I know there's a table for this but I can't find it right now...
I'm building my "shed" something like this photo I've shamelessly stolen from Gary O
(https://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l588/Garyo424/model1.jpg)
The rear section will be a 12*24 "shed" with a 12' high front wall, and the front will be a roofed porch 8' deep.
Will a 2*4 on 24" centers be adequate to support the load of the center wall or should I use 2*6 framing in that wall? The wall will be sheathed with 7/16 OSB (nailed and glued) and covered with 2" polyiso
For a shed 2x4's should be fine, the 2x6 would added depth for insulation reasons.
Are you planning that center wall to be as open as the model? I'd guess not as you said the "front section" would a be a open porch.
I ask because IF you planned it as open with a beam supporting the rafters at the clear story you'd need a beam , like the model has, which would need to be done differently than that model.
If it's a framed wall you could easily attach a ledger and hang the rafters off of the ledger instead of a beam.
I wouldn't suggest using "utility grade" studs , use #2 Standard and Better Fir or SYP depending on where you live and what's available locally for "Standard" wall framing.
I'm calling it a "shed" because the lady at the JE office said it was a "shed" and I don't need a permit for a "shed" [cool].
With 2" of foam outside the framing and fiberglass in the walls/ceiling I believe insulation will not be an issue. There will be a lot of windows, and they will be my biggest source of heat gain/loss. I can live with that
Framing will be typical 2* construction, not post and beam as the image shows. That picture is just a representation of the basic shape.
If the model doesn't accurately represent what you are wanting to build, perhaps it would help the rest of us if you did a paper drawing or sketch, if you have the ability to scan it into an image that could be linked to? Even simple drawings with dimensions help a lot.
Two inches of foam is about R10, not all that much if you are planning on being a shed dweller.
Your location could help with some planning issues that will come up.
There's a tutorial AVAILABLE HERE (http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=4973.msg61879#msg61879) that may help with setting that up to appear under your Avatar or User ID like mine.
Found it! Thanks everyone!
(https://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x109/windyhilll/studlength.jpg)
Quote from: MountainDon on August 28, 2011, 02:27:17 PM
If the model doesn't accurately represent what you are wanting to build, perhaps it would help the rest of us if you did a paper drawing or sketch, if you have the ability to scan it into an image that could be linked to? Even simple drawings with dimensions help a lot.
Two inches of foam is about R10, not all that much if you are planning on being a shed dweller.
I found this image, it's pretty close to the design I see in my mind but I'm not fancy enough for the windows above the porch roof. Rough dimensions are as I posted above, final dimensions are being determined as I crunch through the code books and deal with stuff like 4' sheets of T&G that measure 47.5"
(http://www.contractortalk.com/attachments/f116/41242-there-such-thing-pretty-shed-roof-design-clerestory-shed-roof.jpg)
The foam is R12, that's better than the walls in my city home and not much less than my attic. It will be plenty for a weekender and I will be adding fiberglass later.
Quote from: PEG688 on August 28, 2011, 12:58:39 PM
For a shed 2x4's should be fine, the 2x6 would added depth for insulation reasons.
You could easily attach a ledger and hang the rafters off of the ledger.
I wouldn't suggest using "utility grade" studs , use #2 Standard and Better Fir or SYP depending on where you live and what's available locally for "Standard" wall framing.
I believe you're correct. I've decided to go with 2*4 walls and 5/8" sheathing. I will add 2*4 blocking at the panel seams for extra shear strength, use construction adhesive, follow the nailing schedules and all that.
Hanging a ledger is the plan, double-stacked 2*s should be just about the right thickness.
#2 SYP is the standard at the local stores. I won't need to much of it so I can take the time to pick some decent pieces.
Thanks again!
5/8 sheathing will cause some grief with window and door jambs later in the project, 1/2" is more common and works well with stock 4-9/16" jambs.
Quote from: Rob_O on September 04, 2011, 12:55:09 AM
I believe you're correct. I've decided to go with 2*4 walls and 5/8" sheathing. I will add 2*4 blocking at the panel seams for extra shear strength, use construction adhesive, follow the nailing schedules and all that.
Hanging a ledger is the plan, double-stacked 2*s should be just about the right thickness.
#2 SYP is the standard at the local stores. I won't need to much of it so I can take the time to pick some decent pieces.
Thanks again!
Your welcome.
The sheathing you mentioned at 5/8" , are you thinking T1-11 type sheathing / siding combo? What we call "single wall" construction.
As Don mentioned you'll get into thickness issues with the door jambs , windows not so much as I'm pretty sure you won't be buying a window that comes set-up with a jamb extension build into it.
That seldom is the case these days , generally the windows require a jamb extension to bring the surround out in plain with the interior wall finish , whether that be dry wall or some sort of wood paneling , or a combo of those interior wall surfaces.
You can order door jambs to specific depths , there could be a up charge for that, generally it's easy enough to do your own jamb extensions , to a standard 4/ 9/16" "standard" jamb.
I rare cases that can be a issue IF you have to have a door that will open 180 degrees to lay flat against the wall the door swings off. Or at least open well beyond 90 degrees , the hinges can pinch at the wall if the jamb is recessed into the wall and the interior jamb is extended more than a inch or so.
Quote from: PEG688 on September 04, 2011, 11:01:45 AM
The sheathing you mentioned at 5/8" , are you thinking T1-11 type sheathing / siding combo? What we call "single wall" construction.
As Don mentioned you'll get into thickness issues with the door jambs , windows not so much as I'm pretty sure you won't be buying a window that comes set-up with a jamb extension build into it.
You can order door jambs to specific depths , there could be a up charge for that, generally it's easy enough to do your own jamb extensions , to a standard 4/ 9/16" "standard" jamb.
Framing plans are for 2*4s on 24" centers with 5/8" sheathing, blocked at the panel seams. If you guys think 7/16" sheathing is adequate I will go that route and save a few bucks. The structural framing will be covered with 2" of foam and some sort of siding - probably 1* rough cut cedar from the local mill
I've already purchased my windows (half-price closeouts) with standard jambs, and I plan to buy my door "off the rack" as well. 3/8" drywall is readily available so the thicker sheathing is a non-issue.
I thought I had a nice, simple plan for the front porch framing then *someone* had to bump this thread http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=9619.20 (http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=9619.20) and now I want to do the porch framing with the dead standing cedars on my property. Most of them fell in a storm 2 years ago so they should be just about right by now
Thanks again to everyone with your help in my brainstorming session
If you use 24" OC spacing for the wall studs, drywall that is less than 5/8" (yes. five-eighths) will more than likely show "waves" down the wall. And 3/8 drywall stands a good chance of breaking if someone leans or stumbles against it as well.
He's talking about exterior sheath Mt. D , which is OK for 24" OC stud spacing. It's "legal" anyway, blocked at the seams will help , although he might get some wavy wall look inside and out , but it's commonly done that way.
7/16" OSB or 1/2" CDX is the normal sheathing used today on both 24" OC and 16" OC framing .
No, no. He mentiuoned 3/8 drywall
Quote3/8" drywall is readily available so the thicker sheathing is a non-issue.
I have no issue with 24" OC studs, well not much. I did them in our cabin and I used 7/16"OSB on the exterior, 4 x sheets vertical to overlap the rim joists, with siding over that. Inside 5/8 sheetrock. The other issue I have with 24" OC studs is that leaves you with fewer studs to attach electrical boxes to. That can be solved by using "old work" boxes fitted into the sheetrock afterwards, but I don't know how you plan that around electrical inspections.
You guys are both right. If the thicker sheathing was necessary I could use the thinner drywall and not have to mess around with the trim.
Peg: If the 7/16" OSB is adequate I'll use it. You say yes and I trust your experience
Don: In the county my building inspector is also the electrical inspector. When he comes out to inspect the underground service and temp pole I will ask him about electrical in the "shed". He has already said I do not need a permit to build the "shed" so I doubt he will care about the wiring of a building that doesn't exist in his mind.
Thanks again to everyone for the ideas.