window framing mistake.....?

[Kris]

i have a window question...

i framed in the following window and i used 2x6's doubled up as a header and a 2x4 under that.. what i think my mistake was that the header should be resting on the vertical 2x4's not pinched between them..

the window i will be using has a wood frame around it.. an old boxed window..

is this a mistake that needs correcting,,or will it still work?......i left shim room for the window so it doesnt sit to tight.....

[MountainDon]

New, super energy efficient" building practices, use no jack studs. They use metal brackets designed for header support.  jan nikolajsen is using them on his new home build. Scroll down to the 4th image. You could add them instead of tearing things apart. I'm not sure of how much load they can carry, or the spans they are rated for.    The technique makes for less thermal bridging. It may or may not be approved by all local codes. Check on that if applicable.

Building Science will have some info on them and/or the technique.  Could also try Simpson Strongtie.  



Look for HH Header Hanger

[PEG688]

 You're correct you need a trimmer stud under each end of the header. Which also means  your header is now to short IF the RO (Rough Opening) is the right size as it sits.   Your head needs to be 3" longer than you RO , generally , there are conditions that change that , such as a RO  8' or wider you should use two trimmers on each side so a total of 3 " per side , 6" total on openings 8' or wider.

Of course there are other exceptions as well.


   

[PEG688]

New, super energy efficient" building practices, use no jack studs. They use metal brackets designed for header support.  jan nikolajsen is using them on his new home build. Scroll down to the 4th image. You could add them instead of tearing things apart. I'm not sure of how much load they can carry, or the spans they are rated for.   The technique makes for less thermal bridging. It may or may not be approved by all local codes. Check on that if applicable.

  New super energy efficient building practices are bunk. But sure there is ALWAYS another way.  Generally not what we do here on Counrty Plans.  But sure he could maybe do it that way , it MIGHT work out OK. 

[MountainDon]

Not a product endorsement. Only product information.    





.... so I ask myself, "Don what would you do yourself?

... I might be giving the PC reciprocating saw some exercise and using the unusable pieces for blocking or whatever.

....OR, since we do hang floor joists from hangers in many applications, why not use the metal brackets?  Depends on expected loads. The Simpson page has load info.

HMMmmmmmmmmm

I knew PEG would say bunk when he saw that suggestion.      Good to see ya' Paul

[texasgun]

Looks like an easy fix with a sawsall just cut your inner studs to make them trimmers knock out your header and build a wider one I have done similar things its easier to just fix it right and go on.

[davidj]

The HH4 that Mtn Don mentions handles at least 855lb if you nail it per the Simpson instructions.   Looks like your header is about 6ft and your roof span is somewhere around 14ft, so each side of the header is holding 6ft/2*14ft/2=3ftx7ft=21 sq ft.  With 30lb live load and 10lb dead load on the roof, thats 40psfx21 sq ft=840lb.  So with not much snow and a 14ft span the HH4 should work.  That's not to say your inspector will agree...

[Kris]

i will be going with the hh hanger this time around,,and then next time, just do it correct......

the span is 5ft...so i think this will work out fine.......

thanks for all the advice...

[NM_Shooter]

I'd pull it and fix the trimmers / header just to be safe, as it is an easy and cheap fix now with a sawzall, and could be costly to fix if those brackets fail.  But I am a paranoid sort of person too.  I tend to want to overdo everything. 

If you do use the brackets, maybe keep the window shimming such that it has plenty of clearance for the header.  Any settling and you are hosed.