Cabin Ideas Please. What would you build?

Started by lonelytree, January 01, 2008, 06:37:52 PM

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kev_alaska

Ltree, that is basically what we did. Dried in the little cabin quickly, outhouse next with the shed just before the river got too low to navigate. Now we have a warm dry place to snowmobile, a shed for all my goodies and can concentrate this summer on the clearing and foundation for the big cabin. If we get further along than we anticipate, we will barge in materials to get going on the walls and roofing. I also have the 1-1/2 story plans and have quotes in place. I am going to make my changes and requote things soon.
Stealing ideas from John, PEG and Glenn for a several years now.......

Willy

Quote from: kev_alaska on January 23, 2008, 07:37:35 PM
Ltree, that is basically what we did. Dried in the little cabin quickly, outhouse next with the shed just before the river got too low to navigate. Now we have a warm dry place to snowmobile, a shed for all my goodies and can concentrate this summer on the clearing and foundation for the big cabin. If we get further along than we anticipate, we will barge in materials to get going on the walls and roofing. I also have the 1-1/2 story plans and have quotes in place. I am going to make my changes and requote things soon.
That is sorta what I am doing on my cabin I will build as soon as the snow is gone. I paid cash for the land and will use a Zero Instrust Credit Card to build the shell fast. Then pay off the card before I lose the no instrust on it when fire season starts. I need to build the cabin fast so I can be ready to fight fires a few months later. I have lots of spare time in the spring/fall/winter but none in the summer months due to fires and needing to go to them any time I get called out. I bought all the plywood while it was cheap this winter and storing for spring use. Mark


lonelytree

#52
Thanks for all the input!

I need to get out and measure this cabin that is currently standing on the property. It has just been too cold. Does anyone have a "best guess" as to the size of it? I would believe 12 X 12 or just a shade bigger? ???


I would love to reclaim it and use it. I can use my craigslist windows, scrounged materials and rebuild it for about $2-3000. Then I would have a warm dry place to stay while building the big cabin. Since it is grandfathered into the property I can "possibly" keep it where it stands. All new construction has to be 75 feet from the high water mark. Google Earth says that is is about 24' from the shoreline.

If I can rebuild it as a 12 X 12 and put a couple kickouts on it (and possibly loft), I should be able to have a nice little mackinaw camp. I believe that the cabin would have to have the same ground measurements as the original.

MountainDon

I'd say that if you want to retain its present location you should check with the county/bldg dept/whoever is in charge of those regs... to see how extensive the renovations can be. They probably have a rule about that.  ???
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

lonelytree

#54
The good.
The land purchase is in progress. A quit claim deed and escrow. I hope to close in the next week.

The better
I found 2X5X12' T&G flooring marked down from $15.75 to $3.00 at Lowes. I got all the 12 footers that they had (157). A buddy got all the 16'ers so I have a bit of backup if needed. There is about a 15% cull though.

The best.
I got with the Code Compliance people for where I am planning to build. There was a question about high water level. A little history: The area that I am building is a chain of 3 lakes. I am building on the first one. The channel to the second lake is shallow. In the 70's someone tried to deepen the channel with explosives. It didn't work. The high water level dropped the lake by a foot and a half. Because the water in front was very shallow, it is now exposed. I was extremely worried that I was going to have to go by the old high water mark. A couple pics to assist with my poor writing skills:


Notice where the girl is standing and that the cabin is well over the 75' setback ( I will leave a substantial safety zone).  :) [cool] That means that I can do whatever I want (as long as it is 75') from the new high water mark. When I was walking the property last fall, I noticed that the best building location appeared to be where the current cabin is standing. Highest, dryest and best view.

The bad.....
I found out how much weight I am looking at moving.


lonelytree

#55
Land is bought. Warranty deed in my hands!

I have been scrounging off of Craigslist and have a couple nice windows and the JCI's for the floor.

I bought a coot to help carry materials from the beach to the building site and act as a small pickup truck at the property. I had to rebuild the torque dividers and repair a few things.


Planning to carry materials in next week.

In 6 weeks, building will commence if the lake is open. May is unsafe for boats, snowmachines or wheelers. Airboats only.

lonelytree

Help please....

I bought JCI's for the floor and when I went to pick them up they are 9-1/2" 210 series instead of 11-7/8 210 series.

For a 20' X 24' can I make these work?

9-1/2 - 3-1/2 - 214" - 3-1/2 - 9-1/2
Cant  - Beam  - Span - Beam  - Cantilever

L/450 Live Load Deflection, on 12" it says 17' 3" span @ 40PSF Live Load / 10PSF
Dead Load......

L/360 Live Load Deflection on 12"19'1" @ 40PSF Live Load / 10PSF

I have beams and cement already out there that would
be well under spec for the 11-7/8 JCI's....... I don't
want to haul (OR MIX) any more cement. I don't want
springy floors either.....

Thanks,
Mike

lonelytree

I guess there is not a way to make them work. At least the guy will give me my deposit back.

lonelytree

Simpson CB66 brackets.

In this thread:

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3403.msg36910#msg36910

It is mentioned that the CB66 brackets might work for a small cabin.

What are your ideas for a 20 X 24 utilizing 5 down each side and one in the middle front and rear? The pads are going to be 30"X30".

Beam - Will a 4X12 pressure treated beam work with the posts at 70.5"?

Thanks,
Mike


glenn kangiser

I see you bought the 20x30 1.5 plan.  I would just use the foundation for it and shorten it to 24', using the piers and beams as designed for it.  Anything that is not per plan would require redesign - possible check out by an architect or engineer.

CB 66 are for a 6"x6" post.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

MountainDon

What beam size do the 20 x 30 1.5 plans call for?

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

Sorry, Don.  I was being lazy and didn't go get the plans out.

5.125 x 9" glu-lam or three 2x12's built up #2DF and two 1/2 cdx plywood strips totalling 5 1/2 inches wide. Glue and nail as a single unit - offset joints min 4'
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

MountainDon

Sounds like those can have the support posts placed 8 feet on center.

???
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

They are shown at 7'6" centers. 10' on ends
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


lonelytree

BCI's.

I have been looking at the plans and do not see whether I can cantilever the BCIs. Is it possible or do I have to implement a full beam around the outside edge? If possible, any pics?

I have 25 11-7/8 BCIs and full rim joist in the garage. 20X24 with the BCIs on 12" centers.

Thanks,
Mike

glenn kangiser

I haven't used them as I do mostly steel work, although see other trades using them on projects I am on sometimes.

This may be of interest to you.

QuoteBCI blocking panels or x-bracing are required at cantilever supports.

Below are non-load bearing cantilever details so I assume there are critical load bearing details also.

http://www.wsitruss.com/ewp25.asp

http://www.wsitruss.com/ewp07.asp

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

glenn kangiser

Got more.

QuoteREINFORCEMENT REQUIREMENTS

    * BCI joists may be cantilevered up to a maximum of 2'-0" when supporting roof loads, but may need reinforcement. The tables and details on this page indicate the type of reinforcement required, if any.



http://www.aecinfo.com/1/resourcefile/00/22/89/bcwspe23.htm

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

lonelytree

#67
Thanks for all the inputs thus far. I do appreciate your time.

The lake finally went out on June 5th. We made our first trip in VIA boat for the summer. First thing was to haul in abut 2500 pounds of materials and a wheeler to haul them from the beach to the building site.


While the crew was freighting materials in, I was pulling trees and measuring up the area. I had to make absolutely sure that I had a 75 foot setback from high water mark.

Here is the beginning of tree removal.


This is the view that I will have from my front porch.



We only fished for 2 hours but got 2 nice lakers.

Unfortunately the rest of the pics are on another camera........


glenn kangiser

Looks like it will be interesting and good fishing too.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

lonelytree

If anyone has any ideas on how to do a foundation on TOP of the ground, I could use the help. I talked with a couple guys that have been out there for many years and they are totally against removing the ground cover. They say to put down a wood pad and crib up. How do I get a solid base when cribbing? I need to get the front up about 4 feet above the current ground cover due to a rise at the back corner of the site. Will a concrete block pier work?


glenn kangiser

I think I'd use rail road ties - set on gravel for drainage if you can.  PT posts up from there with as big a 45 degree angle braces as you can.  Use Rebar to make giant spikes - drill a 1/2 inch hole for 1/2 inch rebar.  I use a 16" ship auger in a heavy duty 1/2 inch drill.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

glenn kangiser

Sounds like they are talking about working with soft ground (when thawed) and you want all the base you can get.

This is just my thoughts of what it sounds like they are getting at -- no guarantees.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

kev_alaska

Glen's idea is how we did ours in the valley. No railroad ties on the little one, but gravel underneath paver blocks with precast piers on top. The Friesen adjustable brackets and you should be good to go. 4' off the ground gives you plenty of space for insulating as well.

For our big cabin, we have been clearing trees as well. Unless I figure out a way to get a small dozer in, the stumps will be my limiting factor. I may also get to place the cabin foundation 2'-4' feet above the stump carnage.
Stealing ideas from John, PEG and Glenn for a several years now.......

John Raabe

Kev and Glenn have good suggestions. You're basically floating your foundation on what would be considered non-structural fill anywhere else in the world. But, you work with what you have. ;)

The more you can spread out the point loads (with timbers or a gravel base) the more solid the support you will get from the questionable soil.

I would also spend some time thinking about how to easily re-level your building. This might mean making brackets that could be unbolted or otherwise adjusted as differential settlement and frost heave work on your foundation.
None of us are as smart as all of us.

maggiethecat

I'm posting on this thread because of the title.

I found out that the HOA where I intend to build in Hawaii has a rule that a house has to be at least 880 square feet. I keep waffling between the grandfather's cottage and the big enchilada plans. DH has same dilemma.   The reason is, we don't know which will be the easiest to add a bedroom or two afterwards.

The GC looks great but seems a bit too definitive in terms of layout. The other plans seem good but I like the look of the GC better.

By the way, I'm still in CA, should I buy the plans while still here? Will shipping cost a lot more to Hawaii?

--maaggie
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