Interior trim tips. Stain grade.

[PEG688]

 Hi all thought I'd share a few tricks of the trade with ya .

   I stand all my door casing ,generally 7' stock , up and sort it by color and grain , putting like and kind together, culling out the ones that have chips , cracks , poor stain into another bunch to be used for short base peices or door heads if the bad spot is on a end .

   

 This way I can get a set of matching grain / color for each door .  BTW the photo didn't quite show the color matching or grain part , they are sorted small left bunch bad pieces , darker stain next , light stain third , wild mixed grain on right.  

I sort of see what I have the most of and put the lesser amount inside closets or in corners that a open door will cover most of the time . This is a generallity but it does work.

like the deck details if like and kind are together less wildness shows , it more of that flow thing I try to get going.

 

  Nice miter clean and crisp.  Also note the the reveal of both the door to jamb and the door jamb to casing , clean and even.

 On the bench in the right hand corner are two shims made of alu. bar stock 1/8 thick I use those to space things doors , etc .  Works well for Euro style cabs as well . 1/8" gaps are pretty common on those.


 

  I wrap my level ends and just about anything else that is metal with blue tape , it cuts down on alu. marks , and metal scratching stuff either wood as in the case of the saw or door knobs when running the screws into the mounting holes.

 

   I also tape the window sills , these are sill and apron only S/R wrap for the three other sides .   This #1 lets you see the lines on this darker stain and cuts down on chipping of the wood , fine blade , saw set on finest cut possible , and the saw shoe from scrathing the soft , Hemlock , wood .

 

 As you see I use a  couple of shims with one pin nail to hold it ,  to hold the sill , I sqr. out from the window and eye ball the angle the S/R is aways on and adjust my line for that angle , the scribes get set for the waste cut for the sill ears .  

   

 If all goes well , nice tight fit and no S/R finish ripped off by the sill being tipped into place .

 I also use staples  from my SKS senco staple gun ,,,,shot with the grain,,,, to attach the sill , that little staple / rectangluar hole just puddies better than a round nail hole , IMO .



   Pocket doors:  I generally screw the inside , less visible side , head and side on and no nails into the  side or head from the casing  I just nail the casing into the pocket door jamb deal not into the removable pieces  ,so if the door needs to be removed they can be removed to get to the track and wheels .

 

 Note the side piece is cut up into the track area just looks better/ cleaner that way.

 

    Misc tools , puddy soft color puddy in little plastic tubs , I mix different colors to match the color of stain , ussualy two mixes per job  play with the colors to get it close and try to shoot your nails into that color grain when possible .

 The hand carry is misc screws for stuff and the gray tool box carries finish gun nails and the puddy, sand paper etc .

 
 

   Enough for now we'll see how it settles with ya all Might be TMI  

     Good luck hope it helps some one , PEG

[harry51]

Great looking work, Peg!  Thanks for sharing, and I'd like to see more anytime!

[glenn kangiser]

That is a bunch of real great tips and inside information, PEG.  Thanks for showing us how the pro's do it.

[joe landscaper]

Peg, you could work on my house anytime.

[Daddymem]

Wow...look at PEG posting like a pro too!
Nice attention to detail in your work PEG.

[keyholefarmhouse]

Peg; You are way cooler then Bob Villia.  Bob don't even qualify to hold your drill chuck.

[Jimmy C.]

Great set of pics and instructions.
Thanks for sharing.

[John_M]

Great info...when does the book come out?

[bartholomew]

Great tips PEG, I don't think I've heard those pocket door suggestions before but they make a lot of sense.

[PEG688]

 Thanks all , Book?? Nah jee I'm to shy for that. You think some one would pay me to write this stuff


  Well a few additional thoughts.

  Coping inside corners , cut a 45° miter then follow the profile it leaves , back cut it a few ° as well with a coping saw .

   

   

   

  They stay tight , inside miters on 22 1/2 ° angle bays need to be both mitered the bummer is when you nail them they tend to open up a bit as the nail is set :'(

 I forgot to mention I glue all my miters and on small pieces of base I butter up the back with glue as well so the piece is glued to the dry wall

   


  Projecting Drywall  : at door or window jambs , show it who's in charge cut it , bash it out of the way so the casing lays flat on the jamb stock, cut it at a angle then hit it   It will crumb out of your way.  Casing will then lay flat.

   


 
 And the Bob Villea thing I know was a compliment but poor Bob would be lost without Norm , and now Riley or who ever his real carpenter is right now . Bob is pretty much a putz when ever they give him a tool to use.

 I take any of you all as a helper before old Bob he thinks he knows how , which makes him some what of a problem.   Good TV shows , sort of , if they could get Bob to shut up.   Ah sorry Bob if your lurking  

 Good luck , PEG  

[Okie_Bob]

Great ideas, tips and pics Peg! Thanks for sharing.
Just wish you had shared the pocket door trick sooner. I finally got the carpet installed in my place and was not present when they laid it. So, they didn't take the pocket doors down prior to laying the carpet and as you might guess, I couldn't get the doors to slide open. Finally forced them open but, because of the carpet, the doors were pushed-forced up into the track so I could not remove them. Had I known in advance about your trick of screwing the trim on the back side, I could have removed it and gotten access to the door.
I got the bright idea that I could run my jig saw along the floor cutting off about an inch from the bottom of the door. Well, it worked and I can now get the door off the track but, as I'm sure you have guessed, it looks terrible! So, now I need to replace the doors. Your little trick would have saved me a lot of frustration, not to count the money!
Thanks PEG.
Okie Bob

[peg_688]

 Sorry Bob  One thing you can count on is the one pocket door in 20 that gets hung [highlight]without the tip being used[/highlight] is the one that will need to be removed to be cut down.   Murphy's  law

 I try to keep Mr. Murphy off my job sites He sneaks in once in a while  
 Ussually when I'm rushing or just plain tired :'(

 PEG

[jraabe]

Thanks for the great tutorial PEG. Very well done! I'm going to add this thread to the main page links.

[peg_688]

 Thanks John    If you don't mind I'll just keep adding to it (or should I do it some other way once you move it ?), as I think of things or do things,  the pictures really help show what I'd like to say much more betta

 

  On reveals like this window with S/R wrap , there is a sub wrap, generally 5/8 "or 3/4" plywood that goes on before the S/R setting a even reveal for the S/Rocker to put the board on. This sub wrap is shimmed for equal reveal once the S/R is applied .

   

Althought this photo looks like the left is not the same as the right , it's the angle of the camera, they are very close , if the S/R was just nailed to the framing it would be un equal / wandering  up the sides.

On different styles of window , the one shown is a casement , the reveal might differ as to it's width , compared to a fix window or single hung , but the reveal line on each window itself should match all around .  

[jraabe]

We can leave it right here and you and others can add to it. I just added a link on the main homepage.

[glenn-k]

The tip on cutting the 45 on molding etc. and following the profile is great PEG.  Really beats trying to do it with a scriber.  Great information.  Great presentation.

[peg_688]

 Heres a bit more , bay windows , step ups , end returns , caulking and more.

    The secert corner tool,

     WD -40 spray can top  

    whats in the other bucket, scraps of 1/8 , 1/4 , 3/8 , 1/2 , 5/8, 3/4 plywood and lots of plastic lam scraps , ripped to about 1 1/4 wide 3 to 4 " long . I use those to shim the sills , vary the # and width to get the window reveal the same .

   

     Cut and fit all 3 sills , in this case, then pick a happy spot that all 3 will look good at , if your framer , me in this case did his job right and thought about it when the windows where set , the trim job is easier.

 

 

Nice clean line / level ,etc.

   Step ups are easy no brainer just cut the base down at the bottom and keep going.

   

 Step downs are the killer , ya got to plan on those or they bite ya . None on this job step downs that is .

    caulking the base top , window sills and gaps at door casing . there will be some gaps , D/W is not very flat corners get built up in the mudding process. On this job pre stained trim greenish walls , clear caulk works best , this stuff goes on white / drys clear, and is paintable .  The clear picks up both the wall and wood color and softness the shadow  line .  On paintgrade white caulk is as good as any the painter will just paint it .

 

 

   Apron returns  simply cut two 45° angle one on the apron end and one  on a scrap piece of casing then make a 90° cut so ya just get the little return , nail the apron on under the sill , add glue to the little return and push it into place use a little block to drive it tight .

 

    Crap heres the "more "part,   !!!






 So the little truth is out we all screw up even us pro's  

Ok don't panic and slam the piece down on the floor and really ruin it .  Stay calm , ya right I never should have forced it that much ya big dummy,  

 Ok glue is our friend , put a little , yes a little not to much glue in the split use a file , filing down only while holding the split together to relieve that area [highlight]ya just spit "dummy"[/highlight] .  then wiggle the chip back into place ,[highlight] careful ya  all thumbs nit wit [/highlight].

 


Ok now a little tap with a block and a bit  o color puddy , and well it 's going to be ok  

 
 

  It was the last sill , believe it or not , wasn't rushing overly , that big lump of texture got me
 Plus the fact I wanted it to go , and not have to file it again. Well that saved me some time ,  

 


 That's why I get the big bucks  

   Good luck , PEG

[glenn-k]

Thanks PEG --nice job - good info ----- I just noticed you chew yourself out when you mess up, the same as me.

I guess we both know we should know better. :-/ but - nice save.

[glenn kangiser]

Have you ever used these PEG - looks like a useful tool.  They can apparently be slipped over edges also.

Steel Pinch Dogs from Hardwicks

[peg_688]

Have you ever used these PEG - looks like a useful tool.  They can apparently be slipped over edges also.

Steel Pinch Dogs from Hardwicks

 I've  seen-um but never used-um  , I like  a pony pipe clamp, and I have about 15 of them ,and  various lenghts of pipe  . I'd just not think you'd get the right pressure , on the right spot , with the pinch dogs .

  They could come in handy in a pinch though

 I really need to go to Hardwicks store one day when I'm in Seattle, I've hear it's a tool heaven  

[glenn-k]

I once had a Doberman Pinscher - probably not a pinch dog though.  I wouldn't pinch her - she'd bite.  Shut up, Glenn.  :-/

[peg_688]

Bumped up for Okie bob

Alas buryed on page 20 something  :'(, but like the phoenix it has risen

[glenn-k]

Way to go, PEG.  I see you resurrected one of my stupid comments too.  Probably why this one made it to page 20. :-/

[peg_688]

Well ya never know what'll show up , and Glenn you have good to great odds on a , ah :-/ :-? Oh never mind  

[Okie_Bob]

Hey Glenn and Peg, I had a little extra time this morning and was re-reading some old posts and stumbled on this one.
Was thinking it would be nice if Peg would add more to this with tips and ideas for trim, cabinets, etc??
PLEASE!!!
Ok, I'm begging.
May have asked this before but, need to ask again. Peg, if cost was not that much an objective, what power tools would you really need to build cabinets and do trim work? I really want a good table saw and mitre saw that cuts up to 12 inchs..you know, the one that pushes as well as just cuts straight down? I think I really need both and need some help here justifying the expense!!! (know what I mean?) Home Depot has a real heavy cast iron base table saw that is around $600 and a DeWalt compound mitre saw for around $600 as well.  Obviously, I won't be building enough cabinets to justify the cost of these tools but, the idea is I can use them when I retire in a couple of years doing odd jobs and remodle jobs for other people. What do you think?
Okie Bob