I have been reading everything for a few weeks. I wasnt going to start this thread for awhile but i figure i can always get responses to my ideas.
My wife and i currently have 13 wooded acres with a double wide in the lakes area of se tx. After a few properties with acerage we have decided we dont want to deal with so much land and pay taxes on it so we bought two lots in the ivanhoe lakes community a few months ago. Its 2/3 of an acre, mostly cleared. Has a water tap already at the street and a power pole with transformer right on the street.
im giving up some freedom by moving into there. Right now we have no building codes where we are. Ivanhoe doesnt really have codes but they do nickle and dime you to death with $10 permits (every car, a fence permit, out building permit, etc etc. ) i was talking to the inspector and he assured me he will want to see the foundation then i probably wont see him untill he inspects the plumbing and electric. Hes easy going and a nice guy.
we had our septic test done and was told we have perfect septic conditions. I can use a conventional septic with 180' of drain line if i remember right. I have a guy ready to put it in for $2300.
i drew up a house plan that ironicly turned out to be almost identical to the story and a half 20x30. Mine was 32 though. Im buying the plans for reference though. I had planned on three girders and see these plans call for twp so its already saved me the $100 the plans cost. Also i had planned to frame the loft as another deck on top of the walls but now i am considering balloon framing. I may raise the walls to 12' and go with a 6/12 pitch roof though. I plan on doing this all myself and i hate heights. Not real excited to do metal roofing on a 12/12 pitch. Also im restricted to 1000sq ft minimum so the loft will probably be extended to 20'. At least when i send the plans for approval, wether or not it end up that way is a different story.
my soil is all sand. I was planning to use the bigfoot systems bf24 8' apart along the two beams. One in the middle.on.each end wall and one dead center. (im considering a central support log and possibly a ridge beam for the cathederal cieling) those forms are $26 ea. I just had a business deal go south that was funding the septic and foundation. So now im considering wood post foundation. Thinking i might use 4x6 pt posts attached to a 16" square foot with four triangle braces. Then i might spray them with rubberized coating. We have no frost line, rarely gets below freezing for more then an hour or two. But we do have termites. Which is why i was considering concrete piers originally. But our uncles log house, hunting cabin and two other houses are all on wood post foundations.
So last week we went out and cleared a few trees that were in our way of where we want to start building. Four days later i can move again and i realized how long i have been out.of construction and had my fat butt in a seat driving truck.
The land the day we bought it
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-08-29132708.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-08-29132632.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-08-29132527.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-08-29132506.jpg)
after a little clean up.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-09-22144355.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-09-22144311.jpg)
this oak runs between 16 and 24". I cut it into 18' sections hoping i can get it milled into some ridge beams. If not then it will make nice flooring.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-09-22144254.jpg)
unfortunatly i have more then my share of trees that look like this
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-09-22144530.jpg)
This is my rough back of napkin sketch. Or back of insurance bill as case may be. It is to scale tho. Lol just not complete
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-09-26160043.jpg)
w*
congrats on starting your build! looking forward to watching you build.
nicely done on a good posting to photo ratio so far! :P
Thanks, im eager to get started. Plans are in the mail. Just have to tweek them a bit.
I found an old motorhome i can pick up cheap so im thinking i might just buy it, move out there and put the for sale sign on my house.
Looking forward to the rest of your build. We are in E. Texas as well (Lufkin) and our old Houston house just sold Friday. Over the next week I will be checking our credit and start looking for a land loan. Then we will buy the 2 story universal plan and get to work.
Where in East Texas are you?
My house now is north of woodville. The new property is south of woodville.
I'll sell you 13 wooded acres.with a spring fed pond and a double wide for $71k lol. There is enough timer on it to build 10 cabins
Hi CjAl,
I thank you for posting your build here and I'm sure your excited about the project.
I did what your thinking, I bought a motor home, put it on my land and then started to build using countryplans 20x30 1 1/2 story plans. Very many learning experiences trying to figure out all the different systems of the 1985 Fleetwood Pace Arrow motor home we bought for $3,200.
It looks like I'll be spending the first part of the cold weather here in this motor home, oh well, their pretty cozy though. I can walk out of the motor home and take 10 steps and be at my build.
All the best to you sir, thank you.
We dont have much of a winter here fortunatly. Im actually wishing winter would hurry up.so.i can start building. Im from wi originally and its too hot in tue summer to do much of anything. Winter here is like fall in wi. The build will be slow as money is very tight but i need to get it going as i dont know how much longer we will be able to live where we are.
I wanted to get out to the property yesterday but i ended up having to work on my old suburban. I got rid of my 2010 dodge two months ago to free up more money for the cabin. The payment was HUGE, more then my mortgage. But so far ive spent just as much getting the suburban running. It had been parked for two years. Yesterday i put a new grill and.lights on it and painted it all. The old lights were so bad the truck was undrivable at night. Its has 210k on it, i paid a grand for it and drove it two years. Ive replaced all the brakes, the exhaust and the grill and its the first money i have spent on it so i cant complain.
There is now more paint on the front end then the rest of the truck. Lol it suffers from early 90's gm.paint delamination. Since we like pics so much.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-10-02185011.jpg)
CjAl,
Thanks for the offer on the land but that would be too long of a comute for me. HA! I'm trying to keep it to 30 minutes or less. I think I could make it in from Zavalla in 30 minutes but not Woodville. I'm pretty sure that would take an hour.
It was only a half serious offer. My address is actually colmesneil. I say woodville because.whos ever hear of colmesneil.lol woodville isnt much better. Its 45 minutes to lufkin in my semi truck. I run port arthur to tulsa twice a week.
I could tell you were joking but we are looking for land right now. 45 minutes isn't too bad. I went to college in Beaumont and still have family in Port Neches. Right now I'm looking toward Nacognoches.
Mabey someone can help me with this.
Im considering stretching the walls to 12foot and using an 8/12 pitch. I dont like heights and my fat butt could get alot of speed going sliding down a 12/12.
Would i.need to change anything to strengthen the walls to make them that tall? The floor joist for the loft will be.as low as i can make them without bouncing my head off a ceiling fan, probably 7'6".
Im already planing to run a set of posts and beam.down the middle so.i can go down to 2x10 joists. And there will be a load bearing wall over that beam so i can go probably 2x8 on the loft floor joists. SO i might run a ridge beam but if i can get away without it i would like too, it would save me a rental fee on a hi lift
I think this has been discussed on this forum before. If I remember right if you go with 12' walls and you use a ridge board you have to go with a full loft over the intire house, you can not have a open cathedral ceiling over the living area. If you wan't the cathedral ceiling then you must use a ridge beam or engineered trusses.
A full length loft would be a second story. Lol i dont see how it would make a difference as long as you had the collar ties every four foot over the open area. Its a not a full cathederal i know but its close enough.
I have a 1000sq ft minimum so my loft will end up being very large already. Im looking at 640sq ft on the lower level so i need at least 18' of loft. I will probably end up at 20' with a section cut out for the stairs. That would leave two collar ties over the open area.
But if you can point me to a link that says otherwise i wohld appreciate it. I havent seen anything discussed about 12' , 2x6 walls.
I could also build the loft side walls platform style instean of baloon framing if it would help. That was my origional intention untill.i found this site which kind of sold me on baloon framing. Seems to me though the baloon framing would actually be better for the taller wall.
I think the collar ties work with 10' walls but not with 12' walls. Maybe Mt. Don or Peg can give you more info.
The maximum laterally unsupported wall height under IRC is ten feet. Taller than that requires an engineer. IRC Table R602.3(5)
Note: Collar ties are not rafter ties. Sometimes there is confusion between the two. Their jobs are different and not interchangeable.
Collar ties are placed in the upper third of the rafters. No lower than 1/3 down. Their job is to keep the roof peak tied together in high winds. Steel straps over the peak and nailed to the rafters can be substituted.
Rafter ties are placed in the lower third of the rafter. rafter ties frequently do double duty as ceiling joists. For that they are usually placed on top of the wall studs. Rafters and rafter ties must be well nailed (charts in the IRC) and there should be a solid (hurricane tie) connection to the supporting wall framing. There is no substitute for a rafter tie in a standard rafter roof. Dropped loft floor joists / ceiling joists do not qualify as a rafter tie. Note that as rafter ties move up to the maximum 1/3 height the rafters will have to be resized upwards. (charts in the IRC footnotes; always read the footnotes.)
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/construction/framing.jpg)
Quote from: MountainDon on October 03, 2011, 05:31:13 PM
Note: Collar ties are not rafter ties. Sometimes there is confusion between the two. Their jobs are different and not interchangeable.
Collar ties are placed in the upper third of the rafters. No lower than 1/3 down. Their job is to keep the roof peak tied together in high winds. Steel straps over the peak and nailed to the rafters can be substituted.
i realized i said the wrong term after i wrote it but i wasnt near my tablet to fix it. I did.mean rafter ties.
Btw i got my plans today.
Okay, great! I just don't like to let the wrongs terms slip by becuase it can cause great confusion.
The story and a half plans use the loft floor joists as rafter ties. You just said you cant do that? Care to clarify?
Or are you talking about platform framing?
I have 1/2 loft, 12 ft walls, balloon framed but engineered scissor trusses.
Could someone point me to a chart or something that can help me figure out what size.ridge beam i will need for a 20x34 with a central support.
I had found a 31' 1985 winebego that was described as having electrical problems for $1500. The problems consisted of the generator not trying to start remotely or crossover. Both of which im capable of fixing. i just called him back.and he sold it an hour ago. Im not happy today.
What a great deal that would have been!
I bought my 30' 1985 Fleetwood PaceArrow for $3,200 just some months ago and I thought that was a great deal. I redid the carb on its 454 and it turned out real nice. Its got a few small leaks at the roof but other than that, all systems go.
I am excited to see your building take shape beacuse from the sounds of it, my future plans sound about the same as yours. I am in E. Central TX and know all about that sand/clay/more sand lol
Take plenty of photos of your foundation if you can! ;)
Also, I have been looking into getting a fifth wheel for my project and just looking on craigslist I have seen a lot of very nice ones very reasonably priced, I would try stay away from those FEMA trailers though, a lot of places are trying to move those for dirt cheap.
I am probably going to buy a rv this weekend. Fifth wheels are pretty cheap if you have the truck to move one. I have a suburban not a pickup. I could move one with my semi but id like my wife to be able to hook it and move it if need be. Motor homes can be had at a steal once they hit a certain age. They are breaking down all the time mostly from sitting but they have generators already and.im not planning on moving it.
What town are you near? Im near woodville. I set up some batter boards last weekend. Im waiting on my tax return check to get the septic installed. My wife is calling the city today to ask some questions about foundation. I was planing to use the bigfoot systems, they are a bit spendy tho so i might just do post n beam. Im building in the ivanhoe lake comunity so unfortunatly i do have a few hoops to.jump through. Not many tho, they basicly just want a few bucks for permits for every little thing imaginable
im trying to stay away from the fema trailers. They have no waste tanks and they have alot of problems with air quality from cheap materials and no quality control. My wife has alergies which is one reason im building this cabin. Im going to try and build it with as alergen free as i can.
For doing a ridge beam calc take a look at Ilevel Forte software- its free and does most things you'll need for sizing
We just bought a 5th wheel for our property while we work through the foundation problems and start building
and I don't even have a car - just got a guy to deliver it to site, stuck it on timbers
Its a large toy hauler style with a garage and everything- its probably big enough that I actually never have to build anything
But we will slowly progress the project- living in comfort along the way
My problem is the lots.i bought are house only. I cant live on it in a rv. They allow it for a short time while building but its not long enough. So i need to be able to drag it out if something happens. I have a house on the other side of town so for now i.just want to be able and stay out there on the weekends while i work on the house so i dont have to be driving back and forth all the time. However i will probably be loosing my house at some point so i need options.
I found a guy in lufkin with 400 sheets of old rusty galvanized tin for sale. I want to do my roof in.that and use it for siding in the gable areas but i think my wife is less then impressed. She wants a nice new green metal roof. I love the look of the rusty old.tin. Plus its about 300% heavier then this new stuff is.
There's a certain something to be said for giving her the roof she wants.... ;D
There are different gauges for new materials; 29 is common but too light IMO; 26 is better and there is 24 wgich is usually heavier than most residential roofing. We used 26 over OSB. Good roof and my wife loves the color. :D Me too for that matter.
Happy wife, happy life. Im no dummy.
We had our tenth aniversary last week and id like a few more in the future. d*
I was down in Woodville for the heritage festival last weekend.
We will be finally looking at last this weekend. Once I start building you and I will have to help each other find the cheap stuff.
Austin
Lol. I will be calling you all when its wall raising day. And roofing day ;D
Quote from: CjAl on October 21, 2011, 08:39:12 AM
I am probably going to buy a rv this weekend. Fifth wheels are pretty cheap if you have the truck to move one. I have a suburban not a pickup. I could move one with my semi but id like my wife to be able to hook it and move it if need be. Motor homes can be had at a steal once they hit a certain age. They are breaking down all the time mostly from sitting but they have generators already and.im not planning on moving it.
What town are you near? Im near woodville. I set up some batter boards last weekend. Im waiting on my tax return check to get the septic installed. My wife is calling the city today to ask some questions about foundation. I was planing to use the bigfoot systems, they are a bit spendy tho so i might just do post n beam. Im building in the ivanhoe lake comunity so unfortunatly i do have a few hoops to.jump through. Not many tho, they basicly just want a few bucks for permits for every little thing imaginable
im trying to stay away from the fema trailers. They have no waste tanks and they have alot of problems with air quality from cheap materials and no quality control. My wife has alergies which is one reason im building this cabin. Im going to try and build it with as alergen free as i can.
Im in College Station, so about an 2 hours away, west, from woodville, there are some good travel trailers down in houston that I have seen that could be pulled by your suburban no problem. Probably alot more that I haven seen in my radius closer to you. but it all depends on how much you actually want to spend, there are cosmetically nicer ones around 3500-5000 or deer lease trailers that dont look that great but functional for 3500 on down.
I am in huntsvill right now. Not too far.from.you.
Problem right now is.its hunting season so what i consider to be deer lease campers (sub $1000) are all of a sudden being sold for $2500. But im not in a hurry and my cheapness is known world wide. Lol
Good point, nothing wrong with the classic tent camping :)
I dont suppose any of my TX neighbors have a mini excavator or backhoe and will travel? Lol
im waiting my my tax return to put the septic in. $2300 for the septic and $310 for the permit.
Spent the weekend cleaning up more on the land. Cut down more trees and cleaned it up. I sure hope we get more rain and this burn ban gets lifted. I have a huge slash pile that needs to be burned.
I started building a 10x10 shed. I had the lumber from a horse shed i took down after i got rid of the hay burners. Next weekend i hope to get it decked and get the walls up. Hopefully get started on the roof too.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-11-07131703.jpg)
Looks like a great start to a shed.
We just found our land up in Rusk ( will start my own thread soon ).
What all is included in the $2300 for the septic? How big of a tank? How many feet of field line? Sounds like a good price to me.
thanks
Austin
I forget exactly, the paperwork is qt home and im back on the road. I believe its a 500 gal tank amd 180' of lines. Its the minimum needed for two bedroom/ one bath house whatever it is, we have pure sand which is as perfect as you can get for drain lines from what the test guy told us.
Those portable buildings are flimsy and i cant rationalize paying over $2k for a 10x10. You can get them cheaper but they have 2x4 floor joists on 2 4x4 beams, 6' walls. Ive got 2x6 on three beams and will have 8foot walls so i can have room for loft storage. I have to have room for a washer and dryer, shower in there and possibly a toilet. We are getting a camper to stay in but at 6'2" and 350 lbs me and rv bathrooms dont get along well.
CjAl,
Thanks for the info. Once you get home, send me a PM with the specifics. I haven't priced anything around Rusk yet, but that sounds pretty good. I might want the guys contact info.
thanks again,
Austin
got the walls up on the shed last weekend. was planning to get it sided and get the roof on this weekend but my semi broke down and is in the shop. there goes the.money i had saved for a septic system.
I'm about to start getting bids. Who were you going to use?
thanks
Austin
there is a local guy who everyone in the family uses. id have to look up his name.
found out they want $5k to fix the egr in my truck. i dont have it so back to building and i will just drive the truck till it blows and thrn be unemployed. guess i better hurry up on the house. lol
home depot in lufkin has a porter pancake compressor on.sale for under $100. i have to run up there to pick my truck up from the shop so i am going to stop by and buy the compressor and a framing gun. my elbow hasnt forgiven me yet for all the hammering.
Thanks for the heads up! I will run by there later today as well. I think my sister has a framing gun I'm going to use.
well i went and got the compressor. i also picked out the rigid framing nailer. when.he was up on the ladder getting it down for me i saw one on the shelf not in a box and asked about it. it was a return that they sent off for reconditioning. he said alot of people buy tools then return them when they are done since home depot has a 30 day no questions asked return policy.
new it was $229, i got the recon for $159 and it still has its lifetime warrantee and 30 day return. i ran a full slide through it and had no problems what so ever
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-11-18161356.jpg)
note to self: when you take your 8yo to do some building you dont get anything done.
i used reclaimed lumber for the deck. the pressure treated beams were twisted and that front right corner dropped. i leveled the blocks for the flundation, i just need to jack that corner up and inch and put a shim in it. guess i should have just used new lumber. live and learn, at least its not the house
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-11-19153648.jpg)
i believe its time i replace my 1960's era black n decker worm drive saw. its so heavy and im not getting any younger. i lifted that thing so many times cutting rafters today that by the end i had to get a good swing going to hoist it up on the wood. :-[
i was really looking forward to getting some ice on my shoulder(the saw killed it) then i walk in the door and one of the stupid cats opened the freezer door and all the ice was melted. now.im stuck with a heating pad. >:(
Hey, but you're making progress ;D.
I feel your pain on the shoulder, I've been doing 4 ibuprofen 3 times a day for 2 weeks. Tripped and landed on the elbow and drove the shoulder up hard, I've got a feeling it isn't going to let me forget it for quite some time. Getting old sucks but it sure beats the alternative :D
I switched over to Makita sidewinders years ago when my wife started working, very good power/weight IMO.
i really hate trucking. i need a new job. 20 years of this and i cringe every time i have to go to work.
i have been working on a deal for a 30' pace arrow motorhome for a few weeks. he started at $7k, i got him down to $3000. i have a tax return check sitting here for $3003. but now i have to pay my heavy use tax which is a bs tax that nobody seems to know what its for anyways. and i have some repairs to make to the truck so there will be no motorhome.
i think there is a problem when after 20yrs in business your in worse shape than when you started.
i got out of o/o 3 yrs ago and never looked back. it was hard but i sure do love all the benifits that i have now at no cost to me for the entire family all 5 of us. good luck.
i should have started a building months ago and left the roof off. mabey our drought would have ended months earlier. still only have half the roof sheething up and its supposed to rain all week. d*
had to pay my $550 yearly hiway use tax this week, $350 oil change and i failed my dot inspection. going to cost me about $2500 for four tires and another grand in other minor repairs. so who wants to be a truck driver???
money is gone so starting my foundation is going to have to be pushed back :-\
oh btw, last week i took advantage of lowes black sunday sales.
no more daily use of the 100lbs circular saw
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-11-27165942.jpg)
N-I-C-E!
Hey, CJ, if you'd be so kind, let me know how you like that circular saw.
I'm shoppin' for a battery powered one, but with left side view, but my experience (years ago now) was the batteries pooped out way too soon, and seemed to bog down a bit at times. I'm hopin' things have changed since then.
Really enjoy reading your thread, as your experiences are pretty close to my wheel house.
Keep a fire
i will. i havent used it yet, hope.its good. i used to have an 18v dewalt that wasnt bad as long as you cut straight. if you had to start leaning o. it one way or another from going off line it would bog down. they do use the battery power tho and i dont have a fast charger for these yet.
i know i really like the drill so far. i can not grab it and stop it by hand and im no weakling. i was worried sindlce black n decker ownes them now and i have one of their 18v drills thats useless. think its 150in lbs of d*torque. the porter is 470 if i remember correctly.
i am trying to get out and lay my last three sheets of roof sheething before the rain starts tonight but my wife decided to go to bed. i drive my semi out there because i have a large power invertor for power, she has to drive my suburban because all my tools are in it. d* d*
i just ran out and tore the invertor out of the truck so i can hook it up in the burb. think im headed out there alone now.
Rain???!!!
SW Texas?!
Enjoy
southeast texas
i live 30 miles from louisianna in the woods. west tx is a little too brown for my tastes. up untill last month we hadnt had but a few inches of rain in the last 12 months. i think we were something like 50" behind on rainfall last i heard. the lakes were empty, they are starting to fill back up now so i can go fishing again as soon as i find where i put my dynamite.
i used the saw today but not much. it cuts good but like i said if you lean on it to one side or the other much it will stop. dont know about battery life as i only cut two sheets of plywood in half.
btw. i bought 6 sheets of half inch plywood for the roof. it is possibly the worst plywood i have ever seen. i really dont want to use OSB on the house but if i cant find better plywood than this i am going to have to.
and after climbing on the 10/12 pitch roof on the shed i am seriously considering using 12' walls and doing a 6/12 or 7/12.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-12-03153753.jpg)
at least i got the sheething on the roof. no felt or metal though. i might run out in the moring and put a tarp over it. i had to do this myself as my wife was at home. so i was beat after lifting it up there myself
i have two windows i salvaged off my old storage bldg when the tree fell on it. i just have to cut the siding out and put them in, openings are already framed
O-h-h-h-h, SE........
Wife is from Port Arthur, Beaumont area....born in Texas City.
Beautiful down there.
Yeah, when the rains come , they come all at once down there it seems.
Not like the 12 month drizzle we get here.
Some acquaintances of mine near Corpus Christi have been talkin' about severe drought in their area....hard for me to imagine
Great progress today...you gotta be spent....made me thirsty just thinkin' about it
my wife is from groves which is right down there by port arthur. i load at the port every week. i am a yankee WI boy but ya gotta love a TX girl.
right arm
been lovin' mine for 42 yrs
i guess i am a rookie. i only have 13 years in.
Well, you should be fully cured from your northern ways by now, and probably don't even know that now you have a bit of a southern drawl
Note; the next 30 years gradually get even better and better.
she may not have come out to help with the roof but she had a big ol pot of chicken and sausage gumbo ready when i got home so its hard to be mad.
i woke up to rain so i guess i get to be lazy today
Enjoy it all, CJ, that's what them Texas gals do to/for ya.
getting a little closer on the shed.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-12-12162647.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2011-12-12162811.jpg)
i need to cut three more gable end studs and blocking to go between the rafter at the wall, felt and metal on roof, box out that front overhang then trim it all out. i have it everything to finish except time. i am not cutting out the openings for the windows untill we are living on site.
oh btw gary. the saw eats batteries. mabey lithium would be better, i dont know. the saw works good just doesnt last long. if you have a fast charger its fine tho. also the left hand view saw is more of a pita then i thought it would be. having a hard time getting used to that
Went out yesterday to finish the roof on the shed but i wasnt feeling it so instead i set up batter boards and strun it off. We got a few holes dug for piers. My wife is going to see how many more she can get dug while i am on the road this week. Altho if it doesnt stop raining i may not get my truck out of the driveway in the morning. Dont need any more tow bills.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2012-01-08141345.jpg)
Does anyone have any reference material on how to frame a gambrel roof?
here ya go! http://bit.ly/x3TQbw
goes to a search results page
I already did that. The vast majority is people building those site build trusses with the joints fishplated with plywood. Is something like that sufficient for a house even if we dont get snow loads?
For my "barn" I needed a second floor but not a cathedral in the gambrel. I ran a rafter tie as the second floor ceiling joist across at the pitch break, forming a stable triangle up top. The steeply angled "walls" of the gambrel support that upper triangle. The joint where upper rafter/lower rafter/ceiling joist comes together is plywood gusseted.
Another way this was built is to run 2 support beams down the building under the pitch transition on either side that support the joint.
Ya this is more what i was thinking
(http://pic90.picturetrail.com/VOL2152/3975824/18470033/390535731.jpg)
I guess since half of the 32' length of the house will be open cieling then i would have to run beams under the pitch break to run supports up?
My thinking here is this would be an easier roof to do myself. Not the framing but the sheething and roofing. I really am not up to doing a 10/12 or 12/12 pitxh myself which i would need for headroom in the loft. The lower pitch at 24/12 i figure i could do from a scaffold and lean out enough to reach the top then the upper pitch at 4/12 i can easily walk on.
Am i way off base here?
You'll end up on the steep pitch, it's too far to lean with a sheet but it is easy to scaffold onto a steep pitch, similar to an A frame. The purlin beams under the pitch break do need support all the way down to ground.
perhaps the gambrel isnt a good idea with wanting to keep the cathederal type cieling in half the house. supporting the pitch break would take some good sized beams i dont want to spend the money on.
btw i have been away for a while. my truck died, i had to find and buy another one. between the down time and the costs of getting another truck up and running ate up every bit of my savings so work pretty much stopped. i am starting to see some cash flow now so i went out and finished up the shed this weekend. i just need my wife.lisa to get a coat of paint on it so i can trim it out.
my wife did go out and hand dug the 15 holes 4' deep for the piers.of course since i couldnt afford the concrete and we had some good rains they are all back to 3 foot now. shes not happy. lol. i am having the water meter put in as soon as they can get to it and then we will start pouring piers.
Lisa, I'm impressed [cool] Sorry that the rain undid some of your work, hopefully the ground will be a lot softer when you have to take that extra foot of dirt out [waiting]
if i was to use wood posts instead of concrete piers would creosoted wood last longer then pressure treated? or is that not a good idea? i have access to it.
painting sucks
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/shed.jpg)
we have been ready to start the concrete piers for a few weeks now but we keep getting messed around wity by the water company. we have a box all we need is the meter installed but after two weeks now they saw they cant find our property d*
went to homedepot to buy the simpson brackets for the beams to the concrete piers. holly molly!!! over $21ea for 6". i needed 15, plus 15 j bolts with washers and nuts, box of galvanized nails for the air nailer and i am over $4 00 lighter and didnt even buy any concrete yet. actually i bought ten 6" brackets and five 4" for the center beam.
i was going to go start the pier work today but its 95 degress outside right now. i will probably try to get out there early tomorrow before it gets too hot and try to get a couple footings and piers poured. our water is SUPPOSED to be hooked up. after two months of fighting it better be.
just got back from the land. no water. . . >:(
someones going to get hurt
well i waited untill its 100 degrees outside to start concrete. i got a little more then half way done, 8 of the 15. actually i went out yesterday and set up the canopy and got two piers done so i did 6 today. i had to redig all the holes. half were way off and i had to fill the holes and redig them. the other half i was able to just dig down one side or the other, compact the bottom and pour. the holes are 4' from the string, that makes the shallowest one two and a half feet in the dirt. the bottoms are dug out bell shaped to 16-18" wide. poured a foot thick footing tyen came up with 8" tubes. three pieces of i think nuber 4 rebar in the tubes and three across the footing. and wow does it take a lot of concrete. i think i am up to 30 80#bags so far.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2012-06-10183245.jpg)
oh ya, had a huge fire to tend to all day in that 100 degree heat too
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2012-06-10183207.jpg)
Progress is GOOD! Concrete never goes as far as you think it will.
Austin
we are done with concrete. . . . . and i forgot to take a picture.
on to wood next weekend. finally
Looking forward to seeing the wood going together. Upward and onward.
would i be stupid to build 2x4 walls? i know almost noyhing is built with 2x4 these days but everything was for a long long time. i want to run 2x2 strips horrizontally on the inside of the studs to break up the thermal bridging of the studs. so there would be the same insulation as a 2x6 stud.
i could do it with 2x6 studs too but on a 20x 32' cabine every inch eats into very precious square footage
this is the write up to blame for getting me thinking of this
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Conservation/MooneyWall/MooneyWall.htm (http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Conservation/MooneyWall/MooneyWall.htm)
I'm think that the effort output by strapping the inside of 2x4 walls then the cost of blowing in insulation, would well superceed 2x6 walls and batt insulation. You say every inch matters and I agree as I am building a 16x24 storey and a half but the 2x2 strapping on the inside is going to chew up the same space as the 2x6. If your not wiring it yourself the extra costs for the electrician to block each box should be factored in there as well.
Remember KISS it is very easy when we get gung ho to over complicate things. Remember you are just starting your build as am I there seems to be plenty of time reading others threads to overcomplicate our builds at times :) The theory is so-so but do it traditional either 2x4 or 2x6 would be my recomendation.
i can decide down the road to do it or not as long as i decide before i put in electrical boxes. the article says that in a 2x4 wall you fit in an r19 (i read this a few weeks ago so my numbers may be off a bit) but when you factor in the thermal bridging of the studs it drops to like r4 or 6. by doing the 2x2 horizontally on 4' centers it brings you back up near r18. that seems worth it to me. i live in south tx and spend a fortune on air conditioning.
plus i plan to use verticle wood for interior paneling so i will need some horizontal strapping of some sort anyways.
i am really just concerned with wether or not i am giving up much strength if i go to 2x4 instead of 2x6 if they are both on 16" centers. i am an hour and a half away from the gulf of mexico but the ocasional huricane still makes it up that far. rita and ike both messed us up pretty good in recent years
i am doing this ALL myself. the hoa requires plumbing and electric to be done by a licensed contractor but there is people around who will allow me to do the work, check it out and if okay they sign off on it. the rules really arent ever enforced in this community anyways.
there is a storm brewing in the gulf. it might mess up my plans to get my beams together and start the deck this weekend
I had the same processes over the last month without the obvious hurricane thoughts. Our minimum code here is 2X4 and afer looking at everthing last weekend I made the move to 2x6. It does require some more muscle to lift the walls, however, you can find a million cheats to lighten the load from lift devices to smaller sections secured together or whatever have you. But the 2x2 horizontal may reinforce your 2x4 strength I would have to refer to someone with a whole lot more experience then myself. Looking forward to the pictures as you move on upward.
well i got my first water bill today. $48 for 5-4-12 thru 6-4-12.
my meter was hooked up on 6-5-12 d*
if any of you have the pleasure of dealing with monarch water out of houston you have my deepest sympathy. the lake community sued them last year for price gouging and double billing. we have had a blast this far just getting the water hooked up because we refused to give them our social security numbers.
they tried saying the billing starts when they recieve the contract which was middle of may. that would be fine if they would have installed our meter then like they were supposed to. instead i showed up at the site on the third of june with concreate and found no water.
they werent budging either untill my wife started spouting passages of deceptive business practices act and a few other legal things i dont understand. they chamge their mind fast when they are facing another lawsuit. 25 years in the legal field has its advantages i guess
Typical municipal and utility BS. I had a similiar scenario with the county tax office I live in. My residential property tax was $2300 then they dinged me a $384 urban service rate(sidewalks, lights, sewer) and then $284 for garbage pickup... my question to the lady was what the hell was the $2300 for then if I get surcharged everything else... needless to say I lost that battle but she sure knew my feelings by the end of the converstion. The ups and downs of life.
i would take a municipality any day. they privatized our water.
i ordered the lumber for my beams. that was a quick $700. had to run out and put up an address sign for the delivery guys. couldnt help take a few pics
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2012-06-26123714.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2012-06-26123458.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2012-06-26123534.jpg)
this is harder work then it looks. just me and my wife to haul the PT 2x12's and of course since i had them delivered i got a bunch of cupped and warped boards.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2012-06-30165326.jpg)
i cant believe i slept untill 9:30 this morning, i am the 5am kinda guy. they had fireworks over the lake last night.so we stayed and watched them. this morning my head feels like i was drinking last night. its raining and i cant find my 18" C clamp that i need to squeeze the cupping out of a few of these 2x12's so i guess i will make the 30mile trek to lowes for some clamps and a few other things. hopefully by then the weather and my head will clear up.
Beautiful lake - can you see it from you place? (can't remember) Do you get a lot of rain there? Looking forward to updates on your progress!
we are not lakefront we are on the other side of the road. you can kind of see it across my neighbors property but it would be much better if he would cut all them pesky trees down! :-\
we average 57" of rain anually, we are thrity miles from louisianna so this is the woods, lakes and swamp area of tx not the dry and brown desert part.
looks like i wont get my beams done untill next weekend or later. rain yeasterday and today lisa doesnt feel good enough to help me lift the beams. i just have to square up the two i have, screw them into the brackets and build the center beam
Quote from: CjAl on July 02, 2012, 11:31:40 AM..... doesn't feel good enough to help me lift the beams. .
Are you building the beams in place, on the piers where they will sit? Easier that way.....
Quote from: MountainDon on July 12, 2012, 06:40:29 PM
Are you building the beams in place, on the piers where they will sit? Easier that way.....
yes i am but even just a single 2x12x16 pressure treated is hard to manage by myself without wearing myself right out.
i had wanted to get started on building the deck last weekend but it rained about 5" a day each day i was home this weekend. the extended ten day forcast showes rain every day. perhaps i should have built an ark instead
question:
do tye rim joists simply get nailed into the endgrain of the joists?
it was 100 degrees outside today. work was a lot slower than i would have liked.
child labor is great
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2012-07-27170410.jpg)
my wife is the best. shes a tough one, then again she was raised here in this heat. i am a wimpy yankee
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2012-07-27173455.jpg)
been working with just my son so far today. lisa gets off work in a few minutes and will head out. knocked out a good bit of floor joists before i decided to hide in the semi truck and soak up the air conditioning. i may just sneak in a mid day nap untill it drops below 100.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2012-07-28134917.jpg)
subfloor tomorrow
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2012-07-28200838.jpg)
this is a lake community so there is people driving buy in golf carts all day watching us build. i noticed that there is 3 in perticular who come by all the time. i realized that every time theydrove by i was sitting in a chair kicked back with my feet up watching my wife work. probably not a great first impression
HA! That is funny. I don't know how I would feel about people watching me build. One thing I like about our spot is no one can see us in the summer (not even from the road), and only one house can see us in the winter. My 9 year old helps a bunch and the wife is there is help lift walls but I do take lots of breaks where I retire to the AC in the camper. IT IS HOT OUT THERE!
Austin
Also, looks like you have been shopping at the home depot. I have the same box of nails and same compressor. HA!
as a matter of fact i almost never go to home depot. the closest one is lufkin about an hour away. but i did get that compressor there. it was on sale for like $90 last year, i couldnt resist. it doesnt keep up with the nail gun though.
i usually buy from parkers here intown. its five miles from the land and they are almost always cheaper then lowes. today i picked up 12 sheets of subfloor, parkers only carries advantec which i know is great stuff but it is $26 per sheet. the osb trufloor lowes carries is $17. plus parkers is closed sundays. i drove to lowes and got 12 because its as much as i want to haul in my suburban at one time. it needs tires bad. i just got home a few minutes ago and looked at the reciept and they only charged me for four sheets. now thats a discount! if only it would happen tomarrow when i go back for the other ten sheets
floor is done. just have to rip down a few 2" pieces of subfloor for the outer edge.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/done.jpg)
Been almost a month since your last post. Here pretty soon we will have some cooler weather. That should be about the time I'm working inside.....figures. When are the walls going to be up?
i have had a bad month. had to put new tires on my suburban and work.isnt what it should be. i.am looking for someplace else to lease my truck on to. i am thinking of going into oversize and super load trucking.
started walls today but i am sick as a dog, didnt get much done.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2012-09-02182103.jpg)
you see my little msg to the city. our lake community turned itself into a city but.its the most disorganized bunch of yahoo's you will ever see. they left me a stop work order for no permit. i have the permit but they lost all the paperwork. buncha idiots, as you see i didnt stop. they also have no way to inforce anything
What is the last word on your message to the city? I can't make it out ???
Any permit work I have done required a copy of the permit to be displayed on site. That may not be the case in your location, but displaying a laminated copy at the work site may deliver better results than your current message. Totally get your frustration though...
the last word is records. everyone in the community hates the city. all the neighbors thought it was funny. personally i wouldnt have done it, my wife did. we made new friends though from everyone stopping by to tell us their horror stories with the city. lol
the permit is a joke. there is a permit number but no rules or.anything. it doesnt have to be displayed but it could be. it also has no experation or anything listed but yet they are trying to say it needed to be dried in within 180 days. i barely started the pier work by then
I'm a very organized person (or like to think I am) and would end up having a big problem dealing with a group like that. Sorry you are so sick and having trouble with work (or lack there of).
Austin
i havent given up on my cabin. i have had some huge financial setbacks. i am sick of trucking and the ups and downs (mostly downs) so i have put my truck up for sale. if it sells i hope to have enough left over to dry in the cabin. it still sits as last pictured but much more weathered.
my house is being forclosed on at the end of the month so i just went home and moved all my belongings out to the cabins property. i picked up an old but very nice motorhome for $3k so we will be living on site. i will be getting the build back on track very shortly. the motorhome is a 78 pace arrow 28'. it has a 6.5kw generator and everything works, good roof and two brand new air conditioners. we are working on getting power put in now.
here is the old rv
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/camper.jpg)
it was a ton of fun moving my 18x24' carport out to the property
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2013-01-20132800.jpg)
CjAl,
I'm sorry about your troubles. When one door shuts.........
Austin
the last two years have been a very trying time. all i can do is.put my head down and.keep walking into the storm. eventually you have to come out the other side.
we are now living here full time. today i got the front wall stood up. bit off a bit more then i could chew. the back wall i built in two parts and it went up with the two of us no problem. the front wall i compleately built and we couldnt budge it. two hours, lots of blocking, a tractor jack and a jeep with a winch and we got it up (almost lost it back over the other side)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2013-02-09165706.jpg)
and while i worked Lisa played
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/2013-02-09170327.jpg)
CjAl,
I'm sorry to hear about your setbacks.
It is good to see that you and your family are working on your place again. Hang in there - as you said if you keep pushing forward you will eventually prevail.
I am oficially unemployed. The truck and trailer are gone and i am looking for a job. I applied for a cdl delivery driver at the local lowes. Doesnt pay anything but i need health insurance and hopefully i can get some decent discounts if they hire me. Had one interview today and have a second tomorrow.
I had ebough money when i quit trucking that i was able to buy some lumber. I now have all the exterior walls framed except where i need to buy some 2x12 for headers over the bump outs. If i get this job i will buy some loft floor joists and get them in so i can start the rafters.
Has anyone else noticed the increase in lumber prices? I swear my end walls cost more to build then the front and back.
Anyways here is where we are at.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20130324_170835.jpg)
Good job on moving forward. Look ahead. That is pretty much all you can do.
I have been building a cat house today. I would much rather be working on my house but i am holdingnoff on buying the expensove 2x12s and the 20' long loft floor joist untill i know if i have a job or not. If not i will be needing the money to feed the family. But we have 6 cats and thats about 5 too many for a motor home and its getting expensive running back to the old house every day to feed them. Other then the cats we are full time living here in the motorhome.
After two years of refusing to take a short sale on the old house and putting it up for auction twice and it not selling the suddenlydecide they want us to show it and sell it and they will take a short sale. Go figure.
So if anyone wants a real nice 13 Acres fully wooded with a run down double wide on it i can get you a deal if you dont mind the extensive cleanup required and the trailer park next door. Lol
Btw
I cut down a large pine tree right behind the house. I want to peel it and use part of it in the house.
Is there wa way to get this thing to stop pouring out sap? Does it just take time for it to stop or what? Its been on the ground about a month. I peeled a small section yesterday and today its covered in sap. Would it help if i cut it to the length i need? Right now its a full tree laying on the ground because cutting it down killed my chain saw
It sure is nice being home. I got a job with lowes in jasper doing deliveries but it is taking them forever to get me signed on. I sure could use some money.
Water is getting warmer, the bass are waking up
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20130416_192748.jpg)
I got the log i am going to use for my central support mostly peeled i just need to getbit cut to length, peel the very bottom of it and getbit in the house.
My subfloor is getting soft on me. I believe i need to put a second layer of subfloor down under the log and eventuall the whole floor. The money problems has caused me a lot of problems with this build. I wish i had gotten the roof on before my business went to heck.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20130414_140757-1.jpg)
Not much work has gotten done but I have been working on the log for this the center support and I started cutting beams for the loft floor joists with my chainsaw mini mill from the other logs I have left .
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20130422_122332.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20130428_093027.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20130508_115252.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20130508_132441.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20130508_115231.jpg)
It's dirty work
Hi CjAl - how do you like your chainsaw mill? I was thinking of getting one to make use of some recent deadfall, rather than letting it all rot. Thanks!
Those timbers came out very nice looking-----not dusty at all ::)
How long did it take to mill the three ?
I was surprised how nice they turned out. Setup of the first cut is crucial. This isn't really intended for making that firstcut it thisk kin but you see how I did it. I am sure they would much rather you but the $300 Alaska mill to slab the first cut or two but I wasn't doing
They sell a ripping chai . That they say will cut better and faster. I just used a new chain is had and it cut just fine on my 64cc stillwith 20'' bar. Every cut got a little rougher so keep it sharp. By the end of the day yesterday I was getting pretty rough cuts but for me that's fine. We wanted thatrough cut look
I finished them up today. Stacked to dry a bit more. I was amazed how wet they still are in cut that tree down a long time ago.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20130509_122716.jpg)
And few of these beams have holes from insects. Does anyone know what I can spray down into the holes to make sure Ihave killed any insects that may be in them ?
Now to try and find beam hangers for rough cut beams
Quote from: CjAl on May 09, 2013, 02:59:26 PM
Does anyone know what I can spray down into the holes to make sure Ihave killed any insects that may be in them ?
Borate. Whatever that is :D I remember that word for some reason; read it in a couple of posts some time ago. Don_P would be the expert I think. Hopefully he'll see this question. A search on the word Borate here does bring up several hits.
Now that you mention it in believe he has told me that before. Wonder if Ican find some at lowes
Quote from: UK4X4 on May 09, 2013, 12:40:25 PM
Those timbers came out very nice looking-----not dusty at all ::)
How long did it take to mill the three ?
The first two logs Igot three out of each one aalthough had to take some bark edge in order to get three from the second one on the top end it got a bit narrow. The other two logs I got two each from. I have two more smaller logs I will keep for later, may just slab them up if Idecide to buy tthe Alaska mill.
The first two logs probably took an hour and a half to mill up but the initial setup took me a while to figure out how I wanted to doit. The two other logs took about an hour. Each ten foot cut takes probably 4 minutes. Could probably do it faster but don't want to kill my saw. Already killed one last month. Think cuts are MUCH faster then thick ones. A few I just barely shaved the bark off and that took less then a minute
I haven't been around much. After I sold the business I got my cell phones shut off which was also my internet. Just now getting things back together. Havn't done a whole lot but that seems to be the story of my life. I have done what I can for free or cheap. Hopefully this coming friday I will be buying the lumber for my ridge beam, rafters and sheething.
here are some pics of what Ihave been up to.
stained the beams. it is only a medium walnut but the rough cut sucked up like a sponge and it's a bit darker then I anticipated. will look good against the blond floor boards though.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20130525_190836.jpg) (https://s170.photobucket.com/user/CjAl1/media/20130525_190836.jpg.html)
got one coat of danish oil on my log but it needs a few more. got it stood up with the winch on my jeep and lots of bracing. went better then I expected.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20130611_190555.jpg) (https://s170.photobucket.com/user/CjAl1/media/20130611_190555.jpg.html)
noptched the sides of the log to accept two of the beams
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20130614_183203.jpg) (https://s170.photobucket.com/user/CjAl1/media/20130614_183203.jpg.html)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20130614_191329.jpg) (https://s170.photobucket.com/user/CjAl1/media/20130614_191329.jpg.html)
Looks cool! Do whatcha can, when you can.
I have been fighting warping and twisting lumber. being up this long and exposed to the elements has not been good. I have ratchet straps pulling and pushing things in place as I continue to build untill it all gets locked into place. even used the jeep inch a few times.
got some of the rafters in today. I have about half the sheething for the roof ready to be put up also.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/note2001.jpg)
slow slow slow
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/note2005.jpg)
I feel ya man..going slow does add extra time and sometimes stuff has to be replaced.. It just kinda is what it is. it seems as if there is always something needed to get done to slow some kind of damage being caused by not having things completely wrapped up. At least if you can just get the shell closed in that should help a great deal! Like the logs .... I see one person if another thread (forget which one) who put a giant tarp over the whole thing. I think that is a great idea..figure tarp costs a few hundred BUT saves so much in the way of doing things over and damage . He had trees next to his foundation. Smart feller :D
actually money is my problem time isn't. As of right now I have all the rafters up except the barge rafters which My wife decided she couldn't handle helping me with so I need to find a better way of doing it and mabey by myself. I have half the OSB for roof sheathing but I need the other half. I don't like osb and don't want to use it but it's $9.99 a sheet compared to $17.99 a sheet for 7/16 plywood. Right now it would cost me more to put tarp up then it would to buy the other half of the sheething and tar paper. I'm on a 6 day stretch at work and after delivering appliances all day I can't come home and work on the house so I'm affraid this is where I am at for the next two weeks when I get paid again and have a two day weekend.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/IMG_20130811_152531.jpg)
My barge rafters are 18" out from the end of the house. I am using 2x6 and I attached the 2x4's to them figuring I could slide them out the outer rafter in the notches and nail them off to the second rafter. My wife can't hold the weight and support herself enough to feel safe so does anyone know a better way?? if I take the 2x6 off the 2x4's and nailt he 2x4's into place will it be strong enough for me to put the sheething on and then hang off the end to nail the 2x6 on? now I must admit I weigh 360lbs so I am less then enthused about this idea
oh and yes my subfloor is lost. I have several holes in it at this point
I don't know, I'm less than half that so tearout is a big consideration but that also means you're stronger. While the assembly is still together can you nail a 2x6 flatways to the top of the second rafter forming an angle iron facing out toward the overhang. Set the barge on the notched rafter, lookouts aligned with their notches and hanging down. Now start sliding the barge out and tipping it till the lookouts are sliding on the underside of the second rafter. When the lookouts get to the edge of the second rafter outer face gently let themslide up that face till the lookouts rest against that flatways 2x6 nailed to the top of the second rafter and nail the lookouts off to the 2nd rafter. If anything gets away from you throw the whole assembly out away and go take it apart on the ground, don't let it drag you off.
Now, here's how I've done it. Like you're suggesting nail the individual 2x4's into their notches and into the second rafter forming a ladder. I climb the area just over the notches, not trusting the end nails in the second rafter not to break out and not going outboard far at all. But, if you run a scrap 2x under the lookouts on the second rafter and nail it in well you should be able to dance on the area between the rafters. I usually run my lookouts a few inches long, measure out on the top and bottom lookouts and pop a line then saw them in a straight line in air... non osha. Another way is to block a stringline on the second rafter and brace it in a straight line and then use your precut lookouts, make a mark for layout of the notched rafter on each lookout to keep it straight. Make sure you nail the lookouts to the second rafter square.
A couple of blocks nailed on top of the fly rafter that will rest on the lookouts will replace your wife holding out there in space. I have done like you're talking about and sheathed first, nailed toeboards on the roof and leaned over to nail the fly on, didn't much care for it, you're deflecting things while trying to get it all up. but it can be done.
One word of caution when using a gun leaning out to nail the fly on, the muzzle is pointing in a bad direction and it is very easy to double fire and shoot yourself. She pulled the nail out of herself and kept shooting, and people are afraid of my dog ;D
The subfloor, just put another layer over it when your dried in, screw and offset seams.
Wish you were here, tomorrow will be day 2 of trying to get brake and clearance lights on this Mack working d* I thought cars were bad, besides wiring there's a mile of airline behind the dash too.
Edit, Yaay, end of day 2, found the brake light switch, air activated, had died, a local truck repair shop had a working one. The clearance and tail lights, well I moved the terminal box in the back and water ran out, a mass of corrosion. Took a couple of hours to redo that, a tube of dielectric grease and a tube of RTV to seal the terminal block and we're up and running. I think I even got the seat to stay pumped up [cool]. Lord there's alot to go wrong in a big truck.
got to love working on old trucks. they love those push connectors for air lines behind the dash and they all leak eventually.
sorry I havn't had internet much. Lowes just about starved my family, almost got real bad and at the last minute I got a call from the new German Pellet mill they just built in town about 5 mi from my house. I am now running 3 loads a day from woodville to port of port arthur (when they can keep the mill and silo's running) so it has doubled my income so I am finally back in the game but still getting caught up.
managed to FINALLY the the roof rafters and sheeting up and it's tar papered. I had it all done except the middle row last weekend and now it poured rain for two days and I was off work. All I could do was look out the window and watch my osb and house get soaked. but it's done now. Now I save up for the metal for the roof. Silo has been broke down for last 4 days so paycheck may not be enough this week.
I managed to get a kid I was working with at Lowes to help. Paid him $200, he likes heights and I hate them. he's like a spider monkey up there. i cut and handed sheets up and supervised him, he nailed them off and papered it. He's a hard working kid I'd pay him more if I had more
I am going to buy some scaffolding next week and we will hand the barge rafters and drip edge then get started on the metal. it's not been fun working around all the twisted wood from being out in the rain and now I'm going to need about 5 gallons of bleach to spray all the wood down
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/018.jpg) (https://s170.photobucket.com/user/CjAl1/media/018.jpg.html)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/016.jpg) (https://s170.photobucket.com/user/CjAl1/media/016.jpg.html)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/013-1.jpg) (https://s170.photobucket.com/user/CjAl1/media/013-1.jpg.html)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/011.jpg) (https://s170.photobucket.com/user/CjAl1/media/011.jpg.html)
Glad to see you have another job and back making some $$$. Try and stay positive. [cool]
Looking good. Really coming together! It doesn't matter how long it takes as long as you are moving in the right direction.
Austin
Ya my new job. Lol
The silos at the port broke down then the mill started on fire. I javent eorked in five days andonly got one run s day the four days before that. Oh well its all new technology so ot has some bugs to work out.
I am hanging shesthing as I spesk, pictures later
This is where I am now. Going to get the sheathing for the back wall todsy then I need to go buy some scaffold. Work is supposedly starting back up tomorrw.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/IMG_20130925_184629.jpg)
Look ma, no doors!
With being off work almost two weeks it looks like It will be a month before I can buy metal now.the tar paper is vonstantly coming loose.
Anyone know if it would be a problem if I rolled out house wrap over it and stapled i down? Would I have to remove it befor I put the mmetal roof on?
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/IMG_20130928_074739.jpg)
As long as the house wrap / roof wrap was covered with the roofing before the "exposure to UV/weather" time elapsed you're good to go. Keep in mind that regular house wrap maybe be slippery; there are special textured roof underlayments available. We have used UDL Titanium and it is nice stuff.
I don't know about staples though unless you use those "tin hats" under them. Our home re-roof ran into weather related issues, and the UDL was fine when nailed down with button caps.
It would only be a month and the idea mainly was to cover the tar paper to slow down its degredation
Well it has been a long road but the roof is on. I still have to put the gable end trim on but it's dry.
Now I just have to frame out the bump outs, frame the gable walls and finish the sheeting up there and get some French doors. Then I can start the plumbing and electrical. I have a tax return coming that's is going to pay for my septic
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20131026_160335.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20131026_123809.jpg)
I remember the happy feeling of the last sheet of roofing, congrats!
Thanks! I still have to go around the end of the sheets and put the screws in the edge. My helpers leash wasn't quite long enoughto let him reach them. I bought some scaffold yesterday so iin will get on that. Still have to put the gable end trim on too. Work has been going full on. I tried to take this weekend off to work on it but called in both days.
Igot a 6' sliding doors new for $100 off a local Site that's kind of like Craigslist. I got it half installed before it got too dark last night.
I got the front bedroom bump out framed in and two windows installed in it. Pics to come
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20131111_090824.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20131111_090732.jpg)
There is no roof over the bump out because there is going to be a front porch and I plan to run it up to the rafters. Mabey I will throw something up temporarily
Looks good. Where did you get the metal and how much was it. Gotta love staying dry!
I bought the metal at Parkers lumber. It's just galvanized but it's what I wanted anyways. That or white. The sheets are 14' which they had in stock. Just under $25 per sheet. 24 sheets cost something like $560. Then there was another $400 in screws, gable end trim and ridge cap
Are you doing anything with your property dablack?
I got one gable end framed today, no sheeting. I never get done what I think I will. We spent a good bit of time finalizing our thoughts on layout, electrical box location etc. I still need to frame the kitchen wall between the bathroom and kitchen, Ineed some 2x4 for that all iI have is
I think I have decided rather then laying another layer of subfloor over this soft one and then flooring I am going to just lay 2x8 framing lumber Down. I can plane the edges and biscuits join it and it will be subject floor and Ican toss some stain on it and live with it for a few years if not forever . It will cost $600 for the main floor, $300 for the loft. This is the samething i planned to do forthe loft except those iI will use a daddo blade to make a ship lap type joint on the edges so there is no direct cracked straight thru the boards to the rooms below
Yes, we are on the property. We picked up a double wide and put it out there. There was no way we could afford the land note, debt I racked up building the burned house, and rent in Lufkin. We were only supposed to be in that rent house a year. It was too expensive. The note on the double wide is less than half what rent was and now we are enjoying the property. Right now I'm felling trees and getting ready for sawyers. A bunch of guys over on the forestry forum are helping me out. Some came to fell and some are coming in Dec to saw. Right now I'm trying to get the coin together to replace tools and buy the engineered I-joist so once the framing lumber is cut, I can start framing.
I like the 2x8 idea flooring idea. What about 1x material or do you need the strength of the 2x? I'm sure you could find a local sawyer to cut you some 2x8s cheaper than what you would pay at home depot. Maybe do random widths! That way you get more out of a tree.
Thanks for the info on the metal. I'm looking to do something similar when we rebuild. I will need it in 16' lengths.
Austin
I neee 2x for 5he loft flooring. The beams are 32" on center. Too far for 1x.
I have found a guy with a sawmill just south of me. He is getting iut of thr business and he has two large bundles of 1x12 rough cut boards. $1/ft for knit free number 1 grade and $.75/ft for knotty. I am going this weekend hooefukky to buy eniugh for the floor. Wish I had some more money I would buy it all
Well last weekend I had the house wired. I found an electrician to do it on the side on a weekend for $500. I spent $1000 on supplies. $500 of that was on the big wire to run from the power pole to the house. Little more expensive then I thought. I could have had the power company come turn the power off and retrench it tue rest the way to the house but I decided to leave the meter and main box out on the pole. Mabey it was a bad decision with wire being so empensive.
But we have power...
This weekend I finished the sheathing on the gable end walls and I framed in the rear bumpout in the bathroom for the french door. Now all I need is two french door units and we will be totally enclosed. At which point I think my wife will move in because camper life is killing us
I spent half the day today figuring out all the angles to build a hip type roof over a bump out. Got it done then decided it would bee too much of a pain to roof with metal so I tore the ends off and just built a straight shed type roof over it
Oh btw. The wire ended up costing me so much I was not able to get those 1x12 boards. And I think he has sold them. I probably wont have enough money for them this week either
Good job on getting the electric done. Also, with metal roofs, the fewer seams the better. I would love to have dormers and things like that but I really want a metal roof and don't want to mess with all the seams. Shed roof is just so easy to do with metal.
You have no id3a how hard my wife petitioned to have dormers on the roof in front. And while I agree it w9uld have really made a huge difference it was just more then I wanted to tackle with limited experience. Its a lot more trim and roofing and I dont need a leaker
I know people who have fought with leaks around dormers for years and then finally took them out. The only way I would even consider a dormer is if it was a shed roof dormer and even then I would have to REALLY want it or REALLY need it for headroom.
I also like skylights and can usually find them for a good price on craigslist. Problem is, trying to flash around them with a metal roof. No thanks. When I put on a metal roof, I don't want to go back up there for MANY years.
Austin
FWIW, there is no reason to expect leaks around dormers and skylights IF the work is done right in the first place. We don't have any dormers but we do have a main gable roof that runs N-S and two gables roofs that intersect running in the E-W direction. Metal roof; no leaks. Two skylights; again no leaks. However there is a long list of things that can and do leak when they are done wrong. Window and door flashing head that list. Of course that is all my opinion and YMMV.
I dont have to worry about flashing doors and windows. I will have porch on 4 sides. Lol.
Just kidding though. I spent lots of time researching flashing doors and windows.
Unfortunatly I am going to have to get back on the roof eventually and remove my ridge cap. Its not sealed, the lumber yard didnt have the foam seals that go under it. I still doubt I will get leaks. Most the roof has two layers of tar paper and there is hiuse wrap over the ridge too. However a driving rain coukd put water under the metal and I dont want that if it can be avoided, this is huricane country. Which reminds me I need more hurricane ties to tie side walls into the deck. And I I need doors. And inworked of more blocking in the evese today and....... OH LOOK SQUIRREL!
Btw I didnt build dormers because I wasnt sure exactly how to tie them into the roof and couldnt find a good enough video detaiking it
Then again at the rate I am going it might be 10 years before I get porches on this house.
Can anyone tell me how I should attach a treated board to the house to hang porch floor joists? Can I attwch it right to my osb and then flash over it so when i put my siding on I start laying it from that board up? Or do I attach it and space it out away from the osb and housewrap somehow? Or what?
Well we picked the coldest week in hiwtory to move into our uninsulated osb box... aka house. It wasnt much of a decision since the heat in the motorhome quit. Still no plumbing or any kind of water but the electric is basicly done. The motorhome is parked right next to the house to use for bathroom and shower but plumbing definatly just moved up on my list.
I got a freeby old king 626 boxwood stove I restored. Still dont know if I will use it in the house. Mabey just keep it for a shop. Not sure how much I trust it. I dont have a chimney yet anyways.
I have some friends who sell flooring and they brought me a great present.
I had a bunch of 1x8 and 1x12 cut at the sawmill to use for flooring.
Pics to fallow as I can get thrm to upload on this miserable internet connection
Some of my flooring laid out to dry. This is very green 8". I know this isnt a great way to dry wood but I am out of room and the old subfloor is very weak. I have a stack of much dryer stuff in the loft area. All my 1x12 were cut out a very old very dry log so I am going to lay that stuff in a few weeks.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20140110_093158.jpg)
Some of my bigger flooring
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/IMG_226133054097254.jpg)
This is a bit of my guft from my friends. Its good to have friends
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/IMG_31152317868950.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20131228_174451.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20131228_174527.jpg)
My new old stove. It had 2 broken legs no door pins and 50lbs of rust
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20131210_150211.jpg)
After a lot of elbow grease and some paint. Two new legs a handle to open the top plate new door pins and a new log grate. All in under $100.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20131214_151830.jpg)
Once again its good to yave friends. This fame from the guy who helped with my roof. Guess I paid him enough. N3ar as I can tell its pre 1940s. Im not sure if I want to use it in my house though. Kinda scarred. Lol.
This is a king stoves and ranch model 626. After researching i5 the company was sold a few times. The last co that bought it was us stoves which still holds thr patent on this stove and still produces it with amazingly few changes. Thankfully b3cause of that I was able to buy brand new parts and they fit right on it. The legs are about 1/4" shorter so I can either stick an extra piece of tile under them or order two more to replafe the other origionals. theyre only $11 ea
Nice gift. You should be able to lay a decent looking floor with it. Maybe have to mix & match to get a quanity to fit in your rooms but still cool.
Yep the old "box stove". Good for instant heat but lousy on keeping a fire very long. Better sleep close to it and have your wood pile about that close as well. Probably be good for the shop just to take the chill off and burn up some scrap lumber if you are into wood working.
Pretty much what I was thinking. If I dont yave another stovr by next winter I will put the chimney in where it needs to go and make this one attach to it untill I find something better. Problem is this one has to basicly be out in the middle of the floor to be far enough away from everything.
In the pic with the medalion yiu can see some 12x24 wood grain tile. I have enough of that to do the whole bathroom floor minus wyere the shower is going. 160sq ft. I have 70ft of that brownish ceramic and another 30 ft of a lighter tan shade. I have 50 feet of the slate which I was going to use in the shower but now 8 am thinking I will use that around the entry door and wood stove hearth. I have 33ft of those 8" tavertine tiles. Then I have misc mouldings 5 sq foot of tubled marble with a basket weave pattern oj mesh. A few more feet of 2" tiles on mesh and a little bit of glass but not much and im not fond of it.
There is also WAY more if I need it. I need to figure out were to put that medalian
I also found a 6 foot clawfoot tub I am going to restore. I am a little aprehensive about putting a big old clawfoot tub on tile though. My last tile job didnt go so well. I had prob half the tile pop on me.
Btw. I put 3/4" t&g plywood over my sort of soft subfloor in the bathroom. Screwed it directly to the floor joists and glued it. I am going to also put Hardie tile backer over that. Anyone know if I should glue that down with thinset or just screw it down?
According to the Hardie folks thinset should be used...
FAQ Q&A: "Why do I have to use thinset between HardieBacker board and the subfloor?
Dry set (ANSI 118.1) or acrylic modified thinset (ANSI 118.4) is specified between the HardieBacker board and the subfloor to eliminate any deviations between our product and the subfloor. This decreases the probability of popping or cracking tiles due to deflection and air pockets."
http://www.jameshardie.com/developer/faq-hardiebacker.shtml (http://www.jameshardie.com/developer/faq-hardiebacker.shtml) Lots of info there.
Special screws and the reason is listed in the FAQ
All that said I know of one floor where the Hardie was screwed down w/o thinset and tile later installed with thinset on top. No apparent problems after several years. I'm not suggesting that, just saying...
Thanks MountainDon
Have you looked into code approved wall heat shields? Those combined with a stove heat shield you can reduce clearance on some stoves to 6 inches from combustibles. I know we are looking at a Jotul F3 or F400 for our house and the manual says 6" with double walled pipe, rear heat shield, and wall heat shield.
That stove is up to 100 yr old. There is no specs for it so you go to the default 36". Even with hestvshields its out a ways but I was sort of joking about baing in the middle of the room.
I am up on my stove regs tho. So I will figure it out. Our winter is close to iver already tho we dont have much need for heat here. So its not really a priority. Plumbing and water is
Not much more need for heat.... did I really say that? Oh boy was I wrong. Its been down to 20 and below and 8ts snowed twice in the last week and mabey more in a few days. Now remember I live in deep south east tx... it doesn5 snow here and it sure doesnt get down to 16 degrees. I am ready for spring. Living in this house with no insulation or heat except space heaters I can almost hewr the electric meter spinning. One night I had to unhook the dryer hose and run it for extra heat.
Well I put 7/16 osb down on the floor in the living room. Mostly to level it out since the osb that got soft was slightly swelled up at the seams. I have a few hundred sq feet of rough sawn 1" pine I will put over it as soon as I can find a good deal on a planer.
In the bathrrom I put 3/4 t&g plywood over the osb and screwed to the joists with 3.5" screws. Tonight I started putting 1/2 hardie board over that. Thin set and screwed. Now that I have over 2" of floor I guess I can start to tile. Lol. I bought a shower base instead of doing my own. Its not custom but it is pretty nice. I will still tile the walls and prob get a framless glass enclosure. Not cheap but I like them.
I decided to use pex and boy am I glad I did. I love this stuff. Plumbed my kitchen in 5 minutes including drilling holes. About the same for washer and toilet. I bought a manifold so all I need to to decide on a shower vakve and diverter I like and get a water heater and tie it all together. Oh ya, still need to rent a trencher to get water lines to the house.
Does anyone have an opinion on if pvc is ok for water lines from the box to the house or should I go with 1" pex? Its abiut $88 per 100 foot here and I need a few hundred feet once I add water faucets out in the yard into the plan.
Our home is PVC from the street to meter and then from meter to house. Then PEX since we replumbed the house. That PVC is 29 year old work. I have no idea if current code is the same or if that varies from place to place.
We dont have any code to worry about. I planned to use pvc.
I guess I probably need a check valve and a psi regulator right off the box. Or can I run full psi to my outside faucets and drop the psi going into the house?
Do you know what psi the house runs at? Im thinking 30 but cant be sure
We run the water company pressure to one yard hydrant, After that a pressure reducer drops the house supply to 30 psi. There are regulators with other pressures and some are adjustable. 30 psi works for us.
I don't remember seeing a check valve on the supply side. ??? Anything on our side of the meter has to have a vacuum breaker if there is any chance of a back flow contaminating the water. The hose bibs all have them as does the irrigation system.
Does anyone know if there is a code that says I cant run my waste system vents up and exit under the eaves? Doesvit say they have to be above the roof or so many feet from a window?
Quote from: CjAl on February 05, 2014, 08:27:44 PM
Does anyone know if there is a code that says I cant run my waste system vents up and exit under the eaves? Doesvit say they have to be above the roof or so many feet from a window?
I think this is what you were looking for.
VENT TERMINALS
904.1 Roof extension. All open vent pipes that extend through a roof shall be terminated at least 12 inches (304.8mm) above the roof, except that where a roof is to be used for any purpose other than weather protection, the vent extensions shall be run at least 7 feet (2134 mm) above the roof.
904.2 Frost closure. Every vent extension through a roof or wall shall be a minimum of 3 inches (76 mm) in diameter. Any increase in the size of the vent shall be made inside the structure a minimum of 1 foot (305 mm) below the roof or inside the wall.
904.3 Flashings. The juncture of each vent pipe with the roof line shall be made water-tight by an approved flashing.
904.4 Prohibited use. Vent terminals shall not be used as a flag pole or to support flag poles, television aerials or similar items, except when the piping has been anchored in an approved manner.
904.5 Location of vent terminal. An open vent terminal from a drainage system shall not be located directly beneath any door, openable window, or other air intake opening of the building or of an adjacent building, and any such vent terminal shall not be within 10 feet (3048 mm) horizontally of such an opening unless it is at least 2 feet (610 mm) above the top of such opening.
904.6 Extension through the wall. Vent terminals extending through the wall shall terminate a minimum of 10 feet (3048 mm) from the lot line and 10 feet (3048 mm) above average ground level.
Vent terminals shall not terminate under the overhang of a structure with soffit vents. Side wall vent terminals shall be protected to prevent birds or rodents from entering or blocking the vent opening.
904.7 Extension outside a structure. In climates where the 97.5 -percent value for outside design temperature is less than 0ºF (-18ºC), vent pipes installed on the exterior of the structure shall be protected against freezing by insulation, heat or both.
IRC 2012... (http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_31_sec003.htm) I already had it copied, John... I couldn't stand to waste it.. ;D
SECTION P3103 VENT TERMINALS
P3103.1 Roof extension.
Open vent pipes that extend through a roof shall be terminated not less than 6 inches (152 mm) above the roof or 6 inches (152 mm) above the anticipated snow accumulation, whichever is greater, except that where a roof is to be used for any purpose other than weather protection, the vent extension shall be run not less than 7 feet (2134 mm) above the roof.
P3103.2 Frost closure.
Where the 97.5-percent value for outside design temperature is 0°F (-18°C) or less, every vent extension through a roof or wall shall be not less than 3 inches (76 mm) in diameter. Any increase in the size of the vent shall be made inside the structure not less than 1 foot (305 mm) below the roof or inside the wall.
P3103.3 Flashings and sealing.
The juncture of each vent pipe with the roof line shall be made water tight by an approved flashing. Vent extensions in walls and soffits shall be made weather tight by caulking.
P3103.4 Prohibited use.
A vent terminal shall not be used for any purpose other than a vent terminal.
P3103.5 Location of vent terminal.
An open vent terminal from a drainage system shall not be located less than 4 feet (1219 mm) directly beneath any door, openable window, or other air intake opening of the building or of an adjacent building, nor shall any such vent terminal be within 10 feet (3048 mm) horizontally of such an opening unless it is not less than 3 feet (914 mm) above the top of such opening.
P3103.6 Extension through the wall.
Vent terminals extending through the wall shall terminate not less than 10 feet (3048 mm) from the lot line and 10 feet (3048 mm) above the highest adjacent grade within 10 feet (3048 mm) horizontally of the vent terminal. Vent terminals shall not terminate under the overhang of a structure with soffit vents. Side wall vent terminals shall be protected to prevent birds or rodents from entering or blocking the vent opening.
The way I read that is since I do not have vented soffets I can run the main stackniut the end wall just under the eave.
Unless I am missing something
Although the firstbone says 2 feet above an openable window and the second posting says two feet
I think you are okay if there are no soffit vents in that eve and if you meet the windows / ground clearances. What I posted is the 2012 IRC. Code does change from version to version.
I can meet the 2' but not sure about the 3' unledd you only count to the part of the window that opend. Being single hung only thr bottom half opens
Unless there was an inspector I would not worry about the 2 foot , 3 foot difference. Two foot was code at one time and probably still is code someplace. Not all jurisdictions change to new codes as soon as a new version is out. Not all jurisdictions adopt all the new changes either. IMO, this is a small enough detail that if you can meet 2 feet, it would be good.
As of now there is no code enforcement. The community decided to become a city but its as disfunctionwl as it gets and they have all sorts of rules but no enforcement. As it was they were only concerned the electric and plumbing was done by a licensedprofessional. I took my eelectricianin to copy his license and I found out they no longer even have an inspector and can not 8nspect or inforce anything. So I am Iin a rush to get my plumbing and septic done. I still need a state permit for the septic but bypassing the cith saves me a $300 city permit
Well now that its 70 degrees again I am doing insulation. Good timing I know. However down here its prob only weeks away from needing ac when it was 20 few weeks ago.
I scored a good deal on some cedar last week.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20140214_170829.jpg)
So I started making kitchen cabinets. Got one done and the frames for all the rest of the lowers. I will make more boxes tomorrow. Making those out of rough cut pine and the faces are the cedar. My camera flash washes out the red though.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20140221_175108.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20140220_174444.jpg)
I also set my shower base. I overspent last week with the cedar deal I ran into and valantines day. So I have to wait to buy some spray foam and tile backer board. I have the shower valve, I could start plumbing it in but im afraid I may need to return it to pay for food for the rest of the week. Hate it when I mess up the budget
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20140216_183351.jpg)
I got my cabinetes finished. Well not c0mplete but the finish is on. I need to make doors and add drawer slides.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20140302_154926.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20140307_184154.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20140311_164529.jpg)
I am off thursdays and fridays now. I will do my upper cabinet this week and tey to get doors done.
I also started paneling the bumpout in the bedroom. Rought cut pine behind the headboard and cedar on the sides.will look nice when its finished and sanded with some poly on it. The rough pine is ship lapped and stained with a light walnut
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20140307_192209.jpg)
This is going to be one big upper cabinet. 5 1/2 foot tall and 50" wide. Going to be real fun to hang.
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20140313_192640.jpg)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/20140313_162024.jpg)
Love me some pocket screws. Looks good. I really like the cedar.
Austin
Thanks austin.
Funny how life slows things down once you move in. I have gotten very little done. We were going to have the septic done with our tax return and then the mill I work for blew up and I was out of work the better part of a month and we used the money to live on. So still no indoor plumbing and the wife is none too happy about it. Our $2300 septic quote has turned into $4k min now too.
Well Like I said, it sucks living in a house while building it. Still no septic or running water but SOON. All the inside plumbing is in I just need a hot water greater and to rent the trencher. Septic is a different issue.
Its cooling off so I am ordering my chimney this payday. Not getting caught with my pants down again there.
I got the two Anderson windows 3x5 for $150 new
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/IMG_20140817_172043_463.jpg) (https://s170.photobucket.com/user/CjAl1/media/IMG_20140817_172043_463.jpg.html)
Then I put in some of my rough cut wainscoating and built a cedar mantle
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/IMG_20140914_103018_349_1.jpg) (https://s170.photobucket.com/user/CjAl1/media/IMG_20140914_103018_349_1.jpg.html)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/IMG_20140910_163639_178.jpg) (https://s170.photobucket.com/user/CjAl1/media/IMG_20140910_163639_178.jpg.html)
My sander died half way through finishing my cabinets doors so the rest have to wait.(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/IMG_20140910_191454_332_39.jpg) (https://s170.photobucket.com/user/CjAl1/media/IMG_20140910_191454_332_39.jpg.html)
I have started to tile my shower almost ready to tile the bathroom floor but no pics yet.
People who make their PEX system so nice and symmetrical have way too much time on their hands. Lol.
The closet was too narrow to put the manifold straight and get the pex to bend without kinking. I may come back later and remount it and use 90 degree elbows to make it clean. It will still look better once I secure it all.(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/IMG_20141026_104903_961.jpg) (https://s170.photobucket.com/user/CjAl1/media/IMG_20141026_104903_961.jpg.html)
(https://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u258/CjAl1/IMG_20141026_105650_756.jpg) (https://s170.photobucket.com/user/CjAl1/media/IMG_20141026_105650_756.jpg.html)
Got heat... getting closer
Heat is GOOD! Especially in about a month!
Remember you eat an elephant one bite at a time.
Hey ya'll
I haven't done much. I lost my job a few months back and my wife only works part time at the moment. She is training to taken over as director of the library and museum in town but the current director isn84 and apparently in no hurry to retire. Lol. On the plus side we have no mortgage. Isn't that what this is all about?? I'd probably be homeless (again) if I still had a house with a mortgage on it like I was when the bank took the last one. I really need to get out of trucking.
I did manage to have a well drilled this week. Unfortunately they came and drilled it while I was at an interview so no pics except the after shot which my slow Internet won't even load right now.
I had water from a small private water utility but it was so bad you couldn't drink or cook with it. There is constant water line breaks so there is bacteria problems and it is so hard my natural slate shower is now pure white and nothing I've found will cut it. Also they've been double billing and just say tough.... Pay it. They say I used 11k gallons a month for two months when my water usage has never been over 1500. So $5300 for a 170 ft well and it's like spring water. I could do without having it in the middle of my front yard but on 2/3 an acre it's not easy to meet all the set back requirements for property lines and septic.