Progress finally

[Daddymem]

Oh yeah, I am waaay used to waiting on permits.  The Nitrogen Aggregation permit first has to go to the town for approval and signature on the state application.  Then I submit to the state which has a 30 day Administrative review and a 60 day technical review.  Fortunately, I have done a Nitrogen Aggregation with this bureau and my boss knows everyone there so maybe he can pull the right strings...  The town has indicated that the variance can be extended 6 months to a year, but they think my variance should have a 2 year expiration, not one anyways so we may be in luck!  

Now we just hope we can convince my cousin (the contractor) of our alternative ideas on construction....

I'll get the modified floor plans up some time.

[Laura21]

I am keeping my fingers crossed for you and hope you can pull some strings in the planning department.    

Hopefully, you can convince your contractor to go with your unconventional ways. Don't forget, construction always take longer than planned.  

Laura

[Bart_Cubbins]

I'm starting to understand why home prices are so high in your area. Building there seems to involve an excessive amount of time and risk.

Bart

[Daddymem]

Right front overall:


Right front first floor:


Right front second floor:

[glenn-k]

Small Daddymem, but they say size doesn't really matter that much - it's the quality that counts.

[Laura21]

Good one Glen  

Great looking place Daddymen. Can't wait to see your progress photos.

Building costs are expensive her for a number of reasons including the high price of materials due to the fact that we import everything. Also, construction wages are competitive and ther is a constant demand since you can build all year round here. All these things put togtether and the fact that we are in a hurricane zone makes for expensive construction.

Laura

[glenn-k]

Thanks, Laura.  Gotta keep daddymem informed.

[Daddymem]

Since I can't stop imagining things...a free thought ponderance session:

If we are going for cathedral ceilings in the bedrooms, would it make sense to look at this house as 1.5 stories instead?

I'm thinking a 4 foot kneewall. Too high?  

If we use a 12 to 12 pitch on the roof, with only 20 feet of total width, would the large front bedroom split into two bedrooms in the future work?  Would an even steeper pitch make sense?  We are not opposed to the Gothic rooflines, but not sure it would fit in this house...but we could do it almost like Chapin's house in Leverett depicted Sarah Susanka's book....  

One big issue I see would be solar tempering that would be lost due to the knee wall. Would it look odd to have short sliding or hopper windows in that kneewall?  Would they server purpose beyond ventilation?  Or would skylights be a better option?

I guess I'll have to model it in Chief, but any thoughts, opinions of others here?  A model on the screen just isn't the same as the real thing.  I know John has the 1.5 sotry plans, but it just doesn't look big enough to split the front into two bedrooms with that low (2'?) kneewall.  

This came about because we went to a craft fair this morning in one of the oldest parts of town.  The entire neighborhood is a summer "campground" where the houses are the small cottages.  There were many narrow 1.5 story houses there.  That victorian gingerbread look was everywhere so it got me thinking.....    

On the easement front, we go before the town again this wednesday to ask for a one year extension on our variance.  Our neighbor is gone for a month, so I basically will have a month to design and prepare an application package when we get our extension.  Gonna be a busy month  

[Bart_Cubbins]

The First Day Cottages http://www.firstdaycottage.com use ~4' kneewalls with windows near floor level.



Lots more pics on their site. To me, the window placement looks interesting... it's the lack of overhangs that looks odd.

A big skylight on each side as close to the outside wall as possible will also add an extra foot or so of headroom underneath. And of course, you could add dormers flush with the outside walls.

Today I'm off to sign my mortgage documents. In a month I'll be closing on the land and then I get to go through the sewage permit/board of variance/building permit/etc. wringer.

Bart

[Amanda_931]

Have fun with mortgages, variances and the like.

I'd thought that windows in the corners had to be carefully engineered.  Which of course they can be.  The Frank Lloyd Wright house in Florence has at least one all glass corner.

Azby Brown's book on Japanese Houses (Small Spaces) notes that windows all over the place are pretty common there.  Depending on what you want to see, how you want the light to come in, and where a window will fit.  And half-height doors, especially into things like tea ceremony structures.

The houses that did the best in Hurricane Andrew had no overhangs, were in fact, from all reports nasty asbestos sided tiny-windowed no overhang no porch jobs.

A house we lived in on Guam was later destroyed by a typhoon because the dining room was a  screen porch, with the great big heavy concrete roof cantilevered out over it, if IIRC.  It was one of about eight identical houses stepped down a hill there.  Early pictures made them look ghastly.  But by the time they were 10 years old, landscaping, and the fact that the people living there were a remarkably cosmopolitan group made the insides look totally different, even though they weren't.

[Daddymem]

There we go..I updated the isometrics (page 2).  I also have the floor plans (thanks Cedarglen for the master bath idea).

First floor


Second floor


Cross your fingers for me...tonight we see if we get an extension on our variance.

[Laura21]

Great looking plan there Daddymen. A couple of questions - is the space between the kitchne and dining area a step? This might be akward maneuvering there if you are coming up the stairs and the door cannot swing all the way back to the wall.  Otherwise great. The master bath with just a shower I can agree with. I only use the shower in my bath and so decided not to buy the separate tub so now I have a large space to put something efficient for there.  

Great plans again  

Laura

[Daddymem]

Those dotted lines are invisible walls created so Chief demarks the rooms properly.  There is only one single elevation for each floor.  Thanks, not too much tweaked beyond John's floorplan.  We may explore a small recycled clawfoot tub if it can fit.  I'll provide a narrative when I get a chance.

[JRR]

I like that plan very much Daddymem.  

I would choose to eliminate the two small porches and the two associated doors ... making all foot traffic cross the larger (screened) porches.  This would make for a second barrier for houseflies and mosquitoes ... a concern in my neck of the woods for many months a year.

Remember that second floor walls must be supported on the first floor by other walls, or posts, or extra (or reinforced) joists.

[Jimmy_Cason]

Remember that second floor walls must be supported on the first floor by other walls, or posts, or extra (or reinforced) joists.

Would 2x12s at 16 inch centers be enough to span the 20 feet for the second floor and support the walls?

[Daddymem]

We plan on a center beam support as suggested in John's plans, I think that takes care of it, no?

[JRR]

I would expect so ... it certainly seems ample.  Just something to be aware of if you are loading the first floor by more, or greatly relocated, second floor walls.

[Daddymem]

Well....variance extension requested...extension granted!

Now for a quick once over on the plan...it will help me catch anything before I get it to the contractor and solidify things in my mind.  Besides, probably can pick up an idea or two from people here

This house will sit at an angle to the road.  The side with the large "Deck" will get the solar exposure.  The "porch" on the bottom of the image will serve as a front door.  This is wide enough to decorate for the seasons (we love our seasons here in New England).  We plan on keeping a large swath of the pine and oaks between the front door and the road.  Our road is a dead end dirt road so no "curb appeal" needed.  We will bring in a short driveway to a carport off to the left of the image (gravel please). The house will sit up 3-4 feet above finished grade.   We expect to use the door at the "porch" on the left side of the image.  It is covered so we can fumble with our keys in the rain or snow. Through that door will be an unloading area in the form of a  mud room.  Next to the closet will be a bench with cubbies below, coat hooks above.  That closet may shrink to maximise the bench area.  Note that the stair landing are will be open through to the living room (balusters only) to keep an open, airy feel.  Small downstairs 1/2 bath.  

Large fridge for a growing family.  Pantry with shelves and a curtain, no door.  Door going out to a screen porch.  We envision a table out there for 3 season dining room and still plenty of room for a couple rockers to enjoy the night air.  Note that front door and kitchen door open will create a cross breeze through house.  Counter to the left of the stove will be butcher block.  Remaining counters will be a decent laminate.  To the right of the stove are open shelves in lieu of cabinets.  Cabinets over the dishwasher, shelves to frame it all off on the right of these.  Counter between the dining room is higher than kitchen counter; may serve as a dining bar.  Hopefully this setup will work for us, we cook a lot.  

Dining room table for growing family and the 'rents for the holidays.  

Corner of living room may have a pellet stove, but we may move that into a family room downstairs instead.  Small closet by front door, our main closet is back at our mudroom.  

Sliders with french door look open onto either a deck or patio.  If we can, this will be a sunroom in the future.  In the open stair well there is a whole house fan up through the cathedralled ceiling.

We will have a high walled cellar to finish off in the future.  Not much but mechanicals for now.  Maybe a workbench and office area thrown together.

On up the stairs for the "resident" area of the house.  We are thinking cathedral ceilings over the bedrooms, attic storage everywhere else (is it easy to mix cathedral and not?)  Ahead is the main bathroom, to be used mostly by the ankle biters, maybe a romantic bath if the 'rents babysit for us  To the left is the master bedroom.  Not grand, but comfortable and good travel paths.  Walk in closet through a curtain.  Makeup table/ligerie storage beneath the window for the Mrs.  Small bathroom with shower stall (small clawfoot available?)  

Through a dutch door is one gigantamongous bedroom for the kids.  In the future, a wall can be built at the center of this room to make two bedrooms, but for now one big romper room.  We would like to explore lofting the beds over the closet as step 2 before a wall goes up.

General items:
Hard flooring, throw rugs only, no wall to wall.
Reclaimed anything is acceptable for everything but electricals like stove etc. (better efficiency with the new stuff).  We want people to walk in this house and think "how old is this place?" and not "nice new house."
Geothermal heatpump at the top of the list, propane fueled whatever as a second choice.  We really would like forced hot air to take advantage of the ventilation/filtration you can't get with forced hot water.  This is something we need to work out still.  It gets hot enough, frequent enough to require air conditioning so it would be nice to get central air through the same vents and humidifier for the dry winters as well.

Of course...all of this can change at any moment...kinda used to rolling with the punches by now
If you hung on this long, thanks!  If you have comments/suggestions, thanks!      

[Amanda_931]

Internet acquaintance runs an air-to-air heat exchanger with filter on the incoming air, with the air circling through his closets.  Which sounds like a wonderful idea.  I can pass on scanned things (huge files) of plans from an old Popular Mechanics for a home-built air-to air job.  I'm pretty sure he dehumidifies somewhere in there as well.

He's got some variant on PAHS/AGS possibly as well or maybe runs that in line with this.  

The best site for a HOUSE for me may be too flat to use AGS/PAHS, and some parts of the year there's a small pond up there as well. (all the other possiblities involve removing acres of trees).

Five outside doors (to remember to lock when you leave?)?  They all look pretty useful for both daylighting and ventilation.  Although if, put that way they sound a little much, you could separate the functions, have ventilation down low with just thermal glass for a non-opening window above it on the North side.  but that may get rid of only one.  Or is that just a big slider window.  In either case, low air intake may be a good idea right there.

Solid floors, rugs for bare feet to snuggle in, good, good.

For sure, refrigerator, and washer (and dryer) can be highly energy efficient.  Maybe not much improvement with a stove.  With electricity or gas, if you can avoid having that always on 60-watt substitute for a pilot light--or the pilot light.  The real foodies love a gas cook-top--with at least one extra-big burner--and electric oven(s) that heat up a bit more evenly.

[Daddymem]

Three doors and a slider.  Seems a lot, but each does serve a purpose and maybe I'm a bit claustraphobic living in this shoebox with only one useable door in the whole house.  :-/

[JRR]

You've done your planning!  Very good.

Because you expect to do a lot of cooking, consider getting an extra wide stove/range.  Our '50s house came with a 40" wide stove that we recently replaced.  Not the easiest thing to find, but occasionally Sears will have them on their salesroom floor.  We bought a Kenmore stainless steel dual fuel model.  5 gas burner range top.   A large convection elect oven is beside a smaller conventional warmer electric oven.  It made the wife a very happy cooker.

Do you need a/some window(s) looking out on that porch from the stove area?  But that would loose cabinet space.  Perhaps a lot of glass in that door would give you a view.  Since it's a covered door under the porch roof, you may want that one to swing outward, avoiding some swathe interference in the kitchen area.

I know you would loose storage, and it would be a bit more costly to insulate properly .... but that whole second floor would be awesome if it were all "cathedral"!

I think I would make the front door swing the other way to avoid blinding the coat closet.

Since the large bedroom may later get reworked, I would not go to the expense of finished closets ... shelves with curtain surrounds should meet the need and save some money.   ....For the extra width stove.

[Daddymem]

See now, that is the stuff I am talking about...what does John say..."none of us is as smart as all of us"  I'm considering SIPS for the roof, if that makes any sense...

[JRR]

I tried to find some reference material online about the dual fuel Kenmore ... but it looks like Sears is now only selling the 40" in "all electric".

But here is the "dual fuel" on the Frigidaire site:

http://homerepair.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ&sdn=homerepair&zu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.frigidaire.com%2Fproducts%2Fcooking%2Franges%2Ffree-standing%2Fgas%2Fprod_PLCF489CC.asp

You may want to consider a 48" or 60" ... they're available!

[Amanda_931]

I think I'd accept used for the stove--not refrigerator or washing machine, or, presumably dishwasher.  Clothes dryer--as far as I can tell cannot be made really energy efficient, so that might be bought used as well.

Oven and cooktop could be separate, especially if you want the dual fuel.  Even if you do end up putting the oven below the burners.

If you go for the big honking gas cooktop, don't go for what is called "restaurant" type, "commercial"is OK.  (burner size and fire prevention is the difference.)

[Daddymem]

Now, how crazy is it to attempt to build the 2 story on my own as my first carpentry experience?  I have a professional carpenter friend to help some, but he works a lot of hours and won't be around much.  My thoughts are I tackle what I can with my father and wife and hire help here and there for the tough parts.  

Some people I talk to tell me I am nuts (ok so they normally do anyways ), others say sure, it is a simple structure with only the second story and the tall steep roof as the "difficult" parts.  I think my work will let me go to 4 day work weeks with alternating 4 day weekends and 2 day weekends so that will help.

I plan on getting the Wagner framing book, have the Habitat for Humanities book already, and want to find the Working Alone book.  Any others I should be looking for?