That is the question. My current plan is for a 6" nominal thickness concrete wall, crawlspace foundation. My plan was for no unbalanced backfill by being filled in on both sides of the wall with just a crawl space. Even if it were fully excavated it would be a maximum of 4ft. unbalance fill. My original design was for #4 rebar vertically every 48". Then I read "TABLE R404.1.2(8) MINIMUM VERTICAL REINFORCEMENT FOR 6-, 8-, 10-INCH AND 12-INCH NOMINAL FLAT BASEMENT WALLS." It can be found here: http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_4_sec004_par003.htm
Am I reading this right? It says no vertical rebar is required? For some reason, I feel more comfortable with it, but saving $250 is an idea. Thoughts?
Are you saying you plan to backfill on the inside of the foundation wall? To resist wall movement? I'm no expert, but this seems futile.
Reminds me of an old builder who, in my youth, told me that he always finished framing out the house before he backfilled against the block foundation wall. Now I understand his logic ... the weight of the buidling would help keep the blocks from moving. At least 'til he got out of town.
I guess there's nothing wrong with having backfilling as one of the final constructions steps ... but I would prefer my foundation walls to be able to resist the earth on their own. Think underground swimming pool.
I would go for the rebar and sleep easier.
It is a good idea to at least have the floor diaphragm in place prior to unbalanced fill placement, this is a strict requirement with some foundation systems such as superior walls. I don't recall ever tempting fate. As one old timer told me "If its worth pouring its worth reinforcing".
JRR
All foundation walls that don't have earth require insulation in my jurisdiction ($$). I might as fill the few inches back in.
Don
I was planning on filling the inside and outside at the same time. This would mean it is not unbalanced, or am I understanding the terminology wrong?
You are understanding "unbalanced fill" correctly, fill on one side of the wall higher than on the other. It sounds like you do not have any unbalanced fill. Code would not require vertical steel here. My comments regarding backfill timing and having a lid on were more related to the condition in footnote F which also doesn't apply in this situation. You were also asking for our thoughts, so outside of code requirements, mine is that rebar is pretty cheap.
rebar is cheap... repairing your foundation is about the most expensive thing you can do
Thank you all. I'm clearly sold. Penny wise and pound foolish sometimes, I'm glad there are people out there to help.
Don, thanks. I am not formally educated it this field and it helps to point me straight. I've been wondering that definition question for a while. It is great to have someplace to be able to ask.
There will be plenty of opportunities to save a few $$ but, your foundation, framing and roofing should be on the don't cut corners list. Most of the stuff after that is often driven by aesthetics and thus can often keep you inside your budget or bust it completely.
One other place I like to plan on the best quality material is paints and stains. They don't represent a big item compared to other material costs but, there is a lot of difference in coverage and durability and the good stuff goes on so much easier. In same vein, buy good quality brushes, especially for finish on trim and other woodwork. Clean them thoroughly and they'll give good service for long time---worth a little extra initial cost. If I buy cheap brushes I use them one time and plan on tossing them without spending any time cleaning them.
Very excellent advice rwanders!
Bruce