ridge vent

Started by MarkAndDebbie, August 21, 2007, 09:00:03 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

PEG688

Depends I made my own , so it depends , If you have to ask MTL it could mean they'd be hard. Harder than say for me which I'd think the level would be basic . So It depends    
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

Ernest T. Bass

Are there any basic design principles one should follow? I think I could make them pretty easily, if I had some plans or something.. We have a compound miter saw, so the angles aren't a problem.

Our family's homestead adventure blog; sharing the goodness and fun!


MountainDon

I can't say I've ever seen plans. However, keeping in mind that as well as providing ventilation (which you could accomplish with a hole) the other design criteria is to exclude rainfall as well as insects, birds and rodents.

So behind the louvering be certain to install metal insect screening for the bugs and small birds as well as hardware cloth (1/4 inch or smaller) for the rodents.

Other than that I can't think of anything else. Oh, follow whatever your local guidelines are for so many sq. in. of vent space per 100/1000 sq. ft.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

tc-vt

If you are using exposed fastener metal roofing, the company probably offers different width ridge caps.  I used abc metal roofing (American Building Components) AmeriDrain profile.

Page 7 of their online trim and accessories catlog has the ridge cap options:
http://www.abcmetalroofing.com/abcroofing/pdf/catalog_29gauge.pdf

As far as venting, I have read some opinions that state the best way to vent with certainty that you are providing sufficient venting is to have a mechanical venting system (ie. exhaust fans and the like).

Then there is the no-venting argument.  My roof here in Northeast Vermont is not vented and is insulated with closed cell foam.  There will be no insulation above the top floor ceiling.

Now, this question has just entered my mind:  with a non-vented roof like mine, should there be venting between the top floor living space and the attic space so as to promote air exchange between the two areas to make the conditioned attic space even *more* like the living space below it?

Tom

Ernest T. Bass

We have hidden fasteners in our roof..

As far as a mechanical venting goes, we would rather stay away from electrically-powered doo-dads, as we are striving to be "off the grid".. I know that small solar panels are always an option, but the more complicated the system gets the more likely you will have to run to the store to buy parts if/when things fail..

Our family's homestead adventure blog; sharing the goodness and fun!


PEG688

Mt D , Ernie's got other issues so any venting would be better than nuttin.

Some 4 "  thru wall vents tucked uo there one on each side of center , could work as well . They are pretty low profile . Is the palce sided yet?
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

Ernest T. Bass

The gable has skip sheathing on the outside, and we will be installing cedar shakes soon. If I had to make cutouts for the vent, I'd have to add braces behind the 1x3's to secure them around the opening.

Our family's homestead adventure blog; sharing the goodness and fun!

PEG688

Ok Ernie , you really don't want to vent the area so I'll tell you what you want to hear ." It will be fine the way it is !"

I'm telling you something I don't beleive is true  but ................. nuttin else seems to be working  :'(  And yanno it could be fine , maybe  :-/  Time will tell.

G/L with those shakes :)
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

Ernest T. Bass

Well, how is time going to tell? :) I'd rather go through the extra hassle than end up with permanent moisture damage to the roof structure... It wouldn't be "impossible" to add the gable vents, just difficult because of the situation we have. If it really means a big difference, I think it would be worth it to try and add them.

Our family's homestead adventure blog; sharing the goodness and fun!


PEG688

Quote


#1: Well, how is time going to tell? :)

#2: It wouldn't be "impossible" to add the gable vents, just difficult because of the situation we have. If it really means a big difference, I think it would be worth it to try and add them.


#1: It looks some thing like this ,

 

" Time will tell ", that is . This isn't exactly your situation ,but for pure shock value it's a good example of the basic "time will tell" analogy  ;D

#2: I've given you at least 4 options , you have found away around each one suggested. You will have to put on your best Ernest T. Bass thinking cap to put whats been offered to good use.  

 Boring two each 4 " dia. holes for a thru wall vent shouldn't be a problem , if it is , modify yor specific situation to" Decieve , degrade and destroy" any and all "stopping " forces in your way.

 

Thats the ole squardon motto BTW , Decieve , degrade , destroy! Works in other situations as well.



G/L PEG
 
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

#35
Andrew, one thing to keep in mind is that hot air will carry much more moisture than cool air.  After it heats and carries the moisture to the top, it will cool in the evening.  If it doesn't have a place to flow to while at the top ie: out a vent,  it will drop the moisture where it is as the dew point drops below its capacity to carry it's load of water.  Hard to guess where that will be but it could be a point like in the picture PEG posted.

Vents at the top will allow it to continue on it's merry way and render it harmless.  Waiting to see what happens will take a while -then you can repair the damage if any.  Installing vents may prevent any damage.  Since you asked I am sure you have concerns about it yourself. :)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

PEG688

#36
Ernie heres a example of Decieve , degrade , destroying a problem.

DW just had rotator cuff repair surgery yesterday, so she's "one handed" left only for about 6 weeks , or so sez the Doc.

Well our lazy boy recliners are both RH models , if they make a LH model I don't know , but for  a temp fix for her to raise and lower the foot rest I ask for Ideas on wooden boat forum and one outside the box thinking guy came up with a pipe idea.

So off to Home Despot for sch 40 elec. conduit , which fits very nice on a  lazy boy brand handle ,  well two trips really  :-[

And here you have a adapted L/B ,







As you can see it hits the floor when the rest is down , but to be long enought to reach around to grab that was the lenght it needed to be .

 D, D ,& D your issues  ;)  
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

Okie_Bob

Peg, if that is a cup holder you added, I want one!
Gotta love the simplicity of that design.
And I hate to sound like a broken record but.....Icynene with no vent..problem solved.!
Okie Bob

PEG688

Quote

And I hate to sound like a broken record but.....Icynene with no vent..problem solved.!


Lil late for that Bob I think Ernie's all insulated and IIRC sheetrocked , I doubt he wants to rip that all out and start over.

Good stuff Icynene , we've  used it in " special " places .  Spendy , but sometimes it all that will work in a remodel for new work a guy should be able to weight the costs and decide IF it's the best bang for the buck .  
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


Okie_Bob

You are so right Peg, it is not for everyone and is expensive. My little house cost way more than I had wanted to pay but, I do like everything about it. The noise deadening is almost worth the price by itself and I can't hear worth a flip. Hope I'm right and it pays for itself soon.
Okie Bob

Ernest T. Bass

Well, our criteria when it came to choosing and insulation material was cheap, natural, diy, and cheap. :) We insulated our 1200 sq. ft. ceiling to R-38 for around 400 bucks w/ cellulose. I wanted to go dense-pack, as that would eliminate the need for ventilation, but then you'd need a specially trained installer and we have none around here that I know of..

What exactly is a thru-wall vent? Kinda like a dryer vent?

As far as installing the jack vents go.. How many do you think we'd need? 2 on either side, within a few feet of the peak? I think those would be the best solution to my problem, but I'm just so scared to cut into that roof... :o What would be the most leak-proof way to install one? Just put lots of caulk around the hole and use lots of screws?

Our family's homestead adventure blog; sharing the goodness and fun!

peg_688

#41
Quote


What exactly is a thru-wall vent? Kinda like a dryer vent?

As far as installing the jack vents go.. How many do you think we'd need? 2 on either side, within a few feet of the peak? I think those would be the best solution to my problem, but I'm just so scared to cut into that roof... :o What would be the most leak-proof way to install one? Just put lots of caulk around the hole and use lots of screws?


 AHRRRRRRRRRRUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUGHHHHHHHH  Ernest T. your just pullinmy chain right! ::)



The little black thing is a thru wall / thru roof vent,  [highlight]on the new Cedar siding above the window to the left behind the tree [/highlight], generally they are used for exhaust fans and 4" pipe gets hooked to the 4" plastic pipe sorta deal that sticks into the house. They also have a flapper door , which you should bust off, easy to do, then you'd have a 4" hole for air to flow out . I'd put 2 each on either side of center on each end .



 




Ernest_T._Bass

Quote
Quote


What exactly is a thru-wall vent? Kinda like a dryer vent?

As far as installing the jack vents go.. How many do you think we'd need? 2 on either side, within a few feet of the peak? I think those would be the best solution to my problem, but I'm just so scared to cut into that roof... :o What would be the most leak-proof way to install one? Just put lots of caulk around the hole and use lots of screws?


 AHRRRRRRRRRRUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUGHHHHHHHH  Ernest T. your just pullinmy chain right! ::)



Ummm... And how is that?  :-? ;D

MountainDon

Paul, I have a question, not related to this venting thing. The photo you posted raised a question. The house pictured has a roof with a curved surface. Not sure what that's called. Also not sure how is that constructed... buy the rafter material at HD taking the stuff no one else wants??   ;D ;D  Seriously, to satisfy my curiosity how's it done.

glenn-k

Here is a kind of sloppy example of how to do commercial vents at the ridge.



peg_688

QuotePaul, I have a question, not related to this venting thing. The photo you posted raised a question. The house pictured has a roof with a curved surface. Not sure what that's called. Also not sure how is that constructed... buy the rafter material at HD taking the stuff no one else wants??   ;D ;D  Seriously, to satisfy my curiosity how's it done.


It's a kit type house built in 1981 IIRC orginal owners still live there. They use a laminated bowed rafter set up , we never cut into the old roof , but thats what the plan said . At least the truss's came from a kit type place . This link is a similar setup unlikely it's the same outfit that did the org. house.

http://www.bowhouse.com/

Ernest T. ,  why ya wastin my time  ::)  :(

peg_688

QuoteHere is a kind of sloppy example of how to do commercial vents at the ridge.



Maybe I'm not being clear , the vent goes in the gable end side wall , NOT ON THE ROOF!

Instead of a trianglar vent , put one  each common old vent on either side of the king post holding up the ridge .

I give up   :'(  I have failed the whole forum  :'( I suck  :'(

 ;D  ;) Or yous guys can't read , or see for that matter , humm,  I like that better ;D
 

glenn-k

Noooo - you haven't failed, PEG.  I understood your posting for the gable end vent.  It was clear to me.  Holes in the endwall with  vent caps installed in them.

I was just answering the other part of the question if I read it right -- seems he wanted to know about how to do ridge vent jacks  too. :)

QuoteAs far as installing the jack vents go.. How many do you think we'd need? 2 on either side, within a few feet of the peak?

peg_688

#48
Quote

I was just answering the other part of the question if I read it right -- seems he wanted to know about how to do ridge vent jacks  too. :)

quote]

Well roof jacks like that,  installed up close or under a metal ridge cap is going to leak , very bad idea. IMO. YMMV.

I'm not sure what Ernest wants or is asking any more , I really think he's just %$#*&^% around with me / us  >:(  Maybe I'm wrong and he just doesn't get it , but I don't know how to explain it any better. :'( And my fingers are sore from typing  :(

glenn-k

OK -- so now we also know why you didn't want to use that type vent too. :)

I think Ernest is just having a problem getting it all straight due to the vagueness of the internet medium and the problems of expressing oneself via typing short messages back and forth, -- no mal-intent. :)

....and just look at how much your typing skills have improved over the last couple of years. ;D