I thought I'd start a new thread on this since we went through major changes since the original conception. We are starting with a 6x12 deep vee nosed cargo trailer and want to end up with a travel trailer of sorts. The general plan is to be basic and functional rather than have all the frills and be fancy. It is not all that big but that is a part of the point of the exercise.
Today I brought the trailer home and parked it beside the garage. It has 6'6" headroom inside, for now. That will decrease as it gets insulated. Photos of our new baby...
Head on view of the deep vee. Six feet across the width, 4 feet from there to point. Front jack is a swivel mount type.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/headonexterior.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/headonexterior.jpg.html)
front quarter view
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/frontdoorinveeside.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/frontdoorinveeside.jpg.html)
Interior view, looking back from door in vee. The wheel wells are welded sheet steel. The factory followed the directive to not install the 'trim' strips as the interior plywood will be removed to insulate against the skin. The fasteners that secure the 3/8 plywood to the wall framing are real screws. Easy to remove with a drill driver.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/interiorviewfromfront.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/interiorviewfromfront.jpg.html)
View looking forward from the open rear doors.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/interiorviewfromrear.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/interiorviewfromrear.jpg.html)
Exterior rear view
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/rearexterior.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/rearexterior.jpg.html)
15" radials showing the slim fenders.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/wheelsinsidebody.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/wheelsinsidebody.jpg.html)
The previously posted floorplan may have some refinements, but it will be pretty much only minor adjustments.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/TTT%20Trailer/trlr1amp2copysml.jpg)
[cool]. I thought that you were going to make a teardrop trailer?
MtDon:
I like the trailer . . . Especially with the front door. I had never seen one before.
If you are open to suggestions . . .
Consider a "fold-out" couch where the bed is. You would have a place to sit and then open it into a bed. And, make the various components so they can be easily removed in case you need to haul cargo.
Good Luck with the build.
/.
Quote from: Redoverfarm on January 21, 2014, 08:58:37 PM
[cool]. I thought that you were going to make a teardrop trailer?
The teardrop grew up. ;D More or less we decided that if we were going to make something we wanted to be able to have a shower, however small it would be. Plus stand up room, as small as that may be, for rainy days.
We spent a lot of time going round in circles over the bed; queen size fixed in place vs all sorts of folding, lifting, collapsing ideas. Maybe we're lazy, spoiled or something... but we don't like 'converting' beds into tables, etc. We had that years ago with the class C we had and before that with a Boler. (A Boler is like a Scamp / Casita. Ours was only a 10 footer; 1970-something. :D )
This is an exercise in many compromises.
Quote from: MountainDon on January 21, 2014, 11:36:16 PM
This is an exercise in many compromises.
That's an art. Compromise.
Looks like a brand new one! really nice. I will take many notes of what you do as I plan to make one myself.
I have so many questions but I will just sit tight and enjoy the ride for a while c*
Good luck Don! I would have been happy to give you a hand but you are "only" 2000 miles away! One day ;)
Picked up some 1" and 2" polyiso insulation.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/polyisoinsulation.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/polyisoinsulation.jpg.html)
Some progress, or proof that I have been working on the project.
The first layer of polyiso insulation (1") has been cut and inserted / sealed in place; ceiling and walls. Voids filled with great stuff.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/mini-P1060387.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/mini-P1060387.jpg.html)
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/mini-P1060386.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/mini-P1060386.jpg.html)
That's a 21 gallon waste (gray water) collection tank for those times we are in or close enough to civilization to not be able to let it out on the ground. No black water as we will be using a portable toilet when there is nothing available in the camping area.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/mini-P1060384.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/mini-P1060384.jpg.html)
It is just sitting there on wood clamped to the frame to get an idea of how things will go together. Note, that is NOT where the shower will be located. See previous floorplan; (it will be located on the left partly over the section where the gray water tank is located.
FWIW, the documents from the purchase indicate the shipping weight of the trailer was 1050 pounds.
It looks like you will be adding a big window. Did you build the window frame yourself? Are you planning to install an RV window in that space?
RV window yes. I had it framed in when the trailer was built; less trouble for me and at a fair price.
Nice project, can't wait to see how it turns out.
Kitty obviously approves. What more would you want?
Todays progress.
#1
The Fantastic fan is installed along with one of the Fantastic Ultra Breeze Vent cover.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/mini-P1060391.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/mini-P1060391.jpg.html)
#2 The window. I cut a hole in the wall for the window. This was easy. With the window opening framed in with steel already I was able to cut from the interior. I drilled a start hole and used the pointed blade to get a cut started. I used the Sawzall with a 24 tpi metal cutting blade. The steel made a nice guide. I stopped where the corner radius started and switched to cutting from the exterior with a 32 tpi blade in the jig saw. Here's the view of the hole from the inside.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/mini-P1060394.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/mini-P1060394.jpg.html)
Now a shot with the window in place...
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/mini-P1060397.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/mini-P1060397.jpg.html)
The view from the exterior...
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/mini-P1060395.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/mini-P1060395.jpg.html)
I also made mounting support rails for the gray water tank between frame rails, but I did not take a photo yet.
An update. The rear section of the floor...
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/floorrear.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/floorrear.jpg.html)
I did that this morning and took this picture part way through. The frame spaces have been infilled with tight fitting 2" polyisocyanurate. Some of the frame cross members are channel, some are 2x4 rectangular tube. Where there was a channel the foam was fitted into the C-section. I used pieces of 2x4 ripped to fit tightly under the polyiso in the channel. Screws and construction adhesive was used to hold the wood in place. Other section were screwed and glued to the other cross members places to support the polyiso up flush with the frame top.
Then a second layer of 2" polyiso was cut and fitted to fir on top of the frame. Polyiso is rated to be able to support 20 PSI under a floor or under concrete; my cals indicate there should be no issues here. Then the 3/4 plywood that the trailer came with was refitted and screwed down with new longer screws. It was cut sort of loosey goosey, but I'll fill and cover those gaps when more insulation is applied to the inner side of the walls. For the curious let it be noted I cut the foam on the table saw or with a hand held circular saw finishing the cuts with a knife as necessary.
I'm working my way forward to the front. The front will have a 1" layer of foam on top of the frame with the 3/4 plywood on top of that. The rear section will be under the bed so there will be no step up/down to trip over. It is a compromise for headroom where we will be able to stand. The floor insulation will be thicker under the fridge, shower and the counter space in the front left of the vee.
Removed the front portion of the floor...
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/P1060400c.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/P1060400c.jpg.html)
... and then insulated between frame members, then polyiso on top and put the plywood back. Didn't think to take progress photos. I also installed more wire loom than the factory did... the split variety with silicone tape binding.
I also built this thing. Any guesses?
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/P1060402c.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/P1060402c.jpg.html)
How it is mounted. Not visible are the welded angle brackets on the far side of the frame members... just the bolt heads showing.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/a7167c37-1be4-479f-864c-f2e477a51cd8.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/a7167c37-1be4-479f-864c-f2e477a51cd8.jpg.html)
Don you may find some inspiration here under the trailer section and the truck/ camper sections too as there are lots of similar box/van/trailer conversions
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/forums/42-Expedition-Trailers
Thanks UK4X4
Quote from: daveyd007 on February 12, 2014, 02:09:28 AM
Will that LP gas bracket get crushed or hinder you from making tight left turns? Design looks pretty good nevertheless, I'm not sure if I would want one right there which "might" be in the bumper path while turning.
Not a chance of being hit by the tow vehicle. That was checked out before any metal was cut. Not unless I buy a wider vehicle and that has pretty much a zero chance of happening.
It is always interesting to see the different treatments with CTC's. Yours looks like it suits the purpose well.
Nice scenic photographs too. :) :)
Did some more of the rough in 12 VDC wiring today.
Also back to interior foam work. Here I glued a section of 1" polyiso in the vee nose ceiling area. Props are to keep it in place while the polyurethane glued sets.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/P1060410frontceilingfoamboardglued.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/P1060410frontceilingfoamboardglued.jpg.html)
Tomorrow some more if all goes well.
Got another part (accessory) today; probably the only guy in the country who had an A/C delivered today. :) A GE 5050 BTU with remote control. Yeah, I know, a remote in a 6x12 ??? The A/C will be in the rear over the bed; it'll save walking on the bed. ;)
yet another ceiling insulation panel...
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/P1060412aceilinginsulbraces.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/P1060412aceilinginsulbraces.jpg.html)
... with a bunch of bracing till the glue sets.
And the water heater, 6 gallon Suburban, because it fits between the wall ribs with no modifications unlike the Atwood that is wider than the wall rib bays.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/P1060413awaterheater.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/P1060413awaterheater.jpg.html)
Don I didn't pay attention to the shell on whether the wall and ceiling have metal ribs to attach you finished interior wall covering with. And BTW what are you going to use? Something like shower stall material?
Yes John, the roof and walls have 1" deep steel ribs. The walls are a Z-shape.
The ceiling plan is 1" of polyiso between all ribs. Then 1" of polyiso under that all over. Selected areas will have an additional 2" of polyiso. Why the difference? The front area where we can stand will have 1" and that = more headroom. Where we can not stand it gets the extra polyiso.
Walls have 1" polyiso between all ribs. Then the 3/8 plywood will be re-attached to the ribs. Over that 2" of polyiso will be glued to the plywood. Over that will be the FRP shower wall stuff in the shower and kitchen areas. 1/8" or 1/4" plywood will be glued over the foam elsewhere.
The tricky thing about the foam overt the ribs is how to secure anything like a shelf or a cabinet. I'm solving that by not using anything that would normally hang on a wall. There will be a counter on a base cabinet with some shelves that will be built like a hutch; supported by the lower cabinet. There will be a horizontal wood strip embedded under the foam directly attached to the metal ribs to stabilize it.
The polyiso is all foil faced on both sides. That makes glue an issue. Polyurethane glues work well enough. The foil to foil bond with the polyurethane glue between is at least as strong as the manufactured panels foil to polyiso sandwich bond. That's not saying a lot I guess, but foil faced foam polyurethaned to other foil faced foam seems to be able to support its own weight in other trailers.
I was thinking something along these lines. It is available in different thicknesses. Similar to what they use in car wash bays.
http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/prod1;;pg103140w_103140w.html
Signboard... also known under the name CoroPlast. Many of the electioneering signs are made from it. I guess it should take paint well.
One progress photo.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/P1060421sml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/P1060421sml.jpg.html)
The 3/8 plywood has been reattached to the metal wall ribs in the rear section only so far.
Furring strips added to rear section of roof, attached to metal ribbing frames. Infilled with 1/2" polyiso, glued. Then covered with 2" polyiso, glued, plus I used 2" EIFS washers and screws to affix the foam to the furring strips.
EIFS washers, nylon...
(http://sunlinemesh.com/images/fasteners.jpg)
As well 2" polyiso has been glued to the wall plywood, as well as having a few EIFS washers and screws.
I have found that polyurethane glue works well for gluing foam to foam. Still messy stuff but it is a stronger bond than the foam.
Cut outs in the doors are for an A/C unit (right side of image, left of trailer), and a future window. Hinges at top of doors had to be relocated upwards. The hollow doors are almost completely filled with foam in a can at this point. The door with the A/C will be receiving a steel frame reinforcement.
Don Acetone is great when using polyurethane glue to clean up. Also not sure whether you mentioned or not and I wasn't paying attention about a power source. Are you going to have a genset system or solar or combination. If you are going with a quiet genset will there be a storage area or will you just haul in the towing vehicle?
Sorry for the edit. I didn't change anything but I screwed up a "make a quote"... too many tools I can access and I goofed. So I fixed it but the system won't let me hide.
I never mentioned power before; not that I recall at least ;D
I have two 6 volt golf cart batteries that will be series wired. We also have a Honda EU2000i generator we can use to power the A/C directly and to use the Iota DLS-55 (55 amp max) battery charger. The DLS-55 has the IQ4 option that gives it bulk, absorb and float charge capabilities. At some point there will be some solar. Not sure how soon or what exactly yet. Probably a couple hundred watts of panel(s). I'd like a MPPT controller but may settle for a cheap PWM. ??? Two x 100 amp panels with a cheapy controller can be had for about $300. MPPT brings it to about$450. ??? Mounted on the roof they would be good while parked at home or while driving. However we like to camp in the shade. There's a conflict there. Some folks use portable panels they can place in the sun. ???
Forgot to add that there is a Xantrex ProWatt SW, sine wave 2000 watt inverter and a transfer switch from the old RV that will be fitted. Pl;us a shore power inlet socket; mostly that will be used at home as we mostly use forest service and other sites that are w/o hookups.
Quote from: Redoverfarm on February 25, 2014, 12:31:09 PM
If you are going with a quiet genset will there be a storage area or will you just haul in the towing vehicle?
The Honda will have a storage spot in the rear of the trailer.
I may have missed this, but have you settled on a particular AC unit that the eu2000i can handle?
I don't remember if I mentioned the exact unit. ??? I found a GE 5050 BTU window unit with a remote control. The remote was wanted so we would not have to crawl over the bed to turn it on/off or adjust the fan or cooling rate. Found it on Walmart.com for $139.99 which was more than I wanted to spend, but it had the specs. Most remote controlled window A/C are bigger, more BTU's and larger size and weight. As it is 5050 BTU is probably more than needed. Model # AEW05LQ. It is a discontinued model.
From what I understand, 5050 BTU would be a good choice for the eu2000i. If I remember max was 7000 or 8000 BTU, that it could get started. Any bigger and the initial surge overwhelmed the generator. There was a lot of discussion about this on various RV forums:
https://www.google.com/#q=eu2000i+air+conditioner
Yep, I've seen a number of folks who use a 2000 watt inverter generator with a 5 to 6 K BTU A/C. Many seem to be able to run the generator in eco mode and have no issues with the generator being able to throttle up quick enough. Once the A/C is running it only draws about 500 watts by my Kill-a-watt meter.
Don,
I may have missed it ... what are you putting under your trailer/camper for waterproofing?
The foam insulation that is fitted into the frame sections is cut tightly and glued/sealed/caulked in place. Eventually I may apply an undercoat, I found some that sticks to the foil face nicely w/o affecting the foam. But when I look under cargo trailers that are several years old I have been surprised to see the excellent condition of the plywood floors and those were all w/o any treatment other than borate on some.
tks. looking forward to seeing the progress.
Wheel boxes covered in plywood.
Side walls, rear, lower covered in 3/16" plywood underlayment.
Water heater boxed in plywood.
Fresh water tank secured to floor. Filler pipe ready to hookup.
Bed platform supports installed at left and right side walls. Need to complete the center support before installing plywood for mattress.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0775sml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0775sml.jpg.html)
Rear section, below.
Water heater boxed in on left side.
Generator storage and to the right of it battery storage.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0776sml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0776sml.jpg.html)
The Generator and batteries sit on slide outs for easier access when bed platform is completed; 250 lb capacity for the battery tray, 100 lb for the Honda.
The battery box section will be sealed with polyester resin, no cloth. Polyester resin is resistant to battery concentration sulfuric acid. There will be a vent to the exterior and it will be sealed from the balance of the trailer.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0777sml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0777sml.jpg.html)
The batteries waiting for me to catch up. Cheap GC2's from Sams Club.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0773sml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0773sml.jpg.html)
Did more today...
Bed platform framing done... Yes, you would expect the 2x4 to run the other way more like a joist, but for this purpose this works and provides more clearance underneath
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0779sml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0779sml.jpg.html)
1/2" plywood trial fitted...
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0781sml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0781sml.jpg.html)
Lots of under bed storage space...
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0783sml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0783sml.jpg.html)
Where the shower will be, The plywood indicates where the bulkhead between bed & shower will be...
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0784sml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0784sml.jpg.html)
View from outside the door. 1x2 indicates probable counter edge position, though I may use a curve.
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0785sml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DJM_0785sml.jpg.html)
Looks like you are begining to feel the claustrophobia effect. What was once a big open space now is deminishing as you reach the door. But hey it's not a full time residence. Sort of like a house shell. Gigantic until you start building inside. ;)
Looking good. Waiting..... to see the finished product. :)
looking good. will you be putting in a sink since you will have water hooked up? do you have any plans for the back doors - seems like you could open those up and have a pull down screen or something which would give you a wide open feel and improved ventilation during warmer weather.
Quote...claustrophobia ...
It's all relative... gotta remember this is replacing sleeping in the pickup box under the topper. ;D
Quote from: cbc58 on March 12, 2014, 08:18:06 AM
looking good. will you be putting in a sink since you will have water hooked up? do you have any plans for the back doors - seems like you could open those up and have a pull down screen or something which would give you a wide open feel and improved ventilation during warmer weather.
Yes to the sink.
Screens across the back end with open doors has been thought of. We'll work out the details later.
Hi Don,
looks like a great job so far.. i have admired your work and your helpful responses in the past, so it is no surprise that you are doing a great job with this project.. 2 questions..
a) your rationale for going this route vs buying an actual RV ( sorry if i missed this in an earlier post! ) of course, I can imagine a few, including but not limited to ensuring quality construction... just felt like doing it.. ran out of projects :)
b) what will your first destination be ?? :) jt
a) All of the above ;D , plus the desire to keep the width down to 6 feet. Almost all travel trailers are 7 to 8 feet wide; we did not want that width. We wanted smallish. Many compact narrower TT also are short on headroom. Many are also cheaply built and show it after a few years. My original idea was to build from scratch, buy an axle, steel tube, a new spool of MIG wire..... If I had a taller garage / garage door that might have won out. ???
b) Not sure where first will be. Colorado will be visited this summer for certain; Probably July. We have an annual get together with Karen's' brother & SO; hiking, rock climbing, campfire if conditions permit. If I'm done, or at least done enough to travel by the end of May when school halts for summer break, perhaps the SE corner of AZ (Bisbee and north) or if not there then the SE area of UT (Hwy 95 & 276 between Blanding & Hite).
An update after spring break. This was completed before taking a week break and heading to the cabin. I just took the pictures today.
The shower pan ready to be glued in place. PEX plumbing supply for the future sink in the nose area, conduit for some 120 VAC electric and one for the sink drain. Not much room for all that under / behind the pan...
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DSC_0959sml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DSC_0959sml.jpg.html)
The wall between shower pan and bed will be installed as soon as I pressure test the plumbing supply lines (tomorrow?)
~~~~~
Closer up view showing fresh water tank and fill line, vent line, drain and pump line...
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DSC_0960sml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DSC_0960sml.jpg.html)
The receptacle is 120 VAC from either shore power, generator or the inverter. The PEX that goes vertical is for the shower and the vertical gray conduit is actually a waste tank vent line that will penetrate the roof.
~~~~~
Next are the two golf cart batteries on their slider and showing the 2/0 welding cable cables. Black is positive and white is negative; similar to white being neutral in an AC system. I don't worry about the colors on the battery interconnect cable. DC master disconnect on the leading edge of the tray...
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DSC_0962sml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DSC_0962sml.jpg.html)
~~~~~
The other electrical major components...
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DSC_0964sml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DSC_0964sml.jpg.html)
In the center is the Iota DLS-55 is a charger / converter I had had for many years. It has seen a variety of uses over time. FYI, it is a multi stage charger; bulk, absorb, float and a timed automatic equalize. 55 amps maximum output. Copper buss for connecting all the chassis grounds to. The black box to the left is an AC automatic transfer switch. There is a shore power inlet on the left rear outside corner. That input line connects to the box with the red face plate (on the left). The inlet also connects to one of the inputs in the ATS. The orange wire connects the second ATS input to the inverter 120 VAC outlet. The inverter is another item I've had for several years. It is a Xantrex PROwatt SW, pure sine wave 2000 watt. The data cable on the PROWATT is for the remote control which will be located up front in the counter / sink area.
~~~~~
Another view showing the cabling and the nailer plates to keep me from driving screws through the cables. FYI, the generator can not be operated in its storage space. I may at some future date build the carrier / storage rack I have planned. That would mount on the exterior of the left rear door once the reinforcement rack and bars is made. he idea is to be able to lock it up and be able to operate by opening the dust cover. So far just an idea...
(https://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q305/djmbucket/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DSC_0965csml.jpg) (https://s139.photobucket.com/user/djmbucket/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Conversion/DSC_0965csml.jpg.html)
The positive and negative cables connect to some copper buss bars. A bolt through the plywood wall supplies a connection point in the battery chamber. Hidden behind the rear frame crossmember is a 250 amp fuse. The white and red 8 gauge wires are the master DC feed to the front of the trailer. That has a fuse off the buss bar as well. A second fuse from the buss bar connects forward along the bed framework to the 12 VDC RV water pump.
Looks like a lot of planning and thought have gone into your camper Don. Have you considered using a Studor valve for the vent situation to eliminate your roof penetration?
It would be nice to avoid a hole in the roof, but a Studor won't work when in an RV situation. The Studor is an air admittance valve; lets air into the system and blocks air from exiting the pipes. The RV sink and shower drain into a waste water holding tank under the floor. Water runs into holding tank and air has to escape to make room for the water. So the Studor won't work for that.
Quote from: MountainDon on April 21, 2014, 08:42:47 AM
It would be nice to avoid a hole in the roof, but a Studor won't work when in an RV situation. The Studor is an air admittance valve; lets air into the system and blocks air from exiting the pipes. The RV sink and shower drain into a waste water holding tank under the floor. Water runs into holding tank and air has to escape to make room for the water. So the Studor won't work for that.
Don I think our galley tank on the fifthwheel vents via that type of valve. Gray and black vent out through the roof and has the weather protection of plastic vent caps up there. I blamed the galley sink not draining on the Studor type valve after we got this unit used. Turned out it has two gates valves in the dump line. One now because of a winter road hazard near Wells Nv. ;) ..... I mean GRRRRR!!! Once I got both drains valves open it drained.... I guess I should take a look and see if it does vent that way. I do know there is that type of vent in the galley sink drain line just about where it makes its turn for the galley tank.
Very nice trailer!
We have the full on family bunkhouse model right now, but once it's just the wife and I something like this will definitely be in our future. [cool]
Hello, could you move the 110 V power outlet away from the shower ? Was looking at the photos and,it just looks way to close even with GFI.
Thanks for the thought. That outlet is really no closer to the shower than the GFCI protected outlets by the bathroom sinks in many residences. :-\ At least that is how I see it.
It's been a while :( but I have made progress... :)
The plumbing pressure tested w/o leaks and the propane leak tested okay after I got rid of a tee fitting that had a casting flaw and had a tiny but consistent leak. The water heater heats water.
I have completed all the insulation except for the rear doors. I have also installed all the interior wall paneling (5 mm plywood) and installed the shower pan (glued down on a raised bed of rigid sheet foam. Two shower walls up but the shower liner is not yet installed. I've applied 2 coats of Minwax polycrylic clear coat on the interior wood wall and ceiling panels; one more to go. hen sometime soon I have to glue up the hull liner on parts of the ceiling and install trim.
The base for the truckfridge is installed and the rear and side panels along with the top have an additional 2 inches of polyisocyanurate insulation installed. The cut out for the compressor excepted. The floor platform the fridge sits on has 2 inches of polyiso. The door remains as it came. The counter framing in the left side of the nose is done. A countertop will be cut and installed soon. Shelf for the m-wave is yet to be done. Maybe tomorrow.
I cut a hole in the left rear door and the A/C is hanging there and works nice to cool the interior on the couple of recent days that we hit high 80's and a 92. It's not complete as I have a door reinforcement to complete. It's been consistently too windy to MIG weld outdoors and I have enough other stuff to do so don't feel like changing to flux core wire. I don't liker slag anyways.
No pictures on all that right now; later this evening.
I'm quicker than I thought I'd be! ;D
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/DSC_1029sml_zps18475d3a.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/DSC_1029sml_zps18475d3a.jpg.html)
I finally connected and leak tested the propane system. That is a high pressure outlet for camp stove use outside.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/DSC_1018sml_zpsa52c2b64.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/DSC_1018sml_zpsa52c2b64.jpg.html)
The Truckfridge with its extra 2" wrap of polyiso insulation. The extra 2" for the bottom is not attached to the fridge but is under the plywood covered base just visible at lower right.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/DSC_1020sml_zpscfadf865.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/DSC_1020sml_zpscfadf865.jpg.html)
Truckfridge inserted into its place. The bed platform is painted. Still have to make doors for the underneath storage area; water tank, pump etc visible. Some of my parts mess visible too. The A/C with remote control temporarily installed in the door cut out
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/DSC_1022sml_zps0a067c14.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/DSC_1022sml_zps0a067c14.jpg.html)
The view from outside the door. Shower pan and walls in place. Fridge in place. The sink in a mockup installation with faucet.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/DSC_1023sml_zps3b52b3e2.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/DSC_1023sml_zps3b52b3e2.jpg.html)
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/DSC_1027sml_zpsb0e8a49b.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/DSC_1027sml_zpsb0e8a49b.jpg.html)
Closer and different angle view of the shower.
View from the rear. Walls for the shower, pipes visible are hot & cold supply to shower and the waste water tank vent pipe. Vent is still to be hooked up through the roof. Plywood walls finished in Minwax Polycrylic Clear Satin. (water based... love it as there is almost no odor at all. Lasts well too as I have used it on other projects for something like 10 years or more.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/DSC_1028sml_zpsaee599d5.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/DSC_1028sml_zpsaee599d5.jpg.html)
Interior nose view. Shelves to be added under counter. Our plan is to use storage boxes under there to hold "stuff".
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/DSC_1026sml_zpsff4f7628.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/DSC_1026sml_zpsff4f7628.jpg.html)
Outside view of the A/C. I'll explain more later as I finish the mounting, but in brief the two vertical things are steel reinforcements to help spread the weight of the A/C. They are spaced wide enough to permit a platform at the bottom for the Honda EU2000i to be added.
Interesting note: I had a devil of a time with the tee fitting for the high pressure branch off. It turned out to be a casting fault. But at first I thought the connection simply was not tight enough; I had used a good amount of paste type pipe dope, one that in the past has resulted in zero leaks upon testing. So I was tightening the pipe nipple to tee and used a wrench that was too big. I twisted it off. I had forgotten myself and had left the propane cylinder valve open... I was actually watching the bubbles at the leak as I tightened. When the nipple twisted off there was a very short, Pffft. Then silence. The excess flow valve worked properly as there was just a low amount of propane released instead of the rapid flow that would happen with older equipment. Good to see technology work.
Interesting note: I had a devil of a time with the tee fitting for the high pressure branch off. It turned out to be a casting fault. But at first I thought the connection simply was not tight enough; I had used a good amount of paste type pipe dope, one that in the past has resulted in zero leaks upon testing. So I was tightening the pipe nipple to tee and used a wrench that was too big. I twisted it off. I had forgotten myself and had left the propane cylinder valve open... I was actually watching the bubbles at the leak as I tightened. When the nipple twisted off there was a very short, Pffft. Then silence. The excess flow valve worked properly as there was just a low amount of propane released instead of the rapid flow that would happen with older equipment. Good to see technology work.
Looking very good Don!
Looks like your test run is getting a little closer. Then road TRIP!!! :D
This is a great looking project MD. When you first started this thread, I was thinking this might be a good alternative to building a small cabin, seeing as how it can be built at home with power etc and then parked in the woods... but the amount of technology you stuffed into this thing, it must have cost you a small fortune. It is what I would call a "sleeper" camper, in that you would probably not know from the outside just how much is going on in the inside, and yet you seem to have all of the comforts of home in there. Really nice work.
We have an update.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1033sml_zpsd397f8be.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1033sml_zpsd397f8be.jpg.html)
This is a view looking under the counter space to be. The switch is for the RV water pump. Plumbing is Pex. The shut off above the switch is the valve for recirculating hot water back to the fresh water tank. The idea is conservation of water; It's not a long run from the water heater to the faucet, about 12 feet more or less, but rather than waste the cold slug that comes before the hot, we can send it back to the fresh water tank.
Next...
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1035sml_zps07930c65.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1035sml_zps07930c65.jpg.html)
Counter top sans sink. The door is to the right. The box that shows 14.0 is a junction box. 14.0 is the battery voltage; the switch above shuts off the meter. The doohickey at extreme upper left is the on-off remote for the SW inverter. The communications cable needs to be secured still.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1038sml_zpse418da13.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1038sml_zpse418da13.jpg.html)
There's a better view of the inverter remote on-off. 120 VAC outlets installed on wall. Sink installed and plumbed. It works although the shut off mentioned above has a leaking gland and will not stop leaking; part was in one of my junk boxes. next place for it may be the trash can. The unfinished ledge shelf is temporarily resting on scraps.
Quiz...
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1042sml_zps4ec6f477.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1042sml_zps4ec6f477.jpg.html)
What is this? Hopefully the white metal thingy will be installed tomorrow and an explanatory photo posted. Or the day after....
What is this? Hopefully the white metal thingy will be installed tomorrow and an explanatory photo posted. Or the day after....
Sort of looks like a heavy duty shelf bracket.....
There is a section of ceiling missing, perhaps this attaches to the ceiling allowing something to hang from it, or something to be pulled down (like storage of some kind when traveling. If I am way off, give us a little hint. ")
It IS the A/C rack.
Perhaps heavier than I needed but it was steel I had on hand, and the smallest I had on hand. Could have pulled enough 2 x 2 x 1/4 from the odds 'n' ends pile, but that would have been gross overkill. In future I will make a generator rack for the bottom, above the trailer plate, but have not taken time to do so now. That will be if I decide we need a place to have it able to run and be fastened to the trailer.
Photo of the A/C rack installed.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1044sml_zps3a313dc3.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1044sml_zps3a313dc3.jpg.html)
The funky piece of aluminum is an angle secured to both rack and the A/C. There are also a couple of screws from the side angles to the A/C "box". Be careful when ya' drill holes; don't want to hear any pffftt's. :lol:
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1047sml_zpse513cd66.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1047sml_zpse513cd66.jpg.html)
Microwave installed on its shelf with a cam lock strap to help hold it in place.
I put the fridge in it's place today; need to make a bracket to secure it. Maybe tomorrow.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1050sml_zpsb56b4c72.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1050sml_zpsb56b4c72.jpg.html)
The eagle eyed observer will note a change in the pex line to the hot water bypass valve. It's an old recycled valve and has a very slight drip I can not remedy. The trial repair called for cutting the pex and I used a sharkbite from the plumbing odds 'n' ends box. Tonight I got a brand new valve and that ease of removing the sharkbite will come in handy tomorrow.
Quote from: Adam Roby on May 29, 2014, 09:32:52 PM
There is a section of ceiling missing, perhaps this attaches to the ceiling allowing something to hang from it, or something to be pulled down (like storage of some kind when traveling. If I am way off, give us a little hint. ")
The ceiling has different thicknesses of insulation. In the rear over the bed there is a total of 4 inches of polyiso. In the front over the area with standing room it is reduced to 2 inches. Over the counter, window area and the shower pan it is mostly 3 inches. The ceiling areas that do not have the lauan plywood will be receiving "hull liner". It looks like indoor - outdoor carpeting but w/o the rubber backing; just the woven material. It is used in the marine industry on the inside of fiberglass hulls to reduce the condensation.
It gets glued on with contact cement. I have some 3M Fastbond 30-NF (non flammable, low VOC, water based). It is the best non flammable contact adhesive that is available, also the most expensive. Goes on with a small roller. That will be applied to the ceiling. The hull liner will get a spray coat of 3M #77. They are compatible. Got it at Zoro Tools. (http://www.zoro.com/g/00052200/k-G1144376?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kpid=G1144376&gclid=CjgKEAjwtZucBRD77aiiq_v4xnASJABkAg8J2nQ3U7hu1ZTcSKD4PVCloL54PEkxVokjz_9RuGfnzPD_BwE)
So do I get the prize for shelf bracket...... ???
Quote from: rick91351 on May 29, 2014, 09:49:19 PM
So do I get the prize for shelf bracket...... ???
You do!!!
Now where did I put it? ???
Just save it Don one of these days most likely our trails will cross. First I got to get this house behind me.....
Alright, the shower is completed except for the shower curtain.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1052sml_zps75582218.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1052sml_zps75582218.jpg.html)
CPVC pipe for a curtain rod and the PVC conduit does double duty as a towel drying holder and to carry a wire front to back that I belatedly wanted to add. Easier than fishing through the voids in the shower base.
That's a stick of foam fake wood trim I had laying around instead of using a proper FRP corner. It works; it is siliconed in place.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1054sml_zpsafc221dc.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1054sml_zpsafc221dc.jpg.html)
Small shelf added across wall behind sink.
The weather station down the road recorded a high of 92 F today. My local sensor showed a high of 97 F on the north side of the house. The trailer A/C was on most of the afternoon. I had the temperature set for 68 F inside and it had no problem maintaining that. It cycled on and off but I was busy working and have no idea of the duty cycle.
This A/C has an "eco" setting where the entire unit shuts off when the preset is reached. Normal cycle has the fan running all the time. I'm not real impressed as the temperature wanders hi to low more widely between operating cycles. It did seem to stay off for extended periods though. If you were plugged into the grid with an electric meter spinning maybe it would save money. But I'd only use it if I was trying to maintain some level of cool while away from it.
Tomorrow may reach 95 F.
Today's main project was installing the Travertine marble floor tiles. With all the angles in the nose that was a real job in cutting so as to not end up with wasted materials due to errors in measuring and what not. We do like the appearance a lot.
It was hot working as we have hit 96 so far. No A/C as I was working mostly in the nose, going in and out and at times I was outside while fitting the tiles to the nose floor. I closed up the trailer and am running the A/C to get an idea of the cool down period.
There are details such as base trim to complete. Here's a shot of the tile...
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1055sml_zpscb0146fe.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1055sml_zpscb0146fe.jpg.html)
We got that from Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Best-Step-Travertine-2-ft-x-2-ft-Interlocking-Foam-Mat-4-Pack-BS734-4HDT/205033646#specifications)yesterday. It comes in 2 foot squares, 4 pieces to a package. I was able to do the floor with 2 packages.
Yes, it is not real marble; my head is not made of stone and neither is the floor. ;) It is foam matting with those laser cut squiggly interlocking edges.
A while back I mentioned I had a latch to help take some of the weight off the door hinges of the rear door the A/C is mounted in. Here are a couple shots.
I added an handle extension to this one. When the hook is slipped over the steel door frame top and the handle pulled down the latch goes over center and stays there. The rod is adjustable for throw. This one is stainless steel. I have it set to almost imperceptibly lift the door, to take weight. It might make a difference when jiggling down the road.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1063sml_zpsf4b71a5a.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1063sml_zpsf4b71a5a.jpg.html)
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1066sml_zps2997fb8b.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1066sml_zps2997fb8b.jpg.html)
These are from a company called Southco. They make lots of different latches in many sizes. I've used a variety of them over the past 12 - 15 years. They have a website. I have not checked recently but for many years they have had a sample program. IF you have a company name and if you have a shipping payment account with someone like UPS, FedEx, etc, you can order samples. The samples are free, but you must have a shipping account they can charge to. They used to ship for free but that ceased about 2008.
Interesting project, I've been enjoying watching your progress.
I've got a couple of questions though.
1)Do you have the ability to attach the trailer water supply to city pressurized water? And if so how do you isolate the water tank and pump from the city water under pressure.
2)And the air vent line to the water tank, where does the air vent to - outside? to some sort of valve? or just to the air space in the camper.
thanks.
1. No, I skipped that as we don't use campgrounds with hookups as a rule. If we do we can refill the on board tank and continue to use the pump.
2. The water tank vent is built into the water filler. It is screened and is a part of the fitting on the exterior. It is a recessed design so nothing protrudes more than 3/16". It will spit back at you when the tank is full.
Recent progress....
Queen size mattress in place... The ceiling has been finished in hull liner material with wood accent strips across. It is glued in place with 3M Fastbond 30 NF rollered onto the ceiling and 3M 77 sprayed on the fabric backside. The 30 NF is very nice, almost no odor, not flammable and friendlier to brain cells than the older contact cement. I did not use the 30 NF on the cloth as it was difficult to spread w/o soaking the cloth.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1074sml_zps022f630d.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1074sml_zps022f630d.jpg.html)
28" LED TV on a swing arm wall mount...
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1080sml_zpse10144c4.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1080sml_zpse10144c4.jpg.html)
We have a cable/antenna feed thru the wall and an HDMI connection for the laptop.
Sown with the swing arm out...
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1081sml_zpsa50ab790.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1081sml_zpsa50ab790.jpg.html)
TV can be swiveled to face the rear doors as well.
Outdoor work table for camp stove, etc. It uses a bracket I got from Vintage Trailer Supply. Plus I added to spring lock shelf brackets to provide extra support. The whole thing lifts off easily to be stored in the pickup box.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1084sml_zps9ac30aef.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1084sml_zps9ac30aef.jpg.html)
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1085sml_zps440dd80c.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/DSC_1085sml_zps440dd80c.jpg.html)
Next may be a dangerous move. The CT is almost finished. We are taking off for CO ....
there is nothing that says home like a huge flat screen television.
looking good Don.
Oh no... not a TV. That is camping sacrilege! I will do everything in my power to keep my child away from TV while camping. So far, every camper we have seen her first question is always, "Where's the TV?". I am off to a bad start.
Yep. TV. It got used a little on the CO trip. Once for a DVD in the evening and once for viewing photos taken with the Nikon SLR. Oh and also for viewing digital Topo maps with GPS tracks from hiking. Can be a useful tool. ;D
~~~~~~
"Home again, home again, jiggity jig" :)
... or...
...a 1329 Mile Shakeout Trip...
The last two weeks were spent in CO, working our way north from the Salida area to the final 5 days in Rocky Mountain NP. We had a great time; FS or NPS camp sites all the way. Hiked a number of trails mostly all 10,000 feet and higher. The shower was wonderful to have. The trailer tracked excellently in the terrific head, front quartering and side winds that we encountered.
There are a couple/three glitches that I need to sort out, but nothing that seems too serious. I'll know better when I troubleshoot / evaluate the issues.
#1 was the brakes lost communication between the brake controller and the trailer. I just used lower gears more, carefully watched down grade speeds and all was fine. The trailer weighs less than the break point where brakes are required.
#2 was the auto transfer switch (generator/shore power or onboard inverter) crapped out. We used extension cords and did some back and forth switching and made out okay.
#3 was a very small propane leak developed at one of the fittings in the high pressure section. Solution was temporary; turn off the main cylinder valve between uses. I decided that was better than trying to tighten the 1/4" brass pipe more and risk twisting it off... I've done that before. :(
What does a USFS campsite cost now in Colorado? Last time I was up there, a lot had of them had been privatized, and cost was $25 a night, which seemed pretty steep.
Geesh... we really get it in the rear in Canada then... a tent lot costs around $55 for one night. Prices are insanely high... I would be afraid to ask how much a trailer lot would cost.
We paid* a low of $17 at a National Forest site (water available, vault toilet, no electric or sewer) and a high of $20 at other NF campsites, same amenities. The site at Glacier Basin campground in RMNP was $20 a night and had flush toilets instead of the vault type.
* But I have a Federal Senior Pass. That means most campsites have a 50% discount. Except one was only $3 off. It depends on the concessionaire / agency contract. Plus the entrance fee to RMNP was free. The Sr Pass is available at the entrance to any NP and all FS district offices upon proof of US residency and payment of $10. Lifetime (after age 62). A super deal, also good at BLM, Fish & Wildlife, B of Reclamation, TVA and some B of Engineers. Anyone in the vehicle I am in gets in free at a fee-per-vehicle area (non commercial, no buss loads), or myself plus 3 others at a fee-per-person area.
While there we checked costs at a Colorado State Park; $22 camping plus the $7 daily park entrance fee (that included electric) . But we opted for the nearby FS site at $9 (50% off $18) and ran the Honda 2000i for a little over an hour or so to recharge the batteries and run the electric tea kettle, toaster and blender. Yep; roughing it! ;)
I have conflicting opinions on the concessionaire / reservation system. IMO, far too many campsites are available in the reservation system. Some campgrounds have every site available for reservation by phone or online, others have maybe 3 to 4% available on a first come, first serve free for all. That makes it difficult to just wander about as the spirit moves you. OTOH, reservations made it possible for us to arrive late in the day at RMNP and not have to worry about finding a site. There are even photos of the individual sites available online. I suppose my happy ideal would be to have reservations at popular destinations like N. Parks, but have more non-reserved sites at FS campgrounds.
We tend to wander in our camping trips, and finding campsites in the reserved campsites in Colorado has been an unexpected problem. That has pushed us to do more dispersed forest camping, nice where allowed -- which is fewer and fewer places in central Colorado.
In Utah, not to long ago, we saw an altercation between the concessionaire host and a camper/ family who were 'squatting' on a reserved spot. The ranger-police were called, and it was ugly, as tempers seemed to be running high on the issue of the reserved spots. It was very unexpected. Another time recently, we had a reserved spot at a backcountry NPS campsite, arrived, and found our spot taken with no other spots available. Our daughter was quite ill with a fever and vomiting. We had to force the issue with the two young men who had taken the spot. They did not want to move, but finally did. I really did not appreciate having to take that on.
A benefit of the concessionaire-run campsites seems to be that are kept very clean.
Overall, the nicest Federal campsites I find tend to be BLM, and also the least expensive.
An odd camping experience I had a few weeks ago was at Navajo National Monument. The campground, very nice, had no charge. I'm not sure if that was some condition the Navajo had placed on the Monument. It was interesting that that whole park seems to get very little funding - clean but facilities are really aging badly.
We like dispersed camping over most campgrounds. However dispersed camping is getting more difficult with all the changes caused by the FS Travel Management Plans and the accompanying MVUM (http://www.fs.fed.us/recreation/programs/ohv/ohv_maps.shtml) (Motor vehicle Use Maps). The MVUM for the Jemez had been delayed by recent wildfire and flooding and litigation, but many of the spots we have used in the past are not permitted on the draft copies I have seen.
Don - Glad things went well all and all on the shake down cruse. [cool] There indeed is getting to be some sticker shock at the price of campgrounds some places. So looking forward to next year after trim out on the house is finished and spending a little time way.
A few assorted shots. I'm not the greatest photographer.
One of the one nighter FS campsites...
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Colorado2014/DSC_1087_zps76868a7a.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Colorado2014/DSC_1087_zps76868a7a.jpg.html)
Glacier Basin campground, RMNP. Loop C and D have been devastated by pine bark beetles. When we reserved there were no vacancies in loops A & B (with trees). My BIL's trailer in the background.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Colorado2014/DSC_1397_zps089a83b2.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Colorado2014/DSC_1397_zps089a83b2.jpg.html)
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Colorado2014/DSC_1212_zps3a09d98d.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Colorado2014/DSC_1212_zps3a09d98d.jpg.html)
from around 12,000 feet...
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Colorado2014/DSC_1257_zps5b21ad77.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Colorado2014/DSC_1257_zps5b21ad77.jpg.html)
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Colorado2014/DSC_1279_zps3ba51c1b.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Colorado2014/DSC_1279_zps3ba51c1b.jpg.html)
It was wildly windy up there but the Marmot was sunbathing. :)
We hiked over some snow...
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Colorado2014/DSC_1380_zpscc3848d9.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Colorado2014/DSC_1380_zpscc3848d9.jpg.html)
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Colorado2014/DSC_1386_zps1c0fec56.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Colorado2014/DSC_1386_zps1c0fec56.jpg.html)
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Colorado2014/DSC_1414_zpsc0626499.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Colorado2014/DSC_1414_zpsc0626499.jpg.html)
seen along the trails...
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Colorado2014/DSC_1406_zps94b3301a.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Colorado2014/DSC_1406_zps94b3301a.jpg.html)
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Colorado2014/DSC_1359_zps72dd9fa5.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Colorado2014/DSC_1359_zps72dd9fa5.jpg.html)
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Colorado2014/DSC_1354_zpsbca7179f.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Colorado2014/DSC_1354_zpsbca7179f.jpg.html)
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Colorado2014/DSC_1339_zps1d408b15.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Colorado2014/DSC_1339_zps1d408b15.jpg.html)
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Colorado2014/DSC_1315_zps7d7eab20.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Colorado2014/DSC_1315_zps7d7eab20.jpg.html)
If I didn't already say so, I must say I am very happy with the Truckfridge. The small freezer was big enough to hold 4 burritos, two meals worth of green beans, a small bag of kale, 2 salmon fillets, a half pound of ground buffalo and a half pound of ground turkey. The fridge held temperature pretty well, with a little air circulation help from a small fan. The fan does really help even out the temperature throughout the box, tempers the rise/fall swings. I did not have the watt meter hooked up to record power use but going by the resting state battery voltage it was miserly in its power use. And it is quiet enough to be hardly noticeable. Not loud enough to be any bother at all. That is with the stock fan too which is more noisy than the one I had picked out as a possible replacement in case the stock fan bothered us.
Some solar will be in the works sometime soon I hope, but there are other priorities at present.
Nice job and great work as always.
This is one of the best purchases I have ever made:
http://store.arbusa.com/Fridges-C11.aspx
They are expensive as sin, and worth every penny. You can run one off one 140W panel, and they are real fridge/freezers. They pull less than an amp, are easier to clean than the Engel, and have a drain. I like the digital readout.
On the campgrounds: the reservation system has more cons than pros in my opinion. I remember touring CA in the early 90's and always found a site. My cousins tell me you need to reserve a year in advance now at many sites. One of them works for the FS in the central valley and he said the motivation was money. They reserve them online, and more than half the time people don't show. When stragglers show up after the cutoff, they sell them again.
Very nice photos Don. It looks like a great trip in spectacular country.
Quote from: John Raabe on July 03, 2014, 08:23:22 AM
Very nice photos Don. It looks like a great trip in spectacular country.
I agree with John nice photos - BTW great photo of what I think is a Duskey Grouse! The waterfall and creek are pretty much post card - travel brochure stuff. The elk bulls grazing really makes me smile. Hard to take a bad photo of an elk. Those old bachelor bulls like that this time of the year just enjoying each other and the grazing. Then wait till fall and they shed the velvet, nights starting getting colder and look out.
Dusky Grouse. Thanks Rick, I wasn't sure and had not got around to looking for a name. That is it what what I see after using Google. A male. It was sitting on a rock about 12 feet off the hiking trail. The elk were very close too. The moose was about 100 feet away and down in the creek. None of them cared anyone was around. All in RMNP.
Yes, you are just a terrible photographer ;)
Very nice, especially the pictures of the Elk in their velvet and the Grouse. Lots of snow still! I recognized those places in RMNP. It seems there are always moose about there.
A good percentage of forest in Colorado and north is devastated by Pine Bark Beetle. It is quite astounding to see] -- it goes about from the New Mexico / Colorado border, all the way up into the Canadian Rockies and Alaska. A drive to Alaska, from New Mexico really puts the scale of the problem into perspective.
Quote from: hpinson on July 03, 2014, 10:29:47 AM
A good percentage of forest in Colorado and north is devastated by Pine Bark Beetle. It is quite astounding to see
Astounding is correct. Very sad to see entire slopes that are 100% killed and so many others that seem to be heading that way with what appears to be 80% or so at present. The recent and current drought conditions stress the trees and make them unable to resist the beetles. The beetles are after all a native to the area insect.
On a similar note, have you seen the north end of Lake Powell near Hite, UT lately?
You mean here?
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/s720x720/529474_10200788844901911_2086566192_n.jpg)
That was right across from Hite in April 2013. The river was freeflowing where the lake used to be. No marina! You can see the bathtub ring high-water mark about 100 feet up on the cliff face. I don't know conditions this year though. Probably not a lot better - though maybe so, given the snowpack I see in your photos.
Outstanding pictures, what an amazing camp site... ok ok, I forgive the TV. :)
Quote from: hpinson on July 03, 2014, 05:17:35 PM
....given the snowpack I see in your photos.
Parts of CO had lots of snow this past winter. Passes we have gone over in prior years at the end of June were still closed.
Your Duskey Grouse - Ellen's one bird book says the northern verity do not get the gray band on their tail.
Love the moose pic, the NPS just 2 years ago re-introduced them to grand mesa above me, the neighbors have seem them in our neighborhood, but we haven't yet,
the county installed a bunch of "I'm a moose don't shoot me" signs on the main roads up for the hunters to think twice before they pop that odd looking elk
An update. One of the things the trailer did not have when we first built it was a space heater. I now have a test bed. JUst some parts cobbled together to test the principle. The principle being to use the hot water from the propane fueled RV water heater. It is a Suburban brand 6 gallon tank. It is the model with a pilot light, not the direct ignition style. Today I did some rough plumbing. I tapped into the hot line near the water heater outlet. I also tapped into the cold line very close to the water heater cold inlet.
This is a very basic hookup for the first performance test.... The general layout...
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Heater/DSC_1509crop_zpsf034ad8a.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Heater/DSC_1509crop_zpsf034ad8a.jpg.html)
I'm running the tests off my 12 VDC power supply with a watt meter. The two white PEX pipes in the upper right come from connections near the water heater hot and cold connections. Blue tape = cold(er) pipe.
A closer up view of the heater and pump...
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Heater/DSC_1510crop_zpsae1d4ad9.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Heater/DSC_1510crop_zpsae1d4ad9.jpg.html)
The hot pipe connects to the inlet side of the pump. The pump is rated at a flow rate of approximately 3 gal/minute. The finned radiator is a transmission cooler, approximately 6 x 12 inches. It has never bee used for oil or anything other than water. (It is the unit I tried in the heater experiment in the cabin a few years ago) The fans are secured with wire ties; quick and easy for testing. They are oriented to blow air through the fins. At present the pump and fans are wired up to run continuously. At present I do not have a temperature controller or thermostat. That will come if this first stage is deemed a success.
Close up shot of the watt meter reading. This was taken moments after turning the power on. Taking a photo of the display is a tad difficult and needed some manipulation...
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Heater/DSC_1513adj-crop_zpsd77d3152.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Heater/DSC_1513adj-crop_zpsd77d3152.jpg.html)
With pump and fans running the amp draw is at 0.67 with the watts at 8.7 (at 13.3 volts).
The plan is to run all night and see how many watt-hours are used and what the temperature inside the trailer is in the morning. The water heater thermostat is set at medium. The test started late this afternoon (4:30 PM MST) with the exterior temperature at 58 F and dropping. The trailer interior was at 70 F. The overnight low is forecast to be 37 F.
The fans....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SBYQE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The pump....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Top-DC-12V-12L-M-3M-15W-Panel-Circulation-Solar-Powered-Hot-Water-Pump-/391022362224?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b0abfbe70
The hoses are faucet connection hoses with 1/2" pipe thread fittings.
The fans are rated at 19.1 dB per fan. The pump is rated at <45 dB.
Looks like the transmission cooler I had to add to my old 2nd Gen 4Runner so it could go up a mountain without overheat the tranny. A very bad design by Toyota. I think it came from Autozone on Southern.
So I have to ask ... isn't that space heater kind of high maintenance - you have to drain it after each use in the winter or it will freeze? I guess that applies to the water storage too though.
I think I bought this cooler at the same store a few years back.
Yes, the whole water system needs to be drained for winter. But, most of the time we don't use it a lot during the freezing season. If the temperature drops below freezing for short periods per day it has proven to not be a worry. It's the prolonged freezes that are the problem. Draining isn't as bad as it might be as I did build in some low point drains.
It was 72 F inside all last night. 41 outside. Not bad especially considering the 48x27 single pane window; also known as a heat hole ;D
I turned the water heater thermostat back to the Low setting 2 nights ago. Overnight the outside dropped to 36 and the interior was 64; 28 degrees difference. The pump and fans ran continuously all night.
From that I see that...
... This is probably a viable heater. It won't be able to produce the rapid temperature rise available from a Wabasco, a Propex, a Standard RV furnace or a 120 VAC electric space heater. But it also does not take up as much space as the other fuel burning heaters, and is cheaper. It operates quietly. (I would like a Propex but balk at the $700 price tag) And it does not require a 120 VAC power source.
... A temperature control /thermostat is definitely needed as the 72 F was too warm to sleep comfortably.
... Changing the water temperature has an effect on the maximum temperature rise.
... My window probably does lose a fair amount of heat. (48 x 29 single pane)
... I need to try another fan set. These are 45 CFM; I have one that moves 90 CFM, with a little more noise, but still quieter than the pump. I ordered a second unit so I will change them out and run a test with them mounted in a pair in place of the first set. It is scheduled to arrive next Thursday as are the temperature controller and my new IR thermometer. A higher rate of air flow through the radiator should put more heat into the trailer interior.
Yesterday I weighed the propane cylinder and will see what weight of propane is consumed in 24 hours. My problem with this is my scale. My very accurate (to the gram) scale has a upper limit of 12 pounds, more than the weight of the cylinder (18 lbs tare plus propane). The bigger scale will get to to about a half pound accuracy, maybe. Anyhow I'll let this run 24 hours and weigh that just for the heck of it. Water heater set on low still.
Depending on that result tomorrow I might try running a 1 lb cylinder to be able to more accurately measure use. That is if I can find my 1 lb adapter fitting.
Then I expectantly wait for Thursday.
I received the 90 CFM fan, so now have two.
Latest data...
Water heater burner on to heat water to 136 degrees then turned off.
Water pump and fans turned on and left to run to stabilize. (two 45 CFM fans)
Measured temperature every minute until temperature began to fall.
Started timing.
Trailer interior at 46 F.
Hot line (surface of PEX pipe) from water heater measured just before radiator @ 131 F.
I left the trailer and let the pump & fans run for 15 minutes.
Hot line then measured @ 119 F, a difference of 12 degrees
Water tank volume is 6 gallons. I don't know how accurate that is or if the volume takes into account the space occupied by the burner heat exchange tube. 6 gallons @ 8.34 pounds per gallon = 50 pounds. I reduced that to 48 lbs. to help compensate for the burner tube, if necessary.
48 pounds with a 12 degree temperature drop, 48 lbs x 12 degrees = 576 BTU's.
(temperature change of 1 degree F on 1 lb.of water = 1 BTU by definition)
576 BTU per 15 minutes = 2304 BTU/hour, call it 2300 BTU/hour. For the curious that converts to 675 watts. Not a high capacity heater for certain, but the trailer is a small enough space and insulated well. The interior volume of the trailer calculates to about 440 cu ft, BTW.
BTW, the interior temperature rose to 50.3 F in the 15 minutes. Call that 4 degrees and that works out to 16 degrees an hour, more or less.
Keep in mind that temperature change slows down as the difference between the hotter and the cooler decreases, so the interior temperature rise will slow down from the initial 4 degrees per 15 minutes. Also the transfer of heat from the radiator to the air will slow down as the interior warms. Slightly compensating will be that the water temperature will return to 131 and even higher when the burner is allowed to be turned back on by the water heater controller.
Next I think will be to change the fans to the higher output 90 CFM and retest tomorrow morning or late tonight. It's too sunny to get any really meaningful data during the day.
New trial this morning; new data
I changed the fans to the twin 90 CFM models.
I repeated the warm up process as done yesterday.
Initial temperature at the pipe = 138 F
After a 15 minute run the temperature measured at the pipe fell to 113 F
Temperature difference = 25 F
48 lbs water x 25 degrees F = 1200 BTU per 15 minutes or 4800 BTU / hour
4800 BTU/hr = 1406 watts, call it 1400 watts.
The increased fan volume makes quite a difference!
I messed up with the before and after interior temperature readings so I do not have that data. :( However, that is of minor importance.
I also measured the temperature at the pipe after 7.5 minutes. At that point it was 119 F, a drop of 19 F. (The second 7.5 minutes saw a drop of only 7 degrees F. This reflects the faster rate of heat transfer that occurs with greater temperature differentials) 48 lbs x 19 degrees F = 912 BTU/hour. If we round that to 900 BTUH and then multiply by 8 we get 7200 BTUH or the equivalent of 2100 watts. That would be more or less what the output would be if the water heater burner was left turned on so as the water temperature dropped the burner would cut back in and bring the water temperature back up. (That water temperature is achievable with the heater control set on high. Depending on the weather or the need to heat quicker/slower the water heater could be used at a lower setting.)
The twin 90 CFM fans are noisier, but still not bad. We use an air filter device at home in the bedroom in part to act as a white noise when one of us goes off to bed earlier than the other. The twin 90 CFM are quieter than that bedroom unit so I don't see any potential issue there. Just in case, though, I am pondering whether or not I should wire the trailer fans up with the PWM speed controller I have. I did re-find it yesterday! And then that raises the question of slowing the pump as well, or not? ???
One more thing, the current draw increased from 0.67 amps to 0.77 amps with the twin 90 CFM fans. (Pump and fans total)
It's been a long time... I finally completed the installation and setup of the PV panels and charge controller today. The panels have been on the roof for a month or so. I ran into an issue with the charge controller and had to send it in for warranty claim. I received a replacement, a brand new unit yesterday.
The panels are attached to the roof using Instapark mounts and sikaflex 252 adhesive. The 252 is sold only through industrial dealers; very tenacious stuff. It is rated as a structural adhesive.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/1-panels_zpspxprbvdd.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/1-panels_zpspxprbvdd.jpg.html)
It's been windy blowing dirt mixed with rain so there is some dirt dried in place. The two panels are connected in parallel. 140 watts each.
The 10 AWG wires from the panels are routed to the hinge line and down the left rear corner.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/2-wires_zps0vvveztd.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/2-wires_zps0vvveztd.jpg.html)
Then to the Midnite Solar Brat charge controller.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/3-brat_zps1ztmzar6.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/3-brat_zps1ztmzar6.jpg.html)
This is a PWM controller, made in USA. There is a fuse in the + from the PV array, mainly to make disconnecting and reconnecting a tool-less job. Also a fuse on the output to the battery very close to the + terminal. The brat did a short bilk and then stepped into absorb as the batteries were fully charged. In a hour and a half from now it should shift into float. There are 4 LED indicators used to show what is happening. After I let it run for a week or so my plan is to paint most of the clear case white to match the trailer.
The Brat is mounted under the A/C that hangs out the left rear door and above the spare tire.
Here's a shot of my wires when they pass through the lower wall to under the floor. The black fitting has a rubber sleeve that gets compressed when the nut is tightened. In case it is not 100% water proof there is a weep hole at the bottom.
(https://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag395/donmiller3/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/4-wiring_zpsvbypxcy4.jpg) (https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/donmiller3/media/Cargo%20Trailer%20Cinversion/4-wiring_zpsvbypxcy4.jpg.html)
Don when my wife and I were traveling all over in our trailer I replaced our noisy bathroom vent fan with one of those CoolerMaster fans. It had a blue LED light when running :)
"Specialty" products, RV being one of them, get marked up so much. Ah, I can't even remember the name of those RV vent fans.. but they are like $300 vs $11 for a computer fan.
Brings back good memories. Cool project.
For our solar setup I just bought the Renogy 200 watt kit with a cheapo PWM charge controller off amazon. Still going strong as far as I can tell.
Don I can't tell from the pictures but I take there is no adjustment on the panels.
No, no tilt adjustments. With the roof some 11 feet up in the air I didn't feel it was worth the effort and the climbing. It may not be ideal but it is better than nothing and the panels were a good deal. The charge controller was a good deal as well as I got it for about half the normal retail selling price.