- that's the little black thing --- It goes into the backing? hmm -- I picture it as something that drives into a hole and locks - I assumed the lag screwed into the wall -- guess I'm screwed up? [crz]
Remove the countersink note too?
The rosette is a fancy block , the guard rail could be screwed thru a block like those and then the block gets screwed to the wall. So the block is at the end of the rail like a "T" sort of . I really feel like I'm about to this point [frus] , not with you but with my inability to discribe what I'm saying d*
(http://www.crownheritage.com/images/products/accessories/rosettes.jpg)
Sorry I think everyone knows these things , heck I can't remember NOT knowing I've been doing this so long d*
The countersink note is still good . In fact add it at the #2 screw location , as that screw would show IF that ends up being how Bob's rail is.
This is a good online stair booklet , I'll add this to my favorites for later reference. [cool]
http://www.coffmanstairs.com/information.htm
Rosette on a wall hung rail:
(http://www.coffmanstairs.com/basic7.jpg)
Rosette angle handrail:
(http://www.coffmanstairs.com/choices/rosette.jpg)
1/2 newel:
(http://www.coffmanstairs.com/choices/half_newel.jpg)
Lil booklet ,
http://www.coffmanstairs.com/stair-building-guide/index.html
Cool, PEG -- I didn't know what the rosette was -- I thought it was something to hold the screw - that funny looking washer thing. All of my handrails weld to a post or wall or something -- hmm
Not a problem, PEG --- I just was not familiar with the terms and too lazy to look them up.
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/rail3.jpg)
Hey guys, great job, you really put a lot of time into this for me and I really do appreciate it! Believe it or not, I
totally understood what Peg was talking about from the get go but, do appreciate the dwg too. I even figured out
what he meant by 'rosetta' from how he described putting it up. Actually, that is what I had concluded was the way
to go. I made some when I installed my rail around me deck. Only, mine weren't fancy, just square oak blocks with correct
hold size drilled through them and then screwed onto the post.
So, now what I'm planning is to go ahead with that for the flat rail ends and I am going to try to drill at an angle for the
angled ones and see how that works. I am using cable instead of ballasters so I plan to install a 1X3 piece of wood vertical
where the ends end and the 'rosetta' will go at the top of this with the cable eye screws falling at 4" increments below the rail
I wasn't sure this would be a good idea in the house but, you guys have pretty much belayed my fears since this is idential to
your description.
I'm heading to the lake this afternoon and will return late Sun or Monday sometime. I'll be home for Christmas and then later Christmas day head back for another week. Hopeing to get a lot finished! And now I feel so much more comfortable what what I had planned to do.
Glenn you and Peg ought to charge for your services!!! But, I guarantee if you get to my neck of the woods I'll have a big ole tub of
cold brew and a nice fire outside in the firepit and we can drink and tell lies all night if we want!
Thanks again,
Okie Bob
Quote from: Okie_Bob on December 19, 2007, 11:30:37 AM
Glenn you and Peg ought to charge for your services!!!
Ya we should and do,,,,,,,,,,,, just not here ;D
Have a great Christmas Bob happy I / we could help .
PEG speaks for both of us, BoB.
I overcharge on my real job so I can donate time and share info with my friends on CountryPlans. Have a good trip, BoB-- see you soon.
Quote from: glenn kangiser on December 19, 2007, 09:53:53 PM
I overcharge on my real job so I can donate time and share info
I hope with your adminstrator powers your able to BLOCK Bruce and Michelle , is it with two L's or one ???, the bigger house project folks , maybe not Bruce ??? but you know who I mean.
So do they know you "over charge" rofl rofl [scared] [scared]
Maybe this one , :-X God some days I crack me up rofl rofl
Quote from: glenn kangiser on December 19, 2007, 09:53:53 PM
I overcharge on my real job so I can donate time and share info with my friends on CountryPlans.
Where's the foot in mouth smiley?
Quote from: MtnDon on December 19, 2007, 10:28:20 PM
Where's the foot in mouth smiley?
John put a stop to all that fun ::)
Glenn may have to 86 both of us Mtn D as well both have his , ah , shall we say Fopar(sp) rofl rofl
Quote from: PEG688 on December 19, 2007, 10:25:34 PM
Quote from: glenn kangiser on December 19, 2007, 09:53:53 PM
I overcharge on my real job so I can donate time and share info
I hope with your adminstrator powers your able to BLOCK Bruce and Michelle , is it with two L or one , the bigger house project folks , maybe not Bruce ??? but you knwo who I mean.
So do they know you "over charge" rofl rofl [scared] [scared]
Maybe this one , :-X God some days I crack me up rofl rofl
You Guys---it's Mike and Michele -- I overcharge on regular jobs so I can work for Mike at 1/2 price--appx.
Actually it's not overcharging -- I was speaking of a job I'm on which is prevailing wage --so I take advantage of it and charge the public what they have legislated that I must charge them - to keep the union boys happy - and all the union watchdogs they hire to hassle guys like me. It really makes me mad that I can't give the public a fair price-- but I don't write the laws-- makes me feel I'm overcharging myself.
Mike still gets about 30% off my regular price and he knows that as I use his job for fill in work -- so I'm, covered. I give other locals a break also. I only pillage and plunder when I go out into the real world. :P
Dang , >:( he may have talked his way out of the corner Mtn D :-\
Glenn , you should run for public office, you could sell poop to a septic pumper, or some such ??? ???
It may be poop to you, but it's my bread and butter -- if I was a septic pumper.
I have to admit, I am pretty smooth.
Hey Guys, I'm home!!!!! This topic has gotten quite long but, I wanted to update you on my original question about my staircase.
As you probably know, I spent most of the past two weeks at the lake, working daylight to dark on the house and got a lot done.
I completely finished up the stairway and it looks even better than I had hoped it would.
I started by making 'rosetts' as Peg had proposed and they worked well on the places where the top rail is straight. On the areas where the rail was at an angle, another story altogether. I just could not drill a hole at the correct angle that would hold the rail
where I needed it. So, I decided to try to drill and bolt the dang thing to the newell posts. Thought about buying the screws Peg showed me but, figured I'd try to use lag screws instead and they worked great! I drilled the pilot holes and then sountersunk them
for the 1/2" lag screw head. That is all I have left to do is fill the holes, sand and stain. All the rest is done including the cables used in place of the balisters and which I really like. It's all stained and ready for poly and I have not taken any pics of the finished product as I want to show you when it's all complete. That should be next Monday when I get back from this weekends trip back down there.
I can't say enough about this forum and especially Glenn and Peg and all you others that share your experiences and trade secrets.
Where else can you get this type service and the price is right!!
Thanks all of you and especially John for the forum!!!!
Okie Bob
PS: as soon as I get time I plan to start a topic on tiling a shower base from scratch!!! Been on heck of a project so far.
Glad things went well for you BoB. We'll be waiting for those pictures. Sounds great.
Quote from: Okie_Bob on January 01, 2008, 01:10:40 PM
On the areas where the rail was at an angle, another story altogether. I just could not drill a hole at the correct angle that would hold the rail
where I needed it.
If you had a nail gun , a pinner / small one, you could have pined the rossette to the rail end to hold it steady then bored for your screw.
There's always a answer some times just to late.
Glad most of it worked out better for you .
Lookin forward to your photo's , so I can check it out ;)
Peg, I'm not sure I follow about pining the rossette to the rail?? I did use my brad nailer to attached the rail to the newell post before I drilled thru the rail and into the newell post. Don't follow how I could have pinned to the rail and drilled the rossette?? The rail is round (well it has a flat on the bottom) 1 3/4" dia. So I cut it to length by holding it in place to get the correct length and also could mark the correct angle...anyway it worked out fine as far as I can tell. You do understand I was trying to make the rossettes myself?
Okie Bob
Explaining this stuff with written words is hard d*
I could show you in ten minutes what takes hours to type out .
Once all pieces are cut the right lenght , at the right angles, etc. You'd hold the rossette up to and in the right spot on the rail end , pin it in place , then drill a pilot hole and drive the screw into the rail end grain.
Once the rossette is attached to the rail hold this unit in place either on the wall , OR on the newel post then screw thru the rosstte into the post / wall.
It's sounds like you put rossettes at the newel posts , which I never TRIED to say ;) but what ever you worked out , IF you like the looks is fine.
We'll see when you post photos what you did. But hey you've done very well for yourself so far . [cool]
No worries and BoB's yer uncle eh [cool]
Ok Peg, I think I understand what you meant.
I guess I was not clear either about using the rossettas. I did use them on the newalls on the sides where the rail is parallel to the ground. I did NOT use them on the sides of the newell posts where the rails run at angles.
Yep, you'll see when I get the pics posted.
Now Peg, you did lose me on that last comment.....about my uncle BoB? You do notice that I can never spell my name backwards and get it wrong? I know, not very funny but, hey I tried.
Okie Bob
and Bob's your uncle = and everything will be fine
Old British expression.
Bruce
Thanks firefox, never heard that one before!!
Well guys I just posted the latest pics to my blog site and you can come back here and give me your comments, thoughts, what ever!
The address is:
http://bobdanaslakehouse.blogspot.com/
And Peg, please read the note at the bottom, I am NOT finished yet but, wanted to get some pics up. Peg you'll see the rossettes we
talked about and also how I attached the rails that were on the riser sections. Seem to be very stable and believe it is going to work out fine.
Thanks again for everyones help and I look forward to your comments.
Okie Bob
Looks good to me, BoB, but you gotta understand that I am satisfied living in a hole in the ground.
Looks OK BoB , a few things didn't translate but over all ya got er done. And Bob's yer Uncle eh ;)