My wife and I have been following this website for some time now, and have decided to purchase the 20x30 1 ½ story plans and expand it to 45'. We plan to include a 10' wrap around porch on the front and sides, with a 20x10' enclosed expansion on the rear. We decided to go with the pier and beam foundation after reading several studies on the foundation types, their costs, and benefits in my area. I have just completed 3 rows of rebar, footers, 12" concrete piers, and 6x6 brackets. The four corner pier footers are appropriately 36" wide, and 2 ½' deep. The others are around 24" at the same depth. The concrete piers and their footers are 5500psi concrete. Our progress will be slow but steady, with lots of pictures to come.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/Footers1_zps8abf6928.jpg)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/footers6_zpsd136e70a.jpg)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/Footers2_zps9d1686fb.jpg)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/footers7_zpsdb08ae97.jpg)
w* Keep the pictures and updates coming. One thing nice about the forum is that there is always someone who has "been there and done that" which might prove vital later. Just ask.
w* Where at in Texas? I spent the 1st 2 weeks of my life in Texas ;D Looking forward to watching your build!
Quick clarification to my original post: The two end pier footers at each corner are 36" wide. I want to clarify this given that I read somewhere that the second to the last corner piers carry the most weight when compared to the others.
Our foundation construction is nearing completion. Below are a set of pictures of our progress.
The 6X6 wood piers were leveled using a water level created from a 2$ dollar plastic tube. You can see it in the background on the right. It was surprisingly easy and accurate, once we got the hang of it.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/footerswoodposts3.jpg)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/footerswoodposts.jpg)
Each of the three built-up beams is made up of 10 2X12X16s and 4 2X12X8s. They were built on top of the piers with each splice positioned over a pier.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0014.jpg)
While I obviously disagree with the position of some people regarding the use of pier and beam foundations, I certainly agree with the need to adequately brace them. I utilized 4X6s and 4X4s for this task. The interior is braced at every other pier. While it feels as sturdy as a tank, I am considering adding bracing to the rest of the interior piers.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0022.jpg)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0013.jpg)
Wow, looks solid. I don't think you'll ever look back and say, "darn I wish I hadn't added that extra bracing". But on the other hand if you don't add it, you might wish you did.
Quote from: Mike 870 on November 11, 2012, 10:15:43 AM
Wow, looks solid. I don't think you'll ever look back and say, "darn I wish I hadn't added that extra bracing". But on the other hand if you don't add it, you might wish you did.
I think you are right. An $100 of extra braces is worth the potential of avoiding damage from unusally strong winds.
Looks great. I'm glad to see another TX build. Now that it has cooled off, this is our prime building time. I'm taking next week off to get more done on mine.
The heat in TX is something to avoid. It is nice to have some cooler weather roll through during this build.
This is an example of bracing piers, if I can say so myself! I am sure we will not regret the extra work of bracing all piers in all directions. Next up is the floor platform.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0037.jpg)
Quote from: drbuilder on October 18, 2012, 08:22:06 PM
We decided to go with the pier and beam foundation after reading several studies on the foundation types, their costs, and benefits in my area.
I'm interested in some outside input on this, do you have some links to resources you used for the design of this foundation?
Can someone explain how to level wooden piers using a water level or direct me to a site that explains this? Pictures or video would be outstanding.
Is the water level the simplest way to do this?
Quote from: Don_P on November 18, 2012, 02:42:52 PM
I'm interested in some outside input on this, do you have some links to resources you used for the design of this foundation?
Many sources were used to help me with two objectives:
1)Gain a better understanding of the costs and benefits of many foundation types on expansive clay soils. One of the most useful sources was provided by Structural Committee of the Foundation Performance Association (2004). Foundation Design Options for Residential and Low-Rise Buildings on Expansive Soils, Document #FPA-SC-01-0; Houston Texas. A must read for anyone looking for a balanced approach on the topic.
2)Design a strong pier and beam foundation. I studied reports/information from the State of Texas and Brazos County (i.e., soil surveys, building practices, etc.), construction/tradesman websites (such as this one), construction books, and personal experience.
Quote from: MJW on November 18, 2012, 04:02:11 PM
Can someone explain how to level wooden piers using a water level or direct me to a site that explains this? Pictures or video would be outstanding.
Is the water level the simplest way to do this?
You can simply Google "water level" and you will get several sources including YouTube videos. However, I believe it is a tool that you will not fully understand how to use until you use it. It is very, very simple to use.
What's the latest in Texas?
Hi drbuilder. Can you explain how you attach your braces to your piers and beams? Are they nailed? Screwed? What holds them in place?
Quote from: grover on December 07, 2012, 10:11:47 PM
What's the latest in Texas?
The build is coming along nicely. I will post pictures of our progress within the next week or so.
Quote from: hpinson on December 07, 2012, 10:17:32 PM
Hi drbuilder. Can you explain how you attach your braces to your piers and beams? Are they nailed? Screwed? What holds them in place?
The braces are nailed in place using 60D commons and ring shanks.
I want to post a few pictures of our progress. The floor platform is complete, and I am nearing completion of the first floor framing. See the pictures below.
The floor joists are 2x10x20s.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0065_zpsed357041.jpg)
The floor sheathing is 23x32 T&G nailed in place with ring shanks. I added 3 "joists to girder/beam" ties per joists for uplift protection
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0116_zpsaa4f0523.jpg)
I am platform framing my 1 ½ story home. As a result, the wall studs are 2x6x8s.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0149_zpsb902a68b.jpg)
The walls were built in sections of 12', squared, sheathed with 19/32 plywood, lifted them in place, and braced.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0219_zpsd6dcfa26.jpg)
We are starting to see a home emerge from all the work!
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0306_zps75ffe9c0.jpg)
Nice solid work on your floor and foundation. It becomes a real place once the walls start to define the space.
John, thanks for the kind words. We have continued our work on our house and have made good progress. Below are some pictures:
The second floor includes 2x12x20 joists, 23/32 T&G, glue, and ring shanks. The joists were heavy, but manageable. It is very neat to see and feel the building getting stronger by every sheet, stud, and joist.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0393_zps8cc3f021.jpg)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0407_zps25045f8c.jpg)
The stairs were tricky, given the clearance requirements and our desire to have a comfortable set of stairs. We got it right after a couple tries.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0533_zps43a15789.jpg)
We are very happy that we extended the building to 45'. It is very roomy.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0535_zps49550be4.jpg)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0412_zpsc71de3c6.jpg)
Stairs are tough. Minimum headroom is 6'8" from the stairs to anything overhead. The measurement is taken by laying a board down the finish nosings of the stairs and measuring plumb from the bottom edge of the board to the headbanger above. Stairs should definitely be fully drawn out during the planning stage and made to fit correctly within the building. There's no fun like getting to the stairs and realizing they don't work. It is tempting to put a window at the landing to light a stairway but also think about a person taking a tumble.
Don_P, it was no fun realizing that those beautiful stairs had to be torn back down and redone! The good thing is that it is now up to code and comfortable. We have re-thought the window at the staircase. If we go with one, it will be a Hopper Window.
Progress has continued.
I have completed the second floor walls. As I previously mentioned in an earlier post, I am platform framing this home. After some advice from Don_P, I decided to go with 6' walls to avoid the hinged joint effects. I did build the foundation with the potential of going with taller walls in mind.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0574_zpsc37329f7.jpg)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0597_zpsc31a0e8c.jpg)
Most of the rafters are up. When complete, they will have rafter ties in the lower 3rd of the rise, collar ties will be just below the ridge, and Simpson-type ties on the tails. I considered going with a steeper pitch like 9/12 or higher, but I went with a 6/12 for safety and ease of installation.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0629_zps988d0cb9.jpg)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0653_zpsf255a494.jpg)
There is still much more rafter framing to be done. Here, I am working on the barge and fly rafters. Surprisingly, I have not had too much trouble installing this one. We hope to have this home dried in within a month.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0656_zpsf23eaf37.jpg)
I finally completed the barge and fly rafters. While I had no real problems, if I had to do it again I will use dablack's hinge technique. Here are a couple of pictures of me working on them.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0666_zps431964a8.jpg)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0673_zps935ffccf.jpg)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0682_zps54656ab9.jpg)
This home feels like it has always been where it is. It fits our land so well that we can hardly image the land without it. Built for us by us.
It can be trying when you are working by yourself. If you would have thought about it a very easily constructed scaffold on the inside coming off the gable wall would have made it a lot easier. You could have staged them on it as well as walked from one end of the area to the other without missing a beat getting up/down a ladder.
Similar to what Al did but on a much smaller scale http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10641.msg163217#msg163217
I considered Al's approach. The only problem for me was hanging off the side of the house, 20+ feet in the air, on wood scaffolding. But as you mention, constructing this on the inside of the house may have made the job a little easier.
Quote from: drbuilder on February 28, 2013, 08:02:44 PM
I considered Al's approach. The only problem for me was hanging off the side of the house, 20+ feet in the air, on wood scaffolding. But as you mention, constructing this on the inside of the house may have made the job a little easier.
Dr I have even used 2X's attached to the underside of my rafters (eve and ridge) allowing them to extend past the barge rafter. It allows you to rest the barge rafter on these until they are nailed in place. Once you have them secured just remove the 2Xs. I used 3" deck screws to attach them and they are easily removed later.
Really coming along. Don't be like me and get hung up on the roof. I was trucking until I got up high!
Gotta love building in the cool weather! Much more fun than when it is 100F with 95% humidity.
I will be up at the build site all weekend, finally finishing nailing down the roof decking.
Austin
Austin,
I definitely have a healthy respect for the roof. When I get up there, I will be harnessed and anchored. I noticed that you used a man lift. How did that work out? Was it helpful when installing the plywood on the roof?
Hey Doc,
No man lift for me. What you saw was the skytrak that I used to set the trusses. I rented it for a long weekend and set them myself. I have seen baskets attached to them that guys can ride in, but mine just had fork lift type arms on the front. Plus, if I was in the basket, there would be no one to drive.
The way I lifted plywood to the roof was sort of unique. I nailed 2x4s together to make a quick ramp. Then I got a 110v powered winch. It worked great. I had a flat area on top of the main trusses that I put 3/4" decking on to give me somewhere to stand and then my 9 year old and my wife would lean the roof decking on the ramps, attach a c-clamp, and then I would winch it up. Then I would lower it to where I needed it, then I would attach it. Basically, I was "inside" the house and would lean over the top of the piece I was attaching. I found if the top of the 4x8 sheet hit me right at the waist, I could lean far enough to reach the full four feet and nail it all the way at the bottom. Worked well. Then I used the same winch to lift up the final top trusses.
For your roof, with a much lower pitch, I'm thinking you could just use a rope and C-clamp, rent a man lift/sky trak, or something similar. Really, with the skytrak I rented I could have lifted up sheets of plywood to where I needed them, ran up to the roof and then pulled them off and put them where I needed them, but it would have taken a while and the rental would have been too expensive. My winch was $120-ish and I can still use it for other stuff.
You have three rows of decking on each side. I would get up there, stand between your rafters and see how it feels to pull one piece of decking up with a rope. With you sanding on a step ladder, I think it is going to be ruff.
With less decking to do, it might be worth it to rent a skytrak or something similar. You have about 1000 sq ft of decking to do. I was working on more than 2200 sq ft.
Again, getting the wood up to the roof is the hard part. I think you should be able to do most of the nailing from inside the house on a step ladder.
Good Luck!
With a 6' sidewall standing the sheets on end will poke them above the roof for the first row. You could probably make a platform on a pair of horses tall enough to pick up the sheet, lay it and nail off. Once the first sheet is up I usually stand on it and pull up the next. The next rows I lean up a couple of 2x4's to a rafter. Nail them top and bottom and nail a shelf across that. Slide up several sheet's projecting through the roof and rest them on the shelf. go up top and pull them up as you lay them. With a sheet balanced in the middle they are not too difficult to manuever around.
Thanks Austin and Don_P. This is good information. I will let you know how it goes.
Roof deck and felt done! The house has already survived the first day of rain, without a single drop in it. I had some help from a neighbor who moved on the roof like a spider. Being on the roof that high-up took some getting used to. I was indeed harnessed and anchored. Next will be the shingles.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_0812_zpsd56c7250.jpg)
That's always worth a little celebration. Being dry is a big step up.
I do subfascias, soffit blocking and fascias next, then drip edge (tucked under the felt on the bottom, on top of the felt on the sides, snugged up tight to the fascias)... then finally shingles. Seems like the prep for every big jump takes the time. Homeowners often got antsy while we were detailing before the roof and before siding.
Can't remember if I've mentioned it before, I try to put buttonkaps in the field of the tarpaper over rafters. Someone working up there while its covered in paper can find the framing to attach a toeboard easily if they look for rows of buttonkaps up the roof.
Great job. You officially caught up to me. I have the roof covered as well. Just finished. I need to update my thread too.
Austin
Quote from: Don_P on March 21, 2013, 10:23:40 PM
I do subfascias, soffit blocking and fascias next, then drip edge (tucked under the felt on the bottom, on top of the felt on the sides, snugged up tight to the fascias)... then finally shingles.....
...I try to put buttonkaps in the field of the tarpaper over rafters. Someone working up there while its covered in paper can find the framing to attach a toeboard easily if they look for rows of buttonkaps up the roof.
We are going to keep the rafter tails exposed to give the house a craftsman flare. As a result, the plywood over the eaves is exterior grade. Also, most of the drip edge is already installed. Lastly, you offer a good suggestion regarding the button nails. While I did use them, I spaced them without regard to the rafters. Maybe next time!
Quote from: dablack on March 22, 2013, 11:34:25 AM
Great job. You officially caught up to me. I have the roof covered as well. Just finished. I need to update my thread too.
Austin
Well, my only goal was to make my time on the roof as short as possible!
Below are the latest pictures of our progress. The most important accomplishment at this phase was the completion of the roof. I decided to shingle it to give it a more residential look. I did the whole roof by myself with only a few hours worth of help from a friend. I was quite uncomfortable when I started the roofing. At the ended I found it to be very enjoyable. That being said, it has been one of the most difficult aspects of the built. So, hats off to those who do this for a living. I also installed some windows with more to come. I also dug and set the posts for the wrap-around porch. Completing the porch will be the focus of the next phase of work.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1044_zps9286a4aa.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1044_zps9286a4aa.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1090_zps863e1dcd.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1090_zps863e1dcd.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1094_zps6d677959.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1094_zps6d677959.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1091_zps3ee7e9ce.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1091_zps3ee7e9ce.jpg.html)
Here are some updates. I am about 50% complete with the wrap-around porch. It measures about 9ft X 56ft and is comprised of pressure-treated lumber. I will be working on the roof assemblies this month.
2x8 deck joists
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1129_zps508ba6a5.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1129_zps508ba6a5.jpg.html)
The column/roof post blocking on top of the 4x10 deck beam.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1130_zpse4cf767d.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1130_zpse4cf767d.jpg.html)
2x6 decking.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1139_zpsa30170a4.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1139_zpsa30170a4.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1160_zpsd5e24537.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1160_zpsd5e24537.jpg.html)
The wrap-around corner.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1163_zps041d7570.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1163_zps041d7570.jpg.html)
The completed decking and the 2x10 roof ledger board.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1165_zpsa048357f.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1165_zpsa048357f.jpg.html)
Looks REALLY sharp. That porch on the front is really going to even out the house. Nice looking for sure. Gotta love a 9' deep porch. Does the porch face south?
Our little porch (really roof overhang) is 4.5" deep and not a drop of direct sunlight hits the front of the house. Keeps it nice and cool.
Austin
Thanks Austin. The porch is SE facing. We believe it will be one of the best features of the home.
Being 3/4's of the way through a 36x12 deck - I can apreciate the hard work being completed on yours
I had the GC do the roof and I'm just doing the decking- my 2 day job is now in its 4- mainly due to coctail hours and epdm glue making the waterproofing into crinkly lettuce
Keep going ! its all looking good
UK4X4 thanks for the kind words. Like you, this project has taught us that plans are goals that you must be willing to change as unforeseen circumstances dictate. Every phase has taken me at least twice as long as I originally thought.
More photos of progress.
We used 4x6X8(actual size) solid cedar posts that we bought from a neighbor along with some larger cedar lumber (8x8s and 10x10s) for less than 50$. That was a deal that I could not pass up. They look really nice and are very straight. While we avoided the bowing prone exterior grade SP lumber, we had to search for post bases that could hold them. I will complete the shingles, stairs, and railings in the coming months after a much needed break.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1274_zpsbb9b15a6.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1274_zpsbb9b15a6.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1297_zps63b87c29.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1297_zps63b87c29.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1310_zpsceeb430b.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1310_zpsceeb430b.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1372_zpscafbcd4a.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1372_zpscafbcd4a.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_1376_zpsdf65ebb4.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_1376_zpsdf65ebb4.jpg.html)
That looks awesome drbuilder!
I'm doing the same thing right now also...my back porch.
I was wondering, I always thought that you can just toe-nail the porch rafters directly to the ledger board. I notice that you have a board above the ledger board and then you attach your rafters to that. Can it be done with just one ledger board instead of using another one above that first one?
Also, did you just toe-nail the rafters to the ledger or did you end up using joist-hangers?
Again, great pictures - thank you for taking the time to show us all your progress sir.
al
Thanks Al. I have followed your build closely as well.
They are both ledger boards. However, I decided that I wanted more pitch than the first ledger so I set another one a bit higher to give me a 2/12 pitch, given that I wanted to keep my cedar post at 8'. This ledger is also nailed into the second floor rim (header) joist and studs. I will use the lower ledger for a ceiling that I may construct later. We actually like the exposed look of it. The porch rafters are attached to the ledger using a Simpson ridge rafter connector and additional toe nailing.
Hope this helps
This looks fantastic! Great job. I really appreciate all of the pictures. They are helping me tremendously as I try to design out my workshop. I believe I will follow your plans closely as your house looks nice and sturdy!
Sounds Good. Good luck with your build.
DrB,
The house is looking great but I do have a question. Why did you go with a tall 1.5 story and not a full two story. If your second floor would have been a full 8', then you put on another set of 2x12s, you could have been standing on a decked attic to build your roof. I know if would be lots more materials and if that is the reason, I understand, but for me the addition of a full attic would be worth it. I'm just wondering what your motivation was.
The reason I'm asking is now that my build is gone, in the next build, I'm thinking of a full two story.
thanks
Austin
Austin,
My decisions have been influenced by my understanding of sound building practices, my skills and comfort levels, and costs (in that order). I did not initially choose the full 2 story because I wanted a less challenging project. While I wanted to build the 1 ½ story balloon framed, I was always concerned about having to build a 12/12 roof, and gusseted rafter ties (I did not want to order trusses), just to get half the headroom and living space that I wanted. After advice from Don P, I realized that a platform framed 1 ½ story with 6ft side walls, would give me what I wanted: more space, lower pitched roof, and standard rafter ties. I realized that I could have gone to the full 2 story making the walls taller, rafter ties longer, weight heavier, cost higher, etc. To accommodate the extra weight and height, I would have had to add more piers or even considered the perimeter block foundation. Above all, I believe I have the best of both designs. The overall size of the house gives us more than enough living space, and storage and attic space.
Outstanding explanation. I appreciate you explaining your thought process.
thanks
Austin
I did my upstairs with a 6ft side wall used trusses...........turned out so awsome we moved the main living quarters upstairs !
UK4X4, my point exactly! We were also pleasantly surprised with the space available with 6ft side walls.
An update:
After a much needed rest I got back to work, and a lot of work it was! Since my last post in 2013, I completed a long list of things that included adding a 14x22 addition off the back of the home, installed more windows, boxed in the eaves, and nailed up the wood siding. We are now in the process of enclosing the front porch. Check out the pics below.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_2039_zps24f89921.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_2039_zps24f89921.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_2036_zps043a9b78.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_2036_zps043a9b78.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_2035_zps53ded28c.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_2035_zps53ded28c.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/SAM_2037_zpsb55fbb18.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/SAM_2037_zpsb55fbb18.jpg.html)
Looks really sharp. Can't wait to see it finished.
What made you decide to enclose the front porch?
Thanks Austin for the kind words. We are very close to moving in. Below are the reasons for the enclosed porch in the order of importance:
1) My beautiful wife wanted it
2) Texas-size mosquitoes
3) Texas' blistering heat
4) More living space
Everything is moving along nicely. Framing is complete.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/Mobile%20Uploads/20140412_1414141_zpsd2566cd9.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140412_1414141_zpsd2566cd9.jpg.html)
Looks great. I know you are ready to move to the next phase. Are you doing to be doing plumbing next?
Austin,
I actually completed the plumbing, and water a few months ago. I will post a picture or two regarding it later. I am currently working on the electricity and will have it inspected in the next few weeks. My septic will be installed this weekend. So things are really moving along.
Thats great! Well you are close to sheetrock then. Are you going to have it done or DIY? What about flooring? We need to SEE whats going on!
Our house is becoming a home. The septic is now installed and our master bedroom and bath is mostly complete. So we moved in a few weeks ago. I am now caulking and painting the house. I have done and will do all of the work myself (except the septic, of course). I have learned along this journey to take my time and invest in the right tools when working alone. For example, I purchased a drywall lift that makes drywalling very easy for one person. Attached are a couple pics of the DWV installation. I found it to be more challenging than electricity given the infinite design possibilities, though it is a lot less dangerous. The bad news is that the tax man found us!
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/CAM00184_zps4b617b44.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/CAM00184_zps4b617b44.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/CAM00177_zpsa3b0c51d.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/CAM00177_zpsa3b0c51d.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/CAM00124_zps7321045e.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/CAM00124_zps7321045e.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/20140611_131721_zps20863bc7.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/20140611_131721_zps20863bc7.jpg.html)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/20140611_131904_zps337b5465.jpg) (https://s1299.photobucket.com/user/drbuilder/media/20140611_131904_zps337b5465.jpg.html)
Nice work. I know you are glad to be in there.
Is it an aerobic septic system?
So what is left to complete? Paint?
Also, whats going on with that fence? Do you have animals?
Austin
Quote from: dablack on June 13, 2014, 07:36:10 AM
1) Is it an aerobic septic system?
2) So what is left to complete? Paint?
3) Also, whats going on with that fence? Do you have animals?
1) Yes
2) All I have left to do on the outside are painting, window trimming, and skirting.
3) Just keeping out unwanted animals.
Update:
The skirting is complete. I used 1/2 inch exterior plywood supported every 4 feet. Vents were also added on all four sides. I am still completing the painting. Above all, we love the new look.
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/CAM00232_zpsa4e1ea06.jpg)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/CAM00209_zps9507a063.jpg)
(https://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag80/drbuilder/20140814_110217-1-11_zps660c5ac1.jpg)
very nice!