I need to replace a deck at my Tahoe cabin.
The existing deck failed due to ledger pulling free from rim.
The existing ledger and joists are 2x12.
However....
The rim is 6".
The sill plate is 2"
The subfloor is 1"
And the foundation is 8" cinderblock.
The deck goes 8' from the house, and the outside edge is supported by a 4x12 beam and 8 concrete piers.
I was always told that the ledger should be as wide as the rim.
Unofficially, Washoe County has said the ledger should be 2x12 and secured using LedgerLoks or carriage bolts.
I'm afraid the cinder block will crack trying to drill through it.
What is the best sized ledger to use, and if needed, what is the best way to secure it to the cinder block.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers!!
Tahoe... is the roof dumping tremendous snow on the house side of the deck?
It sounds like the ledger was attached by its upper half but the lower part was dangling... splitting?
How deep down the house footings?
Be interesting to see how the original ledger was installed. 16d? d*
I wound up making my 'attached' deck free-standing, at least the way it's built. I wanted my joists to be parallel to the house, so I had beams running perpendicular. I couldn't figure out a way to really secure those beams, so I made the deck free-standing. I added vertical posts at the house, and put diagonal bracing so that the deck was essentially free-standing. I still have a ledger bolted to the house, so my deck certainly isn't going anywhere!
There's what I was thinking, but if there is tremendous impact even there look at sizes and connections carefully.
Yep, snow dumps on it.
Held on with 4" galvanized.
No, no split, just yelled away.
Best I can tell, it lasted 20 years, failed late 90's.
Nailed right into cinder block as well.
I have no idea how deep the foundation, though in the crawl space one can see the top of the concrete footing.
Foundation is 4 cinder blocks high.
Of course, the entry door is below the metal roof with no gable.
I plan to rectify that too.
The deck originally ran 24' of the 36' side.
I'm shortening it by 10'.
Also entertaining the idea of narrowing from 8' to 5 or 6'.
This last year there was a ton of snow, but the 2' eave maintained a relatively snow free access way.
Not looking for lifetime solution, just a decade or so.
Thanks!
Cheers!!
I thought I remembered a pic from awhile back. It doesn't sound too bad to go down to the house footing and post up from there, still tying into the house like Jay mentioned for lateral.
Freely spending your money :D;
I think I remember like a 4/12 roof? If you narrow the deck and continue the present roof pitch to cover the deck and create a covered porch, does it get into the windows and doors view too much? (remember a roof carry beam too)
If you're tying into concrete block you can use toggle bolts or sleeve anchors to secure your ledger board.
I guess you coule use Tapcons but these two methods are much stronger.
https://www.confast.com/products/technical-info/toggler-bolt.aspx (https://www.confast.com/products/technical-info/toggler-bolt.aspx)
https://www.confast.com/products/concrete-sleeve-anchor.aspx (https://www.confast.com/products/concrete-sleeve-anchor.aspx)