double walls = extra height?

[akemt]

So, I'm wondering if structurally, you could go to 16' 2x6's for studs if you do a double wall (one 2x6 exterior wall, some horizontal 2x4's, then another 2x6 x16' wall)?  I'd have it all tied together well, plywood sheathing on both sides --hate drywall and OSB is bad here-- and obviously we'd have to beef up the foundation a bit. 

Just trying to find what'll give us the most space for the least ammt. of buck, and without breaking our backs either.  Going to 2 x 6 x 16's doesn't affect stud price much, really, just adds more plywood cost...

Thanks,

[John Raabe]

Your suggested wall would be more stiff - that's for sure. It is not likely to have had any structural testing information (as conventional walls do) so I don't know how it would be viewed by inspectors.

The main issue with tall walls is their UNSUPPORTED height - where there are lengths of the wall longer than 10'to12' with no tie from one side to the other. These wide tall walls can become big sail areas subject to wind and earthquake forces that are magnified by the height.

If you can have some sort of cross-bracing or tie between the two outside walls (say every 4'), you can go a long way towards handling those forces in a non-destructive way.

[akemt]

Thanks, John.

If we staggered the studs to be tied to either side of the floor joists (and resting on a set of  the 2x4 horizontals between the doubled walls) instead of at even and alternating intevals, would that do the trick (hope that made sense)?  We were looking at having a full floor at roughly 8' and then a full loft at the top just for sleeping. 

We don't have inspections here for anything but lot setbacks, zoning (is it the size you said, where you said) and septic and I can hand-draw the exterior dimensions for the permitting and get it approved while I wait.  Crazy, I know, but there's only one inspector and they save him for city limits.  They can have him!    So it is more of whether it is safe and will handle snow and wind than whether it'll meet code.  Thank heavens, I HATE drywall!

[John Raabe]

Yes, if you are tying the walls together with floor joists then the floor diaphragm stabilizes the whole wall. Nailing into the studs also helps.

However, if you are doing a full length loft or upper floor why go to the tall studs in the first place? You can just platform frame each floor with standard studs.

[akemt]

Thanks again, John. 

The biggest issue is that we need to be dried in ASAP.  But also, here atleast, the cost is lower for a 2 x 6 x 16' than two 2 x 6 x 8's.  Maybe that's backwards, but everything is a bit backwards here?  We're lucky if we can get 2 days in a row without rain, and usually it is heavy and blowing sideways so the sooner we can get a roof and walls up with tarpaper, the better.  Then we can work on the interior loft floors and the siding/roofing as weather permits.  We want the walls doubled 2 x 6 for insulation purposes, regardless of structural need. 

Is there another advantage to framing the different floors separately that I should consider?

If we were doing a 16 x 24 with the above, what plan set woud you suggest we buy?  We'd either have to do sonotubes or a post & perimeter foundation, preferably sonotubes!  We have owner-built before, but not with your foundation style nor with balloon framing or without trusses and wouldn't mind a guide. 

[John Raabe]

OK, I see where you're headed. I think you could just tilt up those tall walls and get the roof on first. Then come back in with the floor and interior wall. A bit unconventional but you can likely get it working. Windows might work best if they were stacked with bearing lines all the way down.

The Victoria Cottage plan has an alternative cross section and foundation for a simple 16x28. I would just push the piers a bit closer together for your length.

[akemt]

We're now thinking that we'd do better building a bit bigger and not having to build on later, something around the 20 X 32 - 40' size, making it roughly an 18 x __ interior.  We've built before, but would love to get appropriate foundation plans (the deep sonotubes), roofing plans (we did trusses but would like to avoid that)...

Would you still suggest the victoria's or would something along the lines of the universal be more appropriate?


***Hoping to buy land this winter***