Don't think a Volkswagen camper and two Subarus are going to do what we need while building. One of the subies has about 250,000 miles and needs rear end work , so pickup time is here. We are probably going to have to offload deliveries at the end of our quarter mile road. It's only narrow as it goes into our property, but there's no place to turn around!
So---
Diesel? It costs about 60 cents more per gallon and is readily available.
Any special tires, etc. for mountain roads?
Stick or automatic?
It would have to have a long bed.
I've seen cheap trucks from the early 90's, like GMC's and Fords. Need something with available parts.
The last truck we owned (35 years ago) was a 1965 Ford F250. It had 3 on the column (hated it) and was so hard to steer with the ultrawide tires that I only drove it a coupla times. So, no antiques please. Pure work truck is what I have in mind.
Not even a question. Dodge with Cummins Diesel. Usually over 20 mpg full size. Easy to work on - tons of room under the hood - not so cramped you can't work on it like the others. Not generally a favorite of Ford and Chevy people until they get one, so prices are usually low.
Watch for the 53 block around 94 to 2000 year model. It can crack. Number in the casting either side front of block right above the pan - about 1/2 inch numbers or so- not the same place on all. If it gets down to that I can give you more links to info.
Free help online for any repair. A good automatic is as good as a stick. Maybe a bit less mileage depending how you drive. Pre 94 still good but less HP. 94/02 24 valve HP easily upgraded a bit with a chip, exhaust and intake air filter change - part or all. Much more with more work.
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/index.php
Wow! You just saved me alot of work. [cool]
I used to be a Dodge mechanic and have the book on this so I can help too. The Fords and Chevy's are way too crowded to work on.
My neighbor was a Ford man -just got a Dodge 1Ton Dually with a Cummins 4x4 under 10K. He gets over 20 mpg. Now he kicks himself for not doing it earlier. Mine 1ton dually 4x4 w/flat bed was 15995 I think. Better deals out there though. Cummins should be good for 500,000 to 1,000,000 miles with care before OH.
So what model would that be? 2500 or 3500? Or something else? I've been shopping ever since you posted here.
1 ton is 3500 in single or dual rear wheels but 3/4 tons are 2500s and as good if you don't need duals on the rear- they need the heavy frame for the Cummins. They don't have a Cummins in a 1/2 ton - frame is not strong enough.
Be sure to add a fuel pressure gauge to a 24 valve in a 94 to 02. Low boost pressure can take out the main injection pump. Details later if you need them.
Slightly --- heh modified Cummins - 516 HP
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mz2Oh_DGo7M
Cool. I am now getting car hauling quotes to see if we should buy it here or there, 3,000 miles away. Much more selection in a big city.
Thanks so much, Glenn.
My extreme pleasure... [crz]
Be sure if buying away you have them certify that it does not have the 53 block - mine broke and had to be replaced - by me of course but I still recommend the Cummins - it was a Brazil casting problem.
You might check out some of the goverment surplus Forrest Service, Soil Conversation or Department of Transportation. They have regular auctions. Sometimes you can catch a really good one for 1/3 of the street sale value. Most have inspection times prior to the sales. Even if you have to sink a couple hundred in some repairs you can still be ahead of the game.
As for standard vs. auto I go for the standard. If you are pulling trailers, decending grades you can reduce the break wear considerably. I especially like it in snow. But I am a Ford person hooked on Powerstroke. 7.3L. Stay away from the above 6L to the 7.3 had alot of problems. I understand the new 6L is OK but not the price for me.
The automatic can have an exhaust brake added - with a shift mod for the auto trans to lockup the torque converter. A note - all factory torque converters are inadequate for heavy work no matter what brand truck. An aftermarket torque converter and shift kit such as a DTT and Suncoast valve body are pretty necessary to make them hold up heavy and long.
There are other brands.
I have lots of friends with many problems with the various Fords leaking diesel in impossible to get at places under the turbo etc. Everything is put in with a shoe horn so working on it gets to be a major problem if you want to DIY. It is a solid mass of parts under the hood. I understand you have ot remove the cab to change the engine on the new ones. I haven't verified this as I don't work on them.
I don't know how Ford mileage is. I know Ford people like them and stick to them but many don't try to do much of their own work on them. Ease of repair has always been the reason to own a Cummins.
I don't like autos for a work truck usually but the Getrag stick they put behind some of the Cummins were plain junk!
I have a 97 half ton Dodge with a 318, auto. and at just over 200,000 It has had only brakes and a water pump, I have worked harder than it would like but it has held up well. It's more like a car with a big leaky trunk ::)
I never was a fan of Desto's as a kid but now I wouldn't even consider any other truck but a Cummins powered Dodge. ;D
Yup - some of the Getrags had some problems but mine only got a broken shift lever on my 92 with a Cummins. I put a 3/4 deep socket with a 12" extension over the broken stub and I think the buddy I gave it to is still driving it that way. Gearshift was kicking around under the seat somewhere.
I put a DeSoto Hemi in a 50 something International 3/4 ton. Twisted the bell housing in half once. I was a show off. d*
Got my first shipping quote (3,000 miles) $1,740. Yikes! More than I thought. How fast can you say "road trip?"
In regards to Manner of shift. You will get better mileage out of a standard than an auto especially in Ford. Can't say about Dodge no one has ever given me one.
I don't mind a stick, and it would probably do better in the mountains and maybe for towing. We have a 60's vintage 17' Shasta Aeroflyte that needs to accompany us to the 70 miles of national park beaches on the Washington coast.
They should be all over if you look a bit but East Coast may have salt damage.
Check this out... no promises
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/classifieds/showcat.php/cat/19
Good link. After I register on the site this is WAY better than Auto Trader.
Sorry, John - my buddy is on disability and has been setting me up with deals since 1976 so I help him out too.
He gives me engines - generators -gun holster- set me up with a TD15 w/blade to trade for my old dump truck straight across-Mike's project- etc - We take care of our own.....and we're not inbred either. [crz]
It's the little things.... d*
You are right about the stick - probably a bit better mileage when driven right and no automatic problems or upgrades needed. Exhaust brake is good with them too as the Diesels don't have the compression braking as good as the gas engines -
Quote from: CREATIVE1 on November 16, 2008, 04:33:18 PM
Good link. After I register on the site this is WAY better than Auto Trader.
and free too. One good thing about this site is the guys there generally know a lot about their truck -- that is where I get my help if needed. You can do your own repairs with a code reader and help of this site.
chevy ford, auto trans, 4wd, long bed or 6.5, extended cab if you can, and v-8 gas. this will do anything you want to do and pull a fairly heavy trailer.
Quote from: glenn kangiser on November 16, 2008, 04:37:46 PM
Sorry, John - my buddy is on disability and has been setting me up with deals since 1976 so I help him out too.
He gives me engines - generators -gun holster- set me up with a TD15 w/blade to trade for my old dump truck straight across-Mike's project- etc - We take care of our own.....and we're not inbred either. [crz]
It's the little things.... d*
You are right about the stick - probably a bit better mileage when driven right and no automatic problems or upgrades needed. Exhaust brake is good with them too as the Diesels don't have the compression braking as good as the gas engines -
No insult taken. I guess it is what you get , how it holds out and the service you get for your money. Pros & cons on each. We're not either just our selction is narrower . Unlike CA if they are closely related they are usually the opposite sex as near as we can tell. ;D
Gotta admit there are problems with the choices out here. Some haven't figured out the gene pool bit yet....
Quote from: CREATIVE1 on November 16, 2008, 01:16:08 PM
....so pickup time is here.
You didn't say if this is to be a permanent addition or only needed/wanted for the construction stage. I ask because it seems that until now you have be truckless and not minded. ???
Unless I was pulling heavy heavy loads on mountain roads very frequently, over medium to long distances, I personally would not buy a diesel anymore.
I am a complete fan of automatic transmissions. An automatic fitted with a good after market oil cooler is very dependable. They are also easier to start moving on uphill slopes with heavy loads.
I prefer 4WD if there are any mud/dirt/gravel roads involved. The hill up to our mountain cabin is sometimes quite iffy if you only have 2WD... like right now with snow cover on it. Or spring with mud on it.
I don't think there's much difference between makes; one can disappoint you as readily as the other. Luck of the draw on many things, IMO.
Tires... Mud treads if there is mud. If not a good all terrain like my BFG A/T's. I used to have M/T's but they can wear faster if used on the highway a lot and don't perform (grip) as well on rain slick roads.
IMO, a trailer is necessary. It's hard to haul 12 ft or 16 ft material in a pickup, long bed or not.
OR, make a place for the delivery trucks to turn around and save the trouble of a truck and a trailer. ;D The local lumber dealer rolloff truck has no trouble hauling up to our cabin site as long as the road is not muddy or snow covered.
The above opinions are mine and may not be everyone else's cup of tea. ;)
To answer a couple of your questions:
We may or may not keep the truck. We don't need in in Florida, but on our property, up a gravel road with snow in the winter, it might really come in handy. If our old Subaru is on the way out, it's more likely that we'd keep it.
4WD is probably a smart move too.
gravel, snow = 4WD ;D
I have an '02 F250 crew cab, short bed diesel that I like a lot. I initially shopped for Dodge's, but in '02 when I was buying, they didn't have a four door crew cab 3/4 ton available. I also read that while the drivetrain was good, the frame and the body were not.
We previously had a '97 suburban that we bought new that had absolutely huge problems from day one. The folks at Chevy refused to assist, so we basically now have an issue with providing any $$$ to GM at all.
My F250 now has 140k on it and is still running good. The front suspension is needing some love though, as with all the rock roads I've been driving, I suspect that I have worn something out.
The 15 quart oil change does get old fast.
I suspect that If I were shopping now, I would stick to gas though, as it is so much cheaper.
Good luck!
I was looking at diesel because the engines tend to last longer, and I'm looking at a truck that's older and has some miles on it. Fuel costs 20 - 25% more, but may be offset by better mileage and longer engine life. Plus, you may be able to use biofuels.
By the way, how does 4 wheel drive affect mileage on a pickup?
4wd=-1or2. depends on how you drive. for a newbie buying his first P.U. i would stay w/gas and auto. trailer is a high priority and autos pull them easier in most circumstances. you are going to have to put on alot of miles to get savings from a diesel to compensate for costs. i agree with M.don on lack of quality in body and incidentals w/dodge. i can get an average of 18 mpg if i drive like a grandpa w/an egg between my foot and gas pedal(16 more likely)2006 F150, 4WD, auto, 5.4 V-8, towing package. BTW, you most likely will not ever be w/o a truck again once you get your first one. jus' sumpin' 'bout dem. they are very useful tools. glen and some of the other forumites are VERY experienced truck owners and dealing w/diesel eccentricities for them is like a walk in the park. you aren't there yet IMHO. roll the dice and make your choice.
dan
I have to echo the sentiments for the Cummins powered Dodge's. If a beater work truck pre 96 or 97. For a nicer interior and fluffy options (I like fluffy options) 2003 and newer. I wouldn't buy a truck (outside of an oldie) without 4x4 w/manual trans. Just less problems overall and I like 4x4's.
I owned a 93 Ford F250 4x4 5 speed manual diesel w/250+ miles on it a while back named Bob, and Bob was a good old boy. Not a speck of rust which was amazing and it ran great (20+ @ about 60-64 on cruise with the front wheels locked out) everything worked. I greatly regret selling Bob in a moment of "why do I have this if I am not using it?". God, I am an a$$head sometimes.
-------------------------------
Folks are right about the lack of underhood room to mess with stuff. I had 2 problems with it: the return lines off the injectors started leaking (simple 2 beer fix) and the serpentine belt tensioner broke, exploded really... The tensioned explosion dented but did not hole the radiator and when the serp belt broke it grabbed the positive cable from the batt to the starter broke it off and waved it around under the hood arcing it on all kinds of stuff that don't want electrons hitting them. Of course the water pump went out with out the belt as did the power steering. When I got it home a few minutes later I asessed the damage and called about a new battery cable. I choked on my coffee at the price and galvanized in to action (always wanted to say that) and as I didn't have a torch or soldering iron I whipped out (always wanted to say that too, you get a 2fer!) my MSR pocket rocket ultralight camping stove, wrenches, solder and a bottle of Jack Daniels as this was an advanced repair and this IS AArghkansas. I removed the spiders nest that is the battery cable on a 1993 ford diesel 2 battery battery cable and stripped the ends as well as squaring the ends with a handy dandy set of side cutters.
After a bracing bout of wrestling with uncle jack, I attached the fuel bottle to the little marvel of a stove and fired it up. It hissed a very satisfying hiss of pretty blue flame... Then I studied my problem... And wrestled with jack a time or 2 more.
The little lightbulb in a cloud over my fat head went off and I said Ureka (the truck did) and I hunted with fervor through my scrap heap/truck tool box that was conveniently not mounted in the truck and found a piece of copper tube that was but a bit bigger than the diameter of the now stripped cable.
I slid 1 end of the severed cable into the copper tube and beat the spit out of it with my ever present Ironworking beater pinching the tube tightly around the cable and held the mangled cable over the stove/pseudo torch and fed in an obscene amount of fluxcore solder to affix the cable and tube as one. While it cooled, I entered another long, technical negotiation with Uncle Jack and then struggled with the other end of the cable and trying to get it into the copper tubes other end. Success finally achieved, I stoked the little pocket rocket once again and used another bail of solder to fill the rest of the tube and when I thought it was good I added a bit more and beat the ever loving crap out of it with surgical precision with the aforementioned (there is another one I always wanted to use) beater, marveling at the still molten solder as it splattered in a graceful arc through the air gently touching down, soft as a feather on my unprotected legs...
Darn I said (actually I said something else, many times and many different ways) as I launched from my sitting position kicking over the stove and starting only a small lawn fire.
Fire out, blisters raised I admired the repaired cable and grinned the selfsatisfied grin that only a retard like myself can grin. After a few minutes of picking up the mess and dressing wounds I replaced the cable assemby after binding the colorcasehardned looking copper tube with electrical tape... Wow what a great fix, I guess you had to be there. A master mechanic move I tell you.
Now I just had to replace the tensioner assembly, but that is a different ordeal...
---------------------------
The engine in the ford was an international and I swear it was a school bus engine. It sounded exactly like a bus when accelerating... Pretty cool actually.
Though I prefer the Cummins engine the early F250 diesels were simple and strong, no turbo's, no electronics no nothing at all. I liked that. Easy (relative term) to work on cheap enough parts and you can fix stuff with a camp stove, electrical tape and a big honking hammer.
Be safe
Patty
Quote from: CREATIVE1 on November 17, 2008, 07:47:14 AM
By the way, how does 4 wheel drive affect mileage on a pickup?
4WD = fewer MPG, unless the front end has locking hubs and you run with them unlocked all the time. That's because of the extra friction with the front end parts turning all the time, even if you are not transmitting power to the front axle. Even with locking hubs there will be a theoretical MPG loss because of the extra weight of the front end being hauled around.
That was a beauty, Patty. I might add that it is possible to put the copper tube over the cable to make a new end. Simply smash it onto the end of the cut back and stripped cable with your spud Crescent, damaging the mechanism as you hammer, then after flat get a drill.
Starting to drill the hole will work pretty good if the drill is not too dull. If the drill is too dull the drilling will generate plenty of friction and you will likely set something on fire or burn yourself.
When you finally get the drill to go through the copper and wire, the flutes on the drill should grab the sides of the copper hole, violently jerking it off of the inner fender all the way to the starter solenoid, nearly breaking your finger and giving you a blood blister, cut pinky and twisting your wrist in the process.
Just thought you might be able to use that helpful idea sometime. [crz]
I suggest that the Cummins is still the easiest to work on of any of the diesel engines in any truck. Priming after running out of diesel is different than a gas engine but anyone can learn it. Just keep it above 1/4 tank if possible and there will never be a problem. My neighbors Ford PS has been broke down more than running and he is a mechanic and a good one. He bought a beauty used 02 Dodge while he tries to get the Ford fixed and sell it. He was not previously a Dodge man.
In my observation, the frames and bodies of the Dodges stay together as well as any of the brands, but many seem to blame the deterioration problems of the truck on their bad driving, drinking and driving, four wheeling, etc. :)
I'm going to put my two cents worth in hear d*
If you like working on stuff buy a Dodge,Chevy or Ford I myself have enough things to do.
So I use toyota. Have friends that own the full sizes but I like my little 04 tacoma V-6, 4X4, 3/4 ton, 25 miles gal.
90,000 miles and have never done anything to it but change the fluids and tires.
I use a trailer a lot for the bigger stuff.
No matter what you buy make sure it is four wheel drive you will need it sooner or later.
O.K. let the bashings begin,W
I guess I could put a dependable Toyota in the back of my Dodge for a spare. d* :)
Last shipping quote I got was $1,070. Much better.
Good deal. :)
Quote from: glenn kangiser on November 17, 2008, 12:54:03 PM
I guess I could put a dependable Toyota in the back of my Dodge for a spare. d* :)
You would have to give me more tools to make room [cool]
I'll have to think about that one--- maybe a tow bar? hmm
WHAT!!! TOYOTA... HOW DARE YOU WHITLOCK. did you ever see that you tube video where they run a ford, chevy and toyota full size P.U. down a series of good size rumble strips? the toyota almost tears itself apart. chevy faired better and ford acted like it was smooth pavement. there is a reason why it is the worlds best selling vehicle for what, 21 years in a row. now there's no denying toyota sets the standard in cars but not trucks and W., if you ever mention a toyota P.U. again i am going to send the ford truck fairy to your house while you are sleeping and flatten your tires(i think he lives in san francisco). [shocked]
oh and btw mr. glen. i'll have you know i never go off roading while i drink and drive(unless i am trying to get out of the ditch i just ran into). :-[
Quote from: apaknad on November 17, 2008, 02:53:46 PM
WHAT!!! TOYOTA... HOW DARE YOU WHITLOCK. did you ever see that you tube video where they run a ford, chevy and toyota full size P.U. down a series of good size rumble strips? the toyota almost tears itself apart. chevy faired better and ford acted like it was smooth pavement. there is a reason why it is the worlds best selling vehicle for what, 21 years in a row. now there's no denying toyota sets the standard in cars but not trucks and W., if you ever mention a toyota P.U. again i am going to send the ford truck fairy to your house while you are sleeping and flatten your tires(i think he lives in san francisco). [shocked]
I geuss you haven't seen the Toyota truck commercials [cool]
Ford truck has fairies :-\You said it not me rofl
Nuff said
Go with an automatic with a cooler. If it is to be used for towing/hauling you don't have to worry about the clutch.
I don't know how much hauling you are going to do, but if it is down only a 1/4 mile road and f150 should do you fine. I know many contractors that get by with a 6 cylinder F150 . You can pick them up for a song too. I have found good ones under 150,000 miles for under $1200. They are easy to fix, and easy to get parts and not to bad on gas. A 4wd model will probably cost more, but you are definitely going to get the most bang for your buck. If it is going to be a third vehicle and only used for the construction and snow, don't worry about the mileage.
If you were a construction worker or major contractor or hauled big loads long distances a beefier truck would be better, but a whole lot more expensive
Just my 2 pennies
Quote from: apaknad on November 17, 2008, 02:55:55 PM
oh and btw mr. glen. i'll have you know i never go off roading while i drink and drive(unless i am trying to get out of the ditch i just ran into). :-[
You are up there in the flat land, Dan. You don't need a drink before you go off roading there. Here you do. [crz]
...and for you GM fans, I just pulled Whitlocks GMC up the hill backwards with the brakes on. He soon released them but I really couldn't tell the difference. d*
It's on now >:(. I'm going to get her running and then we will have to have a pull off.
And the e-brake was only on when you were pulling me down hill d*
My little 1942-6 bangger 270 against your big bad turbo diesel [cool]
(https://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq278/Minermatt/cckwa2.jpg)
Can you drive well while backing up? [rofl2]
Better get those mirrors fixed. rofl
I told ya, If I lost you over the hill, no problem as long as the chain held...... I'd just drag you back up.... [crz]
What I find fascinating is the angle of the chimney on the building behind it. ;D
Quote from: Whitlock on November 17, 2008, 12:37:55 PM
I'm going to put my two cents worth in hear d*
If you like working on stuff buy a Dodge,Chevy or Ford I myself have enough things to do.
So I use toyota. Have friends that own the full sizes but I like my little 04 tacoma V-6, 4X4, 3/4 ton, 25 miles gal.
90,000 miles and have never done anything to it but change the fluids and tires.
I use a trailer a lot for the bigger stuff.
No matter what you buy make sure it is four wheel drive you will need it sooner or later.
O.K. let the bashings begin,W
If Toyota sold a diesel p/u in the U.S. I would have bought one!
I have a '97 4Runner that looks like hell, but runs unbelievably great. 140k miles and still tight. No major problems in the 9 years that we have owned it. One alternator, a couple of batteries, that was it.
Quote from: MountainDon on November 18, 2008, 12:08:01 AM
What I find fascinating is the angle of the chimney on the building behind it. ;D
Everybody liked that one Don Took the wood stove out and I let it hang were it ended up.
I don't know how it didn't leak ???
Ok Ill stay Objective here....... Ford, Gm, Or Dodge will handle the Work Ya call for Id Go gas Unless you consider goin Bio Later down the road.
STick to an Automatic with a good aftermarket cooler. Big reason for this Its called 3 footing If you arent real familiar with off roading in slick conditions Or steep terrain with a stick youll Be trien to hit the clutch, break and throttle at the same time automatic Prevents this action.
As for tires Ya down Have to get real agressive Stay away from extra wife tires My favorite is a 10.50 to a 12 inch wide tire for Snow and Mud a self cleaning tread is a must but any good Mud and snow will work
Now if ya wanna Get DOWN and DIRTY throw the Big 3 Out DONT even Consider a Jeep Go with TOYOTA
(https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a350/NVWolfer/047.jpg)
(https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a350/NVWolfer/schmidt21.jpg)
(https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a350/NVWolfer/dunbar020.jpg)
Impressive articulation, Wolfer. But at the point reached by those Toyotas it does not matter what you began with, IMO. They are like comparing a NASCAR Ford to a NASCAR Toyota or whatever, to the car in your neighbor's driveway.
Your reasons for preferring the automatic over a manual transmission are among the reasons I prefer an automatic, I just didn't go into as much detail. In situations as pictured only a manual with extreme low gearing would stand a chance.
I haven't built in that much articulation, but I do enjoy moderate rock trails... This didn't require much travel, just traction and lockers. And the automatic makes it possible to stop part way up and then proceed without a third foot, racing engines, slipping clutches, tire spin, etc.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/Hotel%20Rock/DSCN6504.jpg)
Reading these posts with much interest. A little more info about "aftermarket coolers" for automatic transmissions?
There are probably quite a few aftermarket coolers - some with fans.
I put a transmission temp gauge on mine due to a recommendation from Gus @ Farmboy's Diesel. My factory torque converter was going out due to heavy loads - 12000 lbs gross, but it was already on it's way out before I got it. The torque converter lockup clutch can slip when in lock generating tons of heat and burning the fluid. I serviced mine before buying the new torque converter and valve body but the fluid burned in less than a month again.
A TC going out is characterized by a shuddering feeling on acceleration especially when transitioning to high gear lockup. Those who know consider the factory torque converter and valve body in any brand truck to be good for mama to go to the store to get a sack of groceries but not a lot else. It can be OK for light work use.
Temperatures are tied directly to the engine through a heat exchanger on the right rear of the engine above the oil pan. The rear inlet of the heat exchanger contains a fitting with a check ball incorporated into it to prevent draining of the fluid of the torque converter on shutdown allowing an immediate start.
Removal of this ball greatly increases flow to the standard oil cooler in the radiator also, but requires a 30 second or so warm up of the engine to get fluid into the torque converter. This is also a benefit as it prevents damage to the turbocharger of the engine by allowing it to warm up before takeoff.
The Suncoast valve body allows pumping of fluid even when in park unlike the standard factory valve body which only pumps in neutral therefore only cooling in neutral.
Heating mainly occurs when the oil in the torque converter is unlocked, therefore getting into lock is the best way to keep the transmission cool, so on mild hills, take the overdrive off to allow lockup in 3rd. On steeper grades pull it down into second or first gear as needed. These two gears will not lockup, but will provide less shearing of the oil in the TC keeping heat down and more efficiently applying power to the road rather than burning up the oil by overheating it in the TC. Temps should be kept below 250 degrees but usual on the flats is around 180f.
All this is to say that in most cases, you don't need the aftermarket cooler. I added a Magtec deep pan to mine which adds some cooling and an extra quart of oil. My truck is never under 11000 lbs - usually 12000 and my engine is around 300 HP.
I highly recommend the Trans temp gauge addition on the automatic so you can alter your driving style to prevent the damage to your trans rather than remove the heat after the damage is done.
The temp gauge sensor on a '94/02 Dodge w/ a Cummins, goes to the rear 1/2 inch OD tube before it enters the heat exchanger and right below where you remove the check ball.. That is the exit line directly from the TC and will show you the highest temperatures attained by the oil which is the information you need to know.
An aftermarket cooler would be attached and returned at the same location.
I suggested an aftermarket cooler for the A/T because the number one killer of automatics is the oil getting too hot. When that happens, well that's bad news. Most folks probably don't need an additional cooler/radiator as the manufacturer has taken this into account for average use. Hauling heavy loads, either in the truck or on a trailer, causes more heat to be generated as Glenn explained. Even the extremely slow going crawling over rocks as with my Jeep, generates lots of heat.
To get an idea of how quickly things can heat up, try this. Start with a stone cold vehicle. Locate the two steel lines from the transmission to the radiator. One is the line for the fluid going out of the transmission to the rad, the other is the fluid going back to the transmission. Set the parking brake, block the wheels, anchor it so it can not move, have another person sit in the drivers seat with the foot brakes applied fully. Be safe... get the drift? Have them start the engine and place the transmission into gear. Touch the two lines. This also must be done safely, more than likely from underneath. Remember where the rotating fan, belts and pulleys are. (Where are the lawyers who write disclaimer when you need one?) One of the two lines will immediately get warm, then warmer and warmer and then hot. More so if the engine is sped up a slightly.
So pulling heavy loads up a rough trail/road generates lots of heat from the transmission torque converter. The heavier the load the more heat. A simple add on cooler dissipates that heat better and prolongs the transmission life.
They look like these and sit in front of the radiator and the A/C coils as a rule.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/512JPM6488L._SL500_AA280_.jpg)
Because they sit in front of everything else and pour out heat their could make the A/C not work as well (under heavy transmission heat output) or even cause the engine coolant temperature to rise.
And for us old gear jammin washouts. http://www.lilbigrig.com/Home_Page.php [cool]....I smell smoke! heh
Too [cool] !!! The one in the middle ;D
(http://www.lilbigrig.com/images/albums/NewAlbum_bae1f/Pic_02.jpg)