I am building the 1.5 story 20x30 camp. I have the piers done. I will be setting the built up beams directly on the concrete pier. What bracket should I use to anchor them to the pier? The beams will be 3 2x10's with 1/2 inch plywood in between. Thanks Pete
A CB66 would be nice ,
(http://www.strongtie.com/graphics/products/large/LCB-CB.gif)
Or another version that would work would be ,
(http://www.strongtie.com/graphics/products/large/047a-2007.gif)
I think it's obvious the CB is stronger.
So your planning on no post , meaning your piers will all be perfectly level to each other and poured at exactly the right height! You sure about that?
The piers are already poured so i can't use the CB correct????
Quote from: peteh2833 on November 24, 2007, 07:04:32 PM
The piers are already poured so i can't use the CB correct????
I was just going to ask that question. No, CB66's would be difficult to impossible now.
What are the piers; poured concrete in a form, concrete blocks, round, square...?? size?
Opps [toilet] lets flush the CB66 rofl .
All ready poured humm , any photo's ? I'm sure there's a fix , so no bolt / rebar / nuttin sticking out of the pier top , just a concrete post? Rebar poured inside it ???
Nice use of the new smileys, Paul [cool]
Thanks Mtn D ;D
peteh the second bracket I posted is epoxied in , or can be , it just happened the image I put up is shown epoxied into the pre poured pier / post / slab.
Is that EPB available in a 5 1/2" wide configuration? hmm (Can't find my simpson catalog d* )
I found the catalog and it appears that the EPB is only available as EPB44, for 4x4 posts.
Maybe an AB66 would work? hmm Just need to drill the proper size hole and epoxy in an anchor bolt it uplift forces are a concern. It wouldn't offer much in the way of tipping resistance, but once the joists are secured that wouldn't matter as much.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends2/ABA66Z.jpg)
Are you in a code compliance location?
Quote from: MountainDon on November 24, 2007, 07:26:31 PM
Are you in a code compliance location?
Good point Mtn. D alway start in the beginning d*
OK
Peg688, I poured 10" round tubes. I made 18"x18" and 6" deep footers about 40 inches down. I added to 2 pieces of rebar about 2 to 3 feet long going from the footer up into the tube. I didn't put the brackets in when it was wet because I wanted to make sure everything was square. Would the bracket work best or epoxy a piece of all thread into each pier and then up into each built up beam? I have pictures but they are home on my computer and I'm at work now. I can post later. Thanks Pete
Also no code compliance. No inspection.
My Uncle helped and is an experienced carpenter. I'm building this camp right next to a smaller camp that is already there and will eventually be attached by way of a breezeway. We used a water level to mark each tube after they were set. We then cut each tube down to the mark and poured them. They should be all level. Pete
Quote from: peteh2833 on November 24, 2007, 07:39:03 PM
I did put the brackets in when it was wet because I wanted to make sure everything was square.
I'm not following that statement? Should that read "did
not put" ?
Sorry I fixed it. It should have been didn't.
That's what I was trying to figger out as well Don ???
I assume did NOT was intended.
Well with no code to meet and what you've described is a solid post and pier setup , I'd epoxy into the pier a piece of Galv. threaded 5/8 rod into the concrete at least 8 " that sticks up at least 1" above the beam tops ( if it's to long you can cut it off , the projecting rod , later with a sawsall) then you could use a piece of steel bar stock 1/4 thick and as wide as you built up beam , so a 1/4"x 5 1/2" x 5 1/2" steel washer at each post to beam connection .
Thanks for the compliments on the solid base. I was wondering if it was good enough!!!
I understand the part about the all thread. drill into the pier and then drill through the beam. The 1/4 steel stock is the hangup. Do u mean make a square washer as wide as the beam out of the 1/4 stock and then put that on top of the all thread and tighten it down with a nut?
Quote from: peteh2833 on November 24, 2007, 08:08:11 PM
Thanks for the compliments on the solid base. I was wondering if it was good enough!!!
I understand the part about the all thread. drill into the pier and then drill through the beam. The 1/4 steel stock is the hangup. Do u mean make a square washer as wide as the beam out of the 1/4 stock and then put that on top of the all thread and tighten it down with a nut?
YUP! That will hold"er" down and stop it from tipping over. I'm no engineer but you don't need one if you have no code to meet . Ask your uncle what his plan was , he may have a better idea , but I'm sure that threaded rod and washer / nut setup will meet and /or exceed your needs for a positive tie.
I'm pretty sure that is what he had planned. He won't always be there to assist me so I figured I should get a start on it. Thanks Peg688 for all the help. You too Mountain Don
What do you recommend putting between the beam and the concrete as a barrier? Also do you think I should use pressure treated for the beam and joists???
Quote from: peteh2833 on November 24, 2007, 08:55:26 PM
#1: What do you recommend putting between the beam and the concrete as a barrier?
#2: Also do you think I should use pressure treated for the beam and joists???
#1: 30 lbs felt or a piece of comp shingle.
#2: Not needed if it's all under the cabin , no cantilevered deck joist or other "uncovered " porch ares are there? If that answer is no the PT lumber is not needed.
You are up in the air /off the ground at least 6 " minimum right?
No cantilevered areas or uncovered areas. It is up off of the ground by at least 6". Thanks for the help. My next problem to tackle is how to insulate the floor joists?
Quote from: peteh2833 on November 24, 2007, 10:21:18 PM
My next problem to tackle is how to insulate the floor joists?
Small child / wife , cookies on other end as payment if small child . If it's a wife your on your own as to how to intice / pay back for the crawl work
Promise to : [bbq] for life ?
Never [burp] again !
Or [oops] again !
Anyway good luck in your quest [rofl2]
Crimoney, PEG. [scared]
You're having too much fun. rofl
[rofl2]
[zipped]
Yes indeedie [sunny] Opps [burp]
I hope I don't get in trouble for this. [panic]
John did ask me in a PM if I saw what we could do with smilies. hmm
I took that to mean he wanted more. [innocent]
I kinda got into a batch of good quality smilies and couldn't stop. [sad1]
Some of them are a little large, but cool. IF you were interested in shrinking some of the larger ones I have that ability. ques2
We could, but the original ones are a bit too small on my screen - running high res -- so somewhere in between could be good. About the size of your hmm guy.
I'll do a couple tomorrow as a trial
I guess we really hijacked this thread.
I hope we did as well as we could to answer the original question. I know - [idea]- let's all check it over again.
I think it's just a bit of getting used to the new forum. [innocent]
Quote from: glenn kangiser on November 25, 2007, 01:20:38 AM
I hope we did as well as we could to answer the original question.
I believe we did well.
Yeah - I think we did pretty good but -- another thought or two.
Insulate the floor joists. hmm
Were you planning on putting anything under them to keep critters out?
Mostly we have agreed here that it is not in the best interest to do it if there is a chance it will get wet, so that pretty well leaves it up to doing it afterward as PEG alluded to. :)
Yeppers. We've been down this "when to insulate the floor" road before. IF, one could be 100% certain that it was not going to rain/snow before the entire wall/roof system was dried in, then there would be nothing wrong with insulating the floor as it's being built. Ya' got to admit it could definitely be somewhat easier.
BUT, I've seen enough well planned plans go awry, that I've discarded the idea. Crap happens and I've been on the receiving end before and don't like it. It's especially nasty when it happens because of something you did, or didn't do, yourself.
So that only leaves the materials to be used to be decided. And the rodent proofing, if you're so inclined.
What? No rodent smilie? [shocked] I like the smilies. Pretty soon we won't have to type any words at all. Just get the right combination of smilies and the message will be clear.
I would put some type of rodent control underneth. I guess I would have to insulate later since I will not have it sheathed and the roof on for some time. It will be an extended project.
Sounds like a plan, peteh.
[mouse]
Then you can keep out desdawgs mice.
We spoke of adding 1/4 inch hardware cloth, Tyvek or Typar with slits, pegboard. The only one they couldn't possibly chew through would be the hardware cloth.
I found some links to old discussions. [smile]
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3268.0
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3179.0
[mouseno]
I'll take a look at the old discussions when I have some time. Thanks Pete