Building a near free RV storage garage

[MountainDon]

Glenn, how much did you overlap the rough sawn siding? How dry/wet was the wood and did you get much longitudinal shrinking? Across the width?

I'm trying to get a good price from the sawmill as we love the look of the natural edge.  Oh, one more question; did you cut the covered edge straight and square or leave it natural as well?  I know, I'm just full of questions.

[glenn kangiser]

Not a problem, Don. 

I lapped it about an inch and got near that much shrinkage -- It is only a garage but it has a couple places that a bit more lap would have been nicer.

I would say 12 inch boards shrunk 3/4 to 7/8.  One year or so old whole logs cut into boards.  Not super wet cedar.  Remember to make a bit more lap than that at your narrowest place.  Lengthwise was negligible.

I cut the covered edge off as it is easier to get a good lap with only one wavy edge.  You can do that with a chalkline and skilsaw rather than bother the mill with it if you like.

I think I only cut them about 1/2 inch thick as I was only concerned with covering the empty wall space.  Some go 5/8.

[glenn kangiser]

Got a few e-mail questions today - thought they may be of interest here.


Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2008 19:59:07 -0800
From: Terry
Subject: saw mill questions?
To: glenn-k

Hi Glenn,
I just read the forum "building a near free RV storage garage". I was absolutely blown away by this project. It turned out great! I figured you could best answer my question about milling logs. I live in Arkansas and we cut down several large southern pine trees clearing the way to build our cabin. I would love to cut several 1x6's from these pines to use in our cabin for ceiling, walls, etc. My question is, Is there a time frame to when these pine logs can be cut and used? I'm wondering about shrinkage after cutting. Does the cut lumber have to dry before using? My husband and I think its a waste of good pine not to mill them. We've never had logs milled before and don't really know if it would be worth it.
I really enjoy reading the forums at Country Plans and have already bought one of Johns plans.
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Terry

Hi Terry,

The Southern pine is a great wood for building with.  The cutting could be best done within the first 6 months or so -- They can be good for up to a couple of years but get a bit harder to cut and check- crack into the sides of the log  and into the boards as they get older.

To keep them good a bit longer, it is best that they are kept out of contact with the soil.  Use waste logs or rail road ties etc to get them off of the ground.  Destruction beyond usability can occur in a year or maybe less.

Sometimes poor wood can be used in low strength applications such as siding or something else.  If in contact with the soil, fungi send out tendrils into the soil and draw water into the log to help decompose it, causing a lot of the wood to decay and it may not be usable.  Bugs love the wet wood and termites - grubs - beetles etc go to work.  This is not all bad though.  If the decay is not too bad then the beetle larvae leave neat trails under the bark in the cambium layer and especially if it is to be used as posts or whole logs - beams etc, it has a nice decorative effect to it.  The bugs working help you to remove the bark easier - around 6 months or so.

Shrinkage at about the rate of 5/8 inch or so per foot of width does occur as the wood dries and varies with types and conditions.  The water between the cells must dry out before the water in the cells will dry out causing the shrinkage so depending on conditions it can take around a year air drying.  Use wet OK ?- yes...Simply allow for it in your design using plenty of lap or board and batten etc.  If making shiplap, I go about 7/8" wide laps on wet wood, or if just edge lapping then I go around 1" or so - especially if wavy edges are used - do it at the narrowest point.

I'd say mill and use them -- you will enjoy having your own natural resources in your house.

I will post this to the forum under the garage topic also removing your address details, but please feel free to email or post - either way.

Hoping to see some of your topics on the forum also.

Glenn

[MountainDon]

A moisture meter can be a good tool to have when using your own timber/wood. A moisture content of 14% is generally the maximum if you are going to paint. That may take a while to achieve when air drying.

[glenn kangiser]

A good point, Don -Harbor Freight has them cheap too.

Another thing is that wood doesn't have to be painted.  May hundred year old houses around here with no paint.  Furniture or logs look nice with a clear finish on them though.  We like gloss.

[MountainDon]

Yep... agreed paint is not necessary, but sometimes useful. A clear finish lets the wood show through,    However, IMO, wood should never be glossy.   

But that's why there are different folks, as well as different finishes.      Sounds like a potential topic for a poll... 

[MountainDon]

FWIW, foliage of Christmas trees will not support flame unless the moisture content has fallen to values of 50 to 65 percent (varies by species).

There is no documented evidence that a natural Christmas tree ever self ignited.

 

[glenn kangiser]

Good info, Don....although my wife thinks I may spontaneously combust at some time in the near future...   At least I will not worry about the trees.

[sjk4x4@hotmail.com]

If I had seen your instructions on t.v., Id say "B.S.!  Who has that many heavy construction tools and gets that many materials for free!" Your finds are awesome.

[rick91351]

If I had seen your instructions on t.v., Id say "B.S.!  Who has that many heavy construction tools and gets that many materials for free!" Your finds are awesome.

Hey welcome from Rick

One thing about people on this forum; some take scavenging and salvage to a new height.  (Glen is a master guru if this.)

It really is a case of one mans junk pile is another mans treasure.         

 

[archangel]

So, how is the finger doing after healing all this time?
If it were me it would probably be good for pointing or scratching, but not much else.

Jigs up I guess, huh PEG.  Yep --I smashed it - I still haven't figured out how - I was throwing about a 200 lb rock behind the left big rock - I readjusted it to make it set better and --dang it --didn't pull that finger out quick enough.  Got about a 1 1/2 inch long gash filleted about to the bone on the side of my left index finger.  

Made it hard to do that work today ---no-- I didn't go to the doctor -- they scare me.  I'm a wuss.



Note - the rest are there -just folded over.  I'm not that careless. :-/

[glenn kangiser]

Hmm - I think I know that SJK guy.  

to the forum, little fella.

I have to go back and read this topic.  I forget what kind of BS I wrote on it - it was so long ago.... woops..... there goes the rest of the mind..

Rick, I have junk in piles that few have even seen the bottom of before...

archangel, the finger looks normal except about 3/32 inch wider and flatter than it used to be, and has no feeling around the lower inside of the first knuckle.  Feeling is OK at the tip and all else on it works normal.  I'm flattered......


at least my finger is....

[archangel]

archangel, the finger looks normal except about 3/32 inch wider and flatter than it used to be, and has no feeling around the lower inside of the first knuckle.  Feeling is OK at the tip and all else on it works normal.  I'm flattered......


at least my finger is....

I had a cyst removed from that same finger off the middle knuckle joint and after a few months I still have almost 1/4 inch left where it will not close all the way in a fist.
I guess if I ever have the need to punch with it I will just have to grab a roll of quarters first.

[glenn kangiser]

That should be effective.