I have been a lurker here for a few years and have got many great ideas from this forum. I wish there was a way to donate money to whoever runs it, because I feel bad that I am taking so much, but I don't really have a way to give back.
My wife and I have bought a piece of land in Northern Wisconsin and we plan on starting to build in the spring. Our building codes have a minimum building size, so I have modified the 20x30 plan into a 20x40 1 1/2 story. I was wondering if someone would be willing to look over my plans. My drawings are in a 5mb Google SketchUp file. I have hosted them on Google Docs at: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4XXvNXEkQreYzQ3MTI3NWEtZTlkMy00OGYyLWFhMjUtMzhkODk2YzA5MjVi
Can you post some JPEGs?
Alan
Yes, not everyone uses sketchup nor has a fast connection to D/L a 5 MB file.
(https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y116/Tinga_Wolvesbane/Snips/Floorplan.png)
(https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y116/Tinga_Wolvesbane/Snips/snip3.png)
(https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y116/Tinga_Wolvesbane/Snips/snip4.png)
(https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y116/Tinga_Wolvesbane/Snips/snip6.png)
(https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y116/Tinga_Wolvesbane/Snips/snip7.png)
(https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y116/Tinga_Wolvesbane/Snips/snip1.png)
(https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y116/Tinga_Wolvesbane/Snips/pier.png)
(https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y116/Tinga_Wolvesbane/Snips/beam2.png)
Wow, Thanks Tinga! You beat me to it. I got a lot of inspiration for the pier design from Dug and Jenny's 20x30. Right now I have it drawn up with 12" piers, but I am debating reducing them down to 10" diameter. The footers will be no less then four feet below grade. Our soil is sandy loam with a good proportion of large chunks of limestone.
Also, I just noticed that I forgot to add the spacer underneath the ridge board so that the heel of the rafter has something to sit on. This will be added in the next revision.
I can't tell, is that a load bearing wall under the ridgeboard in the loft?
Also the ridgeboard should extend lower so the whole rafter rests on it. Use two boards if you have to.
The center wall upstairs is not exactly centered under the ridge beam. It is offset by about four inches. I did not intend for it to be a load bearing wall.
I caught my mistake with the ridgeboard not being tall enough for the entire rafter to sit on it. I have fixed it in my drawing.
That would be one of those cases where no matter what we call it, that is a load bearing wall. If you can't move it under the ridge, run a horizontal 2x across under the ridge to the opposite rafter and tie both sides well, tight over the top of the wall.
The minimum width of a winder tread is 6", 10" at the 12" walkline IIRC.
If you carry the lower roofline tails across the 2 story wall it helps break it up.
if the bolts out of the piers came out in the line facing the next pier plywood wall panels could be inset between piers giving much better bracing.
Thanks all of the suggestions. I took your advice and moved all of the center walls directly over the center floor beam and directly under the ridge board. I also added headers to the doors on that new load bearing wall. I'm not sure why I didn't have it all centered in the first place.
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/20x40RidgeBoard.jpg)
I think I am OK on the winder tread depth. Wisconsin Residential Code says:
a. The winder treads shall have a minimum tread depth of 7
inches measured at a point 12 inches from the narrow end of the
tread.
There is no mention of minimum depth at the narrowest end.
Wednesday Morning - October 12th, 2011 Oklahoma, USA
Hi MWAndrus,
Hey, I looked over your drawing in sketchup and Wow, you must have spent a lot of time doing that, creating components, and getting everything just right. Do you have the Sketchup Pro version? Thanks for sharing that drawing with us.
It's hard to tell from the pics. How many piers do you have? And what are the dimensions?
I think I have my plans almost ready to send to the building inspector. I have finished the 3D model and put together a presentation in Google Layout. Take a look and let me know what you think. I do not work with residential blueprints much, so Im not exactly sure what they are going to be looking for. The 3D Model can be found here for people that have SketchUp: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4XXvNXEkQreYzQ3MTI3NWEtZTlkMy00OGYyLWFhMjUtMzhkODk2YzA5MjVi
Here is the presentation that I have put together:
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/20x40_01.png)
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/20x40_02.png)
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/20x40_03.png)
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/20x40_04.png)
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/20x40_05.png)
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/20x40_06.png)
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/20x40_07.png)
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/20x40_08.png)
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/20x40_09.png)
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/20x40_10.png)
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/20x40_11.png)
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/20x40_12.png)
See my above post. After some feedback from the building inspector I changed the roof pitch on the second story roof to 4/12. Also, while looking at insulation considerations, I decided to change the 1st floor roof. I added a rafter tie on every rafter instead of on every third. The ceiling wont be as high now, but it will be much cheaper to insulate. I have a bad feeling that this is going to cost more than what we expect and they wont let us move in when we want.
One question that I have is: Should I have double floor rim joist because the exterior wall is sitting on that edge?
Suggestion: With 2 bedrooms upstairs, consider putting in at least a powder room, if not a full bath, on the upper level. If family or guests on the 2nd floor need to use the 'facilities' in the middle of the night, groggy people might fall down a flight of stairs on the way to the 1st floor bathroom. How far is the nearest emergency room?
The second story storage room is intended to be converted into a bathroom in the future. I called it a storage room so that we dont have to finish the walls before we move in. We will finish it out as a bathroom in the future after we move in.
I do not mean to hijack, but.......
Would you be willing to charge for that pier foundation plan if it can be adapted . I plan to go with a 32x26 and the building inspector asked for the exact plan you drew.
Most of the foundation ideas that I have used have come free from this site, so I wouldn't feel right about charging someone. I drew up the model in Google SketchUp and then made the plans off the model in LayOut. My model is available from the link in my first post. You are welcome to take it and modify it. Or if you send me a sketch, I will see if I can model it for you. Just remember, I am not an architect.
Things that popped out during a quick run thru;
It would probably be better to specify HDG 1/2" fasteners in the foundation rather than grade 5. I'd spec J bolts in the pours rather than machine bolts.
Technically it is required to block over the point of bearing supporting a cantilever, this isn't much of a canti. Single rim is ok.
The winders look to have unequal treads at the walkline, they look dangerous IMO.
The west elevation needs to be balloon framed, that plate is a hinge pont in the wall.
I'm assuming this is a level soffit.
There are no lookouts/ barge rafters/ gable overhang shown.
Quote from: MWAndrus on October 30, 2011, 11:47:04 AM
Most of the foundation ideas that I have used have come free from this site, so I wouldn't feel right about charging someone. I drew up the model in Google SketchUp and then made the plans off the model in LayOut. My model is available from the link in my first post. You are welcome to take it and modify it. Or if you send me a sketch, I will see if I can model it for you. Just remember, I am not an architect.
Could modify what you have there down to a 32x26, I would be happy to pay you an hours labor. Send me a pm with your email and I will send you my sketches. Thank you for the offer to help me out.
After looking at this house plan more, we were not happy with how far away the woodstove was from the bedrooms and the house is a bit bigger then what we would like. So I don't think we will be building this one. However, in case anyone is interested, I did get a quote for materials from a local Menards. To get this house dried in, they estimate materials alone will cost $15,383.This includes all of the framing, subfloor, insulation, drywall, fasteners and roof material. This price does not include windows, doors or siding.
great looking plans (visually, not technically). [cool]
so you purchased sketchup Pro? happy with it?
Nice piece of work with Sketchup! It will allow you to make modifications and change the details.
If you are looking at purchasing SketchUp Pro I would recommend that you download the free version first and make sure that you like it. The Pro version doesn't add a whole lot of functionality. All you really get with Pro is Google Layout for creating the 2D prints. Im pretty sure I could have created something similar with other 2D software. I am pretty happy with SketchUp though. I started drawing a different plan in SolidWorks, which would have given me some more tools like structural analysis, but my laptop could not handle it. Here is as far as I got with it: (https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/House1-1.png)
I like that any changes that I make in SketchUp are automagiclly transfered over to the plans in Layout. The engineers at work draw 3D models in AutoDesk Inventor and have to redraw 2D prints in AutoCAD. This would drive me crazy, and I think I would give up. Another thing that I like about SketchUp is that there is a large community supported 3D warehouse. So if there are items that you want to use in your model like windows and doors, you can just grab them free from the warehouse.
Here are my new plans for our 24x32 cabin incase anyone is interested. We cut it down from around 1200sq/ft to about 770sq/ft. Oddly enough the cost of materials stayed pretty much the same. One thing that I did to cut down on cost was to change the beam seat that I had originally called out. I didnt realize how expensive the Simpson beam seat was that I had called out in the first plan. When I started looking at prices, those came to around $120 per piece. I decided to use a column seat similar to what Dug and Jenny used. These run around $30 a piece. This should save me almost $1500.
Here is the Layout file:
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4XXvNXEkQreZWUxZjQ0NzQtY2Q4My00OGM5LWFlY2MtOGI4M2M2M2JlMTQy (https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4XXvNXEkQreZWUxZjQ0NzQtY2Q4My00OGM5LWFlY2MtOGI4M2M2M2JlMTQy)
Here is the SketchUp 3D Model:
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4XXvNXEkQreZTJlNzMyZDQtMTFmMy00MWRlLThmZjYtNDA0NzRiYmJmNjZi
Here is the PDF:
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4XXvNXEkQreOTg4NGU1MzMtZWM2Ni00OWQwLWE4OWEtNGNhY2M2ZGZhMDZl
I stopped with the hinged gable framing, that needs to be balloon framed. I just wrote a little bit about this on another thread;
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=11513.new#new
Per DonP's request. My gable wall. Now with more balloon.
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/RaspberryCabinBalloonWall.jpg)
QuoteNow with more balloon
does that mean the middle of the gable end 2x6's are about 20' long?
QuoteHere are my new plans for our 24x32 cabin incase anyone is interested. We cut it down from around 1200sq/ft to about 770sq/ft.
Can you post some pics... at least the floorplan for everyone?
i really liked your layout at 40'. curious to see how you downsized. i'm not convinced yet on my layout... want 1 1/2 story, 3 br. do i put on on main floor and have 2 up and open ceiling on part... or none down and 3 up with a full layout upstairs... guessing that is what you changed.
1 br on mail floor would be nice as people get older too...
installing sketchup right now...
lastly... how long did it take you to make the plans? i look at the blank screen (in SketchUP) and stare as I cant quite figure out how to begin... whats the rough order that you went thru to make the SU plans?
It takes me about a week to complete each plan, but I only get a few hours of free time a day to work on them. I would say maybe 8-10 hours to do the whole thing. I usually start with the floor plan. Once I convince my wife to stop chaning her mind, I start drawing the floor joist and work my way up from the bottom. Drawing in SketchUp is nice because it is easy to move entire walls around.
When I am modeling, I draw everything with components. I create a component for every structural member, then copy it and scale it to fit my needs. SketchUp has some handy features that make it easy for drawing framing. For instance, after you move a stud 16" with the move command you can type in "x10" and it will repeat that move command 10 times. Now you have 10 studs, 16" OC.
(https://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/andrusmw/24x32FP_Page_01.png)
There are things about this plan that I still dont like. I dont like the inswing exterior door. By code it is required to have two enterances, but we probly wont ever use this one. We have talked about taking it out after the inspector signs off on the house. I do like that the wood stove is closer to the bedrooms. My big problem with the 20x40 was that the woodstove was on the other side of the house. I could see the upstairs rooms getting too cold,
Having two doors will not seem like such a bad thing when your house is on fire and the
fire is blocking your exit thru the front and only door. Please think about this and discuss it with your wife.
Bruce
Take a look at my options for placement of exterior doors. If the house is on fire and I need to get out, I have six other windows to choose from. I dont see how a door 10 feet from the other will give me much advantage.
Unless it's an ammendment R301 requires one egress door.
For the gable framing check table R602.3.1 you are outside of the footnotes but it's somewhere to start.
Thanks for the clarification Don_P. My thoughts were along the line of something
happening to make the door unusable such as a falling object due to the fire. The time it
takes to get through a window with jaged glass etc. can be an eterity.
I'd hate to hear of someone hurt or killed because of it. Not trying to give anyone a hard time.
Bruce
I'm certainly not saying I like it, just putting the minimum out there. Our bedroom is on the second floor with the woodstove wrapped by the stairs. The exit through any door would more than likely be blocked. We have a large horizontal sliding window in the room. The plan is to hang and drop... definitely not ideal.
I quickly ran the numbers on tall gable studs calling the wall 20' and using 20psf wind load... 2x6's @ 8" ctrs or 2x8's @ 16"oc. worked for me. On the current house I'm working on the porch roof and ceiling are providing diaphragm reinforcing to the tall wall, creating a deep beam on the outside rather than on the inside.
Hi Don,
You might want to keep a heavy object like a table lamp with a heavy base
near by the window, just in case the fire caused the wall to shift and jam the sliding
window. Not trying to be an alarmist here, it just poped into my head when I read your post.
I am a great admirer of all your posts!
Bruce
Well, I sent in my plans to the building inspector and his response was pretty positive. His biggest complaint is that I didn't have enough glazing(windows) in the living area. Easy fix. One thing that he wants me to do has me kind of scratching my head a little. He told me that he wants me to put down a layer of plastic inbetween the floor joist and the subfloor to keep moisture from getting down into the insulation. If I do this, I wont be able to glue the subfloor to the joist, so I am going to have to get some clarification on how he wants that done.
Usually the subflooring itself serves as a good vapor barrier on the floor system. If you have gross flooding of the floor above, the poly below the subfloor will not keep the insulation dry, only change (perhaps) where it gets soaked. If that is the goal then the film would be better placed between the sub and final flooring.