Wood Flooring Option

[deemmert]

I am in the planning stage of building our second house.
This website has certainly influenced my floor plan and home design.

I have been trying to think outside the box for wood flooring ideas.

What has been floating in my mind is using #1 pine 2x4 and 2x6 for the flooring.

My thoughts are to not apply apply sheathing and place each 2by glued and nailed to the joist (engineered i joist) and pocket screw each 2by together. 

Why I want to do this-
A. It will save on cost
B. It will save on overall time
C. I think it will look good

Problems-
The wood is soft and will show wear.  I currently have a poplar (old barn siding floor) and love the wear and tear.
Structurally

This just an idea!
Thanks

dave
PS I know this has been discussed but the pocket screws no sheathing havent and I didnt want to add to an 3 yr old thread

[Redoverfarm]

There are a lot of disadvantages to using regular lumber.  One being if it is stained and separates at the seams (drying process & seasonal) it will show the unstained wood.  Second being that it will trap dirt and it is very hard to clean it out of the cracks.  Better off getting T&G and pre stain.  You can apply the top coat once laid.

[deemmert]

I ran the numbers and you save about $500 bucks to do what I stated.

And I didn't say this but I would stain and poly overtop of it.  But either way you are going to do that, therefore I did not cover that in the cost comparison.  Also I would pocket screw to butt ends as well. 

To cover 830 sq ft with half 2x4 and half 2x6 would cost $1100 in materials
To cover 830 sq ft with advantech and lumber liquidators utility oak or pine is about $1650

Therefore not that much is saved and you can get under roof faster.  So I guess I answered my own question....haha

[zion-diy]

I used red ceder that I laid down with screws and then urethaned it for wear and tear. It has now been down since 2005 and still looks fine. 

[Don_P]

A couple of things to think about. How are you going to air seal? Dimensional lumber runs 19% moisture content typically, flooring generally 8-10%. If this is the case there will be considerable gapping. If you screw the boards together something is going to split during seasoning, shrinking and swelling wood can split rocks much less wood. Google the shrinkulator for some dimensions. Without a subfloor the floor is also not well tied together. Protecting a finish floor during construction slows you down, no blocks nailed to the floor, no dropped tools, keep it dry and clean etc etc. The folks I'm working for really liked the hickory I sawed up for them. He has bought a shaper and will probably make the T&G finish floor and apply it over the subfloor.

[MushCreek]

One material that is often used for second story floors that are exposed underneath, such as log cabins, is tongue and groove 2X6 pine (usually yellow pine for toughness). Not sure how it stacks up price-wise.

[akwoodchuck]

One material that is often used for second story floors that are exposed underneath, such as log cabins, is tongue and groove 2X6 pine (usually yellow pine for toughness). Not sure how it stacks up price-wise.

This is what we got right now...rough cut post and beam with T&G spruce..think it runs about $3/sq. ft. here....kids' room is right over dining table...think plain cardboard would be a better sound barrier  ...next build is gonna have sheathing/ carpet above, drywall below...and kids rooms are going over the garage...

[Don_P]

I've put a bunch of that in log homes for the upper floor. In one timberframe the architect specced 2x6 T&G with 3/4 foam sheets then 5/8 ply screwed down on 8" centers with carpet as the finish. It is a nice quiet floor, and no dust sifting down.

[Redoverfarm]

Just to add to my previous post and agree with other comments there is a downside to using just 2X T&G to serve both a ceiling (1st floor) and floor (2nd story).  That is or at least what I had noticed when installing mine over 4X8 beams is that the beveled side of the T&G ran fairly true and tight.  The other side (floor) did not. There is a constant gap on the flat or unmilled side as well as knots and other defects.  Regardless how tight to attempt to pull it is still prevalent as the T&G bottoms out first.  It appears that it is milled for one true side. With my application it really didn't bother me as it fit with the log cabin décor.  Sort of rustic style.  Don't get me wrong it was stained and finished smooth it just didn't turn out as the reverse ceiling side.  Finish both sides prior to installation especially if there are two different shades of stain like mine.  If not it could bleed through if you attempted to stain it after installation. 

Ceiling





Floor (2nd Story)