Nail sequence

Started by firefox, October 24, 2007, 10:27:50 PM

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glenn kangiser

I just shoot anything that moves with a nailgun, Bruce.  We better wait and see what PEG does. ;D
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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Redoverfarm

Bruce

Try to shot all the nails on the wall cavity. If you try toe nailing occassionally one will not go right and that will be the one that will interfere with either the drywall sitting flush or the sheeting sitting flush.  If you get two or three into the header you should be Ok as you are only holding it in place. The jack stud will carry the weight.  As fir toe nailing the stud ends to the plates any sequence is ok as long and you do not split it out and make a smaller stud.  Most contractors will put 3 up through the stud from the plate. That is providing that you are building the wall an then erecting it. If it is a building in place stud 2 to one side and one to the other should be sufficent.


MountainDon

QuoteWhen toenailing the studs to the bottom plate, what is the prefered way? Two nails on each side?
nails on the ends?
If you mean nailing studs in place after the sill plate is in place, then 3 nails as redoverfarm said would do nicely. One between the other 2.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

MountainDon

QuoteI just shoot anything that moves
Your only resemblance to Dick Cheney.   ;D ;D
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

I don't generally get inebriated before I shoot though. ;D
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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firefox

Ok, you all can start laughing now. I finally got up the nerve to use the palm nailer that Glenn had recomended. I have no idea why I was so nervous about trying it. I can only imagine that
it goes back to my earlier attempts of using a hammer for something other than the ends of my fingers.

So I set everything up and predrilled everything  since this has to meet the ciity's overlords
decrees and I was afraid that if they saw the slightest sign of split wood, I would be taken out back and shot.

What an idiot I was, this palm nailer is the best thing since sliced bread! Thank you very much Glenn! In fact I am actually starting to like working with wood now,

Thanks everyone for the great advice on the nailing, it sure helps a lot.

Bruce

glenn-k

#31
Glad you like it, Bruce -- soon you will want the 60d adapter so you can drive 6" spikes with it. :)

Split wood -- do they care -- I'm not sure -- the main thing is that they get the fee and the taxes. ::)

firefox

That's for sure,
  I am paying taxes on a non existant project that they made me start 10 years ago and the
pulledthe rug out from under me. Long story and pretty ugly.
Thanks again Glenn,
And I probably will order one of those adapters if I can find someone I can order it from.
Bruce

glenn-k

If you got the Senco, I just ordered from a local Senco Nail and gun dealer.


glenn kangiser

#34
With a bit of practice you could do it like this guy and get those hard to reach nails from the ground. :)



Sent to me by a friend in Australia.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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Preston

Finally I have something to work towards AFTER my home is built  :)
The secret to being boring is to say everything.  --Voltaire

MountainDon

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

I can't nail that good when the hammer handle is in my hand. :-/
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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firefox

I guess if you are really good a making your own loads, you could really get a whole lot dong with a BMG.

And now for a more serious question...

When I was toenailing a nailer 2x4 between two studs it seems that even if I clamp the piece in place,
after I am finished nailing two nails in the top and two in the bottom, there is a tiny gap between the end of the 2x4 and the stud. Not big, but enought to let light thru. Any clues on what I am doing wrong?
Bruce
Bruce & Robbie
MVPA 23824


glenn kangiser

If using the nailer, keep in mind that the nailers don't draw things together as good ( per PEG ) as a hammer.  A few bangs with the hammer could help - assuming the board is cut long enough.  

Possibly you need to add a bit for the saw kerf or cut outside the line on the waste piece.  The kerf is about 1/8th inch.

Just ideas...
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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MountainDon

#40
Picture might help, if you can do that.  

These are horizontal sections in between vertical studs?
Somewhere be tween the top and bottom plates, but not touching the plates?
If so, do they fit tight before nailing?

Trying to develop a visual.....

And yep, nailers don't pull things together. They shoot the nail too fast for that. A space can remain between as the nail shoots through. A big hammer will set the power driven nail. Sometimes a nail set helps with that, if the nail is in an awkeard spot.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

Never force it.  

If necessary, get a bigger hammer. :-?

Yup -- as you suspected -- that was BS. :)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

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desdawg

Gee Don, I really like the new look. All dressed up and nowhere to go?
I have done so much with so little for so long that today I can do almost anything with absolutely nothing.

firefox

#43
That makes sense. I suspect that the nailer introduces a recoil or bounce that is causing this.
Like those gizmos that have the three balls hanging from strings that you use to demonstrate
the transfer of energy from one to the other.
At least I am not just going crazy.........well, about this, anyway.
Thanks,
Bruce
Bruce & Robbie
MVPA 23824

Redoverfarm

Bruce

Usually when you go to the opposite side and do it again it will close up the gap. But then you have the same thing on the other side.  What you are getting is that even though the stud seems solid when the nailer force is applied when nailing the stud gives on the side not being nailed.  For demo purposes just grab a stud and pull it. It will move. Same thing is happening when nailing. If you really want to eliminate it put a block between the adjacent stud this will minimize the movement of the stud you are nailing.  I usually start on one end and move to the other one block after another.  If they are nailed just above or below the previous it will stay a lot more solid.

Like stated before finish closing the gap if it bothers you with a hammer. Just remember that not all things in life fit that tight.


MountainDon

#45
QuoteGee Don, I really like the new look. All dressed up and nowhere to go?
Thanks. Halloween only.... changed back to the now boring animated mountains.

That stuff could be the ultimate sunscreen.  :-/
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

firefox

Yes, but it shure is nice when they do....

Yes I am a believer in the bigger hammer approach, well, sometimes.

I think I have a big block of lead some place which should help with the rebound.

The palm nailer is so soft that I'd forgotten about doing things like backup.

I suspect this will solve the problem, and if it doesn't, then out comes the bigger hammer.

I'll see if I can't start taking some pictures of stuff. Ok, you can laugh.
Bruce
Bruce & Robbie
MVPA 23824