I'm having fun trying to flash the peak of my garage roof to the wall of the house. I have flashing under the building wrap and over the roofing, but how do you do the peak? I cut the flashing so I could bend it over the peak, but then you have a cut right at the very peak. I overlapped it from both sides, but it still leaves a cut right at the peak. How do you deal with this? Fill it with goo?
Not real sure I understand but I will take a stab. Break your metal in a longer piece "L" fashion long enough to give you coverage over both sides. Now on the flange that gets inserted under the house wrap cut a "V' out of the flange. That should allow you to insert that "V" portion under the house wrap and bend the other portion down both sides of the peak. The "V" cut will almost be covered by the siding material. If you wanted to put a little caulking to seal up the bottom of the "V" cut before siding it might help (mostly with piece of mind). Just remember to work your flashing up the wall from the bottom so that the water will "waterfall" it's way from the peak to the bottom. Is this what you were talking about. If not we will try again.
That's exactly what I'm talking about. It just irks me to have that little area that needs a little caulk. Luckily, my overhangs are 24", and the main roof isn't that much higher than the garage roof, so it shouldn't get rain on it often. It would be great if you could buy a stamped piece formed to fit the particular roof pitch. As a tool maker, I could build a series of dies to make these peak pieces in standard pitches. I wonder if there's a market?
I guess I'll just caulk it up good. If it leaked, it would run into the garage, which is no big deal other than the chance of rot.
That's where copper and solder shine. If you put a piece of ice and water under the flashing it will do the work while the metal provides the cover.
Quote from: Don_P on March 23, 2013, 07:35:28 AM
That's where copper and solder shine. If you put a piece of ice and water under the flashing it will do the work while the metal provides the cover.
Must have been reading my mind Don. Just a little quicker on the draw. d* Another alternative that I was also going to suggest just laying another portion of flat flashing horizontally over the "V" notched piece to lessen the opening. You would only end up with a very small void. I am a true believer in Ice Guard. I like to run it everywhere there would be the potential for leaks such as eves, chimneys, valleys and intersections. If it really was a big issue anyone in the metal fabrication buisness could make a watertight connection for you. But I think you would be just fine.
Do these links provide any help?
Vented ridge flashing:
https://www.google.com/search?q=vented+ridge+flashing&hl=en&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS485US485&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=xrtNUci3OaSAiwLyqYDQBQ&sqi=2&ved=0CD0QsAQ&biw=1071&bih=600
Wall to roof flashing:
https://www.google.com/search?q=roof+to+wall+flashing&hl=en&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS485US485&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=Eb1NUaitNcWfiAKl1oGAAw&sqi=2&ved=0CC4QsAQ&biw=1071&bih=600
I've had good luck with Cor-a-vent products.
http://www.cor-a-vent.com/
John I looked at those very sites earlier before I posted a reply but I didn't see anything applicable. Most of which come close is the actual slope of the roof intersecting the wall but nothing that addresses the peak.
So this is a gable roof slapped up against a vertical wall, right? And the question is where the sidewall flashing transitions to the ridge vent at the top of the gable? If so, the custom made flashing Don_P suggested would certainly work - and be handsome. It seems you could also use a high quality flashing tape such as butyl rubber.
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS485US485&ion=1&ie=UTF-8#hl=en&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS485US485&sclient=psy-ab&q=butyl%20rubber%20flashing%20tape&oq=&gs_l=&pbx=1&fp=1072ddabebf4dd0e&ion=1&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.44158598,d.cGE&biw=1071&bih=600
Flex wrap it , cover with your two piece metal over lapped one from each side and forget it. The ridge is the least likely place to leak IMO.
But Tyvek Flex wrap , once you pick your jaw up off the sales counter would work very nicely , use the metal to keep the sun off the wrap.
I did put ice and water shield under the metal, so I should be good to go. I'm still gonna put some goop on the metal. I hadn't thought about soldering some copper. Is it compatible with Galvalume?
Quote from: MushCreek on March 24, 2013, 05:24:03 AM
I did put ice and water shield under the metal, so I should be good to go. I'm still gonna put some goop on the metal. I hadn't thought about soldering some copper. Is it compatible with Galvalume?
Not sure whether this will help or not. http://www.vmzinc-us.com/zinc-basics/compatibilities.html . If it is like pressure treated lumber (copper compound) and flashing or electrocoated galvanization there will be crossion. Using a membrane such as Ice guard between the two will prevent that exchange of chemicals. I used it between the termite shield and pressure treated sill.