Here is a house I'm starting to get pictures from. The owners panelized the walls in a barn and got them up in one day.
(http://www.countryplans.com/images/cody-550.jpg)
Click to see the Posting to the Owner Builder Gallery (http://www.countryplans.com/cody.html).
I love the windows...Lots of light for a small cottage
Also impressive they went with real plywood...
Good stuff.... I think it is awesome to pre assemble the walls as much as possible then put them up....You can work nights after work in the dark in the comfort of the back yard or garage....And then off to the site on Saturday and get er done all week-end long.
Pretty amazing what we can do when we use the old head for something other than a hat rack :)
Wow - Peter - You have given me a cool idea for a hat rack. :)
Wow, what a great idea. Panelizing the walls. I wouldn't have ever thought of that. Although, it does seem to waste a stud here and there. But, I guess it's a give and take. I'd lose a stud now and then to be able to do that in my garage, since where I want to build is 30 min. away.
Jared
Just updated the Gallery page. Cody sent some new photos.
20x30 Single Story cottage (http://www.countryplans.com/cody.html)
(http://www.countryplans.com/images/cody-8.jpg)
Hey guys and gals... Do we have any suggestions for Cody and her siding issue? I'm a bit worried that the metal roofing looks like it was stopped right at the edge of the framing and will not extend beyond the siding and the facia trim board (whatever these end up to be). Perhaps a short strip of metal roofing can just be added later.
The roofing company should have corner trim available to go over the edge and over the sheeting.
Glenn,
Hat rack idea...Dare I ask? ::)
Hey Folks,
I acually have corner trim up now over the 3/8th siding I just didn't havethe pics downloaded yet. We were going to tear the siding away this weekend but now Im thinking we will just leave it until we can afford to replace it. Winters here in Kansas are really dry so Im hoping it wont rot, it just looks stupid!! All warped and wavy. We really want to do a rainscreen with cedar siding or barn wood siding next spring. What Im worried about is that we screwed the trim on to the roof at a point wear it was a perfect 90 degrees with the 3/8th siding so now if we go back with furring strips (rainscreen) and cedar which is quite a bit thicker than 3/8th than our roof evan with the trim is to short. The only thing I can think of is to take the trim off and move is farther out to cover an extra 2 inches on each gable end, but then there will be holes in 4 of the panels and the ridge cap will be to short (4 inches) :'( Help if you have any ideas.
Just another picture
We often miss a screw or two on steel buildings. If your sheeting had caulking between sheets you can use some of it to plug the holes - if not some silicone rubber - maybe matching color should do it. Ridge cap can just be lap spliced and caulked just like on the rest of the ridge - extend as needed - gives you a couple extra joints but after a few days you'll forget they're there. Corner trim may be able to be moved to the top of the high rib - if that is not far enough you may need to get two more sheets and rip them using each sheet to do two sides.
In my mind, Peter, I got this cool image of maybe a small multi-branched tree - 5 feet tall or so with the branches cut off and a head on the end of each stick to hold hats. They wouldn't have to be real -- maybe made out of cob or something -- when I'm feeling sculpty. (https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/duhhh.gif)
Cody, way to go! I am IMPRESSED! And with a new baby & toddler... Looks great 8-)
That's a nice little place. I'll try to folow this one to see how the interior ends up looking. Looks like and open floor plan in the making. :)
QuoteThey wouldn't have to be real -- maybe made out of cob or something
I don't know Glenn. As John has pointed out, imitation materials might look ok at first but as they age they look less and less like the real thing.
I think I have that problem myself -- Oh - wait - I am the real thing--- that excuse won't work. :'(
Question for tech experts..... the headers over the windows. I'm more familiar with seeing fatter headers. Is there something about the way these are done that these are sufficient? Oh...I imagine it has something to do with the 5 1/2 " depth, right?
Thanks
Frank
Oh yeh..... this is so great thus far, I hope we get to see more of the inside and inside layout over time.
Hi....English guy here currently snowbirding in Mexico, but having gotten a nice lot in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, Canada.....Your idea of panelising in a modular fashion your lovely cabin is an idea that has struck me that would suit my circumstances very well.
I'm sure from your notes in the forum that you have acquired numerous tips that i would very much welcome hearing about...it would give me a step up the learning curve that you have obviously gone through....it looks like a great project that you are doing in Kansas [my e.mail addtess is dcluffingham@hotmail.com.....or by way of the forum is fine]. Many thanks in advance, DEREK
Welcome to the forum, Derek. Hope you find things here you can use. Cody did a great job.
I emailed Cody directly and she replied the following to me:
The basic panel is 4x8 5/8th inch plywood, which if this is a rustic cabin you can use 5/8 t1-11 plywood siding and just be done in one step.
I cut 2 studs to 90" and 2 at 48" nail them all together to create a big rectangle dimensions 93" x 48." 93" because each 48" 2x4 or 2x6 is 1.5" thick. Then, off set the plywood .75 inch in on one side and hanging over on the other. The plywood is 96" long so you will have 1.5 inches on both the top and bottom hanging over.
The panels are designed to sit on a sill plate and also have a top plate to connect them to each other. The sill and top plate take up the last 1.5 inches of the plywood. So now you have your basic panel - you can either put a stud in at 24"oc or you can build in a window or door. The corners where a little more tricky bacuase you need plywod to cover the end of the other panel. So, in my case, I used 2x6 plus 5/8 plywood, which is 5.5 inches thick for the stud plus .5 inches thick for the plywood - so my plywood over hang 6 inches.
Just one word of caution, after you make a few panels it gets really easy and quick the tendancy might be to not pay enough attention and overhand the plywood on the wrong side of the 48"x93" frame. I did this twice and it sucks. I also sat down for about 4 hours and drew each panel with a ruler and pencil on paper so I knew how many regular panels and how many windows etc.
If you do these right, putting them up will only take about 4 hours. It took longer to get the sill plate strait (slab guy put the bolts in crooked) than it took to put up the panels on the sill plate and attach the top plate.
Looking good Cody. For a brief time I could get plywood for less than OSB. I think it is switching back now as OSB is coming back down. Go figure. Let's go blow up another country to rebuild so we can pay more.
Luffingham
Where on the Cape is your lot... I am from the Mainland in Nova Scotia...an hour from Halifax....Taxes are steep there man...Gorgeous views and countryside in Cape Breton....
HI GLENN.......THANKS VERY MUCH FOR THE WARM WELCOME, I HAVE BEEN READING YOUR WEB SITE FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS OR SO [FOUND IT FASCINATING AND FULL OF SOLID INFORMATION, TIPS AND IDEAS] BUT NEVER HAD ANYTHING USEFUL TO CONTRIBUTE OR ASK....! [UNTIL NOW] BUT CODY'S SYSTEM REALLY TURNED ME ON TO UTILISE NEXT SUMMER, SO HERE I AM WITH A REAL MOTIVE NOW.
YOU WILL REALISE, I'M SURE, THAT CONSTRUCTION IN ENGLAND [WHERE ALL OF MY KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE ORIGINATES FROM] IS VERY DIFFERENT [IN THE EXTREME] EVEN TERMS ARE QUITE DIFFERENT TOO SO ITS TAKEN ME A WHILE TO CATCH ON !!
HI BENEVOLANCE......I HAVE MY LOT ON THE ISLE of MADAME, ABOUT 25 MINS FROM PORT HAWKESBURY....ITS A VERY UNSPOILT AREA [ARCADIAN ] WITH COASTAL OR LAKE VIEWS EVERYWHERE YOU LOOK...!
HI YOUNGINS......MANY THANKS FOR THE POSTED TRANSCRIPT OF CODY'S NOTES TO YOURSELF, AND THE MANY PICS YOU SENT BY E.MAIL....HELPS CONSIDERABLY IN UNDERSTANDING HER IDEA [SIMPLE AND VERY EFFECTIVE BY ALL ACCOUNTS]
I'M HOPING TO PUT A POST & PIER FOUNDATION IN NEXT SUMMER ON THE LOT AND AT THE SAME TIME START THE MODULE BUILDING IN A NEARBY BARN, FOR SOMETHING SIMILAR TO THE ENCHINADA....[WHICH IS STILL UNDER CONSIDERATION].... I LIKE THE IDEA OF SMALLER UNITS THAT CAN BE MADE DRY FAIRLY EASILY, RATHER THAN A BIGGER SINGULAR BUILDING THAT MIGHT BE OPEN TO THE ELEMENTS IF TIME CONSTRAINTS DEMAND.
Well, Derek, in reality, it's John's website but he can't control me so I just have my way with it, and try to keep the trash out so we can all talk about anything we want, share, teach and learn.
Glad you find it useful and I want to encourage anyone who is sitting on the side to pop in here and tell us of your interests and ask questions if we can help. Then we can all benefit from each other. A win-win situation. Not many of those left. :)
Any new info or pics on this home. I would really like to see finish pics and interrior pics! I would love her take on the who process, time frame, cost etc. Any help and info would be greatly appriciated. Also...would this plan work on a basement. It seems to me that it would be just as easy to do just a little more work on the floor aspect. Would you basically do it like a crawls space and is that included with the plans?!
Hello, Im sorry it has taken so long to respond. As you can see we added a little awning and not really anything else. We have been waiting for money to do some catch up things like a road. We cant evan get back to the house from the highway. Also the land needs to slope away from the house more, water is quickly bringing in the soil and the slab is getting covered on the one side. I think the 6" slab is know only out of the ground about 3-4 inches. The inside hasn't been touched at all. These panels can sit on any seal or bottom plate rather over a crawl space, basement or slab. If you have 2x6 walls than its a 6" bottom plate and 6" top plate that holds them togather. I will surely post pics as soon as we get going again. Thank You for all your posts.
-Cody
Any idea on the total cost so far Cody. Also did you run plubing or heating in your slab and why or why not? Thanks! I am asking becasue this looks as though something very feasable for me to do if the price is right. The land around here is what is killing me! Also would love some opinions on expanding this. I thought the plans/preview said it could be extended due to no interior walls being supporting walls. So is 20 x 60 realistic with basically what ever floor plan i want? (ex: 3 or 4 bedrooms w/ 2 baths) Also would this work on a basement. Any ideas of what basements run these days?
I think there are some basic basement calculators out there. As far as extending the length, John might be better to ask.
A 20x60 basement foundation could be pricey. One member here is actually building is his own perimeter foundation with concrete blocks. I will post back when I can remember/find who that is - someone in "WOOO PIG SOOIE!" country - I believe. ;)
Oh yes,
N74TG -
http://n74tg.blogspot.com/
Extending length is not usually a problem, engineering loads are the same. Footing spacings continue along the length. Width changes loadings.
One of the problems of slab foundations is that they can have problems if they are not built on high ground and the backfill doesn't slope away from the house on all four sides.
You might want to trench and put in a drain to daylight or a sump if that was not done at the footing level. This could be done away from the house now that things are already in place.
Quote from: youngins on January 11, 2007, 09:52:14 PM
I emailed Cody directly and she replied the following to me:
The panels are designed to sit on a sill plate and also have a top plate to connect them to each other. The sill and top plate take up the last 1.5 inches of the plywood. So now you have your basic panel - you can either put a stud in at 24"oc or you can build in a window or door. The corners where a little more tricky bacuase you need plywod to cover the end of the other panel. So, in my case, I used 2x6 plus 5/8 plywood, which is 5.5 inches thick for the stud plus .5 inches thick for the plywood - so my plywood over hang 6 inches.
I'm raising this from the dead for a reason: Everything I need to know is covered in this post, so there's no point in making another post. The part above, in red, though, doesn't make sense to me. Can someone please explain it better, maybe draw a picture? We've got our land, all utilities and even have put a travel trailer out there and had a metal carport built over it, so we've got everything we need to work on a place. However, I spend more time at home and our rented storage unit is about two minutes from our house, so I'm thinking of doing this with the 1.5 story plans we bought. I'll build in the garage and haul to storage. Then, when all panels are complete, I'll borrow dad's 16' trailer and haul all panels to the building site. Some of us are better at spending a little money at a time rather than saving it up and spending a large amount all at once. Anyway, can someone please help with the above question?
Jared
When you use prefabricated panels you want to make sure the sheathing covers the corners and the sill plate as would normally be done in a site built structure.
Building a layout shop and getting all the panels to fit right at the site calls for careful layout work. You are setting up a small fabrication plant and kit builders can work for years to get this right. Cody did careful work on a very simple house.
You might more easily prefab the stud panels (with a temp diagonal brace) and then skin the panels at the site.
imagine a 4 ft wide panel, the sheathing is offset by 6" so that when its joined to the corner, it covers the edge of the 6" wide stud.
Basicly in a prefab you dont want the stud joins and the sheathing joins to be in the same place, you want the sheathing overlapping any panel joint, whether it be corners or along a wall.
This is for a chicken coop , but you can see the overlap for the base plate and the overlap to the next stud along from the panel join
(http://media.tractorsupply.com/is/image/TractorSupplyCompany/542-7-sunny-side-up-16c/)
make the panels as large as possible to minimise the joints in a long wall, the top and bottom plates would be as long as possible any joins being positioned so that they are not at a panel join.