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I am building the Universal 2 story. I have the 1st floor framed, sheithed, ceiling joists in, and by the end of the weekend the sub floor will be on top of the joists and the front door will be installed. I'm moving at a snails pace with this project because that is what my time and budget allows. Winter is comming and we are at 5500 feet near Lake Arrowhead, CA. (I sheithed over the windows and won't cut them out until we're ready to install them).
It's looking like I won't get the 2nd floor and roof framed before the snow arrives. I am considering rolling out some tar paper on the 2nd floor and closing it up for the winter and picking up again in the spring. Should I tar paper the sheithing on the exterior walls too? Put the Tyvek on now and leave it exposed all winter? leave it as is? What are your recommendations for closing this guy up for the winter? Our winters are typically pretty mild.
Thank you
Chuck
Tyvek can't stand a lot of UV and it would be an expensive waste to put it on over winter. Felt has a limited exposure life also but is cheaper.
Builders plastic may be the best choice.
Like Peter said Tyvek and the like would be a waste.
Building/roofing/tar paper would be a better choice IMHO. Nail it on using the plastic cap nails, maybe even covering the lap points with some furring strips to give the wind less to get a hold of.
If it was me I'd stack any lumber I had on site (full lenght or width of the building ) starting in the center with the highest stack , then one stack either side of center .
I'd get a blue tarp that was a little , maybe 8 to 10", wider and ,longer than the deck , I'd run 2x4's about every 6 ' at a slight angle away from the building , like teepee struts , so the tarp would shed the water away from the building , it would also allow air to get under / around / and move so promote air drying of anything that got / gets wet.
Tarp paper would be my next choice , Trypar would be shot by the end of the winter and as has been mentioned it's not cheap.
I would avoid plastic , as in typing to make a bag that would hold moisture and would also make moisture like a green house.
So a sudo "roof" with air flow would be my choice or what I'd do IF I had your situation.
G/L PEG
I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to not put the floor sheathing in -- It will just collect snow and water and deteriorate. Just thinking - how about other opinions.
I missed that part , BUT if he could hold it up like I suggested it would shed the water.
I sure WOULD NOT install that door, I'd screw a sheet of OSB over the whole and call it good.
If he doesn't sheet the floor he could just cover the walls and a foot or so of the joist and let the water fall inside the crawlsapce .
I wonder IF the sheathing is stored on site ? If it is he might as well install it it'd go south on him if it's stored outside anyway.
So more info I guess , eh!
Yep - that could help. I think osb would have a problem swelling if wet in the winter.
QuoteYep - that could help. I think osb would have a problem swelling if wet in the winter.
Isn't that how they get the different thickness, wet 7/16" in tow days you got 3/4 " 5 more days you goy 5/4 (1") , add a month ya got 1 1/2" etc ;D
I had custom fit steel frames to go around wwet OSB decks. I had to smash the OSB sides in with a sledge hammer to get the frames on. They had been measured before thew OSB decks soaked in the rain all winter -- on an apartment complex -- 3 floors. About 50 0f them
:D I put out a bid list for lumber yesterday, and I listed 1/2 CDX for the roofing material. First floor slab, smaller room upper (gambrel roof) in 3/4 T&G plywood.
:-? How the hell did we get in this pickle were the industry says OSB is wonderful (and the government seems to support the lie) and in reality it can't take many normal building conditionis?
:o Hey, I see now that a 1/16 gap should be left around the 3/4 T&G too, that seems hard to maintain. (i.e as I remember you almost have to slam them together sometimes, and then they are tight).
:) and I'm not muuching here, this is just the garage, the house will be John's 1 1/2 (of which I have the plans). [course I may have to switch to another plan as I got wider)
thanks
Frank
[highlight]How the hell did we get in this pickle were the industry says OSB is wonderful (and the government seems to support the lie) and in reality it can't take many normal building conditionis?
[/highlight]
Cost!
I smiled a little when Glenn replied to one of my posts about ungraded lumber not meeting code. The last time I went to HD, many of the wall studs they had would have been turned down but the inspectors 20 years ago. He'd have made me pull them out and replace them.
Quote[highlight]How the hell did we get in this pickle were the industry says OSB is wonderful (and the government seems to support the lie) and in reality it can't take many normal building conditionis?
[/highlight]
Cost!
I smiled a little when Glenn replied to one of my posts about ungraded lumber not meeting code. The last time I went to HD, many of the wall studs they had would have been turned down but the inspectors 20 years ago. He'd have made me pull them out and replace them.
1. We don't have much wood big enough to make real plywood out of any more so chips make whatever can be glued together. A 1/16 or 1/8 gap limits liability --- If you screw up and don't maintain it they are off the hook if something goes wrong.
2. The comment about grading was for those who care about code. Actually it's purpose is not about safety, suitability or quality. It's purpose is to eliminate the possibility that you can go out and buy from a small mill that is in competition with government getting taxes and big business getting sales. It also makes sure that you contribute to the well being of someone who went to college to be a grader and pays their union dues. The higher education system runs a good ol' boy system that assures you that the peons and their peers will go to each specialist they can be sent to whenever possible dropping a little trail of money along the way. Must support higher education or the industry is out of work.
For me - I make my own lumber. Hey did I ever teach you how to carve a grading stamp out of a potato? :-?
I hope you didn't take offense to the comment Glenn. It wasn't meant that way. That said, I guess I should explain some of what I say and do for new builders here.
I don't disregard the building codes. For instance. by education, I am an electrical engineer and consider the electrical codes minimum and in some cases dangerous. Even when I'm code exempt, I upgrade and don't have to worry about fault levels or wires overheating in walls or stray currents fouling up my TV reception.
Other parts of the building codes are designed to meet minimal safety requirements at minimum cost. I disregard them all the time but...........That's me! I don't recommend others do it unless they feel competent.
I am not an architect and am constantly asking questions that seem stupid. Thankfully, John is good enough to answer and I'm sure he has a Nap doll he sticks pins in. :o
I am also a little colorful sometimes so if you have doubts, follow the plans and stay within the code.
Yes, our 2nd floor OSB sub floor material is already site (that is the last of our unused material on site). We also have the 1st story's floor covered with OSB. I don't think that leaving the 2nd story's floor uncovered for the winter is any help. I could just try to work through the fall/winter, probably have the roof on by mid January. We went with the 23/32 T&G OSB because here in CA it is $10 less per sheet.
You can't easily offend me, Peter. I just feel sometimes I need to expound on why things end up costing so much and the fact that because things are code doesn't mean they are good. It just means that some company has spent thousands testing a product -- paying off the right agencies etc. to get their product approved so it will be one of the items required by the code and they can make their fortunes.
Asbestos was code approved. Penta was code approved. Creosote was code approved. CCA was code approved. Tyvek is code approved.
I'm hardly ever offended -- I may offend others -- none intended unless I intended to -- that only happens to jerks on this forum though and I usually handle it in private unless they make a public issue of it. :)
I talked to a local contractor and he said that he would not cover it at all, but roll some industrial grade concrete sealant on the OSB sub floor and top edges of the OSB wall sheithing. Sound like a good idea?
I haven't heard of that , but it sounds like it may work. That stuff seals our cob - (adobe) benches etc fine. We use Quikcrete concrete cure and seal.