Roofing for playhouse

[youngins]

I have been playing around with EasyRafter (Free version) and have come up with the following:





I am trying to use 2x4 stock. Does the configuration above look ok for what I am doing?

[glenn kangiser]

You are using the clipped rafter detail - no eave overhang? :-?  If so it looks right - I think.

[John Raabe]

You have a 2x ridge board it looks like. that will give you 4' from the centerline to the outside of the rafter. Is the rafter seat what you want (3.5" assumed)?

You will block out a fascia I assume.

This is actually easier to do sometimes with a chalkline or pencil and a framing square on the deck.

[MountainDon]

I would think that at least a little overhang would be a good idea.Keep the rain from running off the roof and directly down the wall.  YMMV

[youngins]

I have to admit that trying to figure our the rafter is a bit intimidating.

I am just looking for a really easy gable roof solution. I figured using clipped rafters would give me less to mess up

[glenn kangiser]

With the clipped rafters you could just gutter the front and back as in the illustration for the little house.

[PEG688]

 Do a over hang Chris , the birds mouth cut is just a plumb cut where your seat cut is as you show it. Let the rafter tails run wide , install your rafters ,  then decide how long you want then , mark the end two rafters with a plumb cut , snap a line to connect the two marks , cut tails install facia , repete on the other side . Simple , you can do er big guy  

  Lay it out on a rafter,  take a photo of each end ( the layout deteails , I'll check it out before you cut.  You'll cut one pair , check the fit on the shed , remember to reduce each side  for  1/2 the thickness of the ridge after the dry run set. Check the fit at both ends , incase your buildings not the same exact size on each end.  

When you dry fit them the ridge cuts should meet all the way down the cut , the seat cut should sit flat and the plumb cut at the birds mouth should be touching either your framing (top plate ) or your wall sheathing  IF you ran it all the way to the very top of your top plate .

Ridge cuts .

   


Tails run wild

 

 G/L PEG

[youngins]

In Wagner's framing book - he talks about "Stepping Off the Length" (p. 127)

lay the (framing) square on the left end on the stock. Hold the square's tongue in (my) left hand and its blade in (my) right. Pivot the square until the edge of the stock near you aligns with the unit rise mark (ie on the outside of the tongue and the 12-inch mark on the outside of the blade. Mark along the outside edge of the tongue for the ridge plum line.

The ridge plum line should be within an inch or so of the end of the stock, not precisely at the end-corner - correct?

[PEG688]

Yes it makes it easier to layout if you have the lil extra .

I use square buttons but if you work carefully you can get by without them .

Ridge cut ,  8 / 12



 Ridge reduction marks,






Seat cut  ,   I'd only cut out a 1 1/2" deep birds mouth on a 2x4 if you go to a 3 1/2" bottom seat cut it leaves to little 2x4 left to get a strong enought rafter tail .

 


 
Step off  :::: 4 steps , IF your building is 8 feet wide , 1/2 the run , remember to figure in your wall sheathing , IF it's up high enought to engage the birds mouth plumb cut.  


 




 Ok go lay it out  

[youngins]

Thanks PEG - that makes it easier.

Family function tomorrow - Will get to it Sunday...hopefully.

Thanks again

Chris

[PEG688]

Thanks PEG - that makes it easier.

Family function tomorrow - Will get to it Sunday...hopefully.

Thanks again

Chris

 

Your welcome , nice computer work BTW 8-)

G/L PEG

[glenn kangiser]

Great tutorial, PEG.  It was even clear to me.

[peg_688]

Great tutorial, PEG.  It was even clear to me.

You sure ? There's a test at Chris's place tomorrow   Well maybe depends on if Chris can free up the time  

[glenn-k]

You bringing the beer?  Yup -- I'm pretty sure. :-?

[youngins]

Looks like I will need to make a lumber run for 10 2x4x10 for rafter stock, 1 2x4x12 for ridge stock, plus anything else I can think of between now and then....

[hobbiest]

save yourself a couple of bills, and use a 2x6 ridge.  Then use the $5 you saved to treat yourself to an italian sausage sandwich!  Ok, maybe they don't have those out there.

[peg_688]

save yourself a couple of bills, and use a 2x6 ridge.  

Then use the $5 you saved to treat yourself to an italian sausage sandwich!  

HUh ?? I think he's planning on 2x4 ridge .

On that lil building I'd use a 1x6 it will be more than enought and save that few bucks .

Either way Chris a  5 1/2 " wide piece will be better than  3 1/2" , remember when you cut that 8/12 pitch cut the ridge cut will be "longer" on that long angle , so you'll get more purchase/ bearing with the 5 1/2" ridge board.

Ittalian samich ya say  :-/ :-? not in Texa$$ no way

[youngins]

So my shopping list would include:
1          1x2 window (gable-end window)
1          1x6x16 (ridge stock)
3          2x4x12 (gable-end stock)
10        2x4x10 (rafter stock)
44ft      drip edge
134ft     3' tar paper (for roof and structure wrap)
1 box    tar paper fasteners
4          4x8 3/8" or 7/16" plywood panels (roof sheathing)

[hobbiest]

Looks like I will need to make a lumber run for 10 2x4x10 for rafter stock, 1 2x4x12 for ridge stock, plus anything else I can think of between now and then....

Righti-o, misread it to say 2x12.  Could only think of one reason use, but didn't seem very logical.  Our house in OR, was built in 1927, and had no ridge at all, just mitered rafters nailed together, braced laterally by the skip sheeting.  Ah the days of nice, OLD growth fir huh.  A friend of ours had a house in TN, that was framed with red heart pine.  Another friend, has a friend in upstate NY with his own sawmill.  Supposedly, this guy has framed multiple houses with oak studs!  Sorry for the thread drift.

[glenn-k]

Drift is good-- I have always wondered about people using hardwood to build with.  

[peg_688]

Timber framers do it all the time . Hickory , R. Oak , old days Chestnut was a used  timber frame barn wood .


 And Chris your really asking about framing for a roof structure , not roofing that would really be comp., metal ,  wood shingles / shakes etc .

But we got yer point / question and we are a drifty bunch  

[glenn-k]

Makes me wanna frame with driftwood.

[peg_688]

Makes me wanna frame with driftwood.

Yer just drifty is all   Most of it's half rotten.

[glenn-k]

But ... that means it's half good.

[peg_688]

But ... that means it's half good.

Such optimism It would be half arsed as well eh