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General => Owner-Builder Projects => Topic started by: ChugiakTinkerer on April 13, 2017, 04:34:54 PM

Title: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on April 13, 2017, 04:34:54 PM
I've noted in my main build thread that I'm currently working on a 12x16 cabin that will serve as a guest cabin when all is said and done.  I thought I should document it separately from the "big house" cabin that is yet to be built, hence this thread.

As a recap, our property is on a small lake in Alaska, near Lake Louise in the Copper River basin.  The lake is roughly a mile across and accessible by float plane.  In the winter we access the property via snowmachine.  Here's a picture from the property looking east towards the Wrangell Mountains.  The cabin will be in the center of the pic, this side of the spruce trees.

(http://i.imgur.com/1PyQ3Du.jpg)


I'm building in a full loft to provide extra sleep space and/or storage space.  Walls are framed with 2x6 with a 10' top plate.  Loft joists will be balloon framed in, resting on a let-in 2x8.  The joists will extend 24" beyond the walls to tie in to the rafters, as shown below:

(http://i.imgur.com/OWxWWxe.png)

With a 12:12 pitch roof, there won't be a lot of head room in the loft.  I can live with that, as it is essentially meant to be the same as the cabover portion in a pickup camper.  If there are lots of guests, throw the kids in the loft and the parents can enjoy a proper bed downstairs.  Rafters are 2x10, with R30 insulation and plastic attic vents to allow air flow from the soffit to the ridge.  Roofing will be standing seam on top of complete ice&water shield.  Siding is undecided, either home-milled board and batten or something very low maintenance.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on April 13, 2017, 04:50:59 PM
Because we are in an area of discontinuous permafrost, I am building the cabin on pads that will sit on top of the ground.  Cribbing made of railroad ties is a popular way of raising cabins above the ground.  It facilitates adjustment by leveling and shimming if the ground moves due to frost heaves or permafrost thawing.  Here's a shot of one of the footings:

(http://i.imgur.com/XcByDFb.jpg)

My beams are built-up pressure-treated 2x8s.  I tied them together with a few 2x8 to help reduce the chance of the beams rolling due to shear forces.  The floor joists are 2x8 at 11' 9" long on 16" center.  I put blocking in at 4' spacing.  I insulated the floor space as I was building the floor.  The process was to attach 1x4 furring strips on the underside of the joists.  I then dropped a 2" thick of blue foam cut to fit.  It rests on top of the furring strips, even with the bottom of the joist.  I followed with a batt of R21 fiberglass, then topped it with 3/4" plywood.  Here's my sister helping in the floor-building process.  You can see the furring strips on the underside of the joists.

(http://i.imgur.com/GuGsroL.jpg)


Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on April 13, 2017, 04:56:42 PM
We were busting our butts trying to get things done with the floor last weekend.  Just as I was nailing down the last row of plywood my generator shut down.  Thankfully I have a backup generator and was able to get it fire up in short order and finish the job.  The sun was close to setting when I performed my floor completion jig.

(http://i.imgur.com/KVwUSob.jpg)

The plan this weekend is to get the walls and the roof up.  I am a little anxious because the trail into the property is starting to melt away.  Hopefully I'll have more pics to share come Monday.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: new land owner on April 13, 2017, 08:46:14 PM
This spring I will be building a 12 x 16 guest cottage at my camp in the Adirondacks. Ill be looking forward to more pictures.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Starvin on April 14, 2017, 02:03:18 PM
REALLY interested, as this is the same thing my wife and I plan to do on our property. Build the guest shed first. Similar dimensions, though I was thinking 12x18 and I plan to build on skids on top of a crushed stone base for future relocation.

Post lots of pics! Good luck!
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: NathanS on April 14, 2017, 05:10:50 PM
Looks good, beautiful property too.

Good call on the standing seam, at 12-12 it would require miraculous conditions for any snow to ever accumulate on it.

Love seeing all that insulation, you'll be able to warm that place up nice and quick.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on April 18, 2017, 11:55:55 AM
We made it to the property Easter weekend.  Normally it's about an hour +/- to ride from the end of the road to our place.  With much of the snow gone, the trails are very rough and overheating of the machine is a concern.  We stopped often and shoveled snow onto the tracks to keep the hifax cool.  The idea was to get in early on Saturday morning when the ground was still frozen.  Didn't quite happen that way.  :)  The journey took almost three hours to travel 10 miles.  Almost walking pace!  We made it to property by 1:45 pm.

I have a friend with a cabin in the area and came by Saturday afternoon to help.  We banged out the side walls in four hours and called it a night.

(http://i.imgur.com/O2zh664.jpg)

My buddy had to get back to town for a little office work on Sunday so it was myself, my wife, my sister, and my chief of security working on Easter Sunday.  Here he is inspecting the lumber pile.

(http://i.imgur.com/IzxOEF2.jpg)
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on April 18, 2017, 12:06:12 PM
I neglected to mention that the ride in on Saturday was pretty brutal.  At one point my wife was navigating some tussocks and the snowmachine rolled on her.  In a gentle way, sort of.  Except that that she was gripping the handlebar at the time of impact and suffered a jammed thumb.  She got to spend the weekend icing it and looking like a bird with a broken wing.

We framed up the two gable walls on Sunday. 

(http://i.imgur.com/5hAWUsc.jpg)

After putting up the south wall as shown above, we had to make a decision.  Either pack up and head out during the heat of the day, or stay another night in the Weatherport and ride out early the next morning.  We decided the latter option was the wisest choice and spent the rest of the day working on the cabin.  Here's what it looked like as the sun was rising on Monday:

(http://i.imgur.com/UStIjcF.jpg)
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on April 18, 2017, 12:39:12 PM
The last thing we did Sunday night was cover everything for an extended time away.  I covered the floor with a tarp to minimize any moisture getting into the floor and insulation.  It may be a while before I can get back out and get a roof up.  If I wait until I can get flown in, it won't be until June.  So I may try to blaze a summer trail with my ATV and get a head start on the summer construction.

Lifting up the gable walls was all that three 50-somethings could handle.  In the future I will use wall jacks.  It's too easy to get hurt when you're already tired and straining to get a wall upright.  For some odd reason, the things I could do at 21 are just a little more difficult now.  This was for a 2x6 wall 24" on center with two windows and a door, gable peak at about 16 feet.  My sister and I lifted the south wall okay, it just has two windows.  The framing on the north wall adds a lot more weight, and it was late in the day.  Note to self: invest in wall jacks for the next project.

I liked the suggestion I saw in another thread about using a grinder to smooth out the notch cut for letting in the stringers for the loft joists.  It's a great idea, and I wish I was smart enough to have brought my grinder out to the bush.  I wasn't smart enough for that.  But I was smart enough to have a new Stihl forestry axe.  It lacked the blazing speed of a high-RPM power tool but I was able to trim out the notched without too much effort.  It gave the illusion of living out Dick Proenekke's One Man's Wilderness (https://books.google.com/books?id=fy3tBgAAQBAJ&lpg=PP1&dq=proenneke&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q=proenneke&f=false).

A couple times during the framing I caught myself counting up my lumber inventory and worrying that I was going to come up short for a critical piece.  If I had followed my plan I would have been shy of a 2x8x16' for a loft joist.  This is because my plan was to use 16' 2x8 stringers for the balloon framing let-in stringer.  I realized I could use two 8' ones on each wall and save myself the dilemma of being short one loft joist.  Second note to self: when buying lumber add an extra one or two for each joist, rafter, etc.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Don_P on April 18, 2017, 05:07:43 PM
Good progress  [cool] Michelle and I worked alone most of the time. One thing we often did with walls was leave out the window and door kings, jacks and headers and any really close by studs and the upper top plate. This allowed us to lift much larger sections of wall than we would have been able to otherwise. We would assemble the window or door framing flat on the floor then stand it and insert it into the upright wall.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on April 18, 2017, 11:02:01 PM
That's some good thinking there Don.  Hopefully I'll have sense enough to recall it next time I frame a wall.   d*

Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: pmichelsen on April 19, 2017, 09:37:18 AM
Quote from: ChugiakTinkerer on April 18, 2017, 12:39:12 PMIt gave the illusion of living out Dick Proenekke's One Man's Wilderness (https://books.google.com/books?id=fy3tBgAAQBAJ&lpg=PP1&dq=proenneke&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q=proenneke&f=false).

I love this movie, Dick was a beast.

Great progress!
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on June 18, 2017, 08:01:47 PM
I got out to the property this weekend and made some progress.  Took my teen daughter along, and she was assigned to take pictures.  I'll get a download from her, hopefully it won't be all selfies.  Got the loft framed up and almost all the 3/4 plywood sub-floor in.  Rain slowed us down yesterday so it will have to wait until I get out there again.  I want to get the roof on so bad, but man oh man there are so many things to do first.  I woke up early on Saturday and was enjoying a cup of coffee on the tent platform, listening to a trumpeter swan down on the lake.  I guess after seeing the new neighbors he decided to move on to a classier locale.  Must have had a full belly because it took half the lake for him to get airborne.  Swans are so graceful in flight, but getting to that state is bit of a struggle.  Wings and feet slapping the water with all his might, and only just barely getting signs of progress.  Kind of metaphorical for my progress on this cabin I guess.

The other bonus was seeing a brown bear on the little island about 1/2 mile from us.  Thankfully he had better places to be and we saw no further signs of him.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on July 07, 2017, 01:29:51 PM
Still getting some work done and I'm still lousy at documenting my work with pictures.  I'll try to get something posted tonight.

I flew out to the property with my sister for the last weekend in June.  Got the loft floor completely done and started cutting a few rafters.  Started thinking about the visit that my folks will make and realized that a deck would be a good investment of time.  So we spent the rest of that weekend putting a 6'x12' deck on the front of the cabin.

As the weekend of July1 was approaching, I learned that my mother had some minor health issues that would preclude a trip to our property.  it was a bit of a disappointment to not have my parents come out for the 4-day weekend, but my wife and I decided it would provide an opportunity to put up the roof.  So we flew out to the lake with the dog and had a wonderful time.

The weather was not helpful though, as about 2/3 of the time it was raining or drizzling.  I set up a tarp over my tent platform to have a dry area to work and got busy cutting more rafters.  Got the ridge board up and started putting up the rafters.  The rake rafters proved to be a real challenge to get in place and nail in.  I got creative with using scrap wood to make a little shelf to hold the eave end in place while my wife used a rope and pulley to get the other end of the rake rafter in place.  Would have been a great thing to get a picture of, but that wasn't a priority at the time.  Still no plywood on the roof yet, so it's all still exposed to the weather.  At this point I can only hope the tarp on the floor is protecting things well enough from the rain.

My wife did claim the first known swim in our lake.  She enjoys open water swimming and gave our lake a thumbs up.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on January 13, 2018, 03:43:44 PM
Time to get back to work.  It's winter and there's lots of snow, so I'll be spending lots of time at the property over the next few months.  My wife and I didn't get out there until last weekend.  Saturday was spent breaking trail through about 3' of nice powder.  We got a bit of a late start due to fog on Lake Louise.  It's still early in the season so the trail on the lake wasn't marked.  It made for slow going.  We stopped partway to get a photo of some caribou.

(https://i.imgur.com/EdpeI17.jpg)

There's lots of overflow this year.  That's a condition where a lot of snow accumulates on a frozen lake.  The weight of the snow pushes down the ice, and water comes up through cracks or along the ice edge.  It's not generally dangerous unless it causes you to be stuck overnight.  We ran into some overflow on our lake, just about a quarter mile shy of reaching our place.  I neglected to get a picture, but this post (https://trapperman.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4368161/Re:_Advice_on_getting_snowmobi#Post4368161) on the Trapperman forum shows similar conditions.

Digging out the Weatherport was a bit of work.  But everything looked to be exactly as we left it.  No bears or squirrels messed with my stuff.

(https://i.imgur.com/AClHsIk.jpg)

Here's a panorama looking at the lake from the entrance of our Weatherport.

(https://i.imgur.com/oT7mRar.jpg)


Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: CabinNick on January 15, 2018, 04:03:58 PM
Looks like quite the adventure.  I spent a lot of time growing up on the MN/Canada border and hated overflow ice!  It is always hard to understand how you can get stuck in slush when it is -30!  Also spent a summer north of Nome (tip of Cape Espenberg) living in a weatherport - those things are pretty darn bomb proof. 

I think winter forgot about us here in Eastern Oregon this year.  Last year at this time I was shoveling 4' of snow off my roof at -20 temps; this year I am working in my unheated shop in a t-shirt as it hovers around 50.  Weird. 

Enjoy seeing the pics of your adventure.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Beavers on January 19, 2018, 08:47:52 AM
Love the photo's  [cool] Keep them coming!

That is an awesome location...looks very quiet.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on April 04, 2018, 10:55:59 AM
It's slow going but I am making progress.  I have the rafters up but no sheathing yet.  I wanted to share the view from the loft with my wife, and as soon as she got up in the loft she decided there needs to be a dormer window looking east.  So that set me back a few weeks making that modification.  I'm planning on getting the roof sheathing on this weekend, weather and back permitting.  I've got a few photos to share, and will get those posted as soon as I can.

One thing I need to do is put the rafter straps on.  Is there a product normally used for this, or is any sort of steel strap suitable?

Edit to add: This is for strapping over the ridge board to prevent uplift, as an alternative to rafter ties collars.  I'm guessing there's a Strongtie product that people use.

Or this one at Lowe's: https://www.lowes.com/pd/USP-24-in-Wood-to-Wood-Strap-Tie/3376276
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Don_P on April 04, 2018, 07:05:30 PM
Yup that's the strap. Unless you have a whacko inspector put them on after sheathing, easier sheathing nailing.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on April 04, 2018, 08:10:28 PM
Considering I'm the sole jurisdictional authority and will be doing all inspections, I think I do have a whacko inspector!   d*

Thanks Don, I hope to get it buttoned down soon.  It's been dragging on way too long.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Don_P on April 04, 2018, 09:05:41 PM
I figured you were it, that was more for any others reading. I have seen one inspector online bragging about failing a job for straps over the sheathing... reading as strictly as his little pea would allow. I've done it that way but you have to predrill and hand nail the strap area.

I'm amazed at the progress in those climes, I've been throwing the wood to it tonight trying to thaw out, the internal furnace ain't what it used to be!
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on April 09, 2018, 11:32:02 PM
A little update; here's a view looking east over our lake toward the Wrangell Mountains.  The dormer is about as compact as I could frame it and still get in a 3' high window.  I had to drop down to 2x6 for the window header just to have enough clearance above the roof line.  Code says two 2x8 are sufficient, I hope three 2x6 does the job.  Picture taken Easter morning.

(https://i.imgur.com/1JND1CK.jpg)

Last weekend I got back to the cabin and finished my blocking and outlookers, then I got half my plywood sheathing up on the roof.  Actually being out on top of it, I realize that a 12:12 pitch is really steep!  I was tied off in a harness, but I can see that when it comes to putting on the underlayment and the metal roofing I will need a work platform.

So I got to thinking... which usually gets me in trouble.  I have a bunch of 2x6 pressure treated 12' at the property, how practical is it to build my own hanging scaffold brackets?  I'm envisioning something like this:

(https://i.imgur.com/xYmMCLA.png)

A detail of the bracket is here.  I would use structural screws like Timberloks to ensure I had a robust frame.

(https://i.imgur.com/TdCFX88.png)

Am I crazy to think this would hold up a 300 lb man?

EDIT: I tweaked the bracket design as shown in next posting.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on April 10, 2018, 12:14:01 AM
New and improved!  The bottom connection seemed a little dicey so I added a block that should help hold things in place.  Also using 2x4 for the upright on the bracket.  Would 2x4 be sufficient for the brace as well?  Sticking with 2x6 for the cross member that supports the decking.

(https://i.imgur.com/cXOdUEJ.png)
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Don_P on April 10, 2018, 07:14:23 AM
If you remove the lower top plate it allows 1.5" more header room. LVL's are also about 2x stronger than dimensional lumber, I've also raised the header up through the plates into the rafter a bit and strapped across the wall in the soffit area with a flatways 2x to reinforce the wall.

For the work platform if the window spacing allows I extend a 2xhealthy out of the window opening, jack under it to the sill, all nailed to he window jack then you can run a post up inboard to the interior ceiling and a jack over that to counter the cantilevered 2xhealthy. On the outboard end whenever you can run a kicker to the ground it is far stronger, your guardrail post to ground if possible. It can be lapped 2x's to get length... nails not screws unless timberlocks. Again if you can jack under the 2xhealthy it is stronger, wood on wood rather than wood on connectors, it is a 300lb man swinging a 50# sheet and stomping around in the wind. Bad scaffold setups probably cause more falls than anything, it ain't no fun when you see the building going over the horizon and realize it's you taking a ride  d*. Don't work alone up there, somebody has to be within shouting range if things go south. When your feet leave the ground slow way down and turn your situational awareness way up.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on April 10, 2018, 02:54:10 PM
I considered skipping the top plate, as it looks ornamental rather than serving to tie a corner, etc.  But that just seemed naughty.

I'll do groundposts for the rail, that would help a lot.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Beavers on April 10, 2018, 09:28:01 PM
That's a great view from the dormer window [cool]

I agree...12:12 pitch is too steep for a ladder. I was planning a platform like yours until I found some scaffolding for cheap at an auction.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on June 06, 2019, 02:32:16 PM
I'm still alive here in the great white north, and am busy making preparations for a trip out to the property in a few weeks.

Work is progressing slowly on the 12x16, but there is measurable progress.

Here's the scaffolding I put in for working more safely on the roof.
(https://i.imgur.com/yvUWar8.jpg)

Much of my building season this last winter was spent at home assisting my wife through surgery recovery.  Sheathing is complete on the roof.  To date there is water&ice shield on the east side of the roof and still a blue tarp on the west side.  I purchased my metal roofing material and hauled it out to the property.  We'll be on site for 9 days in early July and will be getting the metal roof on and flashed.

In addition to the scaffolding I will be using a harness and fall line.  I'm planning on making a chicken ladder out of 2x4 and hang it off the roof peak to allow safely moving up and down the roof while screwing in the standing-seam panels.

I welcome further suggestions on installing a standing seam roof on a 12:12 pitch.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Migraine Craftsman on June 06, 2019, 05:04:25 PM
Scaffolding looks good, add you a 2 by 6 to the bottom of the rail (vertically) (by walkboard) rest your ladder there (to catch) and put the ladder on the roof and you're golden. You'll be like a squirell going up and down move the ladder when needed. Boom, roof is done, by the way love standing seam roofs.

Good luck and be safe, by the way what is the white stuff on the ground?
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Don_P on June 06, 2019, 08:30:26 PM
A couple more, google ladder ridge hook. You can also separate the ladder, tit the top rungs together and set it over the ridge, one ladder section laying on the roof on each side, tie off the side opposite you. Tie old shirts to the ladder before the last sheet so you can put it on the previous sheet without scratching to finish up.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on June 08, 2019, 04:15:33 PM
Quote from: Don_P on June 06, 2019, 08:30:26 PM
A couple more, google ladder ridge hook. You can also separate the ladder, tit the top rungs together and set it over the ridge, one ladder section laying on the roof on each side, tie off the side opposite you. Tie old shirts to the ladder before the last sheet so you can put it on the previous sheet without scratching to finish up.

I unfortunately only have one extension ladder on site and can't get another out there until the winter.  So I've got to make one out of the materials I have.  Along the lines of a ladder ridge hook but with dimensional lumber.  Here's what I'm considering:
(https://i.imgur.com/M7CSOsb.png)
Quote from: Migraine Craftsman on June 06, 2019, 05:04:25 PM
Scaffolding looks good, add you a 2 by 6 to the bottom of the rail (vertically) (by walkboard) rest your ladder there (to catch) and put the ladder on the roof and you're golden. You'll be like a squirell going up and down move the ladder when needed. Boom, roof is done, by the way love standing seam roofs.
By hanging it off the roof ridge I can keep the scaffold walkway clear.  If that feels too dicey I can try butting it up against the railing using a 2x6 as you suggest.

Quote from: Migraine Craftsman on June 06, 2019, 05:04:25 PM
Good luck and be safe, by the way what is the white stuff on the ground?
Heh, that's on a good day.  Here's what it looked like getting to the weatherport earlier that year:
(https://i.imgur.com/AClHsIk.jpg)
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Don_P on June 08, 2019, 10:05:35 PM
The right hand chicken ladder is easier and stronger. Project the hooks up above the top face by 1.5" and put another rung under, downslope, of them to lock them in place from rotating under load  ;)
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on June 09, 2019, 02:03:58 PM
Quote from: Don_P on June 08, 2019, 10:05:35 PM
The right hand chicken ladder is easier and stronger. Project the hooks up above the top face by 1.5" and put another rung under, downslope, of them to lock them in place from rotating under load  ;)

I think I'm reading you Don.  I would turn the hook pieces 90 degrees to get better anchoring to the rails, then add what I labelled a "locking rung".  See the ladder on the left:

(https://i.imgur.com/T0K3qC1.png)

I would also add a couple of braces to reduce lateral racking.  The ladder on the right is a refinement on my earlier design.  It has 2x4 treads instead of 2x6 and is supported with 1x4 under each tread.  It is a little more work but I can cut the supports in advance and haul them out so it won't take that much time to assemble.

Edit to add: Up until now I've only been thinking about installing the panels.  The ridge will get some Z flashing and a vented ridge cap.  The ladder on the left with rungs on top will allow me to place the rails on the standing seam panels.  45-degree treads would be much more comfortable but won't allow me to use the ladder once the panels are in place.  That means no brace board either.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Don_P on June 09, 2019, 05:27:33 PM
Yup, that's it. When you get to the ridge cap if you need the working room under the ladder screw a 2x or even 2 across the pads on your hook and also high and low on the ladder, this will lift the apex up off the ridge.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on June 09, 2019, 06:53:32 PM
That's starting to look pretty cumbersome.  The off-the-shelf hooks designed for clamping onto an aluminum ladder are starting to look appealing.  My problem is, I think, they aren't big enough to straddle my vented ridge flashing.

(https://i.imgur.com/AmnGKfE.png)

I think I may get a couple anyhow and try to make them work, something like I show in the picture.  I might need to bend them a bit to get the span my ridge needs.

http://www.acrobuildingsystems.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2013/04/11084-Ladder-Hook-Spec-Sheet.pdf
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Don_P on June 09, 2019, 09:55:44 PM
If you are using the clamp on snow stops I have put them on, run a 2x4 across them then screw some vertical 2x's and another horizontal one up high enough on the roof to stand on and work the ridge. You do need comfortable access to work both sides of the ridge for quite a while to get everything screwed and clipped in for the ridge on standing seam.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on June 10, 2019, 01:10:58 PM
Quote from: Don_P on June 09, 2019, 09:55:44 PM
If you are using the clamp on snow stops I have put them on, run a 2x4 across them then screw some vertical 2x's and another horizontal one up high enough on the roof to stand on and work the ridge. You do need comfortable access to work both sides of the ridge for quite a while to get everything screwed and clipped in for the ridge on standing seam.

Don, thanks for mentioning the clamp-on brackets.  They are something I had no clue about.

That's another way I can go when dealing with the ridge cap.  Build the 2x4 ladder for panel installation and mount brackets near the ridge so I can set hrorizontal 2x4 on either side of the ridge.  Something to ponder, thanks for the suggestions.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: redside on December 09, 2019, 12:35:46 PM
Did you get the metal on the roof yet?  If not, you want to get the Sealey ladder hook which will clear the ridge cap without damage.  Put this on an aluminum ladder and you can move this easily versus wrestling the weight of the 2x homebuilt ladder option (which would work as well, but be more cumbersome if working by yourself).  Be careful the aluminum ladder doesn't scratch your roof (assuming standing seam) by wrapping duct tape several times around the rungs and bottom of side rails (basically where the ladder contacts the roof--you will thank yourself as I learned all this lesson the hard way).
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on December 12, 2019, 01:29:48 AM
Quote from: redside on December 09, 2019, 12:35:46 PM
Did you get the metal on the roof yet?  If not, you want to get the Sealey ladder hook which will clear the ridge cap without damage.  Put this on an aluminum ladder and you can move this easily versus wrestling the weight of the 2x homebuilt ladder option (which would work as well, but be more cumbersome if working by yourself).  Be careful the aluminum ladder doesn't scratch your roof (assuming standing seam) by wrapping duct tape several times around the rungs and bottom of side rails (basically where the ladder contacts the roof--you will thank yourself as I learned all this lesson the hard way).

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm almost done with the roof metal.  I've got gable and ridge flashing yet to do.

I'll be getting back out there in a month or so, weather permitting.  And I promise to take more pictures.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on January 21, 2021, 06:43:44 PM
Here's an update from casa de Tinkerer:

I had sinus surgery in early 2020, delaying getting out to the property until the spring.  Then COVID happened, and we didn't get out at all until September.  We spent a week then getting caught up, and almost got all the roof flashing done.  Doing flashing work on a 12:12 roof is slow going, even with a scaffold.  But we made some progress, so Yay!

I'm retiring in three weeks and we will be focusing a lot more time on the cabin build.  One thing I'm pursuing is installation of a solar power setup with a backup generator.  I'll have to purchase and haul the parts out in the winter, then do the installation in the summer.  That should give me enough time to build a shed for the batteries and generator.  And to go back and read all the threads in the Solar sub-forum comments in the OFF GRID POWER thread in General.

Ah it feels good to be making progress again.  Be chatting soon, CT.

P.S. The Nelchina caribou herd has taken up residence at Lake Louise.  I have never seen so many caribou.  I feel like a grumpy old man complaining about them, but they can really do number on a trail made of packed snow. They're my hippy neighbors, camping out in the meadows and trashing the trails.  >:(
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Don_P on January 21, 2021, 09:39:36 PM
Glad to hear you're still pecking away at it. I'm guessing you'll have a good bug season when it warms up with all the droppings around! What are they eating?
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on January 25, 2021, 05:13:52 PM
Hey Don!

The caribou are eating whatever they can get to by digging into the snow.  Shrubs and moss, I guess.  We'll see about the bugs, but mosquitoes are the greatest nuisance and I don't think they're a factor this time of year.

I'm getting quotes on my solar install and am pondering a shed to house the batteries, electronics, and a generator.  With cold temps being an issue I'll likely have to decide between a gasoline generator or a diesel generator with a heated structure.  There won't be much solar available December through February.  ???

Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Don_P on January 25, 2021, 06:54:20 PM
I have someone wanting to give me a quote here. I think I'm going to hold off for a little bit and see if there are any new incentives coming out of the admin change.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on January 26, 2021, 05:33:08 PM
The Renewable Energy tax credit was extended by two years in the recent appropriations bill.  So you'll be able to enjoy the same 26% credit in 2021 as was available in 2020.  It will sunset in two years, assuming no congressional action.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on February 21, 2021, 11:19:29 PM
I retired on Thursday and made a run out to the property with a half-cord of birch firewood on Friday.  I didn't stop working, I just changed bosses! (don't tell SWMBO I said that)

One of the things she wants this summer is an enclosed deck, a veranda if you will.  I'm contemplating something as below.

(https://i.imgur.com/lGN9jyf.png)

I'm going for the screen-wrapped porch feel, but want to make it as stable as I reasonably can.  I used Medeek's plugin for generating the walls and putting in the openings.  There are a couple things that I'm concerned about:

1) Do I have enough sheathing on the corners to allow for a reasonably sturdy wall?

2) Should I double up on the king stud in the wall between the windows?  I can frame it as drawn below, I just don't know if I should...

(https://i.imgur.com/MYGZCET.png)

It's a 12x16 structure with 2x4 walls and a 4:10 rafter roof. 
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Don_P on February 22, 2021, 07:54:07 AM
Congrats on retirement!
Go to apawood.com, I think, tha APA's website, and look for their narrow portal frame booklet. There are suggestions for how to frame and sheath narrow sided openings. Their focus is on garage door walls but the principle is the same. I think they run down to a 16" wall section pretty easily. A place for a little woodstove in there would extend the season and might make a place for a larger sheathed corner.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on February 22, 2021, 09:57:51 AM
Don,

Thank you!  I found the note you describe:

Portal Frame Bracing Without Hold-Down Devices
FOR USE IN CONTINUOUSLY SHEATHED WALLS
Number J740
July 2008

APA also has an online wall bracing calculator.  I'll work my way through the design steps and see what I need to have a "near code-compliant" structure.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: MountainDon on February 22, 2021, 10:00:17 PM
Hey ChugiakTinkerer. Enjoy your retirement. You are off to a great start with the ability to keep busy. With Covid-19 keeping us from the retirement travel we would have liked to do, we renovated the garage/workshop. New cabinets. Even paint of walls we never took time to paint 35 years ago when we built it. Our retirement was pushed ahead by Covid-19.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on February 23, 2021, 05:29:21 PM
Thanks for the encouragement MountainDon.

Here's my book report on the APA technical note...

I've incorporated the APA Portal Frame method to ensure we have something that can withstand the wind.  There is a nice write-up on the design and the reasons for it at this JLC article: https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/framing/the-portal-frame-option_o

There are three ways to anchor the wall segment to the floor.  I chose the one where you lap the sheathing over the rim joists by 9.25 inches.  All I have to do is get my T1-11 in 9' panels.  That did require me to upgrade the joists from my intended 2x8 to the deeper 2x10.  I also considered that we may someday want to make this an insulated building, so I switched to 2x6 walls and standard sized window openings.

View from SW:
(https://i.imgur.com/K3Lv4rs.png)

I took Don_P's advice and made the southeast corner sheltered from the wind.  The prevailing direction is from the southeast, so I'm hoping this makes for a more comfortable space inside.

View from SE:
(https://i.imgur.com/1OxHtbR.png)

What I will build is an approximation of a portal frame for a garage opening.  The only thing I am lacking to make it code-compliant is a proper foundation.  But since I am sitting on top of discontinuous permafrost I'll have to settle for less than perfect.  The incremental costs to strengthen the design are fairly minor: use two 2x12s for the opening header, extend the header the full length of the braced wall segment, extend the sheathing to the bottom of the rim joists, add tension straps to the header, and nail the sheathing down on 3" spacing.

(https://i.imgur.com/PsGsRaf.png)

Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Reninco on February 24, 2021, 08:24:38 PM

Tinkerer and other interested parties...
I think there might be a slight misunderstanding of the intent of a shearwall and the capacity that it provides.
The shearwall schedules you see in APA and in code books start with...
The base of a building starts with a large weight (most use concrete because it is economically more feasible and has no water issues; and some are also bolted right to the bedrock – same idea but even cheaper than concrete.
The "wooden" part of the building is attached to the concrete.
That concrete to wood "attachment" is like a cake mix (these parts will make this).
The wood-to-wood "attachment" above the concrete is also like a cake mix - this way gets this result.
The APA stuff is tested for structures much bigger than you are building.  The APA stuff also has "extra" capacity baked in for different wood and structure design.
Thus, the forces and those fasteners and connections are much bigger than you would ever need.
If you adhere to the common nailing schedule of 6 on 6 this will provide you with plenty of capacity to resist any racking from wind.
That includes walls with doors and windows. No double 2xs or straps or bigger headers are needed.
But... yes there is always a but.
But...you will still need to connect your house to a weight of some sort...as the wind will lift and will want to push your cabin. The image shows the "results" of the wind load. One "result" resists overturning and one "result" resists the pushing. 
(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/67/e3/FV8lrail_t.jpg) (https://imgbox.com/FV8lrail)
What weight is nearby...wait for it...wait for it...
Soil.
There are a number of anchors it just depends on your soil type.
https://bbponline.com/landscaping-and-nursery/earth-anchors-and-tree-kits/
https://www.westechrigging.com/duckbill-014x42.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RLLwKQaU0Q&feature=youtu.be

So the next step is how big is the cabin and what's your estimated peak wind speed?
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on February 25, 2021, 10:17:50 AM
Quote from: Reninco on February 24, 2021, 08:24:38 PM
Tinkerer and other interested parties...
I think there might be a slight misunderstanding of the intent of a shearwall and the capacity that it provides.
The shearwall schedules you see in APA and in code books start with...
The base of a building starts with a large weight (most use concrete because it is economically more feasible and has no water issues; and some are also bolted right to the bedrock – same idea but even cheaper than concrete.
The "wooden" part of the building is attached to the concrete.
That concrete to wood "attachment" is like a cake mix (these parts will make this).
The wood-to-wood "attachment" above the concrete is also like a cake mix - this way gets this result.
The APA stuff is tested for structures much bigger than you are building.  The APA stuff also has "extra" capacity baked in for different wood and structure design.
Thus, the forces and those fasteners and connections are much bigger than you would ever need.
If you adhere to the common nailing schedule of 6 on 6 this will provide you with plenty of capacity to resist any racking from wind.
That includes walls with doors and windows. No double 2xs or straps or bigger headers are needed.
But... yes there is always a but.
But...you will still need to connect your house to a weight of some sort...as the wind will lift and will want to push your cabin. The image shows the "results" of the wind load. One "result" resists overturning and one "result" resists the pushing. 
(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/67/e3/FV8lrail_t.jpg) (https://imgbox.com/FV8lrail)
What weight is nearby...wait for it...wait for it...
Soil.
There are a number of anchors it just depends on your soil type.
https://bbponline.com/landscaping-and-nursery/earth-anchors-and-tree-kits/
https://www.westechrigging.com/duckbill-014x42.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RLLwKQaU0Q&feature=youtu.be

So the next step is how big is the cabin and what's your estimated peak wind speed?

I get your point about the portal frame bracing being overkill when the cabin foundation is only cribbing.  My problem is that our property is located in a part of Alaska that has discontinuous permafrost.  There is the potential for frost heaving and/or subsidence due to melting ice lenses, so my options are to either invest huge sums in thoroughly testing the subsurface for permafrost or to build a structure that floats on top of the soil.  I have chosen the latter.

My model for a surface foundation comes from the Cold Climate Housing Research Center in Fairbanks, Alaska.  They publish research and case studies addressing the issues of thermal efficiency and unstable ground (eg, http://cchrc.org/media/DesignManualforNewFoundationsonPermafrost.pdf).  Anchoring to the ground is a part of the design that I have not included in my discussion or drawings, but is essential to resisting the wind.  I'm planning to use ground anchors like the ones they use on mobile homes, and your comment reminds me that I have not followed up on purchase and installation.

To sum up, I am aware that I am constructing outside the prescriptive standards in the IRC, etc.  I strive to approach the standards as best I can, and make reasonable approximations where I can't.  I'm building for myself with no jurisdictional authority, and accept the consequence for building a non-compliant structure.  But I am striving to remain code compliant wherever I can, and the portal frame bracing method is one that will ensure that the walls will not be a weak point in the construction.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on February 25, 2021, 01:33:11 PM
I last looked at the issue of anchoring a few years ago and settled at that time on a 48" screw anchor.  I'll do some more digging to make sure I've got an anchor of sufficient strength.  I'll anchor in accordance with what is recommended for mobile homes, with some extra anchors thrown in for good measure.

(https://www.mobilehomerepair.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/diagonal-vertical-tie-downs-mobile-homes.png)

The vertical ties resist the overturning force and the diagonal ties resist the lateral displacement.  A screw such as this one has a pull-out resistance of up to 6,000 lbs: https://milspecanchors.com/screw-in-ground-anchor-3-4-x-54-w-4-8-helices-galvanized/

I think I'll plan on a 2,000 lb tie-down.  That will make sourcing hardware a bit of a challenge.  For vertical tie-downs I'm thinking a strap secured across the joist and a stud will be the most secure.  I actually like the look of this safety roof anchor, just not sure of its suitability in this application.
https://www.safetycompany.com/fall-protection/fall-protection-accessories/hardware/anchorages/miller-ra41-permanent-roof-anchors/
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Reninco on February 25, 2021, 03:16:11 PM
Thanks for the quick turnaround, clarifications and build concepts
I understand the post/pier selection with your existing ground situation and this makes your foundation design a wise choice as you mentioned in the upper posts. It's nice to see thoroughness of build with no jurisdictional oversight.
As the APA was mentioned in this topic and portal frames were being discussed we should be aware that APA has a calculator for walls with "openings" – this is different in details than the portal frames/drag strut concept or the perforated wall design seen in code books. The APA testing has shown a considerable amount of "extra capacity" is available. Based on typical calculations and the small size of your cabin I feel your "upper part" of the cabin is fine and one just needs to secure it to something to prevent tipping. And that "tipping system" and the forces to prevent it should be realized in some type of connection detail in the floor plate/rim area...which with this later post you have been doing. I would take a look at the connection detail that mobile homes use, and off-the shelf wall hold-down brackets and their capacities as a start.   

Title: Supporting a heavy load
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on March 02, 2021, 03:16:27 PM
I'm working on the generator shed and need it to house a 6 kW generator that has a dry weight of 390 lbs.  The pic below shows an approximate representation of the generator.  I added the blue steel skids to show what the footprint of the unit is.  At 17 inches by 32.5 inches it is a dead load of about 100 lbs per square foot.  Adding in the weight of oil, fuel, and miscellaneous accouterments and it's more like 125 psf.

Floor details: 2x8 pressure treated joists on 16" spacing.  Sheating will be 3/4 plywood.

I'm designing a stand that will raise it to a more practical working height and will spread the load across a greater area.  2x4 framing with 1/2" sheathing all around.I have two headers, each a pair of 2x6.  I'm thinking of sistering the two joists directly under the generator.

The shed will be nominally heated in the winter and will only be housing the generator.  Any thoughts on where this falls on the spectrum from inadequate to overkill?

(https://i.imgur.com/5Z1SpDV.png)
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Nate R on March 02, 2021, 04:47:33 PM
What's the span on those 2x8s?
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on March 02, 2021, 05:46:51 PM
Quote from: Nate R on March 02, 2021, 04:47:33 PM
What's the span on those 2x8s?

Doh!  Call it a 7' 0" span.  It's an 8x8 shed with 2x6 walls.  I have a 70 psf ground snow load, and this is for a 3:12 shed roof.

The lowest span in the 2018 IRC Table R502.3.2.1(2) is 8'8" for #3 Southern Pine.  That's for 40 psf live load and 20 psf dead load.

The tributary area of the wooden stand is 12 square feet (stand is 3' x 4' x 24" tall).  That works out to about 40 psf dead load.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on March 02, 2021, 06:10:11 PM
I got off my lazy butt and went to Don P's toolbox (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=toolbox) to run some calculations on a single 2x8.

A single 2x8 of #2 HemFir can withstand up to 1,050 lbs of evenly distributed load before failing.  For a point load that gets reduced to 440 lbs.  For two point loads equally spaced, the 2x8 can withstand a total of 780 lbs.

Sistering the load-bearing joists looks like it will suffice.  I'm probably overdoing the wooden generator stand, but hey, if it's worth doing it's worth overdoing!

Edit to add:  Running the calcs on my 4x8 beam supporting the joists resulted in failure.  I need to go deeper and use three 2x10 to be able to withstand the weight of a roof fully loaded with snow.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Don_P on March 02, 2021, 08:23:30 PM
I'd drop the joists down inside those girders on hangers and avoid the girder overturning potential. Fresh air intake and exhaust outside? I'd put the gennie or the box on some rubber horse mat to help quiet the vibration. A packed dirt floor and ignore frost heave might be quieter yet.

I just hooked up a new to me 6 cyl diesel to the sawmill, inside the sawshed. Even though it is open sided the fumes ran me out. I've got some old downspout hooked to it right now but am going to get a section of exhaust pipe and run it up through the roof.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: MountainDon on March 02, 2021, 09:25:43 PM
Quote from: Don_P on March 02, 2021, 08:23:30 PM

I just hooked up a new to me 6 cyl diesel to the sawmill, inside the sawshed..............

That will be an improvement over the tractor I remember.  [cool]
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on March 02, 2021, 10:52:40 PM
Quote from: Don_P on March 02, 2021, 08:23:30 PM
I'd drop the joists down inside those girders on hangers and avoid the girder overturning potential. Fresh air intake and exhaust outside? I'd put the gennie or the box on some rubber horse mat to help quiet the vibration. A packed dirt floor and ignore frost heave might be quieter yet.

I just hooked up a new to me 6 cyl diesel to the sawmill, inside the sawshed. Even though it is open sided the fumes ran me out. I've got some old downspout hooked to it right now but am going to get a section of exhaust pipe and run it up through the roof.

I wasn't a fan of the concrete deck blocks anyhow.  Much better footprint with the cribbing.  With the shorter girder span I'm able to use three 2x8.

This will be kept warm throughout the winter, so I need insulation on the floor.  I'll run an exhaust pipe out the wall, not sure if I'll have an intake pipe bringing in outside air or if I'll just have it draw from the shed interior.  I'll have to play with it a while to see what the fresh air inflow requirements are.

A separate issue is how to keep it warm without having to burn hundreds of gallons of fuel.  I might add a solar collector like Ol Jarhead put up on his cabin.

(https://i.imgur.com/PiRQeYL.png)

Something I just thought of while looking at the preview image - I want to keep rain off the cribbing, so need to have an ample eave and rake overhang.  I had been planning on just a 12" rake, but I think I'll bump that up to 24".
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on March 02, 2021, 11:26:47 PM
For a little better perspective, this is the generator shed as currently designed.

(https://i.imgur.com/eyxrsU5.png)

I'll be spending two months out there this summer, and will have my nephew to help out for most of that.  So I am in a planning frenzy figuring out exactly what I need for all of the hoped-for work that will get done.  I've got a truck arriving with about twelve tons of lumber and gravel that I will be hauling out by snowmachine next week.  I can fine tune some of the design features as I go but I need to get the bulk of the materials out while the trail is in good shape.

And again, for anyone who missed my opening introduction this is a view of the lake from the top of our hill...

Winter:
(https://i.imgur.com/1BC4UHz.jpg)

Summer:
(https://i.imgur.com/mGTa4QN.jpg)

Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Don_P on March 03, 2021, 07:46:05 AM
Quote from: MountainDon on March 02, 2021, 09:25:43 PM
That will be an improvement over the tractor I remember.  [cool]

Oh yeah, going from 35 hp to 135, oak and hickory should no longer be a problem  ;D

On fresh air intake, look at your cubic inches and rpms, that volume of heated air will be exiting the exhaust per minute and replaced by outside air. The engine will be producing heat but it is basically a big air pump.

Looks like there are trees around and this can be rustic. Logs would be another good sound dampener.

Oh, I try not to suck down Jeff's bandwidth offsite, link to the calcs here;
timbertoolbox.com
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on March 03, 2021, 11:08:38 AM
Quote from: Don_P on March 03, 2021, 07:46:05 AM
...
Oh, I try not to suck down Jeff's bandwidth offsite, link to the calcs here;
timbertoolbox.com

Good point, and thanks for the link.  I bookmarked it this time.   d*
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Reninco on March 16, 2021, 02:18:20 PM
Tinkerer those tracks are a touch bigger than my winter blue jay footprints.
Addressing your tie-downs – an improvement would be to have them in parallel alignment, the sharp angle turn at the soil line creates two issues.
A. A bending force on the tie down 
B. Large forces at the soil line
Both can loosen the anchor when a load is applied.
(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/7f/69/YquJayhE_t.jpg) (https://imgbox.com/YquJayhE)
HUD gives a overview with drawings of suggested wind hold-down systems. Here is a screen grab, while reading the suggestion notes they mention a "metal stabilizing device" and the device is "rotated" for instruction clarity (my words) ... this prevents bending but it seems very dubious.
(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/f9/f5/TDSdK796_t.jpg) (https://imgbox.com/TDSdK796)
Of course, the device or concrete collar is not needed if you go directly to the floor rim. You may be temped to go just to the rim but it will be better to transfer the load all the way to the rafters. Code guys call this a "continuous load path".
I suggest this type of path as the parts are readily available (no I am not a Simpson dealer just familiar with their products, Mitek would also work)
-A Simpson HDU2 at the corner stud (connected to earth anchor)
-4" oc stud nailing to spread the load to the plywood, this then can spread to the top plate.
-Connecting the top plate to the rafters with a hurricane tie such as Simpson H 2.5A or a well-placed structural screw.
If needed all of these can be installed after framing is complete...
 
HUD article: https://inspectapedia.com/Manufactured_Homes/HUD-Mobile-Home-Tie-Down-Guidance.pdf
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Blessed on March 26, 2021, 11:27:20 AM
Hello CT.  I put a barel stove in my generator shed.  I've got trees.  Have you checked out fuel oil drip stoves recently  ? I'm thinking about putting one next to my cabin wood stove.  Run the stack into the wood stack.  I could get by on a drum a year when I get lazy n don't want to get up n feed the stove.  Or in summer.
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on March 31, 2021, 10:19:50 PM
Quote from: Blessed on March 26, 2021, 11:27:20 AM
... I could get by on a drum a year when I get lazy n don't want to get up n feed the stove.  Or in summer.

Our present shelter is a "insulated" Weatherport that isn't much more than a wall tent with bubble wrap.  The wood stove heats it up nicely but it wants to be fed every three hours.  A drip stove is starting to sound like a good idea!   [cool]
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: redside on April 20, 2021, 05:30:04 PM
It looks like you have some solid plans for moving forward with building this summer.  I just want to comment on your anchorage/tie down.  There is a good chance that the ground will raise due to expanding soil in the winter.  Its just a suggestion, but I would keep your anchorage in the first foot or so of the soil instead of using screw anchors several feet down.  There is a chance you will get some damage if the ground raises your cabin while your anchorage is below the freezing soil....something is going to bend and/or give unless your cable stretches.  If your going to float your cabin (which I agree is best given your circumstances) you need to float everything else.  The metal stabilizing device looked pretty slick and appears to be in the upper column of soil. 
Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: ChugiakTinkerer on April 21, 2021, 10:49:25 AM
Quote from: redside on April 20, 2021, 05:30:04 PM
It looks like you have some solid plans for moving forward with building this summer.  I just want to comment on your anchorage/tie down.  There is a good chance that the ground will raise due to expanding soil in the winter.  Its just a suggestion, but I would keep your anchorage in the first foot or so of the soil instead of using screw anchors several feet down.  There is a chance you will get some damage if the ground raises your cabin while your anchorage is below the freezing soil....something is going to bend and/or give unless your cable stretches.  If your going to float your cabin (which I agree is best given your circumstances) you need to float everything else.  The metal stabilizing device looked pretty slick and appears to be in the upper column of soil.

You raise a good point.  I don't really have a handle on how much the freezing soil expands, but the floating pad and cribbing is designed exactly to accommodate that.  Keeping water away from beneath the structure will reduce the amount of expansion.

I'll cogitate upon ways to have shallow anchorage.  But I think it will ultimately come down to picking which sort of damage is acceptable and mitigating that.  If I can adjust the cable/strap then that may be the best way to go.

Title: Re: 12x16 guest cabin at remote Alaska property
Post by: Blessed on April 22, 2021, 08:52:38 AM
   I've got a 7 kw duel fuel genny.  Probably close to that weight.  It's a wheels.  The shed has 2x6 on 16 center. Doesn't seem to be much of a problem as far as weight is concerned. Heck that little shed gets lots of weight.  Sitting on 6ea 8x16 concrete blocks. Just my experiences