Dogtrot at Hightop

Started by Redoverfarm, November 25, 2007, 08:34:07 PM

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BiggKidd

John,

  Your place looks great. Its all comming togeather nicely. [cool] You are so talented. The cabin looks great. The rock facing looks so good.

Larry
A hard life only makes you stronger.

Larry

Redoverfarm

Scott I am glad to see that I am not the only one who is framing against a roof pitch like your closet.  I framed out a bathroom in the loft (10/12) and used a 2X6 plate beveled 40 degrees on both edges.  I looked at a 2x4 plate but it left me with a void on either the inside or outside with 2X4 framing.  This allowed for the drywall to go all the way to the top without any voids.  Still it was a real PIA.

Got a question for a plumber but I think I am right.  With the loft bathroom I only have a 30" void to run the waste lines and supply down through the open beam ceiling.  So I sit the toilet and sink opposite each other and with a doorway it is approximately 80".  So I was thinking that there is no law made in stone that the P-trap has to be under the sink. I can run both the sink supply and waste line along & through the partition to get to the 30" area and then drop it to a stack waste line.  I was thinking I would install the trap approximately 40" from the sink. Does this sound workable.  To compound the problem I've got a pedestal sink which doesn't allow for much working room anyway.

Went and picked up the T&G for the ceiling this morning.  Bread and milk are not the only thing that has increased in value in the last 10 years.  1300 Sq Ft of 1X6 was almost $1,600 .   You could have bought the same amount then for about 1/2 then.  I still think I got a pretty decent deal as most lumber yards wanted $1,900.





ScottA

I did the same thing John. Ran a 2x6 through the table saw to get the angle for the top plate of my walls. I did the other side of the loft this morning. Not sure I follow what you're doing with the sink but as long as you have a trap between the sink and the sewer you should be ok. All the trap does is keep sewer gas out of the house. Needs to be accessable in case you get a clog though. Yes you did get a good price on the T&G. I got a quote of $900 for the 600 sf I need for my cieling. But thats for select 1x12 eastern white pine. I may opt for something else before it's all over. We'll see.

Redoverfarm

Sorry Scott I didn't do a very good job explaining did I.  Picture a narrow rectangle 80" X 36".  The toilet (27" deep) will go on the one end facing the other end. The toilet is over the the 30" spacing (Beams run perpendicular to the rectangle). At the other end of that rectangle is the sink which is 18" deep and faces the toilet.  The opening between the two fixtures is the door opening. I will run the supply and waste of the sink toward the knee wall then along the wall until I can reach that 30" opening that the toilet is over top of. From there it will be run to a 3" partition drop in the 1st floor bathroom to the crawlspace. The elbow off the toilet in the loft bath will be hidden by a false ceiling in the 1st floor bathroom.  These bathrooms are sort of stacked.  Thats the only problem with an open beam construction is with wiring and plumbing to a second story.  I think I have it figured out though.  And yes the trap will be accessable behind the knee wall. Thanks for giving me the OK.

To think of it your Eastern White Pine might be coming from right here. 

Redoverfarm

Most of the bathroom framing is complete with the exception of the endwall over the sink area.  This is going to be a job for "homemade built ins" as the slope of the ceiling will prohibit any conventional medicine cabinet.  Maybe built the same angle that the roof has on one top corner. 



Onto another delimia. I have 4 locust post 8" dia which failed to meet the ceiling(on roof slope).  They are the supports for the short log walls.  A friend recommended that I take the 3/4" T&G and kerf it longways and then soak and bend.  I have bent wood the horizontal fashion but never on the verticle.  The lengths will be from 18"-24".  Suggested that I use a top mounted piece of post (extra which I have) to attach the top of the T&G. I really had intended on converting the round tops to except conventional framing and just transition from round to square then cover with T&G.  At all of the four locations there will be a angled wall from the logs to the ceiling slope. To compound the problem one of the post and wall meet at an intersecting valley rafter. WATCH YOUR HEAD . Have to sleep on this for a while. I put a couple pictures in case someone has a idea.





PEG688


Whats the question?

You want to frame a 2x4 on top of the log wall ?

Could you just cut the top of the vertical log off, then lag bolt a 2x4 or 2x6 (not sure how wide the logs are) on top of that log wall , plumb up on both ends to the rafters , snap a line between the two point and attach a top plate some how to the  rafter bottoms , then stud in between like a normal wall. Then apply your T&G boards to those studs running them down past the lower plate until the bump into the logs , you could cut a angle on them so only the  long points hit the logs and follow it along with those tips so even if it saw toothed  some it would 'look' normal / following the log shapes.

Thanks for the kind words on The Fish Bench.   
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

Redoverfarm

Peg basicly that was the original plan of building a frame wall.  The problem is how do you mate the round post 8" diameter to a 2X6" wall.  I thought I could rabbit the top 2- 4" or so of the log post and alaign my stud to the inside of that. Then when I put up the T&G on the wall and came down onto the post the T&G would fall flush to the outside of the post.  Either way I do it I am afraid there will be a noticable difference between the Post and the T&G . I will either have a small 45 deg hole at the corners looking up the post from the floor or a protrusion at the top of the log post where it meets the T&G.    But I guess it's true "you can't put a square peg in a round hole" or something like that on this.

As far as attaching the walls to the rafters it really wouldn't be a problem as I would just put nailers in between the rafters and attach the top plate to those where ever plumb would be. 

I realize how difficult it is to visualize something like this but thanks for your advice.  Just going to have to be one of those fly by my pants things.  Maybe a couple more nights thinking in bed will solve it.


ScottA

How bout running the chain saw down the top and cutting the post and top log flat for the wall to sit on. Then bevel the post top with a chisel to match the wall thickness.

Redoverfarm

Scott I could use a draw knife and reshape the top of the post some but when making the transition from round(post) to square(T&G wall) I am not sure what that would look like.  I have already trimmed one post to the correct heigth to line up with sill or top plate of the B&B room so it's not a problem building the horizontal it is the verticle I was concerned with. 

Thanks for the suggestion.


TheWire

To bevel or take the edge of the end of posts for log railings, I lay the logs on a radial arm saw set at an angle and take bevels off the edge.  I make a cut, rotate the log a bit and make another cut.  The randomness of the turns makes the bevel come out looking hand hewn.  I also use a power hand planer in the same fashion on logs already in place.

Jerry

Redoverfarm

Thanks Jerry I had considered using a hand powerd planer to let the T&G into the post also.  But my post are locust verticle in place 10' long.

Redoverfarm

Glenn I would make you proud of me the last couple of days.  I broke out the chain saw for a construction tool again.  Cut off the locust post and starting building the small walls which tie to them.  Also cut back for the T&G to mate up to the round logs as well.  Not too much of a problem except for a wall that intersects in a valley rafter. Real PIA getting the angles right for the nailers going both directions from that inside corner.  Got one more to do tomarrow. Yeah that one. I saved the best for last  ;D

Got most of the insulation installed in the ceilings except for the location that I had to build the walls up to the sloped roof.  Moving right along.

Lost my right hand man this week.  School started. 

glenn kangiser

Somehow this got marked as read so I missed it, John, but you are right.  When you can't figure another way out, the chainsaw is always the answer - or in my case, the prime choice. [crz]

How about a palm nailer and individual nails for the hard spots, John? hmm


"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Redoverfarm

OK here is a design question.  I plan on putting T&G Double V-groove on the ceiling.  I am considering putting it or drywall on the gable end walls above the logs.  If I do decide to go with the T&G would it look better running it horizontal or verticle.  The horizontal will make it appear that it runs continous from the ceiling across the gable wall and onto the ceiling again. The horizontal will break that pattern and show a distinct corner where the two meet.  In addition there will be drywall in the cabin so there is no getting around it ($$ wise).  I guess with drywall the color that it is painted will would probably be the deciding factor.



Here is a picture of one of the shortwalls that I had posted earlier.  This was the "booger" that just happened to fall right under the valley rafters.  The additional picture is the type of material ( 2x6 t&g)that the wall will be faced with.  The post of course will be sanded and stained to match the samples and floor.





ScottA

I'd run it horizontal. But thats just me.

glenn kangiser

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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Redoverfarm

Thanks Guys.  Wait to see what others think.

Glenn here is the satellite sight that I was referring to some time ago.  It is BM to my house.  Pretty good picture if you scroll out and in.  I just had it on my computer and thought I would send it to ya.

http://www.flashearth.com/?lat=38.120383&lon=-79.95563&z=15.8&r=0&src=msa

glenn kangiser

Cool, John.  Your Dogtrot was not too far as I remember - up on the hill?
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Redoverfarm

Just to the east about 1/2 air miles.  There is a large clearing and it is just 1/4 mile south of that.  This image is not recent and the cabin is not on it.  Maybe the beginning clearing might be.

Redoverfarm

If anyone tells you that insulation isn't what it's crack up to be tell them to see me.  I finally got all the ceiling and the walls in the B&B room finished except for a few cavities of plumbing.  I worked up in the loft area the last two days and there was a noticable difference in the temperature with just part of the ceiling done.  Before at noon it was adios until the next moning.  Hope it does as well this winter.  1700 Sq Ft is alot of staples.


pioneergal

John,

The home is beautiful......awesome job.
It is simply amazing what you have done with this project!

Redoverfarm

This is the ceiling to be.  I have spent the last two days staining and sealing the T&G for the ceiling.  A slow process to say the least.  30- boards (10-12') done.  Only 130 more to go.  The slow part is allowing the stain to dry before a sealer can be applied.  I am using a water base poly as recoat time is 15 min. The DW says the cabin is going to look like a battleship with all the grey tones.  I really couldn't find anything that went well with the weathered logs inside. The natural would have been too light and out of place.  I think this will tone it down and still remain light enough for a ceiling.  I can see this winter I am going to have to make me a couple more sets of sawhorses. 


glenn kangiser

Looks good, John.  Is that a pine bead board?  Looks like what you would see in an old house.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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Redoverfarm

Thats what it is.  1X6 with the bead makes it appear to be 2-2" boards.  The quality was real good as I work my way down through the pile.   Mostly all 10-12' which makes installation a lot easier.

glenn kangiser

As with all of your work, I think it will turn out looking first class.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.