Setting bracket in concrete for deck post

[scottieslg]

I'm planning on pouring my concrete for the posts for my deck.  I've got 12"x4' sonotube that I will be burying approx 36" in the ground and filling with concrete.

I have the following bracket that I will be using to attach my 6x6 post to:



My question is, at what point do I actually embed the bracket into the concrete and will it stay on it's own or do I need to build a jig of sorts to keep it steady until the concrete dries sufficiently?

[Redoverfarm]

The biggest problem is setting them at the exact location.  With a jig you will have to fill the tube while missing the bracket.  I would pre-determine exactly where it should be and make a makeshift jig to use after the concrete is within 6-8" of the top.  I found that wooden dowel rods work well.  Just drill the tubes to the correct diameter of the dowels and bracket holes at the correct location.  When you are ready to set the bracket just slide the dowels through the side of the sonotubes and through the bracket and then finish filling the tubes.  But as I said the location is key.  Correct heigth and alignment.

[scottieslg]

So, if I understand what you are saying, I'd dig a hole approx 18" in diameter, insert my sonotube, get it level then backfill the sonotube leaving 8-10" exposed and enough room in the dirt to work around installing a dowel.

I would then drill a couple of holes in the sonotube and the bracket.  Do I want the base of the bracket to rest right on the concrete, or a 1/4" or so above it?

Next, pour the concrete into the sonotube up to the point where I need to install the bracket.  Place the bracket and dowel, then finish filling around the bracket.  Do you typically smooth the top of this concrete, or just leave it rough since nobody will really see it anyways?

Is this right?

How long should I wait for the concrete to dry before I put my posts on?  Also, do I need to keep a wet towel over my concrete?  Our weather is going to be in the mid 70's for the next while.

[Redoverfarm]

So, if I understand what you are saying, I'd dig a hole approx 18" in diameter, insert my sonotube, get it level then backfill the sonotube leaving 8-10" exposed and enough room in the dirt to work around installing a dowel.

Typically a portion of the tube/concrete is above grade so you don't need to work in the dirt. It needs to be above grade so water will not sit around the bracket and post.

I would then drill a couple of holes in the sonotube and the bracket.  Do I want the base of the bracket to rest right on the concrete, or a 1/4" or so above it?

They are designed to sit on the concrete.  That is the purpose of the plate to keep it atop the concrete and not sink.

Next, pour the concrete into the sonotube up to the point where I need to install the bracket.  Place the bracket and dowel, then finish filling around the bracket.  Do you typically smooth the top of this concrete, or just leave it rough since nobody will really see it anyways?

Just level it out

Is this right?

How long should I wait for the concrete to dry before I put my posts on?  Also, do I need to keep a wet towel over my concrete?  Our weather is going to be in the mid 70's for the next while.

If you can retard the curing it will be stronger in the long run.  Something as simple as a garbage bag slipped over it will keep the moisture in.  I wouldn't do anything sooner than 48-72 hours.  You would hate for it to bust out.

Again I stress the proper alignment and heigth.  Nothing worse than starting and see that one of the brackets is out of alignment and the post are not plumb or even worse the post will not meet on the beams.

[flyingvan]

String is your friend here...If you complete the two on the ends first and let them set a bit, you can pull some of that neon construction string tight between them and use it as a guide to get the in between ones exactly in line

[cholland]

I wet set my brackets. Five of them. Next time I will make some type of jig.
I did mine with the rest of the foundation pour so there was a lot going on. When I got to setting the brackets, the last one was tough cause the cement had really started to set by then.
String is your friend. Having them lined up is most important. If not critical. Making sure they are level is also pretty important. If you are using posts that you can cut to length, then height is not such a big deal. If you are going to set a beam in the brackets, then having the same height it much easier. You can always use blocks or shims, but its time consuming and never looks good.

[firefox]

Maybe get some long 4x4s and jury rig them solidly in place so that they pass thru the
brackets parallel and level to the ground. Use the nail hole in the bracket  to secure them in place
as you pour the last part of the pour. This way you know everything will line up when you mount the posts.

[Don_P]

Or, think about a treated wood foundation, save some effort, money, and get rid of the hinge. Pour a  footing 8-12" thick, I usually go ~2' square.  Use .60 ground contact 6x6's. Anchor them to the concrete with hammer drill and angles for horizontal. Nail a pair of 18" treated 2x4's to 2 faces just above the footing for uplift. Backfill. You have to be close to the center of the footing but there is more adjustment and it is a better, 1 piece, column.

[Redoverfarm]

Another alternative would be to use mock up beams attached to the brackets and rested on the top of the sonotubes.  I would put the tube heigth just a fraction above the resting plate.  Use a string line to get the proper alignment and mark the top and side of each tube with a marker where that string line crosses the tubes.  Once you pour the concrete to the level that you need to put your brackets in then all you have to do is place the bracket w/mock up beams on top of the tube aligned with the predetermined marks.  The mock up beams can just be a 2X6 (16-18" long) laid on the flat which will essentially the same width of the 6X6. Just use deck screws to attach the mock up beams to the bracket.  Once the concrete is cured just remove the mock up beams.

You might have to determine the offset of the mid resting plate to the top of your tubes to get the right elevation. Any excess tube can be cut off later with a sawzall or similar saw.  If you measure accurately enough you may not have to remove any of the tube and the plate heigth will be the same as the top of your sonotube. 

Let us know how it turns out.

[PEG688]

It's best if you figure out a way to place the brackets before you start your pour , be inventive , there's generally  a way to get the placement right the first time.

This looks complicated but really at som point you have to layout the locations , time spent getting it right will save hours of fixing it later.




 
















A different situation , same general idea.

 

[PEG688]

[PEG688]

The options are endless , like I said be creative.

 

[firefox]

Wow, now that is some beautiful work and terrific examples of how to do it right!
Bruce

[Redoverfarm]

Wow, now that is some beautiful work and terrific examples of how to do it right!
Bruce

Yep always easier when you are spending someone else's money.  

[firefox]

I absolutely agree. I have always had to improvise and try to make things work with
stuff I have scrounged, like pallets that were discarded, etc. but it's nice to see what
works so you can improvise your own jigs.
Bruce

[scottieslg]

Thanks, all, for your great advice!