1x6 SYP for siding?

Started by lockman, October 31, 2008, 12:58:04 PM

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lockman

I just found a heck of a deal on 1x6x16' SYP boards. Would this be ok to use for siding as long as it's sealed and stained? What would be the best way to fasten it? It's just regular 1x6's, with no kind of T&G.

ScottA

Yellow pine doen't take stain very well unless it's very very dry. I'd suggest a solid stain and be sure to do all surfaces of the boards. You can do a lap install or a rain screen or both.


PEG688

How are you planing on installing it? Like lap/ bevel siding, horizontally? Or vertically as a board and batten type siding?
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

lockman

I'd prefer a horizontal siding. Would it be best to cut some kind of  T&G into it, or could I just overlap it?

glenn kangiser

Overlaps work well.  I have done that with my garage and wavy siding.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


PEG688

Quote from: lockman on November 01, 2008, 09:37:38 AM


I'd prefer a horizontal siding. Would it be best to cut some kind of  T&G into it, or could I just overlap it?



Neither is a good idea. bevel siding  is BEVELED  for a reason. Just overlapping 3/4" boards will look like crap , and they will crack when you nail them, or shortly after IF you nail thru both pieces. Wood siding needs to move and should be nail in such a way as to not "trap" both boards together. The nails should be just over the top of the course below. Thats why its' beveled , so the angle of the siding isn't so steep.

Ship lapping the boards is a option, not a good one IMO for weather proofing , but it's been done before . There's not really enough over lap doing it that way. And you MTL don't have a table saw to rip all  the rabbits as both edges of all boards will need rabbited.  Read lots of work , even with the right tooling.

 
This is another hair brained idea, IMO. Sorry Glenn , to many bad ideas this week. I had to say something.

     
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

Not a problem, PEG...

The best looking lap I did I cut thin - 1/2" - not an option with no mill --

It was only a garage I was not concerned about.  The thick stuff that looked fairly OK was 20 inches wide on th shop.  Again, an I don't care too much area.  Some splits were noticed.

You are of course right when it comes to fine craftsmanship and things that matter. :)

Listen to PEG...not me. [crz]
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

cordwood

Also if you run them horiz. they will curl and realy look like crap! :-\ 30 plus inches of rain here. ;)
I cut it three times and it's still too short.

PEG688

Quote from: cordwood on November 01, 2008, 10:51:58 PM


Also if you run them horiz. they will curl and realy look like crap! :-\ 30 plus inches of rain here. ;)



Yes they would curl , they could also split depending on what you do and how you do it.

The only way you could do it with good results , would be vertically as a board and batten look.

Horizontal siding should be beveled.


Hardi isn't beveled , but it's also NOT wood , the LP's and Smart lap type sidings are NOT beveled either , but again they are not wood and they are not 3/4" thick. 

That's the rub a thick board will move MORE than a thin one , more chance to warp , twist , buckle , and crack.





   
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


lockman

Thanks for advice guys. I'll just pay the extra and get actual siding instead. Are there any pros / cons to the different types of horizontal siding patterns? Is a regular beveled pattern about the best?