Howdy,
My two family cabin has finally been approved by club where I'm building it. It is a hundred year old club with several rustic cabins and a central lodge. I'm going to ask a local contractor that has done much work for several other cabins to build a dried-in shell for me. It is on a sloped grade at about 3/12. I have some renderings and a floor plan. It will be 24'x64' with a large front porch and large rear sleeping porch. The reason for this post is to get some feedback on some rough specs to give the contractor. I don't plan on getting architectural specs/construction drawing so it will have to be a time and materials contract---but I trust this contractor to give me a decent rough estimate.
I appreciate any feedback.
Here is the rendering:
(https://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s315/spammeup/Markert_Eagleton_Cabin_View1_CMUbase.jpg)
Here is the floor plan (ignore odd interior dimensions for now)
(https://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s315/spammeup/Markert_Eagleton_Cabin_FloorPlan1.jpg)
Specs as below:
FOUNDATION
Concrete, stepped, continuous footer with 24" width, 18" depth.
Continuous CMU block wall with uphill portion at least 16" in height and downhill portion's height to be determined by grade. (estimated to be 8')
CMU cavities reinforced with rebar and full height grout at appropriate intervals.
Center floor beam with concrete and post piers to support floor Ijoists
Pressure treated sill plate
Northeast corner basement with concrete floor and block walls to extend above grade, but not necessarily to main floor deck. Dimensions approximately 16' x 24"
Floor drain in basement with piping leading to outside.
Foundation to be sleeved for future water supply, sanitary drain, basement drain and electric service
FLOOR
Engineered Ijoists, 24" on-center.
Rim board on porch side to be pressure treated 2" x ?
Advantech subflooring, 3/4"
EXTERIOR FRAMING/SHEATHING
8' exterior walls with 2" x 4" framing and appropriate top plate and opening headers
7/16" OSB exterior sheathing with full house wrap covering
ROOF FRAMING/DECKING
Engineered attic trusses with 7/12 pitch on 24" centers. Simpson hurricane connectors
7/16" OSB roof decking
1" x ? fascia board
ROOFING
Full coverage ice and water shield over roof deck
Full coverage reflective bubble insulation
Metal roof, 24 gauge, color to be determined
SIDING
HardiePlank siding, 8.25", pre-primed
WINDOWS
Double pane, single hung.
DOORS
Steel entry door at sleeping porch
Two double doors leading to front porch. One side of each door will be fixed.
Double entry door to basement.
FRONT PORCH
8" x 8" posts on concrete footings at approximately 8' intervals
Double 2" x 10" beam to support joists. Notch posts for beam connection
2" x 10" pressure treated deck joists, 24" on-center. Simpson joist hangers (these joists may need to be 2" x 12")
Continuous blocking between deck joists
Pressure treated ledger board at cabin attachment
Lateral load devices at ledger board such as Simpson DTT2Z at approximately 10' intervals. Provide blocking support at the Ijoists for attachment
Double 2" x 10" beam to support porch roof joists
Pressure treated 2" x 4" decking
Full coverage roof to comply with previous roof specs
SLEEPING PORCH
Concrete pier supports along western edge, approximately 8' spacing, with continuous double 2" x 10" beam to support floor joists
Floor joists, 2" x 10" , 24" on-center, Simpson joist hangers
Advantch 3/4" subfloor decking.
Fully framed, sheathed, wrapped and sided similar to main cabin exterior walls
Bead board paneling over OSB sheathing on main cabin exterior wall, within enclosed area of sleeping porch.
Rim board on porch side to be pressure treated 2” x ?
Keep in mind you have to step down from inside to outside at least 1". If your rimjoist you're talking about here is for the porch at 2x10 seems about right since your TJI's are spec'd at 12". Also---I can never find halfway decent pressure treated lumber in the bigger sizes. Sure, they won't rot, but if they're split, checked, and twisted, what's the difference? I've been buying lumber and giving it 2 coats of Termin-8 (any copper napthanate product will do)...If you do buy pressure treated stuff make sure you paint any cuts with this stuff
My first thought is that I believe that attempting to build anything larger than a simple garden shed without paper plans to reference is asking for trouble. Even if the contractor is very good without plans there will be too much gray area. Your expectations may not be clear to the contractor. If he does something and you don't like it, how will that be resolved? Who gets to pay for the change? To me, a drawn plan is essential to avoid both misunderstandings and construction details that affect other components as work progresses. In fact if I was the contractor I would be uncomfortable with taking on a project of this scope without plans, if only to protect myself against misunderstandings and opinion differences.
I don't know where this location is as to climate, but I personally wouldn't build anything without 2x6 for wall framing because of the rising costs of heating and cooling.
Another opinion; I am skeptical about the long term usefulness of reflective bubble insulation. Reflective barriers do have some effect on radiant energy when new and clean, but have reduced value as dust settles on them. To be efffective they require an air space and when positioned in a horizontal or even a tilted plane they will get dusty. Reflective bubbles do have have much R-value when it comes to strictly heat transfer by conduction. So when the sun is beating down on the roof they can help reflect heat up, but when it's night time they don't do a lot for preventing the heat from inside escaping for example.
The use of Advantech and Hardi products are good choices as is a full perimeter foundation.
Does dust on thermal barrier decrease the reflection of IR? ???
(Found this---answer is---'sorta')
http://www.atticfoil.com/install-questions/myths/217-radiant-barrier-myths-dust-accumulation.html
Thanks for the replies.
Flyingvan: There is a sawmill only a couple of miles away. They can make saw me any lumber I spec and many of the cabins have lumber from there going back many decades. Might be a good idea to get some of the lumber there and treat as you suggest.
Don: I understand your uneasiness with no plans---I feel it too. I definitely will not be throwing down thousands for plans, but maybe my architect buddy can produce a few details, wall sections, etc. He definitely will be cleaning up the floor plan.
Not sure about the reflective bubble wrap under the metal roof. I did that for the 12x16 modern manshed project that I posted here a couple of years ago and it seems to be doing its job. I do know that I want full coverage ice and water shield under it all. How did you build your roof or how would you recommend I do mine?
As far as the 2x4 vs 2x6, this place will only be used maybe 30 days each year so I'm a little less concerned with insulation. Relatively moderate climate in Oklahoma and will use efficient mini-split heat pumps for cooling and some heating.
I'll bet the price difference between 2x4 and 2x6 is negligable. There are other reasons though----you can bore a 2x6 for plumbing and electrical in the center, then do interior and exterior siding with 2 1/2" nails without hitting anything. 2x4's will warp and twist more than 2x6's while lying around (They WILL lie around. Take your estimated time to build and triple it) You can get 3 nails in the ends of each 2x6 stud without anything splitting. Insulation and sound proofing will add to the value of the structure more than the cost difference, and it will just feel more snug and secure. Ever slam an exterior door on a 2x4 framed house? Unless it's near a corner the wall will wiggle.
You can draw your own plans. There are programs that will help with span tables and such also. You might even see if a local college has a drafting class and find someone to take your drawings on as a project
Hmmm....I will have to strongly consider the 2x6 framing.
Thanks for the input