We are interested in using tongue and groove paneling on our build project. I'm curious where others have purchased their wood. We are likely looking for knotty pine, 1 x 6.
If me I think I would go down to the local lumber yard and talk to them. Next I would do the tour of the big box stores. Most likely there are some kit things available...... I have tried a couple about forty years ago and they were okay at best. Did a tiny office in one......
Just to give you an idea of what can be done...... I do not know how involved you want to get but I / we made this wainscot. We logged a bunch of beetle kill pine. Had it sawn at a local mill. I plained and routed the edges in a design I had in my head for a few years. Took some time but really is worth it to us and the period style home we were shooting for. Big panels were a little over 10" and set into the 4" stock. Believe me you do not have to be a great woodworker I am not....... Plus as the old saying goes you are not building furniture you are building a house.
(https://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt15/rick91351/house/DSC_0112_zpsc263a08b.jpg)
(https://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt15/rick91351/house/DSC_0106_zps66cc5d52.jpg)
This is what i did for the master bedroom. I changed up the patten on the big panels....... and re-figured my rabbets on the four inch stock.....
(https://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt15/rick91351/house/DSC_0943_zps58c546df.jpg)
Search craigslist, too. We (upstate SC) have a local guy that specializes in those kind of products, in white pine, yellow pine, cedar, and cypress. I did our porch ceiling in T&G white pine beadboard.
Quote from: MushCreek on July 20, 2015, 05:26:02 AM
Search craigslist, too. We (upstate SC) have a local guy that specializes in those kind of products, in white pine, yellow pine, cedar, and cypress. I did our porch ceiling in T&G white pine beadboard.
WOW MushCreek I would have loved to have done beadboard up under our porches. I love the look! One reason we did not, porches and long eves (love them both) act as heatsinks in fires. Something here is Idaho with our dry - hot summers coupled with our looooooow humidity. Plus living next to a pine forest that goes tinder dry later part of July through to Aug and into September just best to try your best not to build any traps. So we have very very little in the way of real wood on the outside of the house and designed the porches away from the forested areas. All that a side I would had loved to done some bead board.
With respect to fire protection on eaves and porch ceilings, California accepts a fire resistant construction using an underlayment of sheet rock:
Eave Construction w/1x6 T&G and Fire Resistant Vent Screen
(https://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/u9138/Soffit1.jpg)
(https://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/u9138/Soffit2.jpg)
Porch Ceiling w/1x6 T&G
(https://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/u9138/PorchCeiling1.jpg)
Dan, I like that approach. I've never seen any of the firebrand vents here, what am I looking at, the white stuff above the screen?
I'll often get pine T&G from a local log home manufacturing plant, a few pennies per board foot less than the big box and better stuff usually. We also have a local millwork shop and I've also milled/planed/ router table T&G wainscot on a few jobs. That is labor intensive but works well if I'm using trees from the property.
Here's a close up of ember resistant vent...the honeycombs contain a paint that expands to block vent when air temperature reaches a combustible range...the white above screen?...I think you are pointing to the sheet rock underlayment:
(https://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/u9138/Sofit.jpg)
Finished install:
(https://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/u9138/Sofffit3.jpg)
Neat, I think they call that intumescent paint, the end of the honeycomb in the raised center of the vent was what I was seeing.
Quote from: Don_P on July 21, 2015, 10:50:28 PM
.... intumescent paint....
That's right. You can paint wood siding with it too.
Quote from: Don_P on July 21, 2015, 10:50:28 PM
Neat, I think they call that intumescent paint, the end of the honeycomb in the raised center of the vent was what I was seeing.
Interesting in best case scenario and the dwelling lived through it petty well unscathed yet the paint did activate sealing up the soffit material. Does the soffit honeycomb material have to be replaced? I wonder how much blockage is there. Can the paint be scrapped and removed or would the honeycomb material be so restricted it would rendered useless especially like after scrapping?
I guess I could go to their web site.
Quote from: MountainDon on July 21, 2015, 11:28:11 PM
That's right. You can paint wood siding with it too.
I think you have lost me on that one......... ???
Quote from: MountainDon on July 21, 2015, 11:28:11 PM
That's right. You can paint wood siding with it too.
I understand how it works now. It is a retardant paint when applied correctly. So if applied to soffits and deep gable ends and under porches or what might be refereed to as a heat sink they might hopefully retard the time before there is ignition.
More fire science!!! ;) This coupled with a proper set back of flammables might give you or fire crews a better chance in saving or salvaging your dwelling. No one that owns cabins up here really wants to deal with the set back issue. After all that is the reason you buy and build in the middle of a pine grove. Oh well I have hijacked this thread....... back to the topic.....
We are in Campobello, SC and just got our T & G pine from Dave at Lumber Connection! So beautiful!
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