I apologize if this question has been asked before (as I assume it has) but I couldn't find it either browsing or searching.
I'm think of going 24" o.c. for the studs on the 20x30 1 ½ story cottage, the obvious advantages being reduced cost and increased insulation.
What are the disadvantages (obviously, a decrees in the structural integrity of the structure but I live in upstate NY, little to fear from wind or earth quakes)? Would any resulting changes to the plans be necessary?
Thanks, M
In my opinion, the cost reduction is not that great, considering the overall cost of the structure. Insulation wise, you gain insulation through thickness (2x4 walls versus 2x6 walls) not neccessarily stud spacing. I tend to overbuild and make it stronger though.
I built my cabin in the Southern Tier of Western New York. http://ourlittlecabin.blogspot.com/
I think 16" oc just makes an overall stronger structure. What are we talking about here though...an extra 20 or 30 2 x 6's? That is about $150 or so?
Yea the cost isn't too great in terms of money but in terms of time it's somewhat significant. The insulation w/ 24 o.c. is a bit better because the R vlaue of insulation is higher than wood.
Benefit: - better insulation not only from the thicker insulation , 2x6 over 2x4, but removing studs increases the overall insulation rating of the wall. This is because the solid wood (1.5" wide) has a much lower R-value. :)
- cost savings is not all that great. The few dollars saved on studs will be buried in the overall cost of the project
Disadvantage: Some have reported a wavy effect in the drywall because of less support. :-/
If you are interested in getting the best insulation value in your wall, there's more on that here
http://www.countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1169525534/0
Advantage: There is better insulation value to 24" o/c studs since there is less R-5 wood and more R-21 insulation.
Disadvantage: You should go up 1/8" in the drywall (from 1/2" to 5/8").
The next step after studs at 24" is OVE or optimum value engineering, sometimes called "advanced framing". This includes a bag of tricks such as single top plates (where possible), insulation to the corners (using 3 studs rather than 4) and insulated or single headers. All this cuts down transmission through the wood and saves on lumber costs. It might not be a good idea for the first time builder however. Be conservative on the first house you frame. Then you will learn what you can eliminate.
Mtn D has it , wavy inside and out, :o made worst /more obvious with already wavy Hardi plank siding. ::)
Inside you can go to 5/8" rock to combat it , or wood T&G lumber paneling , "regular wood paneling the 1/4" or so stuff would still telegraph the wavy effect , even if layed over 1/2 "S/R . So 5/8" helps with the wavy.
By the time you do that you've spent more than the 16 "OC studs would have cost. And yes you get a bit higher R value , but in a small home that would be minuscule.
Not worth it IMO. I stay away from 24" OC when ever possible. Which it alway isn't in my case. :(
Here's a picture re the corner studding John mentioned. Took me a while to find it.
You probably have more to gain from proper sealing to reduce air in/ex-filtration than you do by worrying about 16" vs 24" stud centers, IMHO
I was thinking of using 2x6 instead of 2x4 for my own little 14x26 cabin we're going to build this summer. I did all the material cost calcs, 16" vs 24" centers etc. Then I decided with all the windows the place will have I was being foolish worrying about the walls. The big heat pipes are the windows. :-/ ...and I have more than enough trees that need to be cut I'm never going to have to worry about a little extra firewood. Not to mention the big National Forest that half surrounds me.
QuoteHere's a picture re the corner studding John mentioned. Took me a while to find it.
You probably have more to gain from proper sealing to reduce air in/ex-filtration than you do by worrying about 16" vs 24" stud centers, IMHO
Those clips are a joke , how do you nail your base in the corner , how do you nail closet cleating in the corner?? And wahts that corner going to look like in a couple of seasons / years with only tape holding the Rock>>
I would not recommend them most D/W crews would screw it up as well , I just don't see those working in the long haul.
But to each thier own.
Thanks for your insight PEG. :-[ I've never used them and never thought too much about them. I just knew about them. I'm glad your voice of practical field experience is here. :) And you're probably right about a lot of the drywall crews.
A couple of thoughts from a ex-wanna-be drywaller:
1. I did it enough when I was younger that I found a different profession.
2. I seem to remember that 1/2" was WAY lighter than 5/8".
3. Those clips are utterly worthless. By the time you have your fudge factor for the fit of the drywall, there isn't a whole lot holding up the sheet. We used them for about a week way back in 1978. Told the boss to get rid of the clips or us. Luckily, he ditched the clips. ;)
4. You're just asking for trouble fot handging walls on 24" center. Your eye follows the walls more closely than it does ceilings. You WILL see every wobble.