I have some 10 inch fibrous cements siding on my house that over 10 years has about 30 places where the siding cracked. Before I repaint I am thinking of using a sheet metal strip to cover the crack. The idea came when I saw a similar wood siding house that had these 2" sheet metal covers where siding met on long runs. I would just glue these on with some 3M 5200 polyurethane
I can make these of coarse but has anyone a better idea or has seen these commercially? Any with texture that would match?
Picture at link.
https://plus.google.com/photos/+DaveJAngelini/albums/5107851265436618401/5501648926316690610?banner=pwa&pid=5501648926316690610&oid=100660438498145764786
Have a look here (http://www.simplicitytool.com/PDFs/Siding%20Accessories%20catalog.pdf)
scrolldown about 3/5 the way. Look for the "140 Series Retrofit Joint Covers".
Online sales source here (http://www.prosidingaccessories.com/)
Thanks Don! The wood textured ones on page 16 of your link look almost perfect but only 1 inch wide if I am reading correctly. I really need 2 inches total width in a few places. I bet I could use 2 of these and be fine. Appreciate it!
A little more on this repair. I ended up using Home Depot for a 36" sheet of .016" aluminum and cut my own widths to cover the cracks in the siding. The aluminum has a leather finish that looks pretty decent against the wood finish hardie board. Most of my cracks/ wide joints were straight but a few were curved and needed a 2" wide strip for the 8.25" laps.
I chose 3M marine polyurethane but I suppose the best liquid nails that won't harden would work. I know the 3M stuff from decades and chose it. I also only glued one side of the crack to the metal to allow expansion.
The links Don gave me really helped me.
Glad to hear you have a resolution, Dave.
I think I need to ask another question on this.
I am using the 5200 adhesive and it is working as expected but since it takes so long to cure (24 hours) and I have some places high up on the wall that are not easy to spend time on a ladder.
I would like some way to temporarily hold the thin metal strips to the fiber cement for 18 hours or so.
Duct tape, masking tape, makes a mess from the sun, and does not work well. Nailing the strips thru the crack in the siding up on a ladder is a pain and not real safe. :(
Any ideas on how to do this? There are 70 of these cracks that the 1.5" wood texture metal cover. It is looking like a great way to make this repair.
Thank-you!
Only things that come to mind are Gorilla tape or leaning the ladder against the wall with the feet (?) providing pressure.
Quote from: Dave Sparks on August 17, 2016, 06:01:09 PM
I think I need to ask another question on this.
I am using the 5200 adhesive and it is working as expected but since it takes so long to cure (24 hours) and I have some places high up on the wall that are not easy to spend time on a ladder.
I would like some way to temporarily hold the thin metal strips to the fiber cement for 18 hours or so.
Duct tape, masking tape, makes a mess from the sun, and does not work well. Nailing the strips thru the crack in the siding up on a ladder is a pain and not real safe. :(
Any ideas on how to do this? There are 70 of these cracks that the 1.5" wood texture metal cover. It is looking like a great way to make this repair.
Thank-you!
This is some stuff that I have used on metal roof & siding this stuff will stick to anything. I like to use the brush on! The best part is that it will not crack.You should be able to use this stuff like glue. http://www.sashco.com/products/through-the-roof/
Thanks Gary! I looked at the site but can't tell how long this would take to stick enough to hold the this metal strip to the wall?
I have used this companies big stretch caulk and it is excellent.
My problem here is the time to set is too long and the metal strip is not staying flush to the wall.
I was thinking of something that could work with my 5200 adhesive to hold until it sets in 16 hours or so.
What I was thinking was using Through the roof instead of of you'r 5200 adhesive.It douse set up really fast and if you'r siding does move any it should stretch and not let go of your metal strips.
A dot of hot glue would be another option.
Great Idea ! I will try it this am! Thanks Don!
Quote from: garyc on August 18, 2016, 10:34:56 AM
What I was thinking was using Through the roof instead of of you'r 5200 adhesive.It douse set up really fast and if you'r siding does move any it should stretch and not let go of your metal strips.
I ordered a tube and will try it out on the lower floor of the house. Trying to never go up on the ladder in 5 years! I am going to only use it on one side of the gap in order to let the siding move. Everything moves alot up here in the mountains, alot!
Let me know how that worked out.
I will Gary! Prime says it will be here today.
I don't go to the big city on weekends as we are a tourist town into Yosemite.
I tried the hot glue with the 5200 and that worked fine.
I am hoping that your adhesive will set fast enough that I do not have to carry a hot glue gun up the ladder.
Quote from: MountainDon on June 18, 2015, 01:07:10 PM
Have a look here (http://www.simplicitytool.com/PDFs/Siding%20Accessories%20catalog.pdf)
scrolldown about 3/5 the way. Look for the "140 Series Retrofit Joint Covers".
Online sales source here (http://www.prosidingaccessories.com/)
Don I ended up buying some of these that you linked. I could not get anymore wood texture metal at Home Depot. They no longer carry it and it was just there on the shelf. The link above in your email made me just what I wanted. They even made the extra width I needed to cover some of the wider cracks in the Hardy siding. Alot of reasons why these cracked but if anyone needs to do this repair (and I am sure there will be others) I will post some pictures next week. They sold me (100) 1.5 inch X 9" thin aluminum wood texture strips for $60 and they would make other sizes also. They are up in Oregon
Is this just from wood textured aluminum trim coil? If so go over to the vinyl siding supplies aisle and wait for a contractor to happen by, he can make those out of scraps or would probably give you some scrap pieces.
Dave! If you bought this in a calking tube I would use a real stiff paint brush to spreed it out. What i like to do is take a paint brush and cut 1/2 of the bristles off to make it stiffer. The last time I used this stuff I used the brush on that comes in a quart or gallon. The tube stuff is a lot more solid and I thank that this would work better in your situation.Good luck!!!
Quote from: Don_P on August 20, 2016, 05:12:19 PM
Is this just from wood textured aluminum trim coil? If so go over to the vinyl siding supplies aisle and wait for a contractor to happen by, he can make those out of scraps or would probably give you some scrap pieces.
I would say you are right Don. We don't get to the big city very often and our small town does not have a "vinyl supply aisle" We don't have a stop light in the whole county....
[embed=425,349][/embed]
Quote from: garyc on August 20, 2016, 08:04:23 AM
Let me know how that worked out.
The through the roof silicon works fine but does not set fast enough to hold the metal strip. I tried goriila tape and it was better than regular tape but not that much. I am just going to use a finish nail through the crack to hold the strip/5200 adhesive that I have so much good experience with.
(https://goo.gl/photos/6iJwbH9zPAr4ugfV9)
??? I need help with this pix please!
]https://goo.gl/photos/6iJwbH9zPAr4ugfV9] (https://goo.gl/photos/6iJwbH9zPAr4ugfV9) (Fixed 8/26, see below -- HP)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DyhdzEIrc5MCdbIxr3_w-GJ6Sg5IcHi3oVbrV1z9wzlgKwIZxPH43ZZfCgNmXRTc_EhgTXCGYo9f=w1024-h576-no)
EDIT: I have trouble with google images here into the forum, google has ruined me for this exercise...
but here's a link to that image, opens in another tab
https://goo.gl/photos/6iJwbH9zPAr4ugfV9 (https://goo.gl/photos/6iJwbH9zPAr4ugfV9)
I'm sorry that through the roof did not work for you. Question for you! Why are you having all of these cracks in your siding.
I appreciate the advice Gary and will use it for something soon.
There probably are 3 reasons why this is happening.
This siding is by Certainteed not Hardy but they both have had problems up here in the Sierra. (lot's of temp change and it can be rapid)
When it was installed in 2003 they were not advising to only nail to tops. My pix is low resolution, but do you see the exposed nails on the bottoms?
Certainteed has stopped making it >:( and there are lawsuits and settlements. :(
The nail height in the fiberous cement was often too deep where the cracks are.. :o
Thanks HP for the fix to my pix and what did I do wrong? Will it go away if my link breaks?
I still am very happy with it as it has burned (plastic deck chair) near the foundation during a wildfire and could not catch. I now do a much better job of removing anything flamable outside - I bought metal deck chairs.
I am going to repaint it a cedar color in the next few years and want this to be decent looking. There is a link to pix on my web page that showed the fire and just life at my offgrid home. There are embedded captions that are still there but not the way they were when google supported Picasa - gotta fix that next week.
Thanks for the image help HP.
We have the Hardie and don't quite have the high temperatures you do, but it does get below 0 F in winter. So far (2009-10), so good.
What did I do wrong on the pix and will it go away if my google link goes?
Can't help on the pix, I'm seeing several addresses on the various links under right click> properties I think ???
The thermal coefficient of these sidings is pretty low, certainly not zero. They do contain wood fiber which has a much higher potential for movement with moisture change. Was it by any chance wet in the pack when installed, in other words pinned to the wall when the wood fibers were in a swollen condition that later dried and shrank? I've installed certainteed on one house, about 5 years ago, top nailed only by hand, about 100 degrees F max total temp range, dry storage. Do you see more cracking as time goes on or is it done?
Hey Don,
The siding was good for the first 5 years. It was not wet when installed. A pretty nice April with mild temps over the week it took to go up.
I would say it is done cracking and that is the reason I am fixing it now before repainting. It does look good with the strips.
There was one section where a stud was slightly twisted and if that gives you any clue, it has the most cracks.
The bottom nailing is probably the main cause but as I said the nail height (too deep) and the rapid temp change and the ???
The picture should remain so long as the location and link down change.
Two things were going on - format for images is [ img ]http://path/to/image.jpg[ /img ] minus the spaces. I think you had not closed a bracket.
Also, I had to dig a bit to get to the image itself - not just the page that the image was embedded in - linking to that in the above format would not work, you have to use the direct path to the image itself. Google makes that a little difficult. IE11 is convienient in that you can right click on an image in the browser, and get its URL path - then just cut and paste between the image tags.
You were on the right track.
Nice to be on the track at all sometimes! Thanks I will give it try later.
Anyone who wants to see a good movie about siding, my favorite siding movie, with Danny Devito from the 80's Tin Men.
https://www.google.com/#q=movie+tin+men
rofl
(the movie, not your siding.....)
I think the scene where the sales guys drop on purpose a 100 dollar bill is priceless. De vito was great in the john grishom movie about the lawyers screwing evryone equally as they often do.
What was the name of that one where the the medical insurance company denied coverage because they thought their client was too stupid?
Denied 8 times because you are stupid stupid stupid.
Back to siding. What I really need for this project, still have about 30 more cracks is something like a contact cement that would set fast (2 minutes or less) to hold the aluminum strip to the siding while the 5200 adhesive sets. The best beside a nail was the hot glue but I have some 28 foot peaks on this roof. Lucky most of the cracks are down low on sides that get alot of sun.
Contact cement: 3M 30NF (https://www.zoro.com/3m-adhesive-contact-1-qt-30nf-green/i/G2655904/) There are many sources, but I have bought from Zoro and was satisfied with the experience.
I really like this adhesive. Very low odor and non flammable and it sticks great! Not cheap, but much better than the other NF, low odor brands I have tried. Qt is the smallest size I believe. Available in a green tint that goes clear when dry. The white also goes clear when dry but the green makes that more apparent.
Do you think 3M 30NF would work Don for what I want to do? You saw the picture and the surface is irregular with nails stubs and many years of movement. I can hold it for a couple minutes only. It says functional cure 24 hours, what is that mean please?
Not exactly sure but I think that functional means full strength cure.
I first used it as I needed something that would work with foam. This doesn't dissolve / melt foam. Then I got to love the very low odor and the fact that it will not create an explosive atmosphere.
I think it should hold against the textured lap siding enough to work while the other adhesive sets. It has good initial tack.
Too bad we're so far apart as I have a partial qt jug in the shop.
Thanks ! I have to give some thought on this as it sounds like it will stick so fast that I may have an issue with moving the 1.5" strips over the crack.
The strips do not just "go on" and there is some positioning and sliding the strip into the lap siding overlap.
Do you think I could pry this off if I goof up?
If the strips have to be slid sideways into place this would not be a good choice. It produces a virtually immediate grab.
I wonder if cyanoacrylate would work? (crazy glue) It bonds quickly and there are accelerants that make it flash and set immediately. It is not waterproof but that won't matter after the other adhesive sets.
Great minds think alike! My wife just bought some for a project she is doing and will give me the tube after she uses 1/2 of it.
I was not implying that I was great mind with you :( She probably is with you :D
Thanks Don!
Sprinkling a little baking soda on the CA gives it an instant set just like store bought accelerant. Accelerants smell, baking soda does not
[cool] I didn't know that.